IV 3»«^ 



« r% 



v ^ 







Class 
Book. 



.E 2_ 



Copyright N"_ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. 



The Pilgrimage 



OF 



The San Francisco Club 



UNDER THE AUSPICES OF 



Pilgrim Commandery 



No. 11, K. T. 



THE SHRINE OF THE TRIENNIAL CONCLAVE 



OF 



Knights Templar of the United States. 



,j^\'^ z 



* * * * 



HARRISBURG. PA.: 

Press of The Star-Independent 

1906 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

APh 27 1906 

Copynght Lntry 

CLASS (4t XXc. No 

COPY B.' 






TO 

The JMembebs of the Committee of Arranoemekts — Snt Knights 
Owen M. COpei-in, Chairman; Arthur D. Bacon, Secretary; 
William M, Donaldson, Treasurer and Lewis E. Beitler, General- 
issimo of Pilgrim Commandery. Representatives of Pilgrim Com- 
mandery. No. 11, of Harrisburg, Pa. 

In behalf of the Sir Knights and their Ladies of San Francisco Club. 

In Happy Remembrance of Courtesies Received under the Auspices of 
Daily Association. 

This Book is Dedicated 

BY the 

AUTHOR. 



Copyright by Alexander H. Ege, 1905. 



All rights reserved. 



PILGRIM COMMA NDERY, No. 11, K. T. 

OF Habrisbueg, Pa. 

SAN FRANCISCO CLUB OF 190 4. 

Chairman, Secretary, 

OWEN M. COPELIN. ARTHUR D. BACON. 

Treasurer, 
WILLIAM M. DONALDSON. 



TOUR 



The Canadian Rockies 

AND 

Pacific Coast, 

August 18 to September 18, 

1904. 

Under the Personally-Conducted Tourist System 
Pennsylvania Railroad. 

J. R. Wood, Geo. W. Boyd, 

Passenger Traffic Manager. General Passenger Agent. 



(iii) 



iv Itinerary. 



ITINERARY 



THURSDAY, AUGUST 18. 
HwrVbuJ^ ^** Pennsylvania Railroad. 

Lv. Harrisburg, Pa., 13 :55 P. M. 

61 Lv. Lewistown Junction/ Pa., 2 :17 

117 Lv. Tyrone, Pa., 3 :33 

131 Ar. Altoona, Pa., 3 :55 

Lv. Altoona, Pa., 4 :05 

249 Ar. Pittsburg, Pa., (Eastern time,) 7 :05 

Via Pennsylvania Lines. 

Lv. Pittsburg, Pa., (Central time,) 6 :30 " 

FEIDAY, AUGUST 19. 

717 Ar. Chicago, III., 7 :35 A. M. 

Spend day in Chicago. 
Via Chicago and Northwestern Railway. 

Lv. Chicago, III., 3 :10 P. M. 

802 Ar. Milwaukee, Wis., 5 :10 " 

Five hours in Milwaukee. 

Lv. Milwaukee, Wis., 10 :00 " 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 20. 
1,127 Ar. St. Paul, Minn., 9 :00 A.M. 

Spend day in St. Paul. 
Via Minneapolis, St. Paul and Saint Ste. Marie Railway. 

Lv. St. Paul, Minn., 6 :00 P. M. 

SUNDAY, AUGUST 21. 

1,687 Ar. Portal, N. D., (Central time,) 1 :00 P. M. 

Via Canadian Pacific Railway. 
Lv. Portal, N. D., (Mountain time,) 12 :15 " 



Itinerary. 



Muesfrom MONDAY, AUGUST 23. 

2,378 Ar. Banff Hot Springs, 1 :00 P.M. 



TUESDAY, AUGUST 23. 
At Banff Hot Springs. Visit Springs and baths. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 24. 

Lv. Banff Hot Springs, 7 :00 A. M. 

2,413 Ar. Laggan, (Mountain time,) 8 :15 " 

Lake Louise, two and one-half miles from station. 

Lv. Laggan, (Pacific time,) 12 :15 P. M. 

2,515 Ar. Glacier, B. C, 6:15 " 

Side track over night. 

THUESDAY, AUGUST 25. 

Lv. Glacier, B. C, 7 :00 A. M. 

2,734 Ar. Ashcroft, B. C, 7 :00 P. M. 

Side track over night. 

FRIDAY, AUGUST 26. 

Lv. Ashcroft, B. C, 8 :00 A. M. 

2,905 Ar. Sumas, B. C, 3 :30 P. M. 

Via Northern Pacific Railway. 

Lv. Sumas, B. C, 3 :45 " 

3,031 Ar. Seattle, Wash., 9 :10 " 

Side track over night. 

SATURDAY, AUGUST 27. 

Spend forenoon in Seattle; use trolley cars 
to see the city. 

Lv. Seattle, Wash., 12 :00 Noon. 

3,072 Ar. Tacoma, Wash., 1 :30 P. M. 

Afternoon in Tacoma. 

Lv. Tacoma, Wash., 11 :30 P. M. 



vi Itinerary. 

HarViS SUNDAY, AUGUST 28. 

3,216 Ar. Portland, Ore., 6 :00 A. M. 

The day in Portland can be most profitably spent in 
taking a steamboat trip up the Columbia River 
to Cascade Lock. The steamer fare, includ- 
ing luncheon, will not exceed $1.50. 
Via Southern Pacific Company. 

Lv. Portland, Ore., 8 :30 P. M. 

MONDAY, AUGUST 29. 
3,650 Lv. SissoN (Mt. Shasta), Cal., 6 :25 P. M. 

TUESDAY, AUGUST 30. 

3,984 Ar. Oakland, Cal., 8 :10 A. M. 

Lv. Oakland, Cal., 8 :30 " 

4,028 Lv. San Jose, Cal., 10:30 " 

4,103 Ar. Monterey, Cal., 1 :00 P. M. 

Seventeen-mile drive in the afternoon. The cost of 

this drive is $1.25 per capita, and is one of the most 

attractive features of the Pacific Coast tours. 

Retire on train. 

WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 31. 

Lv. Monterey, Cal., 12 :01 A. M. 

4,380 Ar. Santa Barbara, Cal., 9 :00 " 

Carriage drive; cost, $1.00. 

Spend entire day at Santa Barbara. 

Retire on train. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1. 

Lv. Santa Barbara, Cal., 12 :01 A. M. 

4,490 Ar. Los Angeles, Cal., 4.00 " 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 1. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 2. 



Itinerary. , Tii 

Mues from SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 3. 

Harris bnrg ^ 

Three days in Los Angeles. 

Visit Pasadena (25 cents), Riverside, Redlands and Santa 

Catalina Island ($2.50). Ascent of Mt. Lowe from 

Pasadena Incline Railway ($2.50). 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 3. 
Lv. Los Angeles, Cal,, 5 :00 P. M. 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 4. 
4,922 Ar. San Jose, Cal., 7 :00 A. M. 

This day can be delightfully spent in a stage trip to 

the summit of Mt. Hamilton. Cost of stage 

trip, $3.00; luncheon en route, 50 cents. 

Retire on train. 

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 5. 

Lv. San Jose. Cal 8 :00 A. M. 

4,938 Ar. Palo Alto, Cal., 8 :30 " 

Visit Stanford University and the famous stock farm. 
Carriages necessary; cost, $1.00 per capita. 

Lv. Palo Alto, Cal., 12 :00 Noon. 

4,972 Ar. San Francisco. Cal., (Third St.), . . 1 :00 P. M. 

NOTICE TO PASSENGER. 
Your ticket must be validated hy and a fee of 50 
cents paid to the Joint Agent at 17 Neio Mont- 
gomery Street, San Francisco, before it will 
be accepted for passage leaving San 
; Francisco, Thursday, September 8. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 6. 

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 7. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8. 

In San Francisco for Conclave. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 8. 
Lv. San Francisco, Cal. (Market St. 

Ferry), 12 :00 Night. 



viii Itinerary. 

siS"^n'?SK> FKIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9. 

90 Lv. Sacramento, Cal., 4 :00 A. M. 

Cross the Sierras during the forenoon. 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 10. 

826 Ar. Ogden, Utah (Pacific time,) 6 :00 A. M. 

Via Denver and Rio Grande Railroad. 

Lv. Ogden, Utah, (Mountain time,) 7 :40 A. M. 

863 Ar. Salt Lake City, Utah, 8 :40 " 

Visit Saltair, on Great Salt Lake; fare, $1.00. 

Also, Mormon Temple and Tabernacle. 

Drive not necessary. 

Lv. Salt Lake City, Utah, 5 :00 P. M. 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 11. 
1,245 Ar. Glenwood Springs, Col 6 :15 A. M. 

Visit Springs and baths, near station. 
Lv. Glenwood Springs, Col., 10 :00 A. M. 

Pass through Royal Grorge, 5:40 P. M. 

1,530 Ar. Colorado Springs, Col., 8 :25 P. M, 

Side track for occupancy. 

MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12. 

At Colorado Springs. 

Drive to Manitou and Garden of the Gods, $1.00. 

Drive to and through Cheyenne Canyon. 

Scenic Railroad side trip to Cripple Creek 

and return, $2.75. Ascent of Pike's 

Peak (incline runs only during 

summer) , $5.00. 

TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13. 

Lv. Colorado Springs, Col., 5 :00 A. M. 

1,605 Ar. Denver, Col 7 :30 " 

Spend day in Denver. 
"Seeing Denver" special trolley cars, 50 cents. 

GeorgetowTi Loop trip, $2.75. 
Via Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railway. 

Lv. Denver, Col., 10 :00 P. M. 



Itinerary. ix 

Mtiesfrom WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 14. 

San l! ranclsco 

2,240 Ar. Kansas City, 7 :30 P. M. 

Via Missouri Pacific Railway. 
Lv. Kansas City, Mo 9 :00 P. M. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15. 
2,523 Ar. St. Louis, Mo 6 :30 A. M. 

NOTICE TO PASSENGER. 

Your ticket must be deposited vAth the Joint Agent 

at St. Louis, and a fee of $1.00 paid, before 

it vnll be accepted for passage leaving St. 

Louis, Friday, September 16. 

THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 15. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16. 

In St. Louis. 

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 16. 

Via Vandalia Line. 

Lv. St. Louis. Mo., 11 :35 P. M. 

SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 17. 
2,765 Ar. Indianapolis, Ind., 6 :50 A. M. 

Via Pennsylvania Lines. 

Lv. Indianapolis, Ind 8 :10 A. M. 

3,146 Ar. Pittsburg, Pa., (Central time,) 5 :40 P. M. 

Via Pennsylvania Railway. 

Lv. Pittsburg. Pa., (Eastern time,) 7 :10 P. M. 

3,263 Ar. Altgona, Pa., 10 :30 " 

Lv. Altoona, Pa., 10 :37 " 

3,277 Ar. Tyrone, Pa., 11 :00 " 

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 18. 

3,334 Ar. Lewistown Junction, Pa., 12 :25 A. M. 

3,394 Ar. Harrisburg, Pa., 2 :00 " 

Remain in Sleeping Cars until 7:00 A. M. 



MILMBERS or CLUB 



Mr. Arthur D. Bacon, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Lewis E. Beitler, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Mrs. Lewis E. Beitler, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Mr. Ralph B. Brimmer, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. J. Nevin Baker, Lykens, Pa. 

Dr. S. G. A. Brown, Shippensburg, Pa. 

Mrs. S. G. A. Brown, Shippensburg, Pa. 

Mr. Owen M. Copelin, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. Owen M. Copelin, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. Wm. W. Cunningham, Lewistown, Pa. 

Mr. Wm. M. Donaldson, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. Wm. M. Donaldson, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Edgar B. Diehl, Lehmasters, Pa. 

Mrs. Edgar B. Diehl, Lehmasters, Pa. 

Mr. George F. Dunkle, Philipsburg, Pa. 

Mr. Wm. H. Denlinger, Patton, Pa. 

Miss Fannie Eby, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. A. H. Ege, Mechanicsburg, Pa. 

Mrs. A. H. Ege, Mechanicsburg, Pa. 

Mr. Clayton C. Forney, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. Clayton C. Forney, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Maurice E. Finney, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Wesley Fisher, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. George Faerster, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. George Faerster, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Theodore P. Frantz, Lebanon, Pa. 

Miss Gertrude Frantz, Lebanon, Pa. 

Mr. James E. Fryberger, Philipsburg, Pa. 

Mrs. James E. Fryberger, Philipsburg, Pa. 

Mr. J. Rowe Fletcher, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. W. A. Gould, Brisben, Pa. 

Mrs. W. A. Gould, Brisben, Pa. 

Dr. John P. Getter Belleville, Pa. 

Mrs. John P. Getter, Belleville, Pa. 

Mr. Robert S. Gutelius, Mifflinburg, Pa. 

Mrs. Robert S. Gutelius, Mifflinburg, Pa. 

Mr. George A. Gorgas, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. George A. Gorgas, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Dr. A. S. Harshberger, Lewl.stown, Pa. 

Mr. Charles V. Henry, Lebanon, Pa. 

Mrs. Charles V. Henry, Lebanon, Pa. 



Members. xi 

Dr. James R. Humes, Hollidaysburg, Pa. 

Mrs. James R. Humes, Hollidaysburg, Pa. 

Mr. Wra. C. Helmbold, Clearfield, Pa. 

Mrs. Wm. C. Helmbold, Clearfield, Pa. 

Miss Louise Helmbold, Clearfield, Pa. 

Mr. William T. Holt, Philipsburg, Pa. 

Mr. John F. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. 

Mrs. John F. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. 

Mr. Walter A. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. 

Mrs. Walter A. Heinitsh, Lancaster, Pa. 

Miss Carrie T. Hess, Mahanoy City, Pa. 

Mr. Henry J. Johnson, Millersburg, Pa. 

Mrs. Henry J. Johnson, Millersburg, Pa. 

Mr. John Alden Knight, Lewistown, Pa. 

Mrs. John Alden Knight, Lewistown, Pa. 

Miss Elizabeth V. Knight, Lewistown, Pa. 

Mr. Porter Kinports, Grant, Pa. 

Mrs. Porter Kinports, Grant, Pa. 

Mr. Amos Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. 

Mrs. Amos Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. 

Mr. Daniel F. Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. 

Mrs. Daniel F. Lebo, Williamstown, Pa. 

Mr. George W. Mcllhenny, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. George W. Mcllhenny, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. John T. McFall, York, Pa. 

Mr. Isaac Mossop, Wiconisco, Pa. 

Mrs. Isaac Mossop, Wiconisco, Pa. 

Miss Fannie S. Mossop, W'iconisco, Pa. 

Mr. James H. Minds, Ramey, Pa. 

Mrs. James H. Minds, Ramey, Pa. 

Mr. George H. Maeklin, McVeytown, Pa. 

Mrs. George H. Maeklin, McVeytown, Pa. 

Mr. Robert S. Magee, Wrightsville, Pa. 

Mr. J. Morris Miller, Shiremanstown, Pa. 

Mrs. J. Morris Miller, Shiremanstown, Pa. 

Mr. Edgar S. Manning, Newville, Pa. 

Mr. E. S. Parker, Lewistown, Pa. 

Mr. Wm. H. Patterson, Clearfield, Pa. 

Mrs. Wm. H. Patterson, Clearfield, Pa. 

Mr. Chas. E. Patton, Curwensville, Pa. 

Mrs. Chas. E. Patton, Curwensville, Pa. 

Mr. C. Day Rudy, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mrs. C. Day Rudy, Harrisburg, Pa. 



xii Members. 



Mr. James E. Robison, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. C. S. Russell, Curwensville, Pa. 

Mrs. C. S. Russell, Curwensville, Pa. 

Mr. Henry W. Snyder, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Jos. M. Selheimer, Lewistown, Pa. 

Mrs. G«orge H. Spang, Lebanon, Pa. 

Miss Marguerite Spang, Lebanon, Pa. 

Mr. Jacob K. Seacrist, York, Pa. 

Mr. Grant Weidman, Jr., Lebanon, Pa. 

Mr. Charles D. Weirick, Lebanon, Pa. 

Mrs. Charles D. Weirick, Lebanon, Pa. 

Mr. Louis A. Warren, Lan9do^vne, Pa. 

Mrs. Louis A. Warren, Lansdowne, Pa. 

Mr. James W. Wagner, Mifflintown, Pa. 

Mrs. James W. Wagner, Mifflintown, Pa. 

Mrs. George C. Zollinger, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Miss Bessie Zollinger, Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. R. L. Stall, Tourist Agent, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Mr. J. C. Burkholder, Special Baggagemaster, Harrisburg, Pa. 
Mr. John Hammond, Pullman Conductor, .... Harrisburg, Pa. 




0/ W \!> 
o o o 



CHAPTER I. 

THE OUTLOOK. 

THE experiences of "The San Francisco Club" of Pilgrim 
Commander}^ K. T. No. 11, of Harrisburg, Pa., during 
their late pilgrimage to the Shrine of the Triennial Con- 
clave of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the 
United States of America has now passed into history. 

It, therefore, remains to give but a brief rehearsal of its 
salient features as a resume to which the mind may revert, that 
meinory may fill up the details of scenes experienced, that are 
now inscribed upon its pages that only the limits of life can 
efface. 

Tlie days of anticipation and the details of preparation for 
the auspicious inauguration of the trip having been happily 
consummated, the gallant Sir Knights and their no less enthusi- 
astic Ladies took possession of their respective sections of the 
Pullman Special at "high noon" of the 18th of August, 1904, in 
the station of our Capital City. 

In passing it may be well to state at this juncture, that the 
coaches assigned the Pilgrims by the Pennsylvania Railroad 
Company for their accommodation were first-class in all their 
appointments, and consisted of the dining car "Continental," and 
the four sleepers "Commodore," "Cremona," "Groveton" and 
"Jackson," with the annex of the Pullman observation car the 
"Olympic" — the last of which it will be recalled was the car that 
carried the remains of our late lamented and much beloved Mc- 
Kinley after his death, from Buffalo to Washington and thence 
to his last resting place at Canton, Ohio, the home of his early 
and more mature manhood, ere he entered upon his Congressional 
and Presidential career at the National Capital, and prior to his 
becoming the first citizen of the Eepublic. 

In speaking specifically of the said observation car, it will 
bo readily recalled that it was furnished with portable and 

(13) 



14 The Pilgrimage of 



easy lounging chairs, two library cases and attached writing 
desks — both amply supplied with a selected assortment of books 
and writing materials for all who might wish to avail themselves 
of the same — and last, but not least, with an upright piano of 
modern style and construction, that, in connection with its as- 
sociations, was much more than a piece of mere ornament, as 
will be adverted to later in the course of the narration. 

The ol)servation platform upon the rear end of the car, with 
its enclosing brazen balustrade, side prolongation of the car 
paneling, and the portable camp-stools thereof gave accommoda- 
tion for a score or more at a time of the fresh-air qui vives — 
accompaniments that conspired to make the locality a place 
of frequent resort of those desirous of varying side views of 
the Pullman windows wath the backward and receding outlines 
on either side of prairie, hill and mountain outlook, that in 
kaleideoscopic succession "greeted and gladdened the eye" as 
the fleeting train swept along amid the flood of sunshine that 
poured its ceaseless radiance around under the almost perpetual 
blue of the upper vault, that, for the major part of the time, 
offered no obstruction of cloud or haze to dampen the ardor 
of the tourist that was, therefore, kept in a constant state of 
expectancy as the varying landscape lent its charms to perpetu- 
ate and enliven the successive pictures. 

THE EPICUEEAN OUTLOOK. 

To return, however, from the suggestions of the car of observa- 
tion, as it opened up from its vantage point the possibilities of 
the aesthetic, it seems proper in this connection also to note 
other specific features of the Special, that the railway manage- 
ment, in conjunction with the suggestions of the very efflcient 
Committee of Arrangements of the Club, had placed at the dis- 
posal of the Pilgrims for their gastronomic entertainment; as 
well as for the conservation of their physical comfort while in 
transit during the hours of social conclave, or when 

"Tired Nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep, 
That, like the world, its ready visit pays where fortune smiles," 



The San Francisco Cluh. 15 

invites to the recuperation of slumber, for which each Knight 
and Lady was supplied with a car-section ; and, therefore, during 
the waking hours each couple could sit side by side, or vis a vis, 
as preference dictated ; or when sleep demanded its due wage, the 
upper berth could be discarded, remain closed at will, and thus 
ample ventilation to the clear-story above was afforded to the 
inmates without intrusion upon the comfort of others. 

And now, last, but not least, it is proper that the appoint- 
ments of the car set apart for the "renewal of the inner man," 
as already forshadowed, should not be passed over in silence. 
As to the personnel of the management of that department, one 
cannot pay too high a compliment upon the head caterer and 
cook, or upon the waiters, who were picked men that seemed 
to vie with each other in complying with the duties of their 
office, and in the extension of habitual courtesies to all with 
whom they came in contact. 

That the specifications of the menu, for instance, may be 
more readily recalled, one need but revert to the bill of fare 
that each guest retained as a souvenir of their tri-daily diver- 
sions — a copy of which is submitted on pages 16 and 17. 



16 The Pilgrimage of 



fIDenu 

PILGRIM COMMANDERY, NO. 11, K. T. 

En Route to 

Triennial Conclave 

at 

San Francisco, Cal., 1904. 



Pullman Service. 



Luncheon. 



Soups. 

Vegetable. 

Roast Duck. Apple Sauce. 

Vegetables. 

Hashed Browned Potatoes. French String Beans. 

Cold Meats. 

Roast Beef. Tongue. Ham. Boneless Sardines. 

Boston Baked Beans. 

Chow-Chow. Mixed Pickles. Queen Olives. 

Saratoga Chips. Sliced Tomatoes. 

Dessert. 

Imperial Pudding. Marmalade. Golden Gate Fruits, 

English and Graham Wafers. 

Fruit. 

Cheese. Bent's Water Crackers. 

Coffee. Tea. 

En Route, Sept. 18, 1904. 



The San Francisco Cluh. 17 

PILGRIM COMMANDEEY, NO. 11, K. T. 

En Route to 

Triennial Conclave 

at 

San Francisco, Cal., 1904. 



Pullman Service. 



Dinner. 



Soups. 

Cream of Tomato. 

Boiled California Trout. Roast Turkey. 

Cranberry Sauce. 

Roasts. 

Roast Beef. 

Entrees. 

Baked Macaroni with Cheese. 

Vegetables. 

Mashed Potatoes. Lima Beans. June Peas. 

Salad. 

Celery. 

Plain Bread. Graham Bread. Brown Bread. 

Dessert. 

Cake. Marmalade. French a la Cream. 

Fresh Fruit. 

Cheese. Bent's Water Crackers. 

Coffee. Cocoa. Tea. 

En Route. Sept. 18, 1904. Best Wishes. 

One can, therefore, but affirm that starting out under such 
auspices, the members of the Club could do no less than cor- 
dially give assent to the assurances made, that the sequel await- 
ing them could not be disappointing, but rather the evolution 
in fact of a climax whose realization had thus been naturally 
anticipated, and, hence, not in the least to be entertained in 
denial of those assurances. 
2 



18 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER II. 

THE WHEELS TURN. 

Is it, therefore, thought to be a matter of ^vondel•, that with 
one accord the Pilgrims should speed forward upon the rsponsive 
rail upon their initial course along the banks of the "blue Juni- 
ata." without stop or slow-up, until the busy precincts of Al- 
toona received our panting engine, and an additional iron horse 
was drafted into service to scale the heights of the Alleghenies? 
In due time the Horse-Shoe Bend is doubled, as the declining 
sun passes bfhind the loftier peaks of the intercepting moun- 
tains — a fact that did but enhance the natural blue of the 
imprisoned waters of the enclosed vale below that are the treas- 
ured source of supply to the cities of the plain upon the lower 
level, that, to the inquisitive eye, are seen to nestle in confident 
security of the aforesaid blessings in store for them. 

The ascent of the mountain continues for some half-hour 
longer, when the summit is reached, and the hostelry and well- 
kept grounds of Cresson come into view as we leave the wild 
mountain scenery beliind us. We would fain perambulate the 
attractive walks and lounge upon the spacious verandas thereof, 
but our impatient steed will brook no dela)^, and the descent 
of the steel pathway commences, over which we speed at no un- 
certain rate, as the shades of evening gather about us, veiling 
all objects without while suggestive of other sources of entertain- 
ment within. A new experience, however, soon enlists our at- 
tention, and the "Call to Dinner" awakens other associations 
that in turn were also imperative. We accept the call without 
ceremony, and prove ourselves willing guests. Ere, however, we 
are aware the Special glides into the commodious railway sta- 
tion of the Smolry City. We halt, however, only long enough 
to exchange greetings with friends of the locality that wish us 
hon voyage to the Occident, and to install another railway crew 



The San Francisco Club. 19 

and waiting engine, when we must pass out from the well-lighted 
thoroughfares of the city and environment into the shades of 
night beyond, and become perforce oblivious of the outer world. 

OTHER RESOURCES. 

Tlie social amenities of new acquaintances made are cultivated 
and those of old ones are brought into requisition, and thus the 
passing hours are enlivened until the sympathetic porters an- 
nounce their readiness to comply with our orders to prepare our 
couches for our first night's repose under the conditions of our 
novel environment, as we pass beyond the bounds of our beloved 
native State. Canton, Mansfield, Fort Wayne and other inter- 
mediate points are passed unrecognized in the darkness, and the 
early morning finds us rapidly approaching Chicago, where we 
arrive on time al)out 8 A. M. of the second day of the itinerary, 
to find a leaden sky and surcharged clouds baptizing us with our 
first instalment of rain. The news of the approach of the Special 
had preceded us, and the Bros. Kurzenknabe, formerly from 
Harrisburg, but now residents of Chicago, were on hand to ex- 
tend to the Pilgrims a Knightly greeting, and to conduct us 
to such places of interest as the intermissions of the showers 
would admit of. The first objective point was the Masonic 
Temple, a building of twenty-two stories height, to the upper 
floors of which, as well as intermediate heights, its powerful 
and commodious elevators carried a large contingent of our com- 
pany. We were particularly interested in the beautiful decora- 
tions and furniture of the lodge rooms, and the mystic appoint- 
ments of preparing and minor apartments, that showed a high 
degree of artistic detail and wealth of adornment that was a 
revelation to the uninitiated. The decorators, with brush and 
palette, were still at work, giving the finishing touches to walls 
and cornice, preparatory to the re-opening for work in the early 
Fall. 

The lofty elevation of the observation rooms would have af- 
forded an unsurpassed view of the lake, wharfs and shipping, 
and the city in its vast proportions and outlying parks, had the 
.sky been clear and the haze dissipated. 



20 The Pilgrimage of 



Leaving the Temple the Bros. Kurzenknabe accompanied 
the Pilgrims to the new Shrine Temple that, in its appoint- 
ments, both completed and in process of finish under the hands 
of the contractors, bids fair to rival anything of the kind in 
the western domain. The lecture and reception hall has the 
additional feature of a grand pipe organ of great power and 
amplitude, as demonstrated b}' Sir Knight George Kurzenknabe 
who, i)i addition to being a most courteous gentleman, is an 
expert upon the pedals and the keys; and hence was well quali- 
fied to bring out its superb tones, both in fugue and the more en- 
rapturing conceptions of a classic role, as interpreted by the great 
.Masters. 

Tlie attractive wares and elegant exhibits of the department 
stores of the retail section of the city next engaged the atten- 
tion of the more impressive members ; and ere long the penchant 
for the possession of souvenirs of more or less ornamental and 
j)ractical value asserted itself, and drafts upon the exchequers 
of the Sir Knights began, but their surcease was not yet. 

Had the weather been propitious, the far-famed parks of 
tlie city would no doubt have been visited, but the bedraggled 
skirts and water-soaked footwear, of the ladies particularly, ap- 
pealed for relief, and, therefore, the accommodations of the 
Special appeared to be the more attractive at this juncture, and 
thitlierward in broken groups took their way, content to await 
tlic benefit of other skies of a liigher latitude at a later date 
to further satisfy their pedestrian proclivities. The Special, 
meanwliile, had been transferred (as per bulletin) from the 
Pennsylvania Pailroad system to the Chicago and Northwestern, 
and the Pilgrims in a brief while found themselves at the station 
of the latter: and, repossessing themselves of their respective 
sections, were ready for their au revoirs to the "Windy City" at 
3 :30 P. M. 



The San Francisco Club. 31 



CHAPTER III. 

HIGHEE LATITUDES. 

Since the railway, in its northern course, skirted Lake Michi- 
gan, the sky continued to be more or less obscured by the low- 
lying clouds, and, hence, the gloom of the murky atmosphere 
did not contribute to enhance the outlook and thus attract 
the attention of the otherwise eager sightseers. A passing notice, 
however, was given to the vacant and advertised lots of the 
city of the false prophet, Dowie — the Modern Zion, whose taber- 
nacle spires and public buildings were seen over-topping the brow 
of the ridge of land that parallels the railway in the background, 
and separated therefrom by wire fencing to the very verge of 
the consecrated territory. It appeared to the unprejudiced pro- 
moter that a number of booms would be required to improve by 
imported settlers the sites still open for occupation. Hence, the 
Modern Elijah will still be obliged to proclaim his evangel, if he 
would keep his coffers replenished and his prestige unmortgaged 
against ultimate bankruptcy. 

The cities of Waukegan, Kenosha and Racine, under like con- 
ditions, pass in rapid succession — centres of activities that no 
doubt would have repaid a more deliberate survey, but as seen 
only from the moving train, and under the atmospheric disabili- 
ties aforementioned, they could but leave upon the mind a tran- 
sient impression. 

After an interval of some two hours from our departure from 
Chicago, the Special rolled into the station of Milwaukee, and 
the opportunity to alight was afforded. The occasion was not 
that any of the Pilgrims were so desirous to sample the beverage 
for which this city is so famous that they accepted the priv- 
ilege, but, being a centre of a population of 285,315 inhab- 
itants, the facts of wealth and the attendant objects of in- 
terest, that necessarily accompany such a condition, had, to 



22 The Pilgdmage of 



the knowledge of all, given the city a prestige that had reached 
even the nnnophisticated regions of the East; and in many 
localities therein awakened a spirit of rivalry that has no 
doubt added an additional smile to the brow of the jolly old 
soul Gambrinus. Dividing, therefore, into groups and pairs, 
as caprice or a fixed purpose prevailed, some visited friends, 
others meandered up the incline to and through the plateau 
park, whose central object of interest is the Juneau statue, that, 
in honor to the founder of the city, has given its name to this 
gem of green slopes and gravel walks; and with its fringe of 
palatial mansions overlooks the broad lake many feet below, 
upon whose surface plied in the early days the canoes of the 
Aborigines, as they brought their pelts to the old trader, and 
thus laid for him the foundation of that success, the results 
of which the city is now enjoying. It was but a well-earned 
memento. Other Pilgrims, in turn, by trolley, explored the 
city and its environs, while others perambulated the business 
portions and marts of trade in quest of such entertainment as 
arcades and windows supply; or in the purchase of such pieces 
of handiwork as opportunity might suggest. By some of such 
perambulators the climax of the decorative and plastic art was 
found in the apartments and reception rooms of the Pabst and 
Anhauser-Busch saloons. Upon all sides of these rooms were 
evidences of the expenditure of the most lavish sums of money 
in the purchase of masterpieces in painting and ceramics that 
conspired to make these places of resort most attractive to the 
bon-vivant, the epicure and the novices of dissipation. 

Here, for instance, are seen a group in bronze of Bacchanalian 
subjects in their most abandoned postures of degeneracy; there, 
fruits and flowers rivaling Nature's choicest productions; rare 
Japanese vases of colossal size and emblazoned with most unique 
designs: chefs d'oeuvre of the palette and sculptor's chisel — 
the whole producing a combined effect that showed the work of 
master ex-perts in the science of effect worthy of higher ends. 
One exquisite piece of plastic art was that of Aurora ushering 
in the dawn of day, as she steps forth from opening panels of 
the eastern walls of the upper clear-story, representing a petite 



The San Francisco Club. 23 



angelic nude in lull relief, whose roseate tinted flesh glowed in 
a flood of reflected light, the source of which was hidden in the 
illusive back-ground, as if too resplendent as yet to rush full- 
orbed into the embrace of day, and yet fully anticipated in the 
palpable reflections and semi-reflections that reveled in the open, 
and thus, as it were, heightened the responsive glow of the 
central figure that no direct radiance could approximate. The 
conception, thus so successfully embodied, while betraying the 
artist to be a genius of the first order, was at the same time 
the occasion of pangs of regret that such an exhibit should be 
prostituted to pander to the gratification of the lower appetites 
of those who habitually frequent such places, as if the prime 
incentive for such patronage could be condoned for by the 
borrowed credentials of the salon. There are, no doubt, dupli- 
cates of many of these works of virtuoso within the luxurious 
boudoirs of some of the private mansions of the same city ; but 
being environed by the hallowed associations of the home-life, or 
the educational restraints of the art gallery, the wholesome cul- 
ture of the aesthetical faculties is attained without encounter- 
ing the glamour of the saloon, or compromising the sanctions of 
self-restraint. 

An apparent emulation to enlist a like species of patronage was 
seen in the apartments of the Schlitz Brewing Co.'s saloon, par- 
ticularly in the wall decorations of the same, in the variety and 
high order of talent shown in the paintings and their appur- 
tenances, that meet the eye from every coigne of advantage, the 
objective point of the proprietors being to utili;6e and blend the 
proclivities of the lower nature with the emotions of the higher ; 
and as a return for the Joint result, to appeal thereby to the finer 
sentiments of their patrons not to accept the compliment without 
the tender of a pecuniar}^ equivalent therefor. 

Ample materials for a further digression from the purpose of 
the present review no doubt recurs to the mind of the alert Pilgrim 
who would, no doubt, like to dwell further upon the inferences 
drawn from the fact that while but two of the licensed places of 
the city has been specially adverted to, what might be said of the 
remaining 1,867 of such places, thus shoAving that upon the basis 



24 The Pilgrimage of 



of population there is one such place to every 152 of the in- 
habitants — a fact that is only excelled by two other cities in 
the United States, viz, San Francisco and San Antonio. A halt, 
however, must now be imposed, and a return to the awaiting Spe- 
cial becomes the order of the day. In compliance therewith, even 
the most tardy report presence, and after a brief interchange of 
experiences between the more communicative, the respite of sleep 
invokes silence, and the activities of the third day are brought 
to a close. 




o o 



The San Francisco Club. 25 



CHAPTER IV. 

ST. PAUL AND MINNEAPOLIS. 

The morning of the 21st found us in near proximity to 
St. Paul, which we reach upon schedule time. Meanwhile, break- 
fast having been disposed of, and the commodious Union Rail- 
road station having been exchanged for the Special, Knight and 
Lady were soon upon the qui vive to enter upon the program 
of the day. 

After a short delay a hegira materialized, when some by 
tally-ho, others by automobile, barouches and trolley started forth 
to explore first in order the city of St. Paul and its suburbs, and 
thence to extend the outlook to Minneapolis and the intermediate 
places of interest. Having been forewarned to accept as a fact the 
towering piles of business houses and public buildings of Chicago 
— the Metropolis of the West — we were, we admit, unprepared 
for the facades and lofty proportions of the busy emporiums, 
houses of business, and the really ornate structures of municipal, 
educational and religious import here presented — creations that 
were, indeed, a revelation in no degree inferior, if not superior, to 
many of those of the much older cities of the East of equal and 
even greater population (that of St. Paul being,in 1900, 163,065; 
the first white child being born there in 1839, territorial capital 
located there in 1851, the population of the previous year being 
850) and of greater presumed fixed capital. St. Paul, being lo- 
cated at the head of navigation upon the Mississippi River, is 
therefore possessed of a natural advantage over its twin city, 
Minneapolis, that has enabled it to maintain its precedence, 
(though without any disparagement to the latter,) in connection 
with its earlier date of recognition in the business world, and for 
its greater variety of commercial ventures. And yet Minne- 
apolis, as a good second, has acquired in its marvelous develop- 
ment, the distinction in name of one of the phenomenal cities 



26 The Pilgrimage of 



of the United States. With a population in 1850 of 3,300, an 
incorporated town government in 1858, a city government in 
1867 it leaped in population in 1900 to 203,718. Utilizing the 
40,000 horse power of the Falls of St. x\nthony, precipitated 
from a height of sixty-eight feet, it has readily reached the de- 
served distinction of being the greatest flour-producing and 
wheat-shipping centre in the world. Its lumber output ranks 
next in importance to that of its flour — its cut lumber as long 
as fifteen years ago reached the enormous amount of 375,855,648 
feet. 

After traversing the principal streets of the latter city the ma- 
jority of the members of the Club took advantage of the opportu- 
nity of visiting one of the groups of flour mills, viz, that of the 
Washburn, Crosby Co., and by the courtesy of the general man- 
ager thereof, Mr. Wra. Howard Bowey, were conducted through 
the largest one of the five mills operated by the said corporation, 
that rolls and prepares for shipment 10,000 barrels of flour per 
day — the entire plant aggregating 35,000 barrels daily. And, as 
we are led from floor to floor, commencing in the upper stories, the 
ditt'erent processes by which the bran-coats are removed, and the 
gluten and the starch crushed to a powdery consistency of velvety 
softness, our interest is sustained and we learn the routine by 
which Gold iledal brand is brought to its perfection. As ex- 
plained to us, after the cleansing processes have been perfected, 
"the wheat, measured by the most perfect automatic device, 
which, by the simple principle of gravity, separates from the 
flowing stream of grain just enough for a barrel of flour, drops 
to the first floor of the mill, where the rollers begin their work 
of crushing. The early reductions serve to crush the grain only 
slightly, remove much of the bran, and bring the residuum 
after several crushings, to what is called the granular stage. 
At each reduction some starch cells are crushed and some fine 
flour produced, and none of this is allowed to escape with the 
discarded bran, but is bolted out and reserved for the better 
grades of flour." "Yards of silk bolting-cloth are used to sepa- 
rate the fine flour," and when it is realized that the product is 
made to pass through this fabric, we discover how the afore- 



The San Francisco Club. 37 

mentioned velvety softness of the said l)rand of flour is pro- 
duced. Thus, over and over again, as the successive hoppers 
were inspected, it was seen how the said granular part is crushed 
and recrushed and the fine flour sifted out. Again and again the 
"middlings," as the still retained mixed product of the rollers 
is called, are purified hy further sittings and separation, and at a 
proper stage the germ is removed from the flour. "Its removal 
is necessary, for, if crushed with the other product, the color 
and keeping qualities of the flour is affected." It was said that 
by these various reductions about seventy per cent, of the grain 
is utilized for food, and the balance becomes bran and shorts. 
The last reduction of the fine flour is then ready for shipment. 
The career of Cadwalader C. Washburn, the founder of the 
milling plant identified with his name, from his youth to that 
of its climax as that of a successful business man and publicist, 
reads like a romance, and will ever, no doubt, be treasured as 
that of the most beneficent that the pages of the history of his 
beloved city can justly boast. And, too, it should be a souvenir 
in the memories of all that looked upon those magnificent mills 
that may well be designated as monuments that may prove to be 

"]\Iore lasting than brass and towering- 
Overlook royal pyramids." 

The flight of time did not admit of a visit also to the Pills- 
bury milling plant, in near proximity, that has also obtained a 
world-wide reputation. "Pillsbury Best" and W. & C. Co.'s 
"Gold Medal" have each attained a climax of quality and im- 
mensity of product. May the Pilgrims long enjoy a full meas- 
ure of these coveted results, is the fervent wish of one of them, 
at least. Having had a toothsome acquaintance with each of 
these brands he would be unselfish. 

Had time admitted, many of the company would have liked 
much to have inspected the methods by which the raging flood 
of water is harnessed, as it rushes down the feeding incline at 
an angle of forty-five degrees, with an impetus that suggests the 
parallel of the American Eapids of ISTiagara. 



28 The. Pilgrimage of 



.Mid-artcniooii had now, however, come, and the Park and Falls 
of ^linneliaha av.aited us and thitherward we made our way. 
Here we experienced our first surprise of the combined effect of 
the horticultural, lake and Fall combined with the zoological and 
aviary accompaniments. To the majority the Falls of Minne- 
iiaha, or the Laughing Waters, seemed to be the centre of attrac- 
tion in its beautiful sheet of some thirty or more feet of altitude 
— an agreeable volume of water, when the season of the year was 
considered. The view of the same, both from above and from 
the vantage of the rustic bridge below the Falls, as indicated by 
the exclamations of pleasure and the snapping kodaks, with the 
lingering unwillingness with which the viewers withdrew to rus- 
ticate amid the other centres of attraction for which the park, 
with its 173 acres is characterized, bore its own testimony of ap- 
preciation. And, as the poetically inclined recalled the final 
exclamation of Longfellow's dying Minnehaha: 

"Hark ! 1 hear a rushing. 
Hear a roaring and a rushing, 
Hear the Falls of Minnehaha 
Calling to me from a distance," 

they turned their footsteps from the sylvan environs of what, to 
manj- of them, was a dream of the imagination, as they, in 
other days, perused the rythmic lines of Hiawatha, and with 
the same now realized, they sought their vehicles and sped their 
way toward the point of the morn's departure. 

The day having been most auspicious in its cloudless sky 
and agreeable temi)erature. the remaining hours at our disposal 
were improved in directing our attention to the suburban resi- 
dences and tastefully kept grounds of the latter eit}^ that ap- 
peared to much advantage in the after-glow of the day as they 
passed in review before us. The rapid approach of the hour of 
6 P. M., and the admonitions of the bulletin warn us to return 
to the Special that has now reoccupied the siding of the morn- 
ing and is ready for our occupancy. Dinner having been de- 
spatched after the successive "calls," the agreeable experiences 



The San Francisco Club. 29 

of the day were accepted as a reliable harbinger of wliat tlio 
future had in store in the upper tier of tlie state, and to many, 
the unexplored territory of the Dominion. The unanimous v(^r- 
dict was, at all events, that the pilgrimage thus far had not been 
in the least disappointing. 



WW 

o o o 



30 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER V. 

SABBATH MOEN. 

'Che following morning, the 31st, the first Sabbath of our 
transit, awoke us to the consciousness of new surroundings in 
marked contrast with those of the previous day as we bounded 
along over the plains of North Dakota. The 20th having been 
somewhat of a radical change to the majority of the members of 
the Club, as compared with the demands of the home life, the val- 
orous sons and daughters of the puissant Knights of the Temple 
of the early days were somewhat tardy in responding to the sum- 
mons of the "first call" to breakfast, and, therefore, they were 
somewhat unprepared to become interested in the environment. 
The morning collation, however, being at length despatched, 
groups of the tardy ones gathered here and there, as choice dic- 
tated, while the gentlemen of nicotine proclivities betook them- 
selves to the smoking room, and there, under the nervine effects 
of their favorite stimulus and the aroma of the fragrant so- 
called Havana, compared their experiences of the day previous, 
or the associations of an earlier period at home and abroad. 
An occasional glance from the uncurtained windows revealed 
but little of interest to the more luxurious devotees; and yet, 
from the alternate phases of hillock and depression, patches of 
woodland and the changing tints of the slow-maturing spring 
wheat and oats, presented contrasts to the beholder. And later, 
as the more arid tracts came into view of the dead levels, the 
inquiry was suggested as to whether, under the resources of 
intelligent culture these plains also would ever blossom with 
the verdiire of more congenial soils, or whether the sage brush 
only would for time indefinite continue to luxuriate upon the 
alkaline properties of the scant alluvium and the moiety of 
moisture deposited by partial dews in the long intermissions 
of cloud deposits of rain and melting snows of later Spring 
and early Autumn. Or, again, whether the lowing herds or 



The San Francisco Club. 31 



neighing steeds of the ranchman or sturdy plowman will, in 
the not distant future, enliven the landscape as well as crown 
the glebe with laughing harvests and the varied products of 
agricultural toil; or whether the reign of the coyote or burrow- 
ing gopher (prairie-dog) shall continue uninterrupted — the one 
flitting here and there over his wild domain, and the latter in 
his colonies of earth-dwellers pre-empting the scantily clothed 
surface to the exclusion of the more succulent roots of a more 
vigorous vegetation, that must be the precursor of a sustained 
higher life. Overlooking, however, the mischievous habits of the 
little rodent, and captivated by the rapidity of his movements 
from burrow to burrow — now standing upright upon his 
haunches, like the grey squirrel of the East, and cunningly 
watching us as the train passes by, and then disappearing in 
a flash by fear or freak into a nearby hole, only to return a 
moment later under the impulse of curiosity, as if loath to lay 
aside his coquettishness even at the appearance of fancied danger. 
Being thus agreeably entertained by his coyish gambols, as 
other like dwellers by the wayside are induced to repeat the 
same antics, even the least impressive of the ladies that intui- 
tively recognize from a fellow-feeling the alleged innocent pen- 
chant for coquetry, cannot refrain from ejaculations as they 
watch the role of the little actors. Upon the other hand it must 
be admitted that some of the more ungentle Knights did not 
exhibit such gentle consideration as the aforesaid for the prank- 
ish interloper, but with malice aforethought, gun and bullet 
sought to cut short the diversions of the latter, and with 
slaughter dire to stain the soil incarnadine, and inflict cruel 
death upon the victim of their sport. But not so did the un- 
willing object yield his liberty and life, but unveiling the dark 
design of his would-be slayer, he dodges the issue, 

Being content to run away, 

That he might dodge another day. 

THE PASSIXG HOURS. 

Thus the passing intervals of time are beguiled, and the de- 
sire for a broader outlook comes to the front. A glance at the 



32 The Pilgrimage of 



itinerary leads the inquirer to make his observations as to his 
relative location in his nortln\ard flight. It is then discovered 
that already Valley City, Ivan, Rogers, Wimbledon, Kensal, Car- 
rington, Leniert, Enirick, Fessenden, Harvey, Anamoose, Bal- 
four and "N'oltair have been passed, either in the night or early 
morning and, hence, did not claim a passing notice. At Volva, 
a small hamlet of some half dozen small houses, that like most 
of the stations mentioned, were water or mere way stations, the 
Special stopped for some ten minutes, and all embraced the op- 
portunity to stretch their limb? and take brief exercise. Sawyer, 
a similar hamlet, after a short interval, Avas next passed, and 
Minot, the intersection of the Northern Pacific with the Soo 
line, some twenty miles further on. from the fact of this junction 
of the two railway lines, showed considerable improvement in its 
better built houses of the employes of either roads and their 
outlying lots. Burlington, Foxholm, Donnybrook and Ken- 
mare claimed but little more attention than that of mere way 
stations, except that they marked the stages of approach to other 
])oints of greater interest. The hour of mid-day was now upon 
VIS, and the entire company were in a state of expectancy, from 
the fact of the scheduled approach of the Special to Portal — the 
international boundary line station betM'ecn the United States 
and the Canadian Dominion — although no special importance 
otherwise was attached to the station. Furthermore, a stop was 
made here for about a half-hour for the purposes of renewing 
the water supply of the train, and to await the arrival of the 
south-l)ound regular. There Avas, therefore, a general exodus 
from the Special, and the opportunity was improved to inter- 
view a couple of the representatives of a pair of houses stand- 
ing a short distance from the station upon the east side of the 
inilway — the one person being the prond mother of a young 
hopeful that she bore in her arms. These were soon the center 
of attraction — the I)abe ])assing from one to another, and at 
last receiving tlie benefit of a kodak snap-shot. Others, again, 
amused themselves inspecting a sod-covered hut, which, upon 
examination, proved to be a deserted cattle domicil in its last 
stage of degeneracy, h'eturning to the station, one of the em- 



The San Frcmcisco Club. 33 

ployes thereof pointed out the course of the international line 
passing eastward in front of the aforementioned houses, along a 
line of stakes that faded away in the dim distance, and west- 
ward similarly over the apparent pathless plains toward the 
far horizon, that no doubt upon close inspection would have 
shown unmistakable cairns of imperishable construction. The 
whistle signal being given, and the cry "all aboard'' having been 
heeded, the Special passed over and beyond into the territory of 
the Dominion as the notes 

"My country 'tis of thee," 

made the welkin ring, and thus proclaimed the fact that our 
transit from the homeland was intended to be brief, and by no 
means the proclamation of expatriation. 

As the patriotic strains died away, the unsentimental "first 
call to lunch" appropriately suggested the proverb of the "utile 
cum dulce" (the useful with the sweet), and thus extenuating the 
facts of the situation we were prevailed upon to accept the tran- 
sition. 

Estevan, the junction of the Soo, and the southeastern sec- 
tion of the Canadian Pacific, was the next objective point en 
route. This fact contributed somewhat to lift the village above 
the level of the commonplace, and revealed the source of its 
support. It will no doubt later, as the inducements for immi- 
gration become more widely known, respond to the new impetus 
thus naturally imparted. Continuing our northwestern course, 
as the sun perceptibly inclined toward the western goal, the next 
twenty-five mile stretch was duly apprehended, when we noticed 
a slight improvement in the quality of the vegetation, showing 
the presence of increased moisture in the soil, and the natural 
result thereof in the more frequent appearance of rural homes 
that tended to relieve the monotony of the outlook. Halbrite, 
Weyburn, Yellow Grass, Milestone, Eouleau and Drinkhouse are 
next noted in due order, as way stations, either of initial points 
of departure to other localities of the prairies, that do not appear 
in view to the occupants of passing trains, or as water stations 
3 



34 2'he Pilgrimage of 



of the railwa}' division that render a service in connection with 
the keeper of the same, that are essential to a successful develop- 
ment of the country whose prime agency is the railway itself — a 
fact demonstrated in the history of modern civilization; and 
which, in the particular case in hand, were to us so many mile- 
stones to register our progress to Pasqua — the next junction that 
will admit the Special to the western terminus of the Central Di- 
vision of the Main Line of the Canadian Pacific, as it stretches 
away to those centres of attraction that have so liberally con- 
tributed their moiety to the philosophy of modern travel, and 
thereby incidentally been the prolific parent of these modes of 
transit, which specifically are the very features of the mis- 
sion of our own most august Special, that has not thus far 
faltered in its consciousness of the trust imposed therein. Hence, 
at this point we note that we are but some eight miles distant 
from iloose Jaw, which, we are informed, was so named from the 
abbreviation of the original Indian name that, in the vernacular, 
means "The-creek-where-the-white-man-mended-the-cart-with-a- 
moose-jaw-bone." Specimens of the suggested Indian are also 
said still to be seen wandering through the town during the 
hours of business — the population of the same at this time being 
estimated to be upon an average about 2,000, of all nationalities. 

As this point is upon the bounds of another even more arid 
region than that just passed over, it was something of a relief to 
know that the region before us ere reaching ]\redicine Hat, some 
two hundred and fifty miles west, would be traversed during the 
night, and. therefore, not much of a deprivation of landscape 
attractions would be experienced thereby. 

The '"first call" to dinner being announced, and a second like 
summons having been heeded by those that had lingered for a 
more appetizing interval, it was by common consent agreed upon, 
when all had been served to their satisfaction in the dining car, 
to assemble for a sacred song service within the congenial ap- 
pointments of the observation car. Requisitions having been 
made upon the members of the Club, it was discovered that there 
was quite a contingent of instrumentalists upon the piano among 
the ladies, as well as of trained voices of both sexes. Among 



The San Frcmcisco Club. 35 

the former we note: Mrs. Donaldson, Mrs. Russell and Misses 
Knight and Spang. 

And among the gentlemen, not to make invidious distinctions, 
may be mentioned, Sir Knights John and Walter Heinitsh, of 
Lancaster, and Sir Knight George Foerster, of Harrisburg. 

The Committee of Arrangements having provided an assort- 
ment of music books for such occasions, no difficulty was experi- 
enced in improvising a select program, appropriate to the as- 
sociations of the day ; and thus the declining hours thereof and 
those of early night were rendered vocal with sacred sentiment 
and song. The opportunity thus utilized in ascriptions of praise 
to Him that had bestowed such capabilities upon the creatures 
of His hand, found expression in such grateful accents that the 
occasion became the precedent for frequent subsequent repeti- 
tions of similar recitals ere the termination of the Pilgrimage. 

The hour of retirement to rest having come on apace, the 
final hymns were sung, when each to their respective sections 
repaired, and soon "did sleep spread its soft dominion" o'er 
willing suppliants as they wrapped the curtain of oblivion around 
them, and entered upon the imaginary experiences of the land of 
dreams. 




O O O 



36 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER VI. 

EN EOUTE. 

First "call to breakfast" having aroused the sleepers upon the 
morn of the 22(1, they found the Special speeding toward Irvine, 
and thence to Paslile}', the precincts of Dunmore and Dunmore 
Junetiou — the last so named from the fact that the Crows' Xest 
Railroad starts from this point, taking a directly western course, 
in extension apparently of the general direction by which we had 
come from Moose Jaw. From this point we again take the 
northwesterly course toward the Rockies. 

During the space of the forty miles passed over before arriving 
at the said Junction, the territory gave evidences of a change in 
the soil in its geological character from the shallow alluvium to 
the underlying groups of the Jurassic formation, passing almost 
imperceptibly into the cretaceous strata, that are rich in their 
reptilian and shell debris — the latter being often the matrix 
in AA'hich are found most frequently the remains of the huge 
saurians of the pterodactyl (colossal flying lizard) and Dinosaur 
(cross between the alligator and hippopotamus) — this being 
what is known in geology as the Mesozoic period formation. 
No doubt that, had we had time to stop over, we might have 
seen among the curios of Dunmore (or at least at Calgary) some 
of these interesting remains. The richness of the soil, as shown 
in the product of its nutritious grasses, makes the outlying dis- 
tricts particularly adapted to the pa.sturing of horses and cattle, 
while, at the same time, the more hardy cereals attain to such 
perfection as secure for their culture considerable attention. Of 
the evidences of these we saw the scattered herds and ricks, as 
we nearcd and after leaving Dunmore — the leading propagators 
being the Canadian Land and Ranche Company, that have, here 
and there along the line, as we pursued our way by the course 
that the crow flies, pre-empted the most available tracts. That 
a someAvhat adequate knowledge of the level of the territory 



The San Francisco Club. 37 

passed over may appear, it is seen that for the space of about 
150 miles to this point the descent has been but some twenty- 
feet. From Dunmore Junction, however, to Medicine Hat — a 
distance of but five miles, the altitude above the sea level has 
decreased about 230 feet — the railroad now dropping into the 
valley of the South Saskatchewan, that is crossed by the railway 
near the latter station, commands a beautiful view up and down 
the valley of the river, and a most grateful relief to the monotony 
of the arid dead levels so recently passed over. The bridge 
over the said river is of steel, of the most approved modern 
structure, and impressed us very favorably as we passed over 
its well-stayed road-bed at considerable height above the rapidly 
flowing waters in their northeasterly course toward its out-flow 
into Lake Winnipeg. Our course, as before stated, being north- 
west, we saw it no more, though we caught a glimpse of its chief 
northwest tributary at Crowfoot Station, which it touches, as 
it also does Calgary, some 180 miles further upon our way. 

Medicine Hat requires a passing notice, with its population 
of some 2,000 and its local importance as a railway division 
point, with the necessary accompaniments thereof and its church, 
hospital and other public buildings that make the place the most 
important centre until Calgary, as above mentioned, is reached. 
The deposit of coal of late developed in near proximity, and gas 
wells, that in the possibilities of the future, contribute to the 
business of the place and attract capital for further investment. 

The lowest depression of railway has now been reached since 
the beginning of our late downward incline to the said river 
valley bottom; and the road-bed now rises to the higher plateau 
of the prairie, which continues its upward incline to the distant 
mountains that upon a clear day are seen to bound the distant 
horizon, but which at this epoch was obscured by a light haze 
of impalpable cloud. 

At the next station of Stair, some eight miles distant, the 
railroad crosses another of the Canadian Land and Eanche Com- 
pany's tracts that is their chief centre of cattle rearing. The 
upward grade to Eowell, a further stretch of seven miles, con- 
tinues, while beyond a downward grade again succeeds to Suf- 



38 The Pilgrimage of 



field as the Special bounds along at the rate of thirty-five miles 
per hour. 

Hoping to get our first glimpse of Bow Kiver, that, under the 
most favorable atmospheric conditions is said to be seen upon 
the southern horizon — the river with which we subsequently be- 
came so well acquainted — the gaze of many was therefore eagerly 
directed thitherward. But the aforementioned haze still ob- 
scured, although the intermediate distant alkaline dry levels of 
shallow lake sites in the refraction of the sun's rays upon the 
snowy sediment, like a mirage, might readily have been taken for 
sheets of placid waters; and thus, though not real, they con- 
tributed to enhance the outlook to the fertile imagination. The 
landscape, however, after a further short interval, grows in at- 
tractiveness, and the gentle undulating surface of the glebe 
in a more luxuriant vegetation gives encouragement for the 
more frequent ranches and improved farming lands, in which 
we now see maturing grain of wheat and oats that begin to show 
the variations of color prior to the harvest, that in the states of 
the homeland had already terminated some six weeks earlier. 

We were also informed from reliable sources that this entire 
plateau is underlaid with two or more beds of coal of good 
quality, and that natural gas is also found in many places by the 
sinking of artesian wells; and at Langevin and Tilley rail- 
way stations upon our way, that gas is utilized for motive power 
and illuminating purposes. As one approaches the last-named 
places upon the crisp frosty mornings of the early Fall, the 
highest peaks of the Rockies may be seen, as also at Crowfoot, 
which we have now reached, it being the half-way point between 
Medicine Hat and Calgary. 

The twelve intermediate stations that we have passed, sepa- 
rated from each other by the average interval of about eight 
miles, showed nothing of particular interest, being simply water 
stations or of other minor importance, inclusive of Cluny. At 
Gleichen, a small hamlet of some half-dozen modest houses, the 
Special made a stop of some thirty minutes, during which 
time the kodaks of the Club were kept busy, some of the Aborig- 
ines beinff bold enough to come near, and at least three little 



The San Francisco Club. 39 



white girls of from ten to fourteen years of age became well 
enough acquainted with the ladies as to stand for their photos, 
and, besides, were the recipients of some favors from the mem- 
bers of the party. The names of the girls were given, but we 
do not recall them. Their photos were promised them after 
time for printing has elapsed, and, hence, their names are still 
in the possession of the operators. 

This prolonged stoppage of the Special will, no doubt, under 
the circumstances, be quite an episode in the quiet life of the 
hamlet, and the genial bearing of the Knights and their Ladies 
will no doubt long linger in the memories of those that came in 
contact with the members of the Club. 

At ISTamaka, the next station, it was learned that the cattle 
herds seen grazing upon the grassy slopes, with the additional 
evidences of agricultural thrift seen particularly upon the south 
side of the railway, was another result of the proprietorship of 
the same corporation of the Canadian Land and Eanche Com- 
pany, that hold, it is said, a tract of land here of 1,600 acres 
under successful management. 

Meanwhile, the Eockies have come into full view in the back- 
ground, and all are assured that ere nightfall we shall come into 
close proximity with their majestic fronts. Strathmore and 
Cheadle, four and twelve miles respectively beyond, are passed 
by the impatient Special ; and traversing another twelve miles 
still farther on Langdon is reached, from which point the rail- 
road again descends by a gentle decline to the valley of the Bow 
River, and ten miles further on, at Shepard, the same is crossed 
by an iron bridge of substantial pattern, when the topography of 
the outlook again changes, as the foot-hills of the Rockies are 
reached. Here, again, another 10,000 acre ranch of the same 
corporation previously referred to is passed, showing like evidence 
of thrift and enterprise. 

After a climb of 400 feet above the level of Gleichen afore- 
mentioned, the Special reaches Calgary, the beautiful capital of 
the Province of Alberta, standing as the gateway to the beautiful 
Bow River, up the valley of which the railway now tal^es its 
course. Calgary having, it is said, a population of near 6,000, 



40 The Pilgrimage of 



one is prepared to learn of its relative importance as excelling 
that of any other populous centre between Manitoba and the 
Pacific coast. Its beauties have attracted the critical eye of the 
tourist, and it is thus described by one as "charmingly situated 
upon a hill-girt plateau, overlooked by the white peaks of the 
Rockies. It is the centre of the trade of the northern part 
of the great ranching countr}^ and the chief source of a supply 
for the mountain districts in the mountains beyond." 




»i/ W \l> 
o o o 



The Scun Francisco Club. 41 



CHAPTER VII. 

ON THE EISE. 

The upward grade of the railway is still maintained, as evi- 
denced by the slackened speed of the Special ; and the unimport- 
ant station of Keith is passed at the distance of nine miles, and, 
at a higher altitude of 175 feet, from Calgary, when the more 
prominent foot-hills and their terraces are traversed — Big Hill 
showing its well-rounded shoulders upon the north, and a creek 
of the same name being crossed a short distance beyond Mitford, 
hurrying away as if eager to enter the Bow near its junction 
with Jumping Pound Creek, meandering between the hills in 
its deliberate flow from the south. These increments, though 
contributing to swell the volume of the Bow below, seem not 
to appreciably rob the latter of its dashing force as it rushes 
past us in its descent from the higher levels, whither, after a 
further climb of 100 feet, Radnor station is reached ; and Morley, 
nine miles beyond, two feet still higher, or 4,000 feet above 
the sea, receives the Special fully equipped in its stalwart 
engine as a formidable steed "ready to run a race." And here 
the Bow, as a trusty leader by our side, fresh in its impetus 
from the heights, shows the pathway it has traversed and the 
means whereby the defiles of the Eockies have been pierced when, 
in the days of the dim past, the ancient glaciers plowed their 
way to the plains below, and in the furrows of their track gave 
outlet to the wasting snows and ice that lined the mountain 
flanks, that in full front for a time defied the rays of the fiery 
orb of day, while safe in their mountain retreats of the higher 
altitudes, but now coming out into the van of the solar conflict, 
the icy fetters lost their grip, and the moraines of crushed 
rock open a pathway to release the pent-up floods whereby the 
glacial descent is stayed. It is, therefore, asked in skeptic 
tones, is this a true picture, and shall mortal eye behold a 
similar scene; or is the narration but a draft upon the imagina- 



43 The Pilgrimage of 



tion of the enthusiastic tourist. We shall see, when we shall 
have explored the defiles of the upper altitudes and gazed upon 
the tracery of the contest now driven to the back-ground, but still 
in active operation under the laws of nature, that though oft- 
times in appearance slow, yet in the certainties of their product 
are exceedingly sure. 

But the actual embrace of the Rockies does not yet receive 
us, for twenty miles yet lie before us ere the Gap — the portal 
of our expectations — is reached. 

^leanwhile from the vantage ground of the relative altitude 
looking west and southward the magnificent tiers of foot-hills, 
as they rise one above another, assert their claim to attention ; 
and later, being denuded of their heretofore softened outlines, 
attained at the lower levels, they, as it were, by their approach 
to the greatly superior heights of their mountain forbears (if 
the expression may be used) become, as if in imitation, more 
and more angular ; and more boldly to demand the notice of the 
tourist, as if in rebuke for an undeserved refusal upon his part 
of previous recognition. The monopoly of a passing attention 
is not, however, long maintained, for as the Special approaches 
Kananaskis Station, the vestibule to the Gap beyond, the fever 
of excitement rises to grasp every point of observation attain- 
able in our transit, that nothing of the outlook may be lost. 
Crossing the river of the same name by a high iron bridge that 
intercepts the way to the margin of the Bow, up whose course we 
now more closely take our way, we feel a little disappointed that 
we cannot view also the Kananaskis Falls, though at the season 
of the year when the stream is swollen, the sound of the falling 
waters is said to be heard from the railway train. 

Coming at length to a nearer view of the Bow, the river and 
the mountain environment will now for some time divide our 
attention. And first, of the color of the waters of the same 
that both now and subsequently attracted our attention, and was 
the subject of inciuiry by several of our company. The prevail- 
ing hue was that of a light grey, that at first sight at the level por- 
tions seemed to be an indication of considerable depth of water; 
but noticing that the shade still prevailed when the water ever 



The San Francisco Club. 43 

and anon tumbled in wild glee over the obstructing rocks, we 
were led to inquire further the cause. We subsequently learned 
that the color was caused by the sediment held in semi-solution 
that had been abraded from the detached rocks and cliffs against 
which the ice and water had impinged in their downward flight 
from the uplands — the former with a pressure that only a 
knowledge of glacial action can appreciate. But, turning from 
the stream to its overhanging banks and beetling cliffs, as the 
road turns toward the rocky ramparts before us, we now intui- 
tively grasp the thought that the very walls themselves must give 
way to admit of our further progress, which, in reality they have 
done by the gateway know as the Gap, from which vantage point 
the farewell is taken of the plains and foot-hills below. 

We now enter the huge defile of the Eockies, with their varied 
aspects that the most graphic pen can never describe, and of 
which even the artist's brush can give but sectional views of the 
many, as the vast panorama passes, modified and heightened 
under all the accessories of light and shadow that cannot be suc- 
cessfully imitated in their entirety, even by the most gifted 
masters of the pencil or the engraver's tool. 

The ranges that alternately transport the vision are the Fair- 
holme upon the right and the Kananaskis upon the left and 
opposite side of the Bow from the railway. The first conspicu- 
ous peak of the latter range is Pigeon Mountain (but why so 
called we did not learn), which was succeeded in turn by the 
Wind and the bold peaks known as the Three Sisters. 

But now we are imder the dominant spell of the constantly 
changing pictures, as the observer thereof flits from one side to 
the other of the respective sections of the car to look upon the 
scenes revealed from either side, fearful of losing something that 
has no counterpart in the kaleidoscope of nature ; or, in the case 
of the occupants of the observation car, to take in the combined 
side views as they are absorbed in the outlines of the receding 
mountain-scape. 

And here a remarkable fact is disclosed in the intensified 
variety of the mountain contour that adds much to enhance the 
view. Take, for instance, Wind Mountains, that show upon 



44 The Pilgrimage of 



their horizon tracery a rounded, billow}^ appearance, as each 
peak obtrudes above its neighbor and a common horizontal right 
line, being separated each from each by comparatively sight de- 
pressions — one or more of said peaks being somewhat higher than 
the rest, like the billows of the ocean, and, as it were, petrifac- 
tions of the latter. This fact, too, at this juncture, seemed to 
be the dominant feature of the Fairholme range, though the 
latter is more frequently indented by deeper ravines running 
northward, and occasionally admitting of a view of their back- 
ground, which was eagerly seized upon ; when occasion offered, 
to see what was thereby revealed before the subsequent continuity 
of the range was resumed. 

In the case, however, of the Kananaskis range, the peaks are 
more distinctly individualized, the separations being ofttimes of 
deeper ravines, or even canons of frequent occurrence. Hence, 
as the latter present their front, they appear like a huge rank of 
giants, the files of which are revealed by the deeper canons, 
and present in their seried columns, their ready willingness to 
support the gallant challenge of their skirmish line. And thus 
a most attractive feature is presented by this marked isolation 
of mountain peaks, not only in the opportunity afforded of bring- 
ing into view the magnificent support of back-ground, but also 
of revealing to the eye the effects of the disintegrating agents of 
sun and frost upon the mass in corrugating into shapes of fan- 
tastic forms and multitudinous columnar symmetry the huge 
out-jutting cliffs, while at the same time reveal the constituents 
of the successive strata. 

These, under geologic investigation in this region, have al- 
ready revealed to the scientific inquirer much that, in conjunc- 
tion with the past upheaval of the subterranean forces, have 
brought to light secrets of nature that otherwise would have been 
a closed book in the bowels of the earth. Therefore, we have 
here evidences characteristic of the different systems, from the 
metamorphic rocks underlying the oldest sedimentary strata, to 
those of the carboniferous or coal-bearing that have been brought 
to light by the observant geologist. Among these have been re- 
ported the remains of the Devonian (fish-bearing) and the Cre- 



The San Francisco Club. 45 

tacean (reptilian), of which occasion to speak has already risen 
in traversing the strata of the foot-hills below. 

Recalling the fact that forces in action direct their attack 
upon the points of the least resistance with proportionate results, 
we note the parallel result upon a large scale before us. There- 
fore, under the action of the subterranean fires of the geologic 
ages the overlying strata have either been uplifted bodily for a 
space over limited portions thereof, to the preservation of 
the horizontal lines of stratification ; or, again, owing to said 
unequal resistance, have been tilted at all possible angles, and 
thereby presented different faces or lines of exposure to the ele- 
ments in their errosive action upon the softer or harder con- 
stituents of the rocky escarpment. ]\Ioreover, when enrobed in 
the snowy mantle of the upper altitudes, as it was the happy privi- 
lege of the Club to see so often consummated during the Pil- 
grimage, the excess of the grotesque was softened into more 
regular outline of form and feature that have also valualile 
accessory effects. These being thus associated in due arra}^ 
we enjoy to the full the gorgeous effects of sunshine and shadow, 
either in direct or reflected action, awaking into being the in- 
imitable visions of beauty and grandeur that flit and chase each 
other over the play-ground of slope, cliff and canon — a carnival 
of associations that to be appreciated must be seen. Of one 
resultant of these commingled lights and shadows specific notice 
here demands attention in the very prominent shade of color that, 
like unto royal purple enveloped the lower fields of observation 
as the Special reveled through the entire visual diapason of this 
locality, recording the universal verdict that no worthier drapery 
could be suggested to adorn the royal outlook. Calling attention 
to this luxuriant shadow-drapery, and discussing the particular 
shade of color, our companion bystander dissented from the 
opinion of the writer, and suggested that ashes-of-roses would 
better describe the atmospheric costume ; but the opinion was still 
maintained that royal purple best conformed to reality, and the 
sentiment of the environment. 

But here, in passing, it may be proper to state that said hue 
of shadow was not an unknown experience to the writer, for 



46 The Pilgrimage of 



when onjoying tlio rare o))portnnitv of seeing tlic sun rise from 
the suiniiiil ol' the \\\^\ Alps of Switzerhmd we were similarly 
iiiiprrsscd with a like vision — the shade of color being so marked 
and the iinj)ressi<)ii made so indelible (as entered upon our 
diarv at tlu; time) that w(! cannot but reallirm our present ver- 
dict and rdcr tlic piiciiomcnon to the same occult causes. 

During these and like observations, the luxuries of vision 
passed in rapid review as the eye leaped from crag to crag and 
( itibaltlcd peak, while ever and anon the snowy mantle that cn- 
slu'oudcd the frigid summit bathed in sunlight showed, here 
an isolated peak, there a mirrow drift, and yoncUu- the silvery 
thread of rivulet — the harbinger of the awaiting stream bellow — 
contributing all to awaken like expectations involved in the 
latcT experiences awaiting the clind)ing 8[)ecial in fulfillment of 
the assurances of the itinerary. 

While, however, multitudinous objects mark th(! way, special 
points t)f interest in the more abrupt peaks attract the notice as 
they loom up into view. Anu)ng others the very conspicuous group 
of three ])eaks known as the Three; Sisters, the highest of which 
is !),7;{l> feet above sea leavel, becouu's most prominent, both in 
tiieir close proximity to each other and in their diversity of ap- 
pearance. Standing in a line at an acute angle M'ith the rail- 
way the most remote one and most lofty, shows the greater de- 
nuding ell'ects appai'cntly of the elements u|)on its crest. Ter- 
minating in a somewhat sharper knob, as compared with the 
other two, but having a broader and outward extending base, a 
better field for the retention of the snow that ri'sted upon its 
tianks was atTorded, and, theri'fore, it was more am))ly clothed 
in this respect. 

The middle peak of the three was broader at the toj) and more 
precipitous, and for this reason was nu)re naked of snow or 
del)ris, while its flanks were also more furrowed by the courses 
of the summer rivulets and the occasional avalanche of loosened 
masses that could no longer cling to their mountain seats. 
Again, the contour of the first of the group showed its summit 
to bo even more castelated than the central Sister — its rounded 
keep-like battlements being preserved almost intact except upon 



77ie ^<m bWmnnxco (Jluh. 



47 



tlieir HJfJc in llic foreground wIkmv' a Ijn^ucli luul boon niado 
in tlio conllict with tli(; olciiKinls; and tlio dobris thorefrorn 
scattered ov(?r tlio intoreopling IxinchoK IxjIovv. TIk; broad base 
of (li<; Barne, looking eaHtward, was also deeply liurowcid upon 
its stocjp inclin(!, wbih; tbo northiirn Ijase was rnucJi inore gradual 
in its inclination, am], bonce, appeared to tb(! eye as if inviting 
tbo tourist to climb its welcome steeps (jvoii to tin; base;, if not 
to th(! summit or tb(? round(;d ke(;p-liko top aforesaid. It was, 
tborefon;, a div(!rsitiod as well as Ix.'autifiil sight to take tbo 
thro(! in range, and in inniginiition inv<!st them in their asso- 
(;iation with Wut ({ualitioK that suggested their names, and 
tin; digniti(!(J solicitude; that oa(;h seemed to entertain for tlie 
otlmr, though in silence their all'ectioji was undemonstrative!, but 
still as lasting as the pcsriods within which tlu; ohiments liad 
sought to mak(! a wid(ining breach botwoem thotn. ''I'hough the 
storms of advei'sitj may h;iv(! in later y(!ars wrinkled th(;ir brows 
with the more; p(!rc(!ptible marks of age;, yet bound togotlnir by 
a common tie, th(!y couhJ, when tlu; streams were* past and the; 
mantle of seeming icy indifferenee- was loosr-d by the genial sun, 
accept the invi<;ation to indulge; "their mountain mirtli" and 
prove by re'Sf)onsivo smile's the,' te;na(;ity of the be)nel that still 
he-Id tlieMn in e'le)se' e-inbrae-e'. Thus, we soliloejui/.e as the;ir at- 
trae:tive; fe)rms pass ejut of view anel e)tlie'r trains e)f the)uglit and 
variety of outlook suoce3e;d. 




O O 



48 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER VIII. 

CANMORE. 

Thus, leaving the Gap five miles to the rear the first lesson is 
ended, and we turn another leaf as Canmore is reached. This 
crude and apparently improvised hamlet rests upon a cove- 
environed level area in the mountains, and owes its origin and 
support, we learned, to the coal deposits that here underlie the 
surface strata, and upon test appeared to be of sufficient quantity 
and quality to attract the requisite capital for the development 
of, and the transportation to, a ready market. 

While engrossed with the view of the more majestic mountain 
fronts that stand in the background to the south of the said 
hamlet, our attention was not diverted by the appearance of the 
so-called Hoodoos or colossal forms that are said to jut upwards 
like pillars upon the lower flanks of the mountain piles that 
border the railway upon the right, and that are so named on 
account of their uncouth and weird stature, maintaining, as they 
do, their upright position notwithstanding the tendency of the 
elements to waste their sides — a result that is in a measure re- 
tarded by the refractory nature of their flinty and quartzlike 
constitution. Not having seen them, however, in our transit 
we could not note from actual observation their peculiarities 
of form and the impressions consequent thereupon. 

ANTHRACITE. 

Continuing our course up the valley of the Bow some ten 
miles farther, the next station, named Anthracite from the fact 
of the further development of coal in' the vicinity, is reached, 
though meanwhile our interest in the succession of mountain 
forms has not flagged in our passage thither from the last pre- 
viously named station, each side of the valley seeming to vie 
with the other, as to which should receive greater attention. 



The San Francisco Club. 49 

The Canadian Pacific Eailroad Company, upon whose line we 
are traveling, operates these mines — the drift for the release of 
the coal being pierced into the Fairholme range, and the pro- 
duct excavated being pronounced to be of such quality, it is 
said, as to rival that of our native State. If the sequel prove 
this to be so. then one of the great difficulties of transportation 
through these regions will be overcome by the utilization of such 
supplies of fuel for motive power as will obviate the necessity 
of recourse to distant hauls. 

Being now in the bosom of Eocky Mountain Park, we are 
already satisfied that the region is well named, and therefore are 
prepared for further evidences of that fact. Having now 
reached an altitude fifteen feet above the level of Canmore, or 
4,350 feet above the sea, we experience the exhilarating effects, 
as well as enjoy the perfect transparency of the atmosphere, as 
the succeeding mountain forms rise before us, appearing as if 
but a stone-cast distant. 

Bidding farewell for a short interval to the Bow, the railway 
now takes the course of the Cascade Eiver, although the at- 
tractiveness of the scenery thereby brought to view is not in the 
least impaired either in the aspect of the overhanging cliff of 
stupendous masonry, or in the features of the defiles that de- 
bouch their little streams into the broader volume of the receiv- 
ing stream. 

CASCADE MOUNTAIN. 

Now the huge mass of Cascade Mountain rises up as if to 
meet us, and with bold effrontery, as if to block our way. Al- 
though this was at this epoch one of our earliest experiences, yet 
it was later repeated ere we bade farewell to the Eockies and 
passed beyond the environments of such a kind, though rough, 
embrace. The intervening space, however, of five miles is 
rapidly traversed, when Banff, The "Beautiful," is announced to 
the surprised Pilgrims, the great majority of whom had for- 
gotten to note the flight of time, and their near approach to 
one of the most attractive objective points that had been speci- 
fied in the itinerary. Here a stay of forty-eight hours is set 
4 



50 The Pilgrimage of 



apart to bestow upon the scenic wonders of this region, and 
thereby add another leaf to the volume of vivid memories that 
shall long adorn the library of never-to-be-forgotten reminis- 
cences. 

BANFF, "THE BEAUTIFUL." 

Arriving at about the hour of 5 P. M., and, therefore, near the 
traditional period of dinner, many feared that but little could 
be done, before the hour of twilight would supervene to shut 
off the opportunities of much exploration. The more enthu- 
siastic were not, however, to be thus diverted for the sake of 
the menu. \\\\qu a repast that they had before known not of 
"was beckoning them away" to the village, the centres of the 
upper vale, and the contiguous points thereabout situate some 
three-fourths of a mile away. Therefore, in groups and pairs, 
all afoot, the thoroughfare was traversed ; and though a few 
made a short stop at the curio shops to survey their stock in 
trade, the most passed on to the bridge that crosses the broad 
and mirror surface of tlie Bow over which the little craft laden 
with their living freight ply to and fro during the sunny 
hours of the transfigured day. Upon a commanding terrace 
elevation at the foot of Sulphur ilountain, upon the opposite 
side of the Bow, near the terminus of the said bridge, is the 
Sanitarium Hotel, a quite imposing building, capable of ac- 
commodating a hundred and more guests at a time. As the 
writer did not explore its apartments, we cannot speak from 
personal inspection of its appliances that a modern public de- 
mands in such institutions; but knowing of the near proximity 
of the hot springs, for which the locality is celebrated, and 
the verdict of those that did inspect the same, we were satisfied 
that they were first class, and, hence, during the Summer and 
earlier Fall are well patronized. From information received 
from ]\[r. Douglas, the superintendent of the park, we learned 
that of the number of visitors for the year of the last published 
record, that had been made, there had been entertained at the 
said Sanitarium something in excess of 3,000 visitors, of whom 
more than one-third were from the United States, about one- 



The San Francisco Club. 51 

tenth from England, but that the majority were from the East- 
ern Canadian Provinces. Also, that the average maximum 
temperature for the month of June of the record was, at 6 A. M., 
65.1 degrees, and at 6 P. M., 69.5 degrees, and, for the month 
of July of the previous year at the same hours, respectively, 62.4 
degrees and 6T.7 degrees. Also, the lowest temperature at the 
same hours in the former month, 31.7 degrees and 33.5 degrees, 
and of the latter month 34.6 degrees and 36.5 degrees. It is, 
therefore, seen that these facts becoming known to the tourists 
fleeing from the high temperatures of the States and elsewhere, 
must be convincing, and, therefore, contributing to swell the 
migrations thitherward. 

Leaving, then, the museum of the gentlemanly superintendent, 
loitering by the way to gaze ever and anon at the lofty environing 
mountains, the pioneers of the aforesaid impatient vanguard re- 
turned to the Special fully resolved to improve to the fullest ex- 
tent the opportunities of the morrow. The different calls to 
dinner having been heeded, the social instincts of the different 
sections having been indulged for a time, and the porters having 
been requisitioned, the weary Pulgrims sought their encurtained 
bunks to recuperate for the contemplated peregrinations of the 
coming day. 




4/ \i> 

o o o 



53 The Pilgnmage of 



CHAPTER IX. 

IMPROVISED EXCURSIONS. 

The iiiorning of the 23d was greeted under the most favorable 
weather auspices; and breakfast being despatched, busy brains 
were set to work to map out a da/s itinerary according to the 
impulses or plans of those that severally affiliated. Hence, some 
to boating on the Bow, others by seated two-horse carry-alls, by 
single teams, or by saddle went their several ways — some to the 
Hot Spring baths and contiguous cave upon the roadway, along 
the flanks of Sulphur Mountain; others to the Hot Springs 
Hotel, others to the incline encircling tunnel, and others to 
Buffalo Park — all resolved to visit each in turn, but in such 
order as taste might decide. It was, therefore, a matter of 
much interest to hear the representatives of each group em- 
phasize what features of the day seemed most likely to monop- 
olize attention, and from what points of view. We, therefore, 
assayed to follow the course of a somewhat large group of pe- 
destrians that started out under the inspiration of the fresh 
morning air to explore the course of the Bow, as it winds its 
way from the village toward the Canadian Pacific Railroad 
Hotel, and as far as the point at which the river, by an abrupt 
turn from northeast to southeast; and at which point, ere the 
same is reached, the impulsive stream appears as if about to 
be lost to the eye for a period by an apparent bulwark of in- 
tercepting mountains. To linger awhile, however, in our ex- 
plorations, it is in order to say that at the place where we first 
reached the banks of the Bow, its breadth does not exceed fifty 
feet : and following in a channel of about the same depth from 
the embankment to the surface of the water, the surprise at the 
rapidity and volume of what is now an enraged torrent is evident 
upon all faces, while the facilities from the bridle paths that 
wind in and out along the entire escarpment to points advan- 
tageous to view the phases of the rushing flood, add, but to pro- 



The San Francisco Club. 53 

long the enjoyment that does not for a moment clog, since new 
features succeed each other in rapid succession, as we trace our 
way to the aforementioned objective point. 

To relieve some of the pedestrians that are a little short of 
breath from the avoirdupois that they have to carry, or that 
have not been accustomed from habit to follow such trails, that 
at certain points are quite precipitous, seats are located at con- 
venient intervals for short rests. This, of course, applied more 
particularly to the puissant Sir Knights, since it was found that 
some of the more ambitious of their Ladies could trip along as 
if these declivities were mere mole-hills, and, indeed, upon an 
average they compared Avell in their triiimphs over the asperities 
of the way. Hence, it was, that both Knight and Lady, from 
these points of observation, united in their expressions of pleas- 
ure at the freaks of the mad-cap torrent, now leaping as if in 
childish glee over the obstructions that predominated in the long 
incline that only terminated at the brink of the Falls below. 
Meanwhile, writhing and foaming, dancing and swirling, as the 
mood prevailed, and then, at length, as if wrought up to com- 
bative heat the seething flood dashed in sheer desperation against 
the bare walls of the margin that, in response, as it were, still 
further encroached upon the river-bed until a point of contrac- 
tion was reached of not more than twenty feet in breadth of 
passage, when, in turn, the accumulated waters rush to the 
contest and in frothy threatenings speed through, when victory 
is decided in favor of the coctesting waters, a broader front 
being then attained by which the final plunge is made over the 
precipice of the Falls — the snowy whiteness of the surface having 
been maintained from the commencement of the rapids tmtil the 
strife has ceased at the base of the same, when the now quiet 
waters reassume their wonted cerulean hue in forgiving forget- 
fulness, as it were, of the late unpleasantness, that has now 
eventuated in giving a broader course to the late pent-up stream 
by the withdrawals of the embankments to a position farther 
removed, a breadth of eighty feet being now attained as the 
placid waters move onward to join their expectant confluent 
below. 



54 The Pilgrimage of 



EEMmiSCENT. 

Thus entertained by the beautiful picture of the snowy- 
mantled waters in their descent to their final plunge, memory 
is active to parallel the experience, when, in an instant, we 
recall the rapids of Niagara, on the margin of the Cataract 
House of that city, though it is admitted that the volume of 
water in the latter case is of much greater mass and momentum. 
Then, too, the contrast with the mottled colors of the contiguous 
rocks of the opposite embankment covered with evergreen trees 
above the line of high water present a relief that but heightens 
the picture. Thus, noting these and other features of the en- 
vironment, the sightseers passed down the rapidly declining 
margin to the point of junction of the Bow with the Spray. 
Looking now upon the latter for the first time, as it debouches 
from its contracted bed, we are led to wonder, as we look upon 
the huge smooth-faced cliff that would seem to obstruct its 
natural course, and by its opposition like a massive shield to 
be interposed to prevent further passage, as if such obstruction 
was an evidence of its conflicts of late encountered in the upper 
heights? We could not so affirm, though reluctant not to give 
the benefit of a doubt. 

Standing now upon the level of the surface of the combined 
streams, the gaze of all is directed down the course thereof, 
when, lo, a scene opens up for which we were unprepared; the 
same having been shut out heretofore to view by the southern 
projection of the shoulders of Tunnel Mountain, now at our 
left, and, hence, no longer an obstruction to hide the same as 
it now burst upon us as a most enrapturing vision. As the said 
scene, however, can be seen at better advantage from the higher 
ground of the Hot Springs Hotel, the same will be passed over 
for the present, and the surroundings of the lower level be 
viewed more in detail. Loitering, then, for a while longer 
upon the delta thickly strewn with the rounded remnants of the 
boulders of earlier periods as they came in contact with each 
other by the impact of the floods and glacial hammers of that 
day, we read in miniature the lines of stratification, or the 
cleavage of abraded fragments, the characteristics of the orig- 



The San Francisco Club. 



inals that were brought to birth in the creative epochs of the 
geologic world, and are now simply the evidences in their 
coarser state of their forbears, that have long since entered into 
the body of the alluvium and are there the elements essential 
to the products of the soil of to-day — evidences these of processes 
that, in the moraines yet to be explored in the glacial regions, 
can now be seen in active operation by the inquisitive tourist. 

HOT SPRINGS HOTEL. 

The building of the Hot Springs Hotel being conspicuously 
seen upon the heights at an altitude of at least 500 feet, the 
suggestion was unanimous that the same should be made our 
next objective point, and that, too, by the route the most direct 
that could be utilized. Some following this suggestion from its 
first mention; and others, taking first a somewhat circuitous 
path along the contiguous bank of the Spray for a short dis- 
tance, to obtain some further knowledge of the same, reached in 
brief time the common roadway that passes around the base of 
the spur upon wliich the hotel is built — the road-bed here being 
raised above the cove of the delta and guarded upon the side 
opposite to the cliff of said spur by a continuous balustrade- 
like fence for the distance probably of the eighth of a mile, 
thereby suggested a retreat, that when embowered by the luxuri- 
ant foliage of the overhanging trees during the warmer days of 
midsummer, must have been most enjoyable. 

But, hurrying on, the latter explorers soon came in sight of 
those that had preceded, and found the same infatuated by the 
short cuts, struggling up the imperfect trail of a steep incline, 
with many a laggard halting, ever and anon to recover wind and 
muscle for further climbs, that seemed for the time as almost of 
chronic frequency. The writer and his companion having, how- 
ever, learned the trick of war, that it is always best to flank a 
difi&culty rather than meet it vis-a-vis, suspected that a detour 
might be made, and vet not be compelled to follow the longer 
one of the traveled route. The latter did so; and as a result 
reached the brow of the Hotel site unimpaired, and ready to 
grasp the attainable at nearly the same time that the said pant- 



56 The Pilgrimage of 



ing contingent ascended the short flight of steps leading to 
the veranda of the hotel. Having already taken in the possi- 
bilities of the outlook, the impulse of the majority was to repair 
first to the extension of the said veranda that, terminated by the 
descent therefrom of a few steps in a commodious and well- 
seated pavilion, over-looking the very range of the valley of the 
combined Bow and Spray whose delta we had left but a short 
time before. Our surmise of an enhanced view therefrom of 
what we had but cursorily gazed upon below was now fully 
realized. To the question universally endorsed — what vision 
more entrancing can be imagined than the one spread out before 
us — we answered not, but expatiating upon the luxury of sense, 
we became fully conscious that no word of picture could ever 
embody a faithful transcript thereof, and, hence, that it would be 
rash to attempt it. 

MOUNT BUNDLE. 

Upon the right stands Mt. Eundle, whose highest peak reaches 
an altitude of 9,665 feet; and upon its hither slopes shows, as 
compared with others of even less height, a someM'hat better 
clothing of evergreens, though here and there great rifts ap- 
pear that cannot be so softened. Looking westward, some four 
peaks appear in succession, Jutting above the common ridge of 
more remote ones all of which reminds us of the huge teeth of 
a circular saw, the rounded intervals between being for the most 
part regular in contour, but here and there are shown huge seams 
and scars revealing disintegrations under natural conditions, that 
sooner or later will level the whole as the result of the conflict 
still waging. The nearer peak is more dome-like in its higher 
and remote portions, while it gradually inclines in the left fore- 
ground toward the valley of observation — the extreme terminus 
being almost perpendicular, and in lines reminding one of a 
colossal face looking across the valley at the opposite face of 
Tunnel Mountain, now upon our left. The latter, though not 
so elevated, and more regular in its eastern elongation, is also 
precipitous upon its western face, opposing that of Eundle. This 
almost duplication of face suggests the possibility, that at one 



The San Francisco Club. 57 

time in the remote past the entire valley was submerged, but 
that, by come terrific cataclysm of nature, the defying escarp- 
ment was torn asunder, and the pent-up waters sent upon their 
devastating course to the overthrow or denudation of the oppos- 
ing mountain obstructions in the line of descent. 

THE BACKGEOUND. 

But not long does the eye rest upon these features of the com- 
parative foreground, but reveling in the vistas beyond, further 
peaks to the right of us and confronting peaks to the left of us, 
open up a still more distance transvere range — all standing on 
guard, like stupendous fortresses prepared to enfilade all opposi- 
tion ; while the direct menace of the unbroken range in the back- 
ground looms up as the centre or final support, defiant of 

"The wreck of matter, and the crush of worlds." 

When, also, it is remembered that this association of the entire 
roster, of defence or castle of peace, citadel and battlement, dome 
and bastion, turret and fissure are seen enrobed in garbs of in- 
describable attractiveness, 'neath a cloudless sky, glittering in 
the sheen of a resplendent sun enforced by the most perfect 
atmospheric conditions, one may well be excused for indulgence 
in most extravagant expressions of appreciation and grateful 
sense of obligation for the benisons of such a feast of vision. 
'No defence, therefore, is needed that all reluctantly turn away 
from further indulgence, even though time flies and calls else- 
where are imperative. 

Being now, however, in close touch with the apparently ele- 
gant and commodious building of the said hotel, all felt a desire 
to enter the same and see at least some of its appointments, that 
we felt assured from the wealth of architectural outward display 
must be equaled by the elegance within. We were not disap- 
pointed from our observations as afforded by a stroll througli 
the spacious reception rooms, that revealed the abundance and 
good taste of the furnishings in accord with the demands of such 
patrons as that here abide during the period of open house — the 
roster showing for the last year of record 3,890 guests, not only 



58 The PUgrlmage of 



from the Provinces but for the States and foreign lands. More- 
over, the atmosphere of gentility that prevailed, and the readi- 
ness of employes of all grades to give information, and render 
desired service in conducting through the apartments, even to 
the running of the elevators at the request of those that wished 
to visit the upper stories was patent to all. We could, therefore, 
but readily infer, that the lavish expenditure of capital evidenced 
upon all sides, demonstrated the determination of the manage- 
ment to make the locality a place of permanent resort that in 
time must rival the choice retreats of foreign lands. While some 
of the ladies and their partners still lingered to examine the 
curios treasured for that purpose, or for sale; others perambu- 
lated the verandas upon the north side of the building — most 
convenient points of observation to take in at full view the im- 
posing front of 

SULPHUR MOUNTAIN", 

with whose hot spring founts the hotel is connected by ample 
piping — the chief springs being located some 800 feet above the 
road level. 




o o o 



The Som Francisco Club. 59 



CHAPTER X. 

MODES OP TRANSPORTATION. 

We note also tlie rneanfi of transportation to the heights 
in the form of vehicles and saddled horses, with their guides 
standing ready for hire in the hotel court, as this is the 
chief initial point f(M- the idoh; permanent patrons to take 
for their day's outing. After taking in at a hroad view, the 
pyramidal form of the mountain and noting the marked regu- 
larity with which the natural parallelism of the strata com- 
posing the rocky structure has been preserved, notwithstanding 
the agency of upheaval, by which at an angle of 45 degrees the 
dip of the same has been attained, our attention was further ar- 
rested l)y further pai'ticulars that came within the range of our 
vision. Other associations based thereupon will be mentioned 
later as, in turn, they come under a more minute observation. 
Lifting our gaze to the summit of Sulphur Mountain we note the 
upper portions of a building perched upon its highest point that 
attracts our notice; and upon inquiry we learn that the same is 
the Observatory that there was erected by the Provincial Govern- 
inent for scientific purposes. The building is a stone structure, 
14x18 feet in dimensions, and surmounted by a 26-foot tower. 
The site of the same is 7,455 feet above the sea level and 2,946 
feet above the level of the railway bed. The Observatory was 
dedicated and formally opened August 13, 1903, hy Masonic cere- 
monials at a communication of the three Masonic Lodges, "Cas- 
cade," "Perfection" and "Bow River," convened for that pur- 
pose, and the fact inscribed upon a suitable tablet. The Minutes 
of the said Lodges giving the details would, no doubt, be most 
interesting even to the uninitiated, but want of time prevented 
further quest in this direction. 

This Observatory, being erected as already stated, for the 
recording of scientific data, the same is connected by electric 
cable with the Government Museum at Banff, under the charge 



60 The Pilgrimage of 



of Mr. Howard Douglas, who is also the superintendent of the 
park (to which we have before referred), and by this means the 
velocity and current-direction of the wind, with the temperature 
at fixed hours during the da}^ is automatically registered. Upon 
this data further meteorological inferences are based, and, hence, 
the value of the institution is likely to be permanently estab- 
lished. 

Also that the general public may have the benefit of the mag- 
niticent prospect there afforded, a bridle path has been also 
constructed, of a breadth varying from six to eight feet, and 
is reported to be very compact and of easy ascent — the grade 
being one foot in six, and the distance by the circuit of loops 
about three and three-fourths miles from the railway at our feet. 
We were led to inquire particularly concerning these facilities, 
and tlierefore, it was with much regret that we had to deny our- 
selves a trip to the summit, there being so much yet of interest to 
visit at the lower levels, that can be surveyed within the time still 
at our disposal, but that would otherwise have to be neglected. 
Therefore, after a final circuit of the exterior of the hotel, and 
an examination of its extensive and elaborate bath accommoda- 
tions, with an inspection of the approaches to the court, the 
com])any started upon their return to Banff. Taking the easy 
incline of the roadway to the village, that we might further ex- 
plore immediate localities, arrangements were there made with- 
out loss of time, partly by teams there in waiting and some by 
foot ; as the interval to be traversed was but a trifle, the combined 
cavalcade started to their next objective point — that of the upper 
Sulphur Springs of the Cave and the Basin. These are situated 
about a mile from the bridge crossing the Bow, and are reached 
by a semi-macadamized road of easy level and gradual incline, 
and, therefore, readily, accessible by the pedestrians. The Cave 
and Basin are but a short distance apart, and are both located in 
the rear of neatly-built cottages, to which access is allowed free 
of charge — the fee for the benefit of a bath being twenty-five 
cents. 



The San Francisco Club. 61 

CAVE AND BASIN. 

The cottage of the Cave is of Swiss pattern, with gable to the 
front, and is mounted upon a stone-protected embankment. 
The entrance to the Cave is through the cottage, from the rear 
end of which a tunnel is pierced to the natural cave of the hot 
spring. The guide in charge of the same, being supplied with 
a torch, leads the way through the tunnel for a distance of 
probably fifty feet. This discovery of the cave and its enclosed 
pool of hot water is said to have been made by the engineers 
that projected the route of the railway through the valley, from 
the fact that their attention Avas attracted by what appeared 
to be a column of smoke arising from a special point for a 
number of days in succession, and they were led to explore the 
cause of fhe same. 

Eeaching the place of issue, they discovered an orifice in 
the rocks of about two feet in diameter; and that what had 
appeared as smoke was really vapor condensed by the air into 
a smoke-like cloud, and that the same was strongly impreg- 
nated by sulphur fumes. Curious to know further of the mys- 
teries of the source, it was determined to lower one of their 
number through the orifice by means of a rope, and thus explore 
what could be reached by this means. The result was the pool 
of hot water before us, though the edges are now somewhat pro- 
tected upon the side of entrance to the cave by a concrete es- 
carpment and a narrow platform of observation for the benefit 
of visitors. We were informed 1)y the keeper and guide, Mr. Gal- 
letly, that the average temperature of the water is 114 degrees, 
and, hence, is not too warm for bathing purposes. The keeper, 
in relating the above concerning the discovery of the cave by 
the said mode of descent, said that certain women had boasted 
that they had descended from the opening at the top by the 
rope before the tunnel was opened ; but that he (the keeper) was 
led to doubt their declarations for the reason, if no other, that 
these very persons were so timid that they could hardly be in- 
duced to approach the brink of the pool for fear that something 
dreadful might happen to them. It happened, however, that 
there were several ladies that had joined the party, who were 



(52 The Pilgrimage of 



strangers to us ; and overhearing this expression of doubt by the 
speaker, one of them spoke up, and endorsed the veracity of the 
accused ladies. The keeper was still unconvinced, and repartees 
were in order on both sides. The latter being a venerable 
Scotchman, was, like his race, not likely to change his opinion, 
since, like Goldsmith's village schoolmaster, e'en 

"Though vanquished, he could argue still." 

Later, the said lady disputant told one of our company that 
she had herself descended the rope as had others. Learning, 
subsequently, that the said lady was the wife of the Vice-Presi- 
dent of the Commission having official charge of the Park under 
the Government, it was anticipated by some of the visitors that 
the keeper would be asked to resign. We took no part in the 
"scrap," and, hence, express no opinion pro or con of the keep- 
er's want of gallantry. 

The appearance of the cave suggests the inside of a Jug, 
which it much resembles in contour, though its walls in places 
are more or less incrusted with shallow stalactitic formations of 
sulphur and carbonate of lime, and among these the keeper 
pointed out faintly traced profiles of faces, a lion, an eagle, etc., 
though under the uncertain light we found it necessary to 
imagine more than we were willing to confidently admit. 

From the character of the incrustations, it is evident that 
the largest percentage of mineral in solution in the water is in 
the form of sulphuric acid and lime; and it is said that an 
analysis has disclosed that 75 per cent, of these elements have 
been tested, besides showing decided traces of magnesia and 
silica, and less of soda and chlorine, with a still less trace of 
lithium. Of the last-named chemical constituent one authority 
has stated that the quantity in solution is considerably in excess 
of many samples of lithia waters that are on sale in the East. 

Having at length exhausted the loquacity of the keeper, the 
company next visited the cottage of the Basin, and thence went 
out to the environs of the bathing pool. This, we found, to be 
most substantially surrounded by a parapet of concrete pro- 



The San Francisco Club. 63 

jecting about a foot above the side-walk — the bottom also being 
similarly protected to avoid leakage or injury to the feet of the 
bathers. The pool is being constantly supplied by piping from 
the Cave and other springs more recently discovered from points 
farther up the mountain, so that there is no lack of supply — 
the waste being constantly renewed. As we approached we were 
forcibly reminded of the gambols of the inmates of some of our 
seal pools of our eastern zoo gardens, from the appearance of 
the black skins of the bathers that ever and anon emerged from 
the surface of the water after diving from the spring-boards 
of the parapet of the pool — the said divers being the porters 
of our Special that were having a holiday also, as well as the 
Sir K's and their Ladies, and as well pleased as the latter 
to enjoy the diversions of the locality, and thus luxuriate in 
the tepid waters, with as high a degree of satisfaction as was 
purchasable by the millionaires that here do ofttimes resort. 
We did not envy them, though personally we did not participate 
in like ablutions. 




o o 



64 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XL 

RETRACING STEPS. 

Again the hour reminds us that we must not longer linger 
here, but away on further explorations. Retracing, therefore, 
our course to the village and station, and partaking of a hasty 
lunch, we make further conveyance arrangements, and start 
upon the ascent of the "Cork-Screw," as the spiral encircling the 
Tunnel ]\Iountain is called. This mountain is so named, as 
we were informed by our driver, from the fact that when the 
railway was first laid out, it was thought that it would be neces- 
sary to tunnel the same in a line more direct to the Banff Sta- 
tion. Later, however, it was decided to make a long detour of 
some five miles around the mountain toward the east from 
the point visible at the upper end of the valley of the Bow, as 
seen from the pavilion of the Hot Springs Hotel before spoken 
of — the said detour being made to pass, as now, the Buffalo 
Corrall, and thus compensate by this course in securing the mag- 
nificent scenery now brought to view that otherwise would have 
been lost to tourists in transit to Banff. To return to our 
point of ascent, we were glad to notice that the road-bed was 
in such good condition under the constant supervision of ap- 
pointees of the government — the grades being easy and the 
surface as exempt as possible from roughness. Taking the up- 
ward incline upon the side facing the village we were soon above 
the hummocks of the lower levels and the tops of the trees 
springing therefrom ; and, as provided for by the engineers of 
the road, we found at convenient intervals level plateaus or 
points of observation extending outward from the roadside 
toward the valley of Banff, that the occupants of vehicles or 
pedestrians might walk out upon, and others be enabled to 
take in the prospect of the valley below and the broad expanse 
of the mountains, including the localities upon the opposite 
side that we had visited earlier in the day. Stopping for a 



The San Francisco Club. 65 

sufficient pause upon one of the best of these plateaus, we de- 
termined to note more particularly what the outlook afforded. 
Here, again, we felt that the artist should have made his abode 
for awhile and subsidized his skill to embody as nearly as pos- 
sible upon his canvas the ravishing scene. We can, however, 
in our attempt to fix as helps to the memory, mention simply 
the succession of peaks commencing at our right that were as- 
sociated with our first approach to the valley upon the previous 
evening. To the east we have the Inglismaldie, which is, per- 
haps, seen at better advantage as regards its mass from the 
point of observation of the Hot Springs Hotel pavilion and the 
last reverse curve around the extreme point of our present route 
to the west, but is mentioned here to keep up the continuity 
of our present background of observation. It is, therefore, dis- 
closed as a snow-crowned mass rising to the height of 9,785 
feet, and appearing like the central round tower of some ap- 
parently inaccessible citadel. Its nearest neighbor to the south- 
east is the precipitous cone of Peechee, named, it is said, after a 
noted Indian chief, as also in the case of Assiniboine, lying to 
the south of Banff and not to be seen from this point, though 
attaining the lofty height of 11,860 feet, and yet has been 
ascended, as has also all the other peaks within our present 
range of vision. 

THE CASCADE MOUNTAIN. 

The huge mountain immediately in our front to the north is 
Cascade, and is said to derive its name from the huge cascade 
that, at certain periods earlier in the season, from the melting 
snows of its loftier heights pour down its southern flanks. 
Our first view of it was as we approached Banff, near the 
station of Anthracite. As seen from the latter point of view 
it appears like an immense broad-based cone, betokening solidity, 
with its concentric curves of strata reaching their lowest areas 
in an axis central with the summit which appears like the 
broken crater of an extinct volcano, that suggests the thought 
of the possibility that the whole mass had originally been 
elevated in a body, and subsequently its central support having 
5 



66 The Pilgninage of 



been removed the superincumbent section had subsided, and 
that so gradually that the strata had dropped by a regular 
gradation and, hence, the uninterrupted parallelism of the said 
curvature. From our present point, however, the crater-like 
top is but diminutive and unbroken upon its rim, while the 
lines against the sky descend in more wavy lines than upon its 
eastern slope. The face, however, now opposite to us is seamed 
upon its upper section into three huge gullies that converge 
into one vast central one at a point about midway to the top; 
and thus supplies the bed for the cascade before mentioned, 
but now the apparent channel whose bottom is of a comminuted 
sediment of glistening whiteness that, with but little effort of the 
imagination, can easily be transmuted into a congealed flood of 
glacial ice and its attendant phenomena. vSuch, indeed, is its 
superincumbent burden during the vernal months and approach- 
ing solstitial period ere the solor rays liquify the mass and 
gravity urges the combined thousand streamlets into one thunder- 
ing torrent as it hurried away to swell the volume of the re- 
ceiving Bow. While, then, this is the reality of the periods 
cited, the later months give rest to the slumbering forces that 
seemingly are now held in reserve until old Boreas, rushing 
down from tlie Xorth again, assumes his sway. Being the 
loftiest peak of the range, 9,825 feet in altitude, it may well 
boast its athletic proportions, as, imclothed by vegetation, it 
stands out in its bare brawn, and as its rocky muscles disclose 
its wrestling thews sloping away by regular gradations to a 
common line of juncture, we may well accept its defiance satis- 
fied not to dispute its pre-eminence, but rather rejoice in its 
cxhilntion of strength. And yet its prowess has been conquered 
by man, its summit having been scaled and its geological 
secrets brought to light by the exposure to view of its fossil 
remains, some of which have been gathered and are now treas- 
ured among the curiosities of the local museums. Their history 
will, no doubt, be spread upon the page of some reviewer at 
no distant day, in further revelation of the aeons of long ago. 

Xext in order comes the Stony Squaw Mountain, with its 
harsh name, the origin of which we did not learn, which is 



The San Francisco Club. 67 



separated from Cascade Mountain by Forty-Mile Creek, and 
which, from the fact of its being mostly tree-covered, possesses 
no particular feature of attraction, except as a matter of contrast 
to its naked neighbor at its left ; and for its privilege of having 
its foot laved by the gentle waters of the vermilion lakes that 
are the expansion of the Eiver Bow, that here seems languidly 
to rest ere aroused to take its plunge down the valley below, 
as already recorded, toward its junction with the Spray. 

It is here that the devotees of rod and line are said to find 
rarest sport, or the wielder of the oar find wonted exercise, paus- 
ing ever and anon to gaze upon the mirrored surface of the 
lake that duplicates the shadowy outlines of the environing 
mountains, as they are faithfully defined thereon — a fact that 
can be readily verified by simply lifting ones eyes aloft to the 
huge originals. 

As the writer, however, did not personally enjoy these latter 
experiences, we could only accept Avhat the more sportsman-like 
gentry of our company could relate, and, therefore, to them the 
more inquisitive will have to appeal to complete in a well- 
rounded whole the combined reminiscences of the day. 

FLANKS OF TUNNEL MOUNTAIN. 

After this long digression, let us return to our plateau of ob- 
servation upon the flanks of Tunnel Mountain, from whence 
we were betrayed into an interruption of our ascent in doubling 
its precipitous sides, our baitings at successive places of like 
observation, and repetitious of like experiences in their results 
of intensifying the same, we continue to ascend to the extreme 
western spur of the summit overlooking the aforesaid valley of 
the combined Bow and Spray, as already adverted to, whence 
we are again privileged to view the panorama of the morning 
and at a much higher elevation. It had, however, lost none 
of its attractiveness, but Avas rather supplemented by the ad- 
vantage of another point of view, with all the favorable results 
thereof, as already stated in their reinforcement of the memory. 

Turning this point of farthest remove, we now make a slight 
descent, then another detour around a projecting spur into a 



68 The Pilgrimage of 



considerable tree growth; then again an ascent of loop, to again 
descend upon the eastern flank preparatory to a series of de- 
scents and loops into the valley of original departure in the 
vicinity of the Buffalo Corral, with its enclosed area of 800 acres 
that the government has set apart under strict police surveillance 
as a preserve of the buffalo and other animals indigenous to this 
latitude and locality in the days before the avarice of the hunts- 
man sought to depopulate these wilds. 

BUFFALO COERAL. 

Reaching the entrance to the park, and after entering the high- 
wired enclosure, we passed a doe and two fawns quietly grazing 
in an open space, that stopped but long enough to gaze at us, 
as if aware that we were harmless ; and, moving rapidly forward 
after a matter of a few minutes, we arrive at the cages of the 
wolf, the red foxes and the coyotes for a short inspection, and 
then pass on to the centre of interest, viz, the bison group. 
These were soon found in a separate enclosure, fenced off to 
restrict their movements from encroachment upon those parts 
that are traversed by tourists, and from the other animals that 
move about at will in their own enclosures. The overseers are 
alwa3's on hand when tourists are in evidence, and from them 
we learned the variable moods of the buffalo that, in a measure, 
cannot be anticipated, they appearing at one time to be gentle 
and approachable and then again so treacherous that near con- 
tact at all times is to be prudently avoided. We counted in 
the herd some forty-eight, mostly adults, with a considerable 
of a minority of yearlings and calves moving around freely 
among the rest. At times the keepers said that the bulls have 
pitched battles among themselves, and they fight very viciously 
and even to the death if they are not separated. From what we 
saw we could not but conclude that the effort upon the part of 
the provincial government to prevent the extinction of the bison 
will be successful, said animal having during the past score of 
years entirely disappeared from the prairies and plains, both of 
the States and the Provinces. It is, therefore, to be hoped that 
the experiment made and the cost already incurred will, as 



The Sati Frwnclsco Club. 69 



time advances more rapidly enlarge the herd by natural in- 
crease, and thus perhaps afford opportunity to others interested 
in propagating this aboriginal animal to secure a nucleus from 
this attempt to develop a like enterprise in other localities, to 
the permanent perpetuation of a species that arc now rarely seen 
even in zoological gardens by the masses of the people. 

But the sun has now passed behind the great Cascade, and 
only the opposite heights retain his beams, and we, therefore, are 
reminded that the hour is at hand when we must return to the 
Special. So, driving along leisurely to said objective point the 
Knights and their Ladies are seen to converge thitherward from 
all directions, and soon the "first call to dinner" is proclaimed; 
while belated ones continue to join the crowd of those on the 
waiting list, content to take a short respite of rest before attack- 
ing the bill of fare that a responsive appetite will find no further 
appetizer necessary from an offensive standpoint. 

The day has been a full one, and many, now that dinner is 
despatched, after a trip to the smoking room, or a quiet sociable, 
early seek their couches in complacent moods — the porters 
having already anticipated orders. Silence soon settled down 
upon the Special, after a short palaver behind the curtains as 
to what had become of their pajamas — a tight fit being some- 
times supervening or the loose robe disclosing an unusual liberty 
of limb ere the final adjustments are consummated and the pillow 
finally brought into requisition. 




o o o 



70 21ie Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XII. 

THE ADIEU TO BANFF. 

The coming morn of August 24th was greeted almost before 
we were aware, when, with recuperated strength and renewed 
desire, the demands of the itinerary are heeded, and the Special 
takes another flight to other fields yet to be surveyed. The train, 
as it leaves Banff, passes between the base of the spur of Mt. 
Bundle, upon which the Hot Springs Hotel is built, and the 
foot of Sulphur. We next traverse a thickly-wooded section 
and by the margin of shallow lakes, entangled with accumula- 
tions of underbrush, and suggesting nothing of special interest. 
But not long are we thus imprisoned, but we soon pass out onto 
solid ground, and a somewhat broader outlook. Leaving the 
Bourgeau Eange oil' at the south, whose highest peak visible ia 
9,350 feet in altitude, we soon are greeted upon the right 
by the strikingly broad base and bold shouldered peak of Mt. 
Massive, the first out-cropping of the Sawback Eange that will 
now for awhile occupy our attention. Both before reaching Mt. 
Massive, through a depression Ijetween the same and the north- 
ern flanks of Sulphur Mountain, and after passing the same, the 
lofty pinnacle of Mt. Edith, 9,154 feet high, is seen in its inac- 
cessible grandeur. Its walls upon the one side are almost per- 
pendicular, while upon the other a little less precipitous shoulder 
suggests the ])ossibility of an ascent by an intrepid and experi- 
enced climber. Even during the deepest falls of the winter, it 
is said that the snow does not cling to its precipitous sides, but 
pinnacle like, its topmost peak pierces the blue empyrean as if 
unwilling that its naked sides should muffle the shrieking blast 
that sweeps its face — a fit substitute for cathedral chimes. 

Xow turning to the left we ol)served in the distance numer- 
ous peaks unnamed as the mark of the line of the western 
horizon. Three more conspicuous ones, however, in the nearer 
foreground, command the attention, the first of an altitude of 



The San Francisco Club. 71 

8,500 feet, the second 9,750 feet and the third 9,630 feet, consti- 
tute the Pilot group, so called because its highest peak has long 
been recognized as a land-mark that may be seen at a great dis- 
tance in the open from many directions. The exposed cliffs of 
all the mountains bordering our course have now assumed a 
yellowish-brown tinge that, in the evident admixture of clay and 
iron pyrites and exposure to the atmosphere, have assumed this 
color, and, hence, explains the easy erosion of the mountain 
walls by the elements, and the castellated forms separated by 
vertical grooves or natural lines of cleavage. Hence, this type 
of nature's architecture seems to prevail in association with other 
varieties of form and figure as the freaks of the storm agencies 
would have them be. They are not of a kind as to substratum 
in which one would expect to find cavernous formations, and 
yet in apparent defiance of the claims of the calcareous rocks to 
such a distinction, our attention was arrested by the appearance 
of what is named "Hole-in-the-wall" — an opening upon the face 
of a perpendicular cliff at a point 1,500 feet above the level of the 
railway, with no apparent means of ascent thereto. It has, 
however, been explored and was found to be a chamber 16 feet 
wide, 12 feet from floor to ceiling and at its minor end, 160 
feet from its entrance, terminating in a chimney-like opening 
extending to the open air above, at the top of the mountain. 
This fact may reveal the method of entrance to the cave, though 
of this we were not informed. 

Until this point has been reached the woodland margin skirt- 
ing the Bow, that winds, doubles and turns in and out, in sup- 
port of its reputation, upon our left has somewhat obstructed 
our view, except at stated intervals in that direction, but now ad- 
hering to a bed somewhat more distantly removed, therefore, 
affords more frequent views of the mountainous background 
upon that side. As we now, however, approach the bounds of 

THE GOVERNMENT PAEK. 

upon whose domain we have expatiated during the past forty- 
eight hours, the outlook broadens towards the west, our course 
still continuing a little west of north since leaving the vi- 



73 The Pilgrimage of 



ciiiity of Mt. Massive, we now reach Castle Station, or siding, 
so named from the mountain of that name that now looms 
to a height of 9,500 feet a short distance beyond at our right. 
We are soon, however, comparatively near its base and skirt 
the same for a distance of eight miles, viewing at will its 
bald face, a sheer precipice rising 5,000 feet above our level 
at an average distance, we estimate by the naked eye, of about 
one-half mile, conscious however of the deception of distances 
in this most perfect transparency of atmosphere, and yet 
aware that we are far enough removed to view the engaging 
facades in the greatest perfection. And we may add that there 
was almost a fascination in the succession of phases that it 
presents to the eye — the features being predominant that give 
the name to the long and almost unbroken ledge that reveals 
every variety of defense and ornament that characterized the 
castles of the feudal ages like those of the Ehine, bonny France 
or post Norman England, whose frowning battlements and 
strong walls, flanked by embrasured towers, disclose the san- 
guinary feuds that raged in those earlier historic days, or the 
more primitive forms of still earlier times of donjon or keep, 
standing isolated from other supporting adjuncts, or, again, 
suggestive on the other hand of the more modern structures of 
Windsor or Heidelburg, with their enclosed subsidiary buildings, 
whose spires or minarets pierce the air above the modern classic 
escarpment. Tracing thus these resemblances in their sugges- 
tive connections, as they stood out emblazoned in the gorgeous 
sunlight and circumambient air, the scene was naturally en- 
hanced as the mental capabilities of the beholder participated 
in the luxuries of the occasion. Had the passing view been that 
of but a glimpse through a vista ; or one lost to sight by an abrupt 
turn of the railway therefrom, the vision would not have been so 
prolonged; but its continuance over the space of eight miles 
made an impression that will be most lasting. At several points 
of breakage in the summit line, as viewed from an angular point 
of view, it was seen that the top appeared like a plateau almost 
level, or gently descending toward the mountain's rear, along 
which the Johnston's Creek cuts its way and empties into the 



The San Francisco Club. 73 

Bow near the Sawback Station, already passed. And such, we 
learned, was really the case; and that the view disclosed from 
the brow is also said to be most pleasing in the wide prospect 
opened up. This, however, we could not verify and, hence, 
must leave this outlook to the imagination. 

COPPER MOUNTAIN. 

Meanwhile turning again to the side at our left we notice 
toward the southwest the upper heights of Copper Mountain, 
having a respectable height of 9,130 feet, but being removed 
at a much greater distance from the railway and appearing as 
an isolated peak, it could not be inspected with anything like 
the minuteness as the more attractive range at our right. A 
backward view from the observation car of the same, as well 
as of Pilot Mountain, whose most prominent peak from this 
point has been compared to a leaning tower high elevated above 
the bulwarks of its supporting ledges in the foreground. These, 
with the general ranges of the Bow, are now brought out in 
perspective more prominently than if seen in full front from 
points further east, their outjutting spurs in wild confusion, as 
seen from our present point, appearing like so many tented parks 
clothed for the major part of the year in their immaculate garb 
of driven snow. And here, in passing, it may be noted that our 
railway elevation at Castle Station, is 4,570 feet, while at Eldon 
Station, that we are now approaching, it is 4,720 feet, thus 
showing our gradual ascent during the past seven miles of 150 
feet. Again, looking backward along the line of Castle Moun- 
tain before taking our final leave of the same, we feel that its 
prowess does not weaken in the least, but as it was, it still is now, 
and we hope will ever continue to be, like others of its peers 
passed in the valleys below, worthy to "greet and glad" the many 
future tourists that may pass this way. Eldon Station being 
passed and Baker Creek being crossed, our gaze is again directed 
to the west, and we mark our nearest approach to 

TEMPLE MOUNTAIN, 

the most lofty that has heretofore crossed the field of vision, 
being 11,535 feet high. Its summit having been first visible 



74 The Pilgi-imdge of 



from Cascade Station, now in our rear, some eighteen miles 
away, we are somewhat prepared to inspect the same at closer 
range, as it forms the southern sentinel of almost equally formid- 
able peaks farther to the nortii, and which, in due time, we will 
no doubt have pass before us in due array. 

Standing in the foreground, as it Mere, alone, being separated 
by an off-shoot of the Valley of the Ten Peaks from Pinacal 
Mountain, which lies further to the southwest, there is nothing 
1o dwarf it from our point of view. Thus seen, it consists of a 
central peak, flanked on each side by two massive shoulders, 
depressed but a little lower than their intervening object of 
support, and, hence, we are reminded of the giant Titans of 
^lytholic lore, whose strength was capable of overturning moun- 
tains from their bases, and thereby spreading devastation far 
and wide by their strength, that even utilized their volcanic 
fires that they heretofore had preserved smouldering in the 
bowels of the earth. And yet it now stands before us as but 
the picture of reserved strength, betokening thereby, as its 
name suggests, \mi the synonym of a strength that is native 
only to supernal heights toward which it points, as if to awaken 
deeper feelings of awe sublime. Moreover, we are also reminded 
of Goldsmith's quartern: 

"As some tall cliff, that lifts its awful form. 
Swells from the vale and midway leaves the storm. 
Though 'round its breast the rolling clouds are spread. 
Eternal sunshine settles on its head." 

The Special hastens on to the now rapidly approaching sta- 
tion, at which point we have already been informed that the 
pedestrian capabilities of the vigorous Knight and Lady will 
again be brought into requisition. Passing along the foot of 
Slate Mountain, a sub-range of the Sawback, that here is also 
interrupted by Corral Creek, we are brought up at a round turn 
to the platform of Laggan Station, at the end of a 210 feet climb 
from Eldon. 



The San Francisco Club. 75 



CHAPTER XIII. 

LAGGAX STATION. 

Overlooking the area at the rear of the station, we see that 
the means of transportation to the mountain lakes, that are here 
the chief centres of attraction, are so limited that it is suggested 
at a glance, that a greater part of the Knights and their Com- 
panions will be obliged to forego the mount of fiery capari- 
soned steed with lance at rest, but as humble footmen scale the 
heights to view the lacustrine gems there enshrined — the first 
of which, Lake Louise, is two and one-half miles away. To 
many of them, however, having previously wrought in the ranks, 
and thus cultured both mental prowess and hardened muscle, 
the difficulties of a mountain escalade were but a trifle even to 
the veteran squad, whose gray locks and begrizzled beards gave 
pledge of their past endurance upon many a previous hard- 
fought field. Hence, with the two venerable Sir Knights from 
Eamey and Grant the writer volunteered to scale the heights, 
having first placed their Ladies in the waiting chariots, mean- 
while leaving the younger Knights to escort the "Eed Cross" 
contingent, who had courageously volunteered to accompany their 
puissant companions, that they might be on hand to minister 
to those that might fall by the way, or, in actual conflict with op- 
posing forces, might need the bandage, or the use of other appli- 
ances of more serious import. Fortunately, the course was that 
of a gentle incline of 1 in 18, though in some parts about 1 in 10. 
The road follows the stream that drains Lake Louise, and 
though somewhat picturesque in its numerous miniature falls 
and limpid waters, it was not for the most part different at 
this season from the like streams that course down the ravines 
that separate the peaks of the region. The bright sunshine, the 
equable temperature and the exhilarating air contributed to 
make the climb less fatiguing than had been apprehended — the 
company reaching the chalet erected by the Canadian Pacific 



76 The Pilgrimage of 



Kailroad Company that occupies an excellent site at an eleva- 
tion of some fifty feet above the level of the lake, and that, too, 
without the loss of a single straggler, much less the serious dis- 
qualification of a single Sir Knight or Lady to meet the de- 
mands before them. Standing upon the veranda or rampart 
of the Chalet, Lake Louise stretches out before the beholder as 
a "thing of beauty and a joy" (if not) "forever" — yet a joy 
that will linger so long as the gems of the itinerary may be treas- 
ured in the casket of memory. 

A sheet of cerulean blue lying in a mountain pocket at an alti- 
tude of 5,645 feet, stretching in length one and a half miles away 
toward a background that shuts it in by a gentle ascending cove, 
terminated by the lower line of the glacier and upper heights of 
Mt. Victoria; and in breadth one-half mile, washing the foot of 
the Beehive upon the right and Faiview mountain upon the left, 
we have a jewel, indeed, of sapphire hue set in a bezel that only 
the God of Nature could have wrought ; and thereby supplied a 
facet of reflection that changes with the successive hours of day, 
as when Aurora, "rosy-fingered goddess of the morning," casts 
its roseate colors upon the aqueous canvas; or as "when the 
evening sun supine 

"Lies rocking on the ocean cloud like unto a god, 
And throwing his weary arms far up the sky. 
And with vermilion-tinted fingers toys 
With the long tresses of the evening stars," 

only to turn his counterpart reflections upon this mirror of the 
mountains, content to depart as he "wraps the drapery of his 
couch about him ere he lays him down to pleasant dreams," 
his aftermath still lingering in its corruscations amid the 
sympathetic echoes of this lovely vale. Although we saw it not, 
arrayed in these carnation robes, yet we think it not a sacrilege 
to so invest our fair Louise, knowing full well that the verdict 
of former experiences sanctions the eulogy in the sequences of 
such a conflict of lights and shades amid the contributory forces 
of such an environment, that has ofttimcs given reality to the 



The San Francisco Club. 77 

triumphs of the artist and the poet in their reproduction of 
their visions of Nature. Beholding, however, this object of our 
esteem, as it now is bathed in the Aurean sheen of the mid-day 
sun, when the deepest contrasts of gold and blue assert their 
strength, and the environment conspires to heighten the effect, we 
lay claim to the right to complete the picture as realized in 
the earlier and later day, and thus transfer the same to the retina 
of memory for the reflections of later days. But as accessory 
to this retention of vision we do not forget to direct our gaze 
to the surrounding accompaniments. Mt. Victoria, in the back- 
ground, cannot, if we would, be overlooked. Clothed, as she 
stands robed in snow of varying depth and breadth, resting 
her feet upon a glacial footstool and her summit piercing the 
pure cerulean at a height of 11,430 feet, we Avould not, if we 
could, consign to forgetfulness, and thus deny to her her meed 
of honor. The varying effect of the sunlight, as it falls at dif- 
ferent angles upon its opposing surfaces, as already referred to in 
connection with the lake, has also its counterpart upon the 
heights, flanks and glacial front of the mountain. The Chaste 
white of the snow-beds now glisten in the sun in glad response 
to the full flood of the direct rays; and in turn the shadows of 
intercepting spurs are transformed into shades of mellowed blue, 
while a silence, that may almost be felt, prevails ever to the 
listening ear. And, now, lifting our gaze to the cliffs of the 
upper half, we see in measured stories the huge masonry super- 
imposed, as if by hand, that gives an impression of capability 
of endurance that the warring elements of a thousand years 
cannot efface. Being thus assured it sheds its covering at will 
to add to the excess of waste at its feet, that must, however, 
yield its increment to the lake below, with occasional contribu- 
tions to the underlying moraine whose constituents are, in turn, 
but the cast-off fragments of the mountain base, and not of 
the bone and sinew of the majestic personality. The intermedi- 
ate glacier, it is true, is subject to the constant law of change; 
but in that it is renewed by the same law as the seasons come 
and go, it too may claim a substantial permanency upon which 
the lake may with confidence depend for its supplies to compen- 



78 The Pilgrirruig& of 



sate for its overflow discharged to swell other treasuries below, 
and still retain its own abundant stores. 

THE BEEHIVE. 

And now, turning to the mottled walls of the Beehive, at our 
right, whose outjutting crags show upon their upper bearings 
a more gradual incline than its vis-a-vis across the lake; yet 
its apparent stubborn resistance to erosion tends to impart to 
it a self-sufBciency upon which its protege, the lake, ma}' 
depend as in no sense inclined to deliver any too liberally 
its sediment to reduce the depths of the latter — the measure- 
ment thereof being 600 feet, we were informed, and therefore 
of such depth that an assumed permanency in this respect may 
be relied upon for an indefinite future. Therefore, while the 
bold crags of the Beehive vipon the margin of the lake are bare, 
as also the heights of the same enclosing the upper lakes, this 
is not the case with the opposite Fairview; those of the latter 
being tree-clothed for a considerable distance toward the summit, 
and, therefore, are the source of much of the tanglewood 
through which much of the waste-water of Louise has to force its 
Avay, as has been before stated, to the valley of the Bow. The 
bare upper heights have also their buffetings with the elements of 
the changing seasons ; and though at present denuded of snow, 
yet their flanks show ample receptacles for the retention of the 
winter's downfall and sources of supply for the nestling at its 
feet. 

About 200 feet distant from the Chalet, a well-constructed 
wharf and boat-house supplies a variety of craft for the boating 
fraternity — advantages that some of our Sir Knights were not 
slow to appropriate. If any went so far as the cove, or base of 
the glacier, we did not hear thereof and, therefore, cannot speak. 

MIRROR AND AGNES LAKES. 

After taking a ])road view of Louise, the writer consulted with 
one of the aforesaid venerable footmen. Sir Knight Minds, as to 
whether we should attempt to scale the steep incline of the Bee- 



The San Francisco Club. 79 



hive to Mirror and Agnes' lakes — the other member of the trio, 
Sir Knight Frantz, having been meanwhile lost to view among 
the Ladies of the company, to whom he was wont at all times to 
be most courteous, even though we are unwilling to admit that 
wewere wanting in this regard. 

We two, therefore, took the foot and pack-horse bridle path 
for a two-miles farther climb to a point of vertical altitude of 
905 feet, many parts of which was at a grade of 1 in 4, and 
at times even higher, although the average was not so great. 
The writer having an excess of fifty pounds avoirdupois and an 
excess in years of eight, he was at times somewhat in the rear 
of his avant courier, but the time of arrival of the pair at ^lirror 
did not vary more than a minute — a younger Knight having 
joined us at our start, whom we recall as Sir Knight Brown. 
Having seated ourselves upon the trunk of a prostrate tree, we 
look iu the small expanse of water as it nestled at the base 
of a precipitous cliff some 500 feet high — a spur of the Beehive, 
whose cone shape imparted the name to the mountain. We 
noticed that the eastern border of the lake was also a perpen- 
dicular wall of moderate height that reminded us in its regular 
horizontal layers of some of our home limestone quarries that 
have been awhile exposed to the atmosphere and showing vege- 
tation springing from some of its horizontal fissures. The 
border upon our left, or western shore, was Imt little more than 
an embankment or ridge of reddish clay, inclined rearwardly 
by a gentle rise from the foreground to the precipitous back- 
ground. Our point of observation inclined inwardly at a gentle 
grade to the water, and, thus enclosed, we suppose the entire lake 
area did not exceed an acre, and, therefore, in this respect wa& 
disappointing. It seemed to have no outlet at its present level, 
though it was evident that when the depression was fnll to the 
point of our view, the excess had here its outflow over the incline 
of our ascent, and, hence, in this case became a feeder of Lake 
Louise. 

W^hile thus ruminating other Knights joined us, and by their 
puffing, perspiring and mopping of brow it was concluded that 
they had found the ascent as laborious as we, but still conscious 



80 The Pilgrimage of 



that their reserve strength was sufficient to sustain them in the 
further climb of a vertical ascent of 270 feet to Lake Agnes. 

The writer consulted with his younger as to whether we 
should not attempt also to follow suit. He was not Minds 
to do so upon the plea that we had not time yet left us to ad- 
vance, and then return to the Special upon bulletin orders. Per- 
haps he was right ; but feeling sufficiently recuperated to take the 
further climb, we were inclined to debate the question. We, 
however, reluctantly yielded to take the back-track, and, there- 
fore, are not in a position to speak by experience of the last of 
the trio of lakes. We were, however, informed by some of those 
that visited Lake Agnes that it was somewhat larger than Mirror 
Lake, though there was a difference of opinion. Its overflow 
of water is also said to be precipitated into the Mirror, but as 
we saw no such downfall, we concluded that it, too, was at 
low ebb. 

The return of my companion and self to the Chalet was easy 
and rapid. We found that quite a number of the Knights and 
their Ladies had returned to the railway station ; and no reports 
had been registered of any lost, strayed or stolen ; and, hence, it 
was concluded that the escalade of the heights, of the Chalet at 
least, had been successful, and that if any pillage had been made 
no doubt the spoils would be distributed upon the final gather- 
ing of the clans at the tryst. 

Before taking our departure we felt desirous of taking a final 
stroll along the lake front, and the break-water below erected 
to prevent an excessive overflow at the point of exit of the sur- 
plus waters, and, therefore, we did so at our leisure, under 
marked elation of spirits, commingled with regrets that we must 
depart from scenes so replete with the sublime and beautiful. Re- 
turning to the Chalet, we found that the chariots and ambulances 
had departed, and therewith the lame, the halt and the blind, if 
such had been garnered by the said Ladies of the Eed Cross dur- 
ing their errand of mercy among the disabled. We then com- 
menced our final descent to the Special, and found, upon our 
arrival, that the majority of the disabled had already recuper- 
ated at least so far as to be able to present themselves a little 



The San Francisco Club. 81 

later at the lunch table. Among these we noted Sir Knights 
Finney, Magee, Weidman, Rudy, Mcllhenny, Wagner and 
Parker et al. 

Lunch, however, not yet having been called, nor the bugle 
sounded to call in the still belated stragglers, we improved the 
leisure thus afforded by perambulating the railway platform 
by way of exercise "to keep our foot in" for future tramps. 

At length "all aboard" is called and heeded, the Special pulls 
out and the first Chapter of another red-letter day is noted upon 
the Calendar. 




^J/ W M/ 
o o o 



82 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XIV. 

ADIEU TO THE BOW. 

About two miles from Laggan, the railway leaves the course 
of the How River, to which we now bid farewell for the last 
time, as we confirm its right of being well-named, having noted 
its sinuosities at the lower levels; and having no doubt that its 
reputation thus embalmed in its name is no doubt its character- 
istic in the intervening space between this and its sources — 
one of which is Lake Hector (the larger), and the other Bow 
Lake — the latter the more distant, some twenty miles from this 
point of departure, and both lying toward the north, east of 
the Waputtenk range, and in a region comparatively unexplored. 
The direction now taken by the railway is almost due west, 
along the course of Bath Creek, which the railway crosses about 
a mile before Stevens Station is reached, and, hence, its waters 
are preserved to the water-shed east of the Great Divide. 

Tbat we may form some idea of the difficulties with which the 
railway engineer had to contend in traversing this region, it is 
seen that the railway, after leaving Banff, took a course in a 
line like a sickle, the handle of which commences at a point a 
little westward of Banff — the point of the curve ending at Lean- 
cboil, thereby traversing a distance of sixty-five miles that, by 
a bee-line from Banff, would be but forty miles. 

As we approach the said crossing of Bath Creek, Bosworth 
Mountain is seen upon our right, with the continuous ranges of 
the before-mentioned Waputtenk TJange, and its conspicuous 
peaks of Mt. Daly, 10,255 feet, and Mt. Niles, 9,310, open up 
a region that no doubt would duplicate anything that has yet 
come under our observation. But we may not longer specu- 
late on the possible, but looking again to our left another most 
lofty pile stands just before us, viz, Mt. Hector, so named after 
Sir .lames Hector, that headed the Palliser expedition of 1858 
the first to explore the pass in the mountains over which we 



The San Francisco Club. 83 

are now passing. This mountain, though not so large in mass 
as I'emple, yet gives equal evidences of its solidity and com- 
pactness of base, that at first appears as almost perpendicular; 
and then, liigher up at a point half-way to the top, recedes and 
forms a bench like a floor, and above the same the peak resembles 
in its outer vertical half a longitudinal section of a sugar loaf — 
the rear portion of which is supported by a buttress of almost 
equal height with the main peak. The whole mass shows also 
the almost horizontal parallelism of the strata almost to the 
summit. Standing, too. like o sentinel at the entrance of the 
great gorge into which we are soon about to enter and descend, 
we may well interpret its protest that if we would share with 
him the sunlight of the upper air we must avoid the mining 
depths upon its lower flanks. We heeded not, but, passing 
on past the Stevens' Station with our eyes still fixed upon the 
lofty pile, we note the slacking of the speed of the Special that 
announces the approach to the point of the Grreat Divide. The 
train comes to a standstill ; and now an opportunity is given 
for the Sir Knights and their Ladies to dismount and stand 
upon the point that separates the eastern and the western water- 
shed. A rustic arch spans the separating rivulets at an alti- 
tude of 5,296 feet above the sea, bearing upon its curved en- 
tablature the legend 

THE GREAT DIVIDE, 

the letters being with their supports of the native wood. The 
inmates of the Special all descend, and, passing through the 
arch, advance to the delta separating the waters of the common 
stream into its two branches — the bed being of soft, slaty shale 
made the delta possible as a projecting bar, like the point of an 
arrow-head, that seemed to say to the approaching waters — 
"Now take your choice to right or left and make your contribu- 
tion to swell the mass either of the Atlantic, via Hudson Bay, 
or that of the broad Pacific, whose waves dash against the 
shores of half the globe." We gaze upon the central surface of 
the little stream above the point of separation and repeat, 
"Whither will you go." While thus soliloquizing, we recall 



84 The Pilgrimage of 



one of the most eloquent appeals that we ever heard from the 
sacred desk, addressed to the youth when just at the separating 
point of life — the like question heing asked in regard to ''what 
stream, whether of virtue or vice, will receive the floating craft 
of their ambitions, and to what harbor will they trim their sails." 
This and other like trains of thought were suggested to the 
mind as we absorbed the almost weird influence that seemed to 
invest the locality, while selecting, at the same time, a slate-like 
disk from the channel as a souvenir paper weight of tlie occasion 
here enjoyed. The whistle of the engine nevertheless interrupts 
the revery and all resume their places upon the train. 

From this point now commences the down grade, and, hence, 
by a rapid descent for three miles of a vertical altitude of 106 
feet we reach the station of Hector, and make there a stop of 
about fifteen minutes. This stop is made to water, to make a 
last examination of the engine, wheels and running gear ere 
the onward rush is made down the canon of the 

KICKING HORSE. 

Meanwhile an opportunity is given to look around once more 
before leaving these upper regions, that we may see what we 
may bear away with us. Upon our right, in the vale below 
the Wapta Lake displays its phu'id bosom and its blue-green 
waters unruffled, except here and there by the wild duck in 
single pairs or small groups; lying at a level of some 300 
feet below the level of our road-bed, and distant about one- 
fourth of a mile. Upon our left, tumbling over the broken 
rocks of Hector's outcroppings, appear the crystal waters of 
Cataract Creek, that it was understood was the outflow of the 
slopes of Mt. Lefroy, a peak of 11,290 feet hidden from Lake 
Louise by the lofty peak of Victoria — the latter also contributing 
from its side adjat^ent thereto of its waters to the said creek. 
So inviting did the water appear that many of the Knights 
descended from the train, carrying their chalices to bear a return 
to their Ladies (one of whom was the writer), and to drink of 
its largess as it flows away to the bosom of Lake Wapta — thus 
illustrating how great a quantity of water was already stored 



Tlic Son. Fiuntciscd ('lii.h. 85 

oil lliis ,si(l(! of the hividc lo supply (Ik; lower MircaiiiK en route 
to the Pacific. Looking beyond tlic VVupta Lake, Ml. SlifM-hrook, 
with its terrac:c(l heightn of H,510 feet, has displaced Ml. Jios- 
worlh, and, in turn, must soon give way lo Ml. Ogden, whose 
base is laved by the Kicking Horse Jtiver, and upon its western 
side by the Yoho, that here courses down tlu; Yoho Valley 1o 
mingle its waters with the Kicking TTorse. Hut now llie warn- 
ing whislle imnouuces our i-ciidiness to slarl upon I lie <l(!scent 
of the 

KICKll^G TfOiiSM (!ANON, 

and we, are away. But soon the slacken(;d speed indicates 
that we are dcs(;ending the h(!avy grade; and, looking forward 
from our perch in the clear slory of our observation car, we 
perceive on how much a lower level Hk; engine is moving 
than are Hie coaches, and at the same time how closely the 
l)ritik of the gorge parallels the Special on our right, while 
the tree; tops of the primeval forest are far IxMUjalh upon the 
most p(n'pendicular of slofies. And, indeed, so perilous does 
the situation seem to the uninitiated that some ol' the Ladies 
were much pei'turbed, one exclaiming, in her great anxiety, 
"Why did we take such a route as this, att(!nded with such evi- 
dent dangers." She was assunnl that there was no need of 
anxiety; for the reason that it was as much lo the interest of 
the management of the railway that no acci(l<'nt sliould happen 
to their patrons, and to the permanent injury of Ihe coi-poration, 
as it was lo the Sir Knights that they sliould nol joo])ardiz(! life 
or limb. 'I^hen, also, att(!ntiori was called lo Hie number of 
swilch-outs that branched off to Hie hd't of Hie Special — Ihe pro- 
vision being thus made for the shunling of Hie Irain onto the 
same, if it accidenlally should get beyond Hie control of the 
engine — a switchman being on IimihI lo rrseeive tlic! trjiin in 
the event of the loss of said control. It was thus shown that 
every precaution hjid been taken to insure safety lo all find risk 
to none. And now tluil our s|)eed is increasing, and th(! evi- 
dences that no danger is anticipaled, all eyes turn lo the canon 
as the outflow from the streams and lakes above become visible, 



86 The PU(jnm(uj(' of 



like rivulets of foam thousands of feet lielow, as we contrast our 
level with the points upon the o[)posite engaging mountains to 
approximate the depths to which the canon descends, beneath 
our view-point. And, as we pass the crest of Mt. Ogden we 
catch a view of Yoho Valley running north, at right angles 
to our course, revealing its precipitous and snow-clad moun- 
tains, separated by one or more glaciers, and celebrated as the 
paradise of water-falls. So numerous and lofty are these water- 
falls, var3'ing from 200 to 1,000 feet in altitude, with their en- 
vironing mountains and contiguous glaciers, that the Canadian 
Government has set apart this region also, and assigned the 
name to it of the Yoho Park Eeserve. Of these reserved attrac- 
tions we could form only a fain I: conception, as the eye traveled 
up the valley from its terminus before us. 

This transient vision has now but passed when we are again 
called to the left to get our first view of Cathedral j\'[ountain, 
at whose foot we Avill soon pass. Towering to the immense 
height of 10,284 feet, and of such marked features, the first 
glance revealed the reason of the name. Its bold front and 
backward outwardly curving extensions remind one of the ap- 
proach to St. Peter's Cathedral, Home, though in the massive- 
ness of the pile before us, that of the saint dwindles into a mole- 
hill — this raoimtain edifice being a score of times as high and 
twice so many times in lateral sweep and depth of contour. 

Like many of its peers of Banff and Laggan. its horizontal 
strata, so far as its base cleared of debris, with it< distinct upper 
peak, revealed its structure, the mountain is remarkably well 
preserved, and, hence, seems to have been the product of the same 
gentle uplifting agency as that to which the former owe their 
like features. The numerous domes and cupalos that marked its 
features. The numerous domes and cupalos that marked its 
sky lines, though of multifonn shapes and irregular position 
heightened the effect and coiitorm the appropriateness of the 
sacred associations involved in the name. Also, the deep gul- 
lied channels of the basal incline have wrought out so many but- 
resses of such massive curves that these, too, seem in keeping 
with the colossal weight of the cathedral heights. Windows were 



The San Francisco Club. 87 

all that seemed wanting to return the brilliant sunlight, that 
at this hour of the day shone full upon the vertical walls, to 
have completed the illusion, and allow the imagination to revel 
in the organ peals that must roll their thunder tones through the 
corridors within. Thunder peals, we are aware, do reverberate 
through these thousand domes when the storm-king passes this 
way, thus compensating in a measure for the intense silence that 
now seems to rule supreme over the sun-crowned battlements. 
But soon the outlines of the stupendous face are cut off from 
further view as another curve inland is made, and we pass to the 
lower levels when Mt. Stephens bursts upon the view to displace 
its late twin of the upper air, which it out-tops at an altitude of 
10,339 feet, and near some 7,000 feet above the bordering valley. 
Its peaks, as we approach, show, in the case of the two farther 
ones, sugar-loaf shapes, but of the one in the foreground the 
shape is that of a low and massive dilapidated chimney, con- 
nected by a supporting ridge with the farthest removed and most 
elevated of the other two of the group. At the base of the chim- 
ney peak an immense rock and earth slide appears to start out 
of the very walls of the overshadowing cliffs like an immense 
fan-shaped water-fall — its broad base extending downward even 
to the very railway. Upon nearer approach, however, the nature 
of the slide is discovered from the excavated holes seen to 
pierce the incline some 3,000 feet or more above us ; and the 
retaining transvere timbers placed beneath them, that indicate 
mining galleries that are said to be in actual use in excavating 
for silver and lead ore, that are found in paying quantities in 
the heart of the superimposed cliffs. There seems to be no ap- 
parent pathway by which these galleries are reached ; but if it be 
over the rugged surface of the slide it must be a most laborious 
climb. Passing beyond the limits of the slide, we pass through 
the base of a projecting spur by a tunnel and encircling the 
west face of the said spur another view of Stephens is seen, re- 
vealing but the one peak from this point of view, that from the 
apparent refractoriness of its materials shows less erosion than 
the faces of the former side so recently passed. Its immene but- 
tressing base, that upon its upper reaches midway to the top, 



88 The Pilgrimage of 



appears to give way to a narrow bench, is almost perfect in its 
outline. The next section above is somewhat serrated with 
minute vertical gullies, while the upper takes a more gradual 
incline to the summit, and in its contour suggests an immense 
cap resting upon the shoulders of the lower section. 




o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 89 



CHAPTER XV. 

THE STEPHENS' HOUSE. 

Arriving now at the station of Field, the Special stops at 
the platform of the Stephens' House, and the Sir Knights and 
their Ladies have the benefit of thirty minutes' allowance of time 
to alight and look around them at greater leisure. After ex- 
ploring the ground apartments of the ground floor of the house, 
with which all were much pleased, examining the curios on ex- 
hibit and purchasing souvenirs, we still have some time to take 
in the surroundings as revealed from this point. 

Walking to the eastern end of the hotel, a very broad view of 
Stevens is given, that discloses the route by which the mountain 
is ascended, though it was apparently inaccessible from the 
place of our last view. Now, a continuous causeway (as it were) 
is here seen to extend from the southwestern base to a point 
at least two-thirds of the distance to the summit, and there ends 
upon an apparent bench or narrow plateau, which, with furrowed 
ledges beyond, show that even a tolerable climber may reach the 
top between suns — the round trip being here advertised as re- 
quiring eight hours. It is also stated by local authorities that 
upon the route of ascent at a distance of about 3,500 feet from 
the base a rich fossil bed has been laid bare by a landslide in the 
unknowm but comparatively recent past, that has brought to 
light slabs of limestone, and that, where the weather has defaced 
the surface, if some of the upper layers be split off', most perfect 
specimens of fossil prints of the Cambrian period of geology 
(as it is known) are found upon the face of the rock — imprints 
that were made when these surfaces were soft and at the bottom 
of some fresh-water sea. The species found are known as 
trilobites, or shell-like truncated crawfish, of which cuts may 
be seen in any standard dictionary. These facts are, therefore, 
valuable in establishing the immense age of these deposits of 
rock — the Cambrian formation being one of the very oldest 



90 The Pilgrimage of 



of the sc'diiuentary, or so-called Paleozoic rocks, with but two 
thin layers of such rock below it, until the primary or igneous 
rocks are found in their original location — the molten rocks 
of the original earth. Had we known of this deposit earlier, 
we might, no doubt, have got some specimens as souvenirs of 
those early days. 

Casting one more "last lingering look behind," the adapta- 
tion of the poet was suggested to our mind as embodying some- 
what appropriately tlie impression made upon us under the sun- 
lit view: 

"Far along 
From peak to peak, the beetling crags among 
Leaps the live sunshine. Not from one lone peak. 
But every mountain now hath found a tongue, 
And Cathedral answers, through her golden shroud, 
Back to joj'^ous Stephen, who calls to her aloud." 

Other Byronic measures rush upon us as we stand before 
these suggestive heights: but "all aboard" is sung, and we obey 
as we recite the above to one of our lady members of the Club, 
who is nameless here, as she might object to the repetition be- 
coming public ]jroperty, as if not meant for her ear alone. 

But tlie outlook from the Special is again imperious, as with 
accelerated speed we continue our downward flight along the 
course of the Kicking Horse River, through a succession of 
mountain views that we cannot pause long enough to take in, in 
detail, though the passing pictures follow each other like a pano- 
rama of inspiring intensity. Broadly stated, however, we note 
that our course takes its way between the Ottertail and Van- 
Home ranges, our gaze passing from one to the other alter- 
nately, absorbing their prominent characteristics — the former 
bare and precipitous in it? rocky varieties, like its late fraternal 
representatives left behind us, and the latter more undulating 
and rounded in its outlines — a pleasing contrast to its opposite 
at our left. The most prominent peak of the latter and stand- 
ing out massively in the foreground is Mt. King, of an altitude 
of 9,170 feet; while two peaks of the Ottertail are equally ])romi- 



21ie San Frcmcisco Club. 91 

nent, the former, or first seen of this range, as we come within 
its precincts, is Mt. Hurd, of a more or less elliptical shape, and 
from the curves of the road presents three views of its heights 
— the latter peak some five miles further upon our way being 
Mt. Vaux, 10,741 feet in altitude, and much more irregular 
in its contour. 

Passing the last-named peak, the next mountin height to claim 
attention is Mt. Chancellor, which is situated almost directly east 
of Lanchoil, the next railway station that is entered upon the 
time table. From its altitude, 10,780, it is seen to be no 
triflinsT elevation, but being; even more distant than the Mt. 
Vaux, its specific features were not striking. 

Having reached Lanchoil, it is seen by consultation of time- 
table that we have traveled fourteen miles since leaving Field, 
and by a down grade of 480 feet of a vertical altitude — the time 
of transit being about thirty minutes ; schedule time, forty-five 
minutes. Here the course of the railway changes from due 
south by a sharp curve to the northwest, and leaving temporarily 
the line of the river that continues its course southward to its 
junction with the Beaverfoot Eiver, and thence turns also to 
a northwest course and again reaches the railway at a point 
near Palliser, when the lower canon of the Kicking Horse is 
entered. Its contrast with the upper canon of the same river 
is very great. In the upper the precipitous sides of the con- 
taining mountains were at a considerable distance upon l^oth 
sides from the stream, though the railway hugged the mountain 
sides closely upon the southern bank, but in this lower canon the 
opposite clifPs of the gorge are so close to each other that railway 
and river are enclosed between vertical walls that approach in 
some places the one to the other so closely, that they are not 
apparently more than fifty feet apart, and even less; and, oft- 
times when the gorge ^is too narrow at a sharp turn in the river 
to permit the train to pass around an intercepting spur, the 
latter is tunneled time and again; and, as the Special 
glides into and out of the same, we notice that the shadows 
intensify in gloom, and that the cause thereof is, not the fact 
of the declining day, for the reason that in looking toward the 



92 The Pilgrimage of 



sky we see that the summits are sunlit, and that the canon is 
irradiated only when the meridian sun invades with its direct 
rays these cavernous depths. And, in turn, looking below, the 
foaming waters are almost phosphorescent in their whiteness, as 
fall succeeds fall under the gravity of the rapidly descending 
grade that is measured by a drop of 700 feet within the distance 
of twelve miles, of which the greater part lies in the gorge. 

At Golden, the Kicking Horse Eiver enters the Columbia, and 
its career is now ended, its entire course for forty-one miles 
having been tumultuous, owing to its descent of 2,640 feet over 
obstructing rocks and by a tortuous channel from source to finish. 
Our course from this point is now along the eastern side of the 
Columbia, in a direction but little west of north — the valley 
here being quite wide and continuing for some eighteen miles 
without variation. Looking now, upon the part of many of us, 
upon the Columbia for the first time, and having read of its 
early history in connection with the explorations of Lewis and 
Clark in our early school days, we surveyed its waters, as they 
narrowed and widened in turn, now embracing its islands and 
now bearing upon its bosom steamers and other floating craft — 
thus creating a contrast with the shallow mountain streams that 
have been our only fluvial associates since our entrance into the 
Dominion, that carries us back to the experiences of the home- 
land. At Donald we cross the same and come into close touch 
with the Selkirk range, of which distant views have been had 
for the past fifteen miles or more. From thence still following 
the course of the river for some ten miles further, both river and 
railway are enclosed in a succession of gorges, that, while not 
so continuous as those of Palisser, are nevertheless interesting, 
but the down grade being but thirty feet within the space of 
eleven miles, accounts for the comparative exemption of the river 
from the frequent water falls that characterized the course of the 
Kicking Horse. 

Leaving now the Columbia, the Special takes the course of the 
much smaller stream of the Beaver Eiver, a short distance above 
its junction with the former and, therefore, has now come 
fairly in contact with the Selkirk range of mountains. Some 



The San Francisco Cluh. 93 

three miles beyond our entrance into this valley we pass to the 
north side of the Beaver and commence the ascent of a steep 
grade to Six-Mile Creek Station, a rise of 400 feet in altitude 
being made in five miles. As our course is now up such a 
rapidly-ascending grade we are soon above the tree-tops of the 
valley and can now see the river winding beyond, and so far 
below our level that it seems in appearance like a vari-colored 
serpent in the sky reflections of the declining day, here and 
there enlivened by the foaming rapids in their miniature plunges 
over the obstructions of its bed. As, however, we enter the cuts 
on the mountain side and detour around its projecting spurs, we 
see it less frequently, though at times seeing from fleeting out- 
looks the lofty firs and cedars upon its banks that tower, 
many of them, to an immense height that, from a view-point 
at their bases would no doubt look most majestic in their com- 
manding proportions. Also, from the bridge crossing Mountain 
Creek, that from precipitous mountain heights at our right 
comes rushing down in a series of water-falls, like views are 
att'orded, while a little later, at the crossing of Cedar Creek, like 
views are again duplicated. And, again, further on by a curve 
that reveals a lofty bridge just ahead, we were prepared to see 
another similar torrent passing beneath us that opens up a 
prospect still more extensive and captivating than that seen 
at former lower levels, that the universal exclamation of "only 
just see" rings out upon all sides. From this view-point the 
mountains monopolize the larger part of our attention, and on 
account of the magnificent views supplied from this point 
the creek has been named Surprise by the original projectors 
of the road. And, as seen under the additional advantage of 
the reflections of the last declining rays of the sun, the pros- 
pect cannot be too highly eulogized. The highest bridge crossed 
upon the up-grade is that of Stony Creek, and said to be from 
its bed 300 feet above the noisy stream that meanders far below. 
This stream, with the two former mentioned creeks, empties into 
Beaver Eiver, which now and from the next station, owing to 
the outward extension of the mountains around whose bases it 
finds its way, takes a broad sweep southward, and then westward 



94 The Pilgrimage of 



to its source at the base of the Deville Glacier to which occasion 
for reference may be found later. And here, in passing, it may 
be allowed to make the statement that from its known course, 
perhaps no outrivaling succession of outcropping of mountain 
spurs and separating canons can be found within the same area 
as is afforded, than is revealed by the exploration of Beaver River 
to its source. Moreover, had the topography of the country ad- 
mitted of the railway being projected up this valley, the tourist 
could have found no more thrilling view than would have here 
been disclosed to his omniverous eyes. This is with the proviso 
that the other regions mapped out for the Special should not 
be sacrificed. The discovery, however, of a pass between these 
mountain heights along which we skirt being essential, the 
course selected for the road-bed was no doubt the only available 
one. But now Bear Creek Station is reached, at a point that 
has been roughly estimated as a thousand feet above the Beaver 
River. The course of the railway from here veers by a broad 
curve toward the west, entering the ravine of the same name as 
that of the station up whose steep incline lies our way to Rogers' 
Pass. Xt this point of nearest approach to the creek the Gov- 
ernment Park reservation commences and extends toward and 
beyond Glacier Station, and includes the Loop and contiguous 
territory, thus embracing an area of about fifty square miles. 
Being now within the embrace of the mountains that are the 
source of numerous snow-slides and avalanches, we enter the 
frequent and ponderously-built snow-sheds that have been erected 
at an immense cost, as we learned later, but which, no doubt, 
in the aggregate, was a legitimate financial conception, both in 
the delays of travel and transportation that were thus obviated, 
as well as the expense that would have been entailed if the shovel 
brigade had been the only resort of keeping the deep cuts and ra- 
vines continuously open to the demands of the public. We 
counted some eighteen of these sheds at very short intervals 
from this point to the Pass — our next objective point. Owing 
to the shortness of these intervals, and the now rapidly gather- 
ing shades of night, but little further outlook was possible as we 
ascended the laborious steeps. Had our ascent, however, been 



The San Francisco Club. 95 



earlier in the day we might have seeu, at sueli intervals at our 
right, at the breaks of the nearer mountain peaks the conspicu- 
ous elevations of the Camels and Mt. Tupper that rises to the 
great height of 9,060 feet. Moreover, the railway being so close 
to the base of Mt. Macdonald, we saw only here and there its 
lower spurs, with the long drifts of snow lying between tlie 
same in the sheltered coves — features of our present altitude that 
gave the assurance that in the uncovered heights of our way 
no doubts existed that unbroken deposits would disclose their 
unwasted forms. 

At length we reach Eogers' Pass, or summit of the Divide, 
at an altitude of 4,275 feet, or a rise of 1,775 feet from Beaver 
Mouth Station — an average of 85 feet per mile, though some 
parts of the way was at an elevation of some 120 feet per mile. 
The Pass is so named after Major Eogers, the discoverer of the 
pass, being one of the original projectors of the road. A few 
straggling houses in the gloom of the twilight are seen to com- 
pose the hamlet — the residences for the most part of the em- 
ployes of the railway corporation. 

Passing now the point of the Divide, at an altitude of -lr,303 
feet, we commence our descent along and around the outer bul- 
warks of Avalanch Mountain to the valley of the Illecillewaet 
River, up which we go to its issue along the base of Mt. Abbott, 
which is the site of the Glacier House, our objective point, wbicli 
we reach at about 7 :30 P. M. 




o o o 



96 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE GLACIER. 

Meanwhile, dinner having been disposed of with usual eclai, 
many of the Sir Knights and their Ladies took advantage of the 
still early evening hours to take a cursory inspection of the 
Glacier House, which is one of the caravansaries that the rail- 
way corporation has erected along its line at such central points 
of interest as attract the attention of the tourist public, and of 
which we have already had ample evidences of luxurious equip- 
ment at Banff, Field and other points already visited by the 
Special. We also perambulate "with measured step and slow" 
the smoothly rolled gravel walks and smoothly shaven lawns that 
irradiate from the central fountain that adorns the gem of a 
park that fronts the entire building that stretches back at right 
angles to the railway to a distance of some 350 feet and thus, 
at a glance, reveals the demands made for accommodation of its 
guests during the season of greatest patronage, that, upon an 
average, amounts to some two hundred. The buildings, as seen 
in the brighter light of the following morning, are disclosed to 
consist of the original hotel, gabling toward the railway, and 
to contain the oflBces and dining rooms upon the first floor, 
fronted by a commodious veranda. The second story, with its 
ample rooms, surmounted by a steep roof, with its broad, gabled 
dormers show a part of the accommodations provided for the 
guests. The right-hand extensions, as we stand facing the park, 
are even more elaborate in outer finish and number of dormi- 
torial accommodations, having in addition to the long succession 
of broad and covered verandas, bastioned and turreted towers, 
a third story with bay window extensions in addition to single 
and groups of dormers of the roof apartments. The Annex 
being also upon a terraced elevation, is somewhat, on that ac- 
count, more conspicuous than the northern extension of the 
building. 

As the cooler air from the glacial heights began to invade the 



The San Francisco Club. 97 

lower level of our walks, the ladies and their escorts began to in- 
vade the well-lighted corridors and reception rooms and examine 
the line of curios and photos upon sale and exhibition at the desk 
thus set apart, and from the results of plunder subsequently 
shown to admiring friends, the booth was no doubt well patron- 
ized. 

Thus a couple of hours was whiled away, when, upon being 
admonished that the program of the morning following required 
an early start, the loitering ones, in squads and pairs, sought 
the Special to make their preparations therefor ere seeking the 
necessary respite of sleep. Of those that intended to visit the 
glacier, the majority were up betimes, and after a hasty collation, 
without formality, the sightseers set out upon their tramp of 
one and a half miles to the main attraction of this locality. 
Skirting along the edge of a piece of woodland, that is but the 
eastern extension of Mt. Abbott's denser forest growth of lofty 
spruce and cedars that extend thitherward even to the very em- 
bankment that impinges upon the hotel's rear, and which, even 
at this hour of sunlight that glints the tops of the eastern 
mountain escarpment of the little valley of our pathway — we 
say that even now, our course is wrapped in dense shade, though 
soon to be dissipated as we pass out by an opening in the 
undergrowth upon the threshhold of a rustic bridge of slab floors 
crossing the shallow Asulkan. Picking our Avay over the same, 
we enter upon the winding pathway up the divide between the 
latter stream and the Illecillewaet, which is really a good trail 
between stranded boulders of the early days, and over hillocks 
of glacial debris of equal age, and now and then over little 
streamlets that percolate from the springs and coves of the 
higher ground. And this in the early hours is suggestive of the 
sentiment that 

"The morn is up again, the dewy morn. 

With breath all incense, and cheeks all bloom, 
Laughing the clouds away with cheerful scorn, 
And blushing into day." 

It is true that the sun begins to glisten from the walls of the 
7 



98 The Pilgrimage of 



opposite steeps of ice that now come into view, and to ilood the 
vale around us with its golden sheen, and that, too, with an 
intensity that, if attirnied in life-like colors, may suggest the 
accusation of enthusiasm, biit in the defense of which we can but 
say, that the lowlands know naught thereof, and, therefore, in 
retort, we can only leave them to the "'bliss of ignorance," if 
they be so skeptical as to disparage. Having crossed the II- 
lecillewaet, and a shallow stream that descends from a ravine 
at our left, we stand at the end of the stupendous moraine that 
stretches like a petrified stream, as suggested by its surface 
formation of stone and huge boulders of all sizes and mostly 
oval forms, for the distance of probably a mile or more, at an 
angle of forty-five degrees toward the upper crest of the glaciei', 
and at the left and central plane of the visible incline. Upon 
the opposite side, hoAvever, of the moraine at the diagonal dis- 
tance of prol)ably two-thirds of a mile from the point of our 
observation we note the substantial terminus of the glacier 
marked by huge buttress-like projections of solid ice. Th\is, it 
is evident that there is an apparent recession of the glacier 
since the commencement of the period of the gravitation of the 
icy mountain toward the lower level, and apparently at a much 
faster rate upon the eastern than the western border of the 
moraine. This recession is so evident that observations have 
been made for several years to be able to determine the rate 
at which the same occurs each year. These observations, it is 
said, have established the conclusion that the glacier has receded 
at the rate of thirty-five feet per year. In support of the theory 
of recession, we observe a huge rock resting apparently in its 
original position near the bottom of the eastern edge of the 
moraine, and having written in bold letters upon its northern 
vertical face the legend — "This point is the lowest reached by 
the glacier, viz. in 1887." Whether this said year was an ex- 
ceptional one of alnindant ice formation, preceded by a succes- 
sion of milder winters, whose formation did not descend so low, 
or whether preceding year's procession had been to a lower point 
we did not learn had been a matter of record. If, however, 
preceding and succeeding years have shown this rock to be the 



The San Francisco Club. 99 



lowest point in history then we may accept the theory of reces- 
sion. 

The next question, then, that would arise would be — What 
is the cause thereof? 

This phase may be discussed later if the multitude of incidents 
do not crowd this consideration to the wall. 

Taking, therefore, this rock as a starting point, we follow 
a faint trail leading diagonally upward across the moraine at an 
angle of about thirty degrees from a given horizontal base line 
to about the terminus of the ice cliffs, though our path winds in 
and out, as need required, to avoid the huge boulders that are 
scattered pell mell over the wide and long waste. 

Eeaching, at length, the said farther edge with a group of 
Knights and their Ladies that had joined us below, we found the 
ice, though somewhat roughened on the surface, to be as solid 
as the natural rock, and pitched at an upward superficial angle 
of forty-five degrees for some distance. Without aAvaiting an 
invitation the writer boldly stepped upward by a long stride, and 
in a trice he measured his length upon the declivity. Notliing 
daunted, he determined to make another attempt later from 
terra firma to icy firma with purpose just as jinna. but at an 
angle not so firma. 

Having withstood the embarrassing ordeal of a kodak snap, 
and gathered together our implements of locomotion, we looked 
around and made a further proposition of a further ascent and 
exploration to the higher limits, if possible, of the moraine and 
its icy border. The proposition "fell just as flat" as the pro- 
poser had so recently done, though his personal election to ex- 
ploit such a stunt was not questioned. His metal, however, 
was up, and the glacier must go under. Hence, looking up the 
steep and long incline we saw the tall form of Dr. Humes, 
alpen-stock in hand, nonchalantly surveying his environs as if 
conscious that his lofty form had an overshadowing and awe- 
inspiring effect upon the grounds that in those heights are 
supposed to congregate. Although aware that we were not of so 
tall a stature, yet we thought that our avoirdupois might, ujio)! 
an average, notwithstanding our late downfall, be more effective 

Lora 



100 The Pilgrimage of 



in preserving the line of gravity within the base, even though he 
were armed with alpen-stock. At all events, upward we go 
almost to the terminus of the wall, and entering one of the coves 
around a projecting ice spur, we found the ice selving inward 
some twenty feet or more, and at an angle that we dare invade; 
and now, having the coveted opportunity, we promenade to and 
fro to our heart's intent, though the said gnomes may have 
frowned never so much. 

In those upper heights the crevasses, at least upon the almost 
vertical fronts facing the moraine, seem to be almost wanting, 
as if the ice there was of such equal density that it defied the 
sun's rays with greater immunity than at the lower levels. 
There remains only about one-fourth or less of the length of the 
moraine above us, and with what a longing we were seized to 
scale this also and see if a view might not be got of the great 
neve beyond that is the source or feeder for the most part of 
the glacier beside us, as well as of the Deville Glacier, at the 
southern end of the same neve. It is known that the primary 
action of the sun upon the snow at such heights is to convert 
it into a granulated form like finer hail — a transition state, as it 
were, ere it passes by subsequent congealation into the solid icy 
form. The immense accumulation of snow in this granular 
form constitutes the mass of the neve (so-called) that lies be- 
yond the crest of ice that meets the eye, as it lies transversely 
across the upper moraine, and is of immense extent, filling, as it 
does, an immense pocket within a circumvallation of moun- 
tains. This great neve is many times larger than the combined 
glacier and moraine that is now the object of our view. There- 
fore, though the glacier may have seemed to recede at the average 
stated yearly rate of thirty-five feet, does it necessarily follow 
that this rate shall continue even though the snows are precipi- 
tated as usual in the vast territory that feeds the neve, and the 
causes that are conducive to the vaporization of the moisture 
into clouds also continue to operate. That is, climatic condi- 
tions continuing, the successive snow deposits must continue and 
the residual formation of ice also ensue. The only factor sug- 
gested to our mind in opposition to the sequence of this con- 



The San Francisco Club. 101 

elusion is the possibility that the angle of descent toward the 
llleciilewaet Eiver of the accumulation of the snows of the 
neve may be reached, and the opposite trend toward the 
Deville Glacier may now have begun to preponderate and 
thus to augment the mass of that glacier and the consequent 
swelling of the volume of the Beaver Eiver, which we have before 
stated has its source in the latter glacier. Hence, our curiosity 
to see, if possible, if the said neve has its divide also, and at 
what point the deposit commences to gravitate in either direc- 
tion. A view from the heights of Sir Donald to the eastward, or 
from Glacier crest or Lookout Mountain, on the west, might 
determine the point at issue, though a view from the upper 
limits of our present grade might be more satisfactory in this 
connection. The time, however, at our disposal will not admit 
of indulgence in anything further than mere speculation in this 
regard and, hence, we hasten to join the groups still loitering 
at the lower elevation of the moraine. Upon our joining the 
group that we had previously left behind, Sir Knight Gorgas 
was influenced to duplicate our experience by a like ascent, but 
with what results did not transpire. We are sure, however, 
that he, as well as Dr. Humes, was well repaid for the extra 
muscular efl:'ort thereby entailed. 

The clans now compare timepieces and the pedestrians con- 
clude to retrace their steps to the hotel, preparatory to a re- 
sumption of the details of the itinerary. 

Having now had an opportunity to pretty fully locate the 
glacier in connection with its environment, we look back from 
an available vantage ground and note our conclusions. Upon 
the right of the pocket that holds the glacier and underlying 
moraine and forming their western bounds, we see Glacier Crest, 
whose upper terminal is Lookoiit Mountain. This crest in shape 
and constituent materials, reminds one of a huge culm bank, 
such as are seen around the openings of the mines of our State. 
In form, it gradually diminishes in the height of its ridge from 
the base of said peak to its outcropping in the vale below — its 
eastern flanks being bounded ])y the Asulkan Eiver, that takes 
its rise in a glacier of the same name a couple of miles further 



102 The Pilgrimage of 



south and eastward of the twin peaks, Castor and Pollux. This 
glacier may be seen from the front of the Glacier House by 
following the valley line up the river to the right of the Illecille- 
waet valley. From appearances the side of the Crest seems to 
be composed of loose materials, as if they had been crowded to 
their present position l)y the immense lateral pressure of the 
ice at such an early period as when the channel of the glacier 
was too contracted to admit of an unobstructed passage. Be 
that as it may, the ridge appeared quite inviting for a climb up 
its narrow incline, and is frequently ascended by the tourist. 

JSTow, turning our gaze toward the eastern bounds of the 
glacier, we could not, if we would, overlook the Monarch of the 
Selkirks — Sir Donald (so named after Sir Donald Smith, one of 
the chief projectors of the Canadian Pacific Eailway), which 
with the glacier, constitute the two most prominent features of 
this locality. Towering to the immense height of 10,640 feet, 
Sir Donald has good reason to lay claim to pre-eminence, both 
in height and, imtil recently, to inaccessibility of ascent. But 
the great difficulties of the latter have now been overcome, and 
the tourist of the average physical endurance may, under ex- 
perienced guides, scale its topmost peak, that in a single shaft 
leaves its com])etitors for height far below. Its real summit 
is not seen from the too-near view-point of the Glacier House, 
btit from ])oints further removed, but particularly by our party 
in the open of the lower Illecillewaet. While then commanding its 
entire mountain and slacial environment — many of which former 
we shall encounter in our further descent; yet in the view to the 
south, the vast aggregation of mountain peaks, many of which 
are unnamed and unexplored, with their enclosed glaciers and 
neves, stretching over a field of more than a hundred miles of 
extent, there is atforded, it is said, an outlook that probably 
has no parallel in this land of wonders. 

This latter declaration, however, we must take upon faith, as 
affirmed by those that have made the ascent and absorbed the 
extensive vision — a relation that causes a pang of regret that 
we too may not participate in the same feat ; although already 
aware that the Club has been favored by a concurrence of felici- 



The San Francisco Club. 103 



tons circumstances that has entailed upon us a large appor- 
tionment of that environment that comes rarely in a lifetime to 
the average individual. From what we learned of said range 
of vision, the writer, with others of the Club with whom he con- 
versed, can parallel it with but one other previous experience 
(already referred to) from the heights of Rigi Kulm, Switzer- 
land, from which a range of peaks stretching over a space of 
one hundred and fifty miles at right angles with the view-point, 
presents nearly as many peaks as miles surveyed and all named 
by the expert guide at our side. This latter was, however, but 
one vision, whereas the Sir Knights and the Ladies are having 
day by day, ever changing panoramas and the intoxication, as it 
were, of sense. 

Hence, with this reflection, we turn and retrace our footsteps 
toward the point of our early morning departure. This descent 
and retracement was not attended with any incident of special 
notice, though we did meet a few belated somnolent Knights 
(among whom were conspicuous — but we spare their blushes), 
making the ascent to the base of the moraine by pack-horse to 
view from that perch those original sights that the pedestrians 
had already appropriated. They, however, could do nothing 
more for the scheduled hour of departure of the Special was draw- 
ing critically near, and some of these mounted ones, notwith- 
standing the Are of their noble steeds, will certainly be belated. 

Our gentlemanly all around conductor, Sir Knight Ham- 
•mond, had also all to himself a unique trip, either in the direc- 
tion of the Asulkan Glacier or upon the flanks of Sir Donald, 
we did not learn which, and he became so infatuated with the 
glamour of his bearings, that he barely reached the siding by 
the bulletin in time to sing out in bugle notes — "All aboard." 
He had, however, a little respite, for it is reported that some of 
the aforesaid gallant horsemen have not yet returned, and, there- 
fore, we too must await their arrival, and their later recital with 
the "broken soldier" of the Deserted Village, who 
"Sat by the fire, and talked the night away ; 
Wept o'er his wounds, or tales of sorrow done. 
Shouldered his crutch and showed how fields were won." 



104 The Pilgrimage of 



But in realization of the Eooseveltean proverb, that all things 
comes to him that hustles as he waits, so we resolve to utilize 
the further opportunity to take a parting outlook from our rail- 
way siding point of observation down the valley northward. It 
will be recalled that the course of the railway up the valley of 
the Illecillewaet at our right to, and its departure down the 
same from, this point, travels upon the arms of a V — the Glacier 
House being at the angle of intersection. Hence, standing here 
and looking down the enclosed valley, a most superb view is 
had to the right, left and in front. In front the three out- 
stretching ridges of the Cougar radiating from a common centre 
almost monopolizes the foreground. Beyond, to the right of 
Cougar, are seen the peak and right flanks of ]\It. Cheops, and 
beyond the isolated peak of Napoleon, and still farther the Swiss 
Peaks. To the right, skirting the incoming railway, Mt. Ava- 
lanche, to which reference has already been made. Then, to 
the left, Mt. Abbott, and beyond the outjutting base of Mt. 
Eoss, which is seen later with greater advantage with its crown- 
ing peak of the height of 7,616 feet. And here, what an asso- 
ciation of crag and peak, mountain range and forest, and far be- 
neath the quivering silvery band of the river (that gives its 
name to the valley) retains the l^eholder almost spell-bound 
as the eye takes in the points in detail, and then sweeps over the 
whole with an intensity of appreciation akin to worship — the 
sentiment of adoration awakened by the handiwork of the Great 
Architect of the Universe, suggesting gratitude that he, the 
recipient, is so constituted as to be able to appropriate, as well 
as appreciate, even in a measure this paragon of scenes. From 
thence 'tis but a natural step as a worshiper in Nature's temple, 
so endowed with such evidences of beauty and sublimity to desire 
to transfer the essentials of the sentiment to the works of his 
own hands in their means to mental and spiritual development 
along the practical lines of life. Hence, the truism "from Na- 
ture up to Nature's God." 



The San Francisco Cluh. 105 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE FAMOUS LOOP. 

The cry of "All aboard" rings upon the air, and forthwith the 
Special moves out onto the main line, and is away upon its 
further mission. Thence, skirting around the base of Mt. Ab- 
bott, which, from another view-point, is said to be of consider- 
able interest, we reach about five miles away the descent of the 
famous Loop, that, in its windings, is to finally drop us into the 
valley of the Illecillewaet, with which, in its upper reaches of 
the Glacier, we have already become acquainted. This Loop, 
so-called, consists of curves almost concentric, one above another, 
at different heights — the first one of which, after crossing the 
valley of Bonney upon an outcurving bridge, passes for a short 
distance around the curve of Eoss Peak about midway of its 
flanks, and then turns away therefrom in an opposite direction 
from the original line of approach and almost directly under the 
same, and thence again sweeping around to the left by another 
curve in the line of the original direction it passes by means 
of another bridge, over the Illecillewaet into contact with the 
Cougar Mountain, upon the east side at some height upon its 
slope, only again after a short distance thereupon to again cross 
the river around the base for an equal distance of Mt. Eoss, only 
later to again cross the Illecillewaet and thence course along its 
right bank, and thence looking back and upward, the inclines 
down which we have come, one above the other, are clearly seen ; 
and thence, also looking still higher up the valley. Sir Donald 
is now seen in all his majesty overtopping all his associate 
mountains — with its perpendicular square-like, tower-like peak, 
that, at this comparatively low level, appears so stupendously 
lofty as to seem almost incredible to the eye. Meanwhile, we 
pass Eoss Peak Siding, that shows a drop of 520 in the seven 
miles since leaving the Glacier House. Continuing down the 
valley, the railway again crosses to the left bank of the river, 
which is retained until the Illecillewaet Station is reached, when 



106 The Pilgrimage of 



it again crosses to the west side before reaching Albert Canon 
Station, at a vertical descent of 1,370 feet in the distance of 
twenty-one miles since leaving Glacier Station, or a drop of 748 
feet since leaving lUecillewaet Station. 

Leaving the last-named station, the railway passes along the 
edge of the beetling cliff of the mountain, showing the river in a 
narrow channel, some 300 feet below, whose breadth many 
places does not exceed twenty feet, and as the descent still con- 
tinues at a steep incline, the river rushes through the canon like 
a sheet of foam. 

Ton miles farther the station of Twine-Butte is passed, so 
called from its nearness to the two mountain peaks, Mounts 
Mackenzie and Tilley — natural turreted formations that are 
usually isolated, and not of very considerable height. This 
formation is more frequent in the Eockies of the States, particu- 
larly in Idaho and Wyoming. Being comparatively near each 
other and of quite similar appearance, they pass as "Twins." 
They lie to the south of the railway and about equi-distant from 
the station so named and Revelstoke. To that right of the rail- 
way, but somewhat more distant, the bold and sharply defined 
Mountain of Clachnacoodin is seen. Passing the latter, the rail- 
way and river again approach very close to each other and pass 
through a gorge so narrow that it cannot be considered more 
than a deep fissure in the apparent solid rock whose opposite 
walls do not appear to be more than from twenty-five to thirty 
feet apart. The distance of this close embrace is not more 
than two miles, when the railway again crosses the lUecillewaet 
to the north for the last time, and at about a mile further from 
this point enters Revelstoke, a town of some 1,600 inhabitants, 
and an important station at which all trains stop. Here we 
make a stop also for some fifteen minutes — the railway passing 
quite near the sidewalks bordering some neat little cottages 
that showed thrift and comfort in the case of their occupants. 
The Sir Knights and Ladies take advantage of this, their first 
opportunity since leaving Glacier to stretch their limbs, and 
so perambulate up and down the sidewalk to the full limit of 
time allowed. Passing these cottages, we noted quite a com- 



The San Francisco Club. 107 



manding looking hotel at our right, upon a considerahle elevation, 
standing back some one hundred feet from the sidewalk and 
reached by a series of staircases of easy flights. Upon inquiry 
we learned that it also was one of the railway corporation hotels. 
Walking in the opposite direction, we asked a bystander the name 
of a most conspicuous mountain a short distance to the south- 
west and learned that it was Mt. Bigbie, but that it was fifteen 
miles distant. We did not suppose that it was more than three 
miles. Thus, it is seen how deceiving distances are in this 
most transparent atmosphere. Getting into motion again, the 
Special makes a long detour around the town to the north, and 
then westward for a distance of some two miles, by which we 
get a good backward view of the town and its industrial build- 
ings, and later we cross the Columbia Eiver by a substantial 
bridge at least half a mile long. We perceive that it has now 
grown to be a much larger and apparently more important 
stream than when we last left it at Beaver Mouth, sixt3''-eight 
miles to our rear by rail — the river having made a detour mean- 
while around the Selkirk ranges and having made a vertical 
descent in that distance of 1,055 feet. Had we, however, fol- 
lowed the course of the river, the experiences of the Glacier 
region would have been to the Club a dead letter, as well as 
to the thousands of the tourist class, both for the past and for 
an indefinite time in the future. But here we again part, to 
meet no more until we reach Portland, when some of us at least 
may have the privilege of a ride upon its bosom amid the crowd 
of floating craft that there do congregate. 

LEAVING COLUMBIA. 

Having now crossed the Columbia, which from this point goes 
directly south, we continue our course westward, following that 
of the small river Tonca Walla, up the Eagle Pass, which has 
cut such a deep canon into the Columbia Eange that the labor 
of the engineers of the railway has been greatly aided thereby, 
to the extent that the marginal embankment of the same is 
more easily kept in repair upon the surface of the debris of the 
contiguous cliffs — the mountain walls on both walls being, how- 



108 The Pilgrimage of 



ever, sufficiently near to supply variety and tone to the outlook. 
Indeed, the valley in some places widens to the breadth of a mile 
or more, where the bed of the river is broader, and at such 
places the depressions are of such extent of area that the same 
are called lakes — a feature that is quite noticeable in this lower 
section of the valley. There are four of these expansions, or 
lakes, within the pass before the flag station of Griffin Lake is 
reached — the last of the series, the others in the order of our 
approach thereto being Summit, Clanwilliam and the Three Val- 
leys, which here occupy the entire breadth of the valley. The 
margin of these lakes and the river is covered with a rank growth 
of stately trees indigenous to the region, such as cedars, hem- 
lock, spruce (the well-known evergreen of the pine family, 
Tsuga Canadensis), and Douglas pine, called also spruce (Pseuda 
tsuga Douglassii). These attain, in many cases, the great height 
of 200 and even 300 feet, and vary in diameter from eight to 
fifteen feet, their lofty tops engaging the attention of the 
tourist. Owing to these attractions and the desirability of pre- 
serving them undisturbed the Provincial Government has made 
the territory inclusive of these lakes, with a margin on each 
side of about a mile, and to the same distance beyond the 
Griffin Station, a Park Eeservation, under the restrictions usually 
in force in such cases. The course of the railway l)eing north- 
west from the Three Lakes to the junction of the north fork of 
the Eagle River, turns at that point to the southwest and follows 
the main stream down the valley thereof to Sicamous Junction. 
The station of Craigellachie is reached soon after the said turn 
of the river is made, and it is here, it is said, that the last 
spike of the Canadian Pacific Railway was driven on Xovember 
7, 1885, the two gangs of workmen working from the opposite 
directions meeting here upon that day. The Sicamous Station 
is reached by crossing what is called the N^arrows — a strip of 
water connecting Lake Mara, that hero reaches up from the 
south, and along whose western shoi'e runs the Vernon Branch of 
this railway, to an interesting region in that direction. Sica- 
mous is, therefore, a central point for trade upon the lakes 
farther north and the adjoining agricultural and mining regions 



The San Francisco Club. 109 

lying south. It borders also the Salmon Arm of Shuswap Lake, 
which latter, with its numerous other arms, occupies the centre 
of the Great Lake region of Eastern British Columbia, and thus 
constitutes a very important factor in the wealth and attractive- 
ness of the Province. In its main ramifications it resembles a 
huge unequal limbed and broad-based X, whose arms invade a 
wide mountainous region some fifty miles square. The railway 
takes from Sicamous the line of the southern margin of the 
Salmon Arm, as already stated, and as we skirt the same we 
look upon its placid bosom at an hour of the day most favorable 
to the transmission of the sun's reflections, with their gradual 
shading away to the darker shadows of the mountains to the 
north and south of the fiery wake — the whole suggestive of their 
bearings from an art standpoint of still-life, or of the diversions 
of the piscatorial art in the indulgence of which we were wont 
upon other days to steal away awhile from care and take ad- 
vantage of the habits of the finny tribes that desport beneath the 
surface; and after having so indulged to our hearts' content to 
sweep out into the central field to take in the rough, but becom- 
ing, bulwarks of either margin; 

"or drawing near 
To breathe the living fragrance from the shore. 
Of flowers yet fresh with childhood ; on the ear 
Drops the light drip of the suspended oar. 
While chirps the grasshopper one good-night carol more." 

And thus musing upon the garniture of Nature we become 
still more strongly impressed with the thought that beauty must 
be the crowning ideal in form and feature of the supernal ; and 
the sublime the background of the eternal. 

Thus ruminating, we double the southern limb of the Mallet 
end of the southern extension of Salmon Arm and take our 
northern course toward the northern end, which is reached at 
Tappen Siding — said Mallet end being some five miles in length. 
The course beyond follows the bed of a little streamlet to the 
north for about a mile further ; and, then, instead of continuing 
along said stream to its source, and thence farther to the main 



110 The Pilgrimage of 



body of the lake with its marginal advantages, now veers away 
to the northwest direct along the flanks of the mountain, 
cropping out northward, up an incline to a maximum height 
of 600 feet, and thence descends to the southwestern terminus 
of Little Shuswap Lake, as if loath to leave such cold water 
regions with their blessings of health, wealth and sobriety. 
Thence skirting its short western border to its southern end, 
the Special moves boldly away from its smiles into the inviting 
meadow lands to Shuswap Station. Thence we speed away 
down the lu'oadening valley of the South Thompson Elver, that 
takes its source from the said Little Shuswap — the change to 
the arable lands of the industrial farmer and fruit-grower being 
most suggestive after our continuous flight o'er rocky spurs, 
mountain heights, glacier foot-hills and dashing torrents that 
have been our mental sustenance since the prairies beyond the 
Rockies were left behind. Therefore, we now note with more 
vivid interest the map-like enclosures of pasture lands, and the 
stored and growing products of the fields of grain, with the ad- 
ditional evidences of pastoral life in the herds of horses and 
cattle and the flocks of sheep that graze upon either hand — 
showing thereby that Nature here, too, has a care for seed 
time and harvest that the support of the physical life may assert 
its claim of priority to the successful culture of the mental, with 
its reciprocal aid in the evolution of the capabilities of the 
former. A sound mind in a sound body, was no idle dream of 
the philosopher. And, moreover, the evident proprietorship of 
the occupants of the neat homes that border the way disclose 
the independence of the lords of the manor in self-support that 
shows the foundation of nobility of character not to be over- 
looked. Moreover, it is here, too, that we discover the first evi- 
dences of the good results attendant upon intelligent irrigation 
which, while in some places it is seen to be a useful adjunct to 
increased agricultural thrift, in others it is seen to be an es- 
sential without wliich even reclaimed lands would soon relapse 
to the barren condition of sage-brush vegetation and the arid 
doon. But as these passing scenes succeed each other, we note 
the increased speed of the Special as it trips along the roadway. 



The San Francisco Club. Ill 

down the incline that from Notch Hill to Kamloops, just before 
as, marks a drop of 550 feet in five miles. The flag station 
of Ducks is now being passed, with its outlying pasture lands 
and fruit orchards, the latter of which give another more ap- 
preciable feature to the landscape. 

KAMLOOPS. 

But now Kamloops comes into view, located at the Junction of 
the North Branch of the Thompson Eiver and the South, along 
which latter we have been to this point taking our way. In our 
further course the name of Thompson will prevail without 
further prefix. "Long may he wave," as we may later affirm. 

This locality has been considered an ideal one for its equality 
of temperature and invigorating climate, both for the invalid 
and those addicted to the use of the "ounce of prevention," of 
which among the patrons of the Special there are many. More- 
over, that this regime might be thoroughly carried out upon the 
Pilgrimage our very considerate Committee of Arrangements 
provided that among the members of the Club that there should 
be a full representation of all the schools of medicine. We did 
not inquire specifically who were the representatives of the 
Allo's, or the Homeo's, or the Elec's, or the Osteo's, or even of 
the C'hris. Scie's, or the Dowie's — suffice it to say that there 
Avere Dr's and Dr.'s, and that their success in the line of "pre- 
vention" was marvelous. It is true that Sir Knight Eudy was 

accused of tarrying long at the table; but the species of 

"prevention" natural to that propensity was not upon the roster, 
and therefore the Doctors are not responsible in the premises. 
It was, however, affirmed that as this disease, when chronic, is 
incurable, no prescription is available unless it be a little ad- 
monition behind the curtain. We know from experience that 
this last remedy, at least in our own case, has been friiitful of 
good results. 

The advantages of Kamloops as an emporium of trade for a 
wide region of mining interest, both in land and water trans- 
portation facilities, and its touch with the grazing interests of 
the converging valleys make the little town of 1,500 inhabitants 



113 The Pilgrimage of 

a place of considerable activity. Paul's Peak, across the South 
Branch, to the north, and Sugar-Loaf Mountain, to the south, 
tend to keep off the "blues" that are the chronic disturbers of 
prairie life; and, hence, no such ailment should be indigenous 
to this pretty little town. We must, however, leave it without 
a desired exploration, "all aboard" being heralded, and in a 
very short space of time Kamloop's Lake, that is substantially 
but a widening of the River, is being skirted upon its southern 
bank — a course that will continue for the next twenty-five miles. 
Being more closely engirt than Salmon Lake in the close ap- 
proach of the mountain base to the water line there is a more 
perceptible play of lights and shadows, and the lacustrine vege- 
tation is more abundant in which water fowl and birds appear, 
though the fact has been observed that these winged couriers of 
the sky have heretofore been but little seen within the vicinity 
of our successive routes. The aquatic birds have had the mo- 
nopoly since we left the plains beyond the Eockies. And now the 
environing mountains begin to obstruct our passage more per- 
sistently, and the strategy of frequent turning has been more 
frequently resorted to in order that our passageway may be hewed 
out with greater expedition and safety. 

The twenty-five miles from Kamloops being traversed the 
canons of the river owing to the closer approach of the opposite 
cliffs and spurs begin to appear in more forcible evidence, and 
the enclosing walls are not so lofty and continuous as encoun- 
tered in those of Palisser, yet the variety of scenery secures the 
continued attention of the patrons of the Special, and as we 
pass out into the district of the receding benches and foot-hills 
we note the frequent flumes, or water-ways, coursing along the 
mountain and hillsides, and in some cases conducting their en- 
closed waters to a great distance, both from the heights behind 
us and from the upper ravines that open up every now and then, 
both near and distant upon either hand. But even these now 
seem to get fewer, and the rounded and slightly terraced hill- 
sides of closely cropped grazing ranches at our left become 
browner and more parched as we approach the environs of Ash- 
croft. 



The San Francisco Club. 11^ 



CHAPTER XVIIl. 

ASHCEOFT. 

As we are billed to be shunted here over night, we begin to 
wonder how any town can exist in what now begins to foretoken 
a desert. The sun has now descended behind the mountains 
beyond the river that has now become invisible behind the inter- 
posed embankments, and the shades of eve to settle perceptibly 
upon us as we pass onto the siding of the station and we are 
in the longitudinal centre of Ashcroft. The broadest street of 
the town parallels the railway just back of the station buildings ; 
and as dinner has not yet been called, many of the Knights and 
their Ladies alight and perambulate the sidewalks, upon the 
side of the street facing the station — the railway side being oc- 
cupied principally by the railway warerooms and annexes. We 
found that nearly every house in the central part of the town 
was a store, separated here and there by a few hotels and eating 
houses. While we thought it a good omen that the dry-goods 
stores and hardware establishments should predominate, we were 
led to soliloquize as to the reason that the predominance was 
not given to the sale of liquors. We thought that if such a town 
were in the States and in illustration, the name of Corry, in our 
own State, as we saw it some years since, showed at the same 
distance from the station that more than every other house was 
a saloon. We concluded, further, that certainly miners and 
their representatives who here do most resort must be as thirsty 
as the woodmen, that in the days we speak of, cleared the 
mountains around said town of their timber. Hence, we could 
only conclude that the laws of restriction of the Dominion must 
be more rigidly enforced and obeyed than with us. Be that, 
however, as it may, we saw no such bibulous crowds in Ashcroft 
as disgrace our towns of the mining and lumber regions. 

Meanwhile, dinner being despatched, we again explore the 
town at greater leisure and more critically. Although Ashcroft 
8 



114 The Pilgrimage of 



is reported as containing a population but a little in excess of 
500, yet we saw at least two stores that might well rank with 
some of our department stores of towns of tive times the number 
of inhabitants. Some of our party of a more inquisitive turn 
of mind asked an explanation, and was informed that Ashcroft 
was the entrepot of the Cariboo and adjacent mining district, 
and even for other similar districts more distant. Goods are 
transported to these regions by trains of wagons, drawn by mules 
broken to this business since, by experience, they seem to be 
more hardy and particularly adapted to this service, and that 
this trade to and fro is constant during the greater part of 
the year. Passengers and their portable belongings are also 
carried back and forth by stage daily. One of these arrived while 
we were upon the street, and some of our party, being upon the 
alert, saw some of the sacks of gold actually passing to the proper 
custodians of the same, or in the hands of the return miner. 
Being privileged to handle the little sacks, one containing 
$2,000.00 in dust was found to be surprisingly weighty. Of 
course the contents of these sacks interested us no more than 
so much sliining dirt, for the reason that the reputation of the 
members of the Club as millionaires, Avho were possessed of more 
money than they know what to do with, had preceded us even 
before we reached St. Paul. Hence, for our reputations' sake, 
how could we take any interest, at least in so small amounts as 
wiiYQ said to be contained in these sacks. At all events, none of 
it was permitted to ])urden the luggage of the Club, and, hence, 
remained in the custody of the original handler of the filthy 
lucre. Indeed, several members of the Club can recall instances 
prior to this time when we w(^re accused of thinking we owned 
the greater part ol' the accumulated capital of the coimtry, and, 
therefore, it was no luore than we sliould be expected to shell out 
liberally, ask no questions, and consider it a favor that our 
excess should find a receiver. We admit, however, that these 
instances were exceptions, and are hap])y to record that, at least 
at Ashcroft we were treated most courteously. After perambu- 
lating Alain street to and fro to their satisfaction, several 
groujis went through the residential portions, and were pleased 



The San Francisco Club. 115 



to find a number of cottages therein, some of which were beau- 
tified by fountains and parterres of flowers in front of the same. 
Subsequently, a few of us wandered down to the river brink 
that passes on the north side of town — the embankments being at 
least fifty feet above the water level, and thickly strewn with 
rounded boulders of all sizes. A number of these we rolled or 
hurled down the steep embankment, and the splash in the dark 
waters below with an occasional gleam of foam to note their 
submergence, is seen in the darkness. 

Thus we whiled away our time until our usual hour of retire- 
ment, when in instalments one and all sought surcease of ac- 
tivity either in the silence of sleep or in the rivalry of stentorian 
snores. In this regard Car No. 1, the Commodore, was pre-emi- 
nent for its decorum, 

"Silence having become enamoured of their voices, 
And locked their mute music in her rugged cells." 

The "first call to breakfast" awakened some of us too soon, 
since in compensation for the early experiences of yester's morn, 
we were just now exploring the "Delectable Mountains" in the 
land of dreams. 

"Where air is pansied turf to winged feet. 
And encircling forests by etherial touch 
Enchanted, wears the livery of the skies; and 
The wind in sympathy with One 
Grows beautiful to all." 

Hence, withdrawing the curtains of our couch, that till then 
had shut out the unwelcome light, ^ve realized that the sun, too, 
had withdrawn the curtains of morning and was gilding the 
mountain tops beyond the river with assurances of another au- 
spicious day — a fit counterpart to the one so lately laid to rest. 
Hence, delaying not the order of our going, we soon Join our 
associates of the "second call" and having with due despatch dis- 
posed of the viands set before us, we are prepared for the experi- 
ences of the subsequent day. 



116 The Pilgrimage of 



ASHCEOFT LEFT. 

Meanwhile, the Special is upon its further flight down the ser- 
pentine course of the river to mingle in the scenes that it may 
further reveal. Some three or more miles below our starting 
point the mountains that had above been so complaisant in giving 
full course to the Thompson, now close again upon its flowing 
Avaters, as if before being under restraint simply to recuperate 
for another collision, when tlie Black Cannon, so-called, is 
entered that walls in both river and railway amid a gloom so 
intense as to command the verdict of being well-named — the 
waters below, the suppliant rails aJjove, and the frowning over- 
topping walls — all combining to bring the agony to a close, and 
And in the grateful sunlight of Basque Ranch some compensa- 
tion for the malignancy of the commingling of lights and 
shadows that so late appeared to be involved in an unequal con- 
test with odds in favor of the latter. But as the name of the 
station indicates, evidences of prevailing sunlight are seen in the 
terraced hillocks in the l)ackground at our left where, for a lim- 
ited extent at least, grazing is maintained under irrigation from 
the storage of the neighboring hills and mountain rivulets. 

Spence's Bridge, associated with the pack-horse and mining 
schooner of the olden days, before the iron horse invaded these 
gulches, is seen some fifty feet beneath our feet, showing the 
route to the Cariboo gold fields, that are now reached more 
expeditiously from Ashcroft. We cross the Nicola River just 
before we reach the bridge, which, from its volume of water at its 
mouth, must have its source some distance back among the 
plateaus and mountains of the interior, while it is said that its 
valley is rich in vegetation in the region that it traverses. 

But now the elevations of Arthur's Seat, upon the right, and 
the uncrowned peaks of Nicoman Plateau, upon the left, en- 
croach, like their peers already passed, very closely upon the 
channel and thus compel a series of reversed curves to be 
wrought out of the very substance of the contiguous cliffs; and 
every now and then to necessitate the piercing of a tunnel where 
the projecting spurs are too lofty or precipitous to be assaulted 



The San Francisco Club. 117 

upon their vertical faces to admit of an open passage way, and 
yet suJficiently approachable as to encourage the clinging thereto 
of the railway upon the eastern side for a distance yet to come 
of thirty miles traversed ere a cross is made to the western shore. 
And here the play of colors of water, earth, rock and vegetation 
awaken a rivalry, while the grotesque in form and figure assert 
their liberty to challenge attention in completing the totality of 
the outlook. The translucency of the water in its placid green 
affords a lovely diversion that only the iUchemy of Nature can 
create. Again, the valley broadens as the JSTicomen Creek is 
crossed, and a site is afforded for the mining hamlet to which 
the creek gives the name — a locality where it is said the first 
gold was discovered that was mined in the Province, viz, in 
1857. Passing beyond the same for apparently but a short dis- 
tance, the mountains again encroach upon the river bed, and 
the contest between rock and flood and the resources of man is 
again repeated. The struggle, though now declared in earnest, 
is suddenly suspended for a while as we glide out from the 
shadows of the impeding ledges into the little town of Lytton. 

PEASER EIVER. 

Here, the Thompson enters the Fraser River, and as has hap- 
pened in the case of its own adjuncts, so now the Thompson loses 
its identity as a name, and its waters commingling with those 
of the larger river, lose also their identity of color — those of 
the Fraser being a slaty white, while those of the Thompson are 
of a bluish green. As the Fraser here comes down a broad 
and beautiful valley, we recall the pleasure of the view, with 
its bounding mountains that stand out quite conspicuously. 
Mt. Botanic, to the northeast, and Stein ^Mountain, to the south- 
west, have withdrawn their feet so far as to allow an ample 
pathway, though from the volume of the stream we feel assured 
that if obstructed it would not long hesitate to force its way 
over every obstacle, as we shall no doubt find to he the fact as 
we take our way from this point along its course. ]\roreover, 
that it has already done considerable abrasion of opposing ledges, 



118 The PUgrimage of 



either directly or in its tributaries, its color, as before stated, 
shows. Hence, we are reminded that as vice so often besmirches 
virtue, so the waters of the latter soon contaminate and ulti- 
mately blot out the beautiful shade of the Thompson. The 
forceful energy of the Fraser, as remarked in its upper channels, 
now find ample scope for activity in the canons as we approach 
the same. The vertical descent of the river for the coming 
twenty-seven miles being some 250 feet, might not appear to be 
much upon an average, yet when, upon short grades, it is much 
greater, there is afforded opportunity for power that will be 
evident at sight. 

The Cantilever Mountains, upon the opposite side of the river, 
so named after the railway bridge that crosses the river at the 
next station that we reach, already commences to crowd the 
stream from that side, while the bench of the enbankment 
upon which the road-bed is laid equally encroaches upon the 
same in turn, and, hence, joins in the melee that is now on for 
miles to come. The railway continuing high above the stream 
necessitates the erection of said cantilever bridge in connection 
with the fact that the swollen flood of waters burdened with 
floating ice during portions of the year would soon force away 
any piers, however well protected, and, hence, the open span 
for a free passage. In .passing, therefore, over the same we have 
a good view, l)oth of its present and prospective possibilities. We 
are, moreover, hardly over the same when the precipitous rocks 
upon each side and the narrow channel between require tunneling 
to admit of a passage of the Special, and, hence, we are soon in- 
volved in the darkness of one such. Coursing soon through the 
same out into the open, we turn our eyes naturally toward the 
river, and observing our course to continue at substantially upon 
the level above, the river continues in its bed far below, to be 
wrought, if possible, into a greater rage by the obstructing huge 
l)oulders and the outjiitting rock spurs of the lofty embank- 
ments. 

Withdrawing our attention from these phases of flood and 
rock, we notice upon the opposite side of the river a somewhat 
broadened trail, and learn that the same is the bed of the 



The Sail Francisco Glvh. 119 



old road projected by tlie government through this region in 
the days before the building of the railM^ay — said road following 
also the sinuosities of the river, and accommodating its grades 
thereto at points of easiest excavation, or surmounting the same 
frequently by steep grades, and in some cases going inland to 
flank a spur, only to return again to the bank as supplying, 
in the aggregate, the best facilities for transit with a minimum 
of excavation. Hence, to follow the same we have as frequently 
to look upward as downward, and at one place, some fourteen 
miles below Lyttou, along the flanks of the Jackass ^Mountain, 
the road takes up a steep grade, even to the height of 1,000 feet 
or more above the river, and in passing over some intervening 
shallow depressions a platform is thrown over the same, jutting 
against the mountain side and supported upon the inclined side 
by supporting timbers that, at our distant point of observation, 
appear to be mere poles, so frail as apparently hardly sufficient 
• to carry their owti weight. Evidently, the road is used but little, 
unless it be by the pedestrian or pack-horse. 

The interest- in the struggles of the river now still farther below 
us increases, as we see the huge masses of rock often amid stream 
or thrusting out from the embankment, some more or less level 
upon the top or shelving at such an angle as one would suppose 
them to be inaccessible ; and yet we see them here and there, 
occupied either by Indians, watching to spear the salmon, or 
as having been so lately, that their pole tresseling are laden with 
the drying fish, or as having been but lately abandoned with 
their previous catch. And then, again, little coves are dis- 
closed, revealing patches of land rudely cultivated by the In- 
dians, with an occasional primitive vehicle carrying the squaw, 
the papooses and probably entire outfit in passage to other fishing 
pools, rapids, or domicils. 

FEASEE CANON HOUSE. 

Now, passing through the gorge between the Nipple ]\Ioun- 
tains, at our right, and the masses of the Stoyoma, across the 
river at our left, we at length again pass out into the open and 
arrive at the surprisingly attractive hostelry of North Bend. 



130 The Pilgrimage of 



Here we stop some thirty minutes to water our iron horse and 
replenish our private water tanks. This gives us opportunity to 
stretch our limbs at our usual promenade gait, and take in, at 
the same time, the attractions of the hotel. The horticulturist 
has been at work, while the botanist may find occasion to note 
the varieties of flowers that adorn the parterre and surcharge 
the atmosphere with their aroma. iSTor are the management at 
all selfish in their proprietorship, but our ladies are invited to 
arrange bouquets, which some of them comply with. The hotel 
is known as the Fraser Canon House, and, like all such erected 
by the railway corporation, makes a ver}'^ pretty appearance, as 
it stands upon an elevated terrace and is surrounded upon all 
sides b}'^ broad verandas. A fountain plays by the sidewalk lead- 
ing to the hotel, while the wooded declivities of the mountain in 
the background give such a pleasing contrast that the buildings 
are brought out into bold relief. 

One would hardly suspect that there would be a demand for 
such a building in this wild and unproductive region, but in 
entering the deeper and more rock-environed canons in such 
comparatively near reach, so much is found to attract the tourist 
that a good patronage is not only received, but much of it 
retained during the tourist period of the year. Being less than 
thirty miles from the head of navigation upon this river, the 
run from the coast cities to this point is but a matter of a 
few hours, and, hence, the location is popular. Time is called, 
and we again are in motion. Soon after leaving the Bend and 
crossing White Creek, a fine view, both above and below the 
bridge, is had in looking down the river, the railway line being 
straight for some distance, the base of the mountains receding 
and the stream being broader. But this relief is of but short 
duration, for we again cross another creek (Skurry) by name, 
and we skurry indeed into the most thrilling portion of the 
Frazer Canon, that in its climax is named Hell Canon. Here, 
the opposite sides are almost continuous walls, broken here and 
there only by projecting cliffs that have apparently dropped 
bodily into the river, but without severing their connection with 
the mainland buttresses and yet only partially able to dam and 



The San Francisco Club. 121 



enrage the opposing waters that twist, and turn, and gyrate, and 
roar, and spit in foam, and anathematize, as it were, in impreca- 
tions unutterable, like unto those of enraged demons, suggestive 
of a wrath that found utterance in the name as the only proper 
one to characterize this strife of opposing forces. We were, 
therefore, upon the lookout for the climax at the rock called 
Lady Dufferin's Walk, that in its flat top and smooth vertical 
sides seemed to inspire confidence of stability to the beholder and 
to invite him to step thereon and view the turmoil below. In 
doing so it is seen that the channel between it and the opposite 
equally positive rock is allowed a passage that did not appear to 
be more than twelve or fifteen feet wide, and that, too, at a point 
within less than twenty miles from navigation. To heighten 
the prospect, it is observed that the railway at this spot is at least 
two hundred feet above the water and running upon a road-bed 
hewed out from the solid overhanging cliff. Moreover, these 
obstructions to the passage of the river is so continuous, and its 
channel so tortuous, that frequent tunnels have to be pierced 
through the projecting spurs to admit of a passage by the avoid- 
ance of what otherwise would be impassable short curves. 




o o o 



122 The Pilgnmage of 



CHAPTER XIX. 

SPUZZUM. 

The flag station of Spuzzum is next reached, at which an airy- 
looking suspension bridge is seen to span the river at a distance 
of some fifty or more feet below, and like a spider's web to float 
in mid-air in its diminutive construction in contrast with the 
massive mountains that, upon either side, overlook the same, 
as if frowning upon the puny efforts of the builders in their 
attempt to baffle the combined strength of mountain and flood 
by thus invading their territory. The only access to this part 
of the Province, by other than the railway, is by the roadway, 
crossing this bridge, of which reference has also been made 
at its crossing of Spence's Bridge (its continuation) upon the 
route to the Cariboo Mines. This road, in its further course 
down the river from this bridge, for ten miles or more parallels 
the railway, sometimes above and then, again, below the latter, 
as the least difficulties presented themselves to its projectors. 
The mountain that appears, as seen below from the bridge, as if 
determined to obstruct the way is easily flanked, and the en- 
gineering difficulties of the detour there made are found to be no 
greater than has been encountered upon our passageway thither- 
ward. 

Thus, curve after curve is made in compliance with the detours 
of the' river, that, like a pioneer of progress, has plowed its 
way through the defiles with the impetus acquired by a descent 
of bed of 225 feet within the space of twenty-five miles, until, 
at length, the river taking a wide bend to the south, the Special 
leaves it and plunges into a tunnel of some fourth of a mile in 
length, as if making a last effort to shake off the continued re- 
straint to which it had been subjected by mountain and flood in 
the fastnesses now left behind for time immemorial. And now 
emerging therefrom, the station and hamlet of Yale is reached, 
nestling in a comparatively small cove within the lap of en- 



The San Francisco Club. 123 



circling mountains that overshadow it upon three sides — the 
river separating from the mountains beyond. As we leave the 
tunnel and look backward up the river, we see the last huge 
mass of rock monopolizing the middle of the stream, and the 
lofty mountain beyond that like a monster turtle back, appear 
to block the way beyond to one coming from below — a twin 
bulwark to the Siwash Mountain, that is the nearest overshadow- 
ing cliff. Looking now at the broadened surface of the river, 
and its apparent placid surface, we have the apparent evidences 
of its navigability, which, in connection with the terminus of 
the grade at this point, demonstrates that the contest is over 
and the way to the ocean is unblocked. 

This fact, with the inducements held out to the placer at- 
tractions of the region, have attracted migratory adventurers 
of Chinese and Indians, whose huts are seen at intervals along 
the river banks, as well as others of a more ambitious character 
that prefer to win their gold from the more certain channels of 
commerce. 

The course of the railway is now due south from Yale to a 
point some twenty miles away and thence in a southwestern di- 
rection, the Hope Peaks being seen very prominently off to the 
right. The river, however, after leaving the station, continues 
for a mile or more in a direct course, and then turning north- 
westward, its bed broadening considerably meanwhile into what 
is known as Devil's Lake, on account of its immense depth. 
Why such a fissure should have here occurred in the bed of the 
river has not been explained, though it is no doubt the result 
of volcanic action, hot springs existing in this region. At the 
terminus of the lake the river again skirts the railway, continu- 
ing in a common course for some fifteen miles, and, meanwhile, 
crossing Ruby Creek and the station of the same name about a 
mile beyond. We learn that the name was given on account of 
the red garnets found here in some abundance. It is here that 
the great lake region of West British Columbia commences, as 
Shuswap was the centre of the eastern region. 

The influence of these bodies of water are seen both in the in- 
creased humidity and the greater luxuriance and variety of the 



124 The Pilgrimage of 



vegetation of the country traversed. Again, taking another 
course due Avest, we soon reach Agassiz, which has, owing to the 
climatic features already been adverted to, been selected by the 
government as a congenial locality for the culture and nurture of 
such plants and cereals as may prove to be most prolific for the 
several provinces of the Dominion, to the end that the results 
attained may contribute to the benefit of agriculture, the 
orchard and the garden. Just north of this, some five miles, 
are found the Hot Sulphur Springs of Harrison, at the southern 
end of a lake of the same name, and the largest of the fresh 
water bodies of this region, and a favored resort, not only for 
invalids but also for tourists — enthusiasts of the rod and gun. 
Off to the southeast some ten miles distant, the conspicuous peak 
of Cheam is seen, supported upon either hand by others of less 
altitude. Eight miles beyond Harrison Station the railway 
crosses the lake-like expansion of the river of the same name, 
above its junction with the Fraser Eiver, that here, too, is of 
similar lake-like expansion. Again, the railway turns to the 
left and takes a southwestern direction for another ten-mile 
stretch, and there passes Nicomen Station from which, it is 
said, Mt. Baker, fifty miles away, in the State of Washington, 
may be seen. But now, having entered a region pervaded with 
the smoke of extensive forest fires, some of which come within 
sight, much of the outlook is limited and a corresponding dis- 
satisfaction expressed by all still eager to scan the landscape. 

Twenty minutes later. Mission Junction is announced, and 
we are switched from the main line of the Canadian Pacific, 
to which we have now become so much attached on account of 
•jur long travel thereupon of some 1,050 miles since leaving 
Moose Jaw, onto a branch terminating at Sumas and thence 
transferred to the International and Seattle Eailway. We now 
cross the Fraser River, to which we also bid adieu for the last 
time. 

AWAY TO THE STATES. 

And now proceeding southward for the Boundary Line that 
separates from the States, a distance of eight miles, we are 



The San Francisco Club. 125 

solicitous of reaching the same as expeditiously as possible. 
Maple Grove is passed upon one-third of the way, and had the 
air not been so surcharged with smoke, it is highly probable 
that we would have seen, off to the southeast, the lofty peak 
of Mt. Baker — the northern bulwark of the Cascade Mountains, 
11,100 feet high. Abbotsford and Huntingdon are passed in 
due order — the latter being the last station at the terminus of 
the Canadian line — Sumas being the first station after crossing 
the International Boundary and in the State of Washington. 
Here the members of the Club again make their exit from the 
Special to imbibe the inspiration of the spot, even though the 
line be an imaginary one. Starting out, however, to find some- 
thing tangible, our attention is called to a post driven firmly 
into the ground and sawed off squarely at a point six inches 
therefrom — the said post being the international point of sepa- 
ration. From this initial point, lifting our eyes to the summit 
of a ridge or mountain running north and south, and heavily 
wooded, we see that a broad swath has been cut through the 
forest from the base to the summit, indicating the course of the 
line, and thus onward, over mountain and valley, hill and dale, 
river and lake, to the very point over which we had crossed at 
Pascal upon our journey north. Call our feelings as we cross 
the line as merely idle, but we insist that they were those of a 
healthy sentiment. And as we leave the Dominion behind us, 
and invade the soil of the State of Washington, the strains of 
"My Country," "Home Again" and other national airs burst 
simultaneously from our lips — evidences these, that temjDorary 
absence from the home-land had but intensified our patriotism, 
not that we loved the Dominion less but our States the more — 
the emblem of which the Stars and Stripes was meanwhile 
waved by some of the more enthusiastic, though not to the dis- 
paragement of the Union Jack, whose ready folds entwined 
therewith demonstrated our gratitude for the protection so late 
enjoyed under its well-known colors — the officials of the entire 
corporation have conspired to make our transit over a portion of 
their soil so safe and so entertaining as verified by every Knight 
and Lady, and as having been pledged to all in anticipation 



126 The Pilgrimage of 



by o\ir omnipresent and thoroughly equipped Committee of Ar- 
rangements. These sentiments we will ever entertain as in the 
subsequent days of our earthly pilgrimage we may retrospect the 
incidents of the Canadian Tour as they, from time to time, pass 
in review before us. 

Xow, however, that the shades of evening have closed in upon 
us, and the "call" to dinner has been heeded, we withdraw special 
consideration of the objects without beyond the fact of our 
passage by the stations of Blaine and Everett, upon this last 
stage of route to Seattle, twenty-six miles away, where we are 
to lie over for some forty-eight hours, as provided for in the 
itinerary, if circumstances are favorable thereto. 

SEATTLE. 

We arrive at Seattle at about 8 :30 o'clock, and as the hour is 
still an early one, the members of the Club thought it in order to 
take a preliminary stroll, at least, upon the main streets of the 
city. Upon alighting from the Special, we are met by a dele- 
gation of Knights of Seattle Commandery No. 1, headed by H. 
W. Carroll, Generalissimo, and escorted to their Temple, for 
purpose of an introduction to the individual members of our 
escort and other resident Knights there assembled. The ma- 
jority of the Knights and their Ladies of the Club accepted the 
in\'itation, and upon our arrival there Sir Knight Carroll greeted 
us with a few words of welcome, assuring us that the hospitali- 
ties of the resident Knights and their friends were extended to 
us, and tliat upon the following day we would have the privilege 
of a personal view of the city and its environs. While his cour- 
teous olfers were not responded to by a set speech, all crowded 
ai'ound bim and his conferrees and gave them our personal as- 
surances of appreciation of their knightly consideration. There- 
u))on breaking up into informal groups, we surveyed the appoint- 
ments of the Temple, which we found in most tasteful form. 

Leaving the Temple, we were conducted to the Musical and 
Audi phone Arcade, where we found an almost inexhaustible 
vnriety of musical slot attachments, so connected that by the 
dropping into the receptacle a small coin almost any popular 



The San Francisco Club. 127 

and classical air was reproduced with all the perfection of the 
original. 

Being thus entertained for a half-hour or more, the members 
of the Club scattered at will to see different trade emporiums 
that were still open, or at least inspect the display windows from 
the sidewalk, for which it is related, as a matter of gossip, that 
the ladies have a marked penchant. Others took the opportunity 
afforded to visit friends of other years, who had migrated thither 
from the East, and be thereby chaperoned to other places of 
interest or entertained in a social way. Among these, the writer 
having previously communicated with a friend who had been 
a resident of the city for some twelve years, was met by him, 
and as he, therefore, was well posted, we learned from him, 
among other matters, the following facts that have materially 
aided in giving us a much broader comprehension of the relative 
importance of the city than we could have received from any 
other available source, and, therefore, to the enhancement of our 
appreciation of the same. Our said friend having been a 
member of the last State Legislature, and being a man of a 
ready and appropriating mind, he had opportunities for absorp- 
tion that did not come within the purview of the average ob- 
server. 

Dilating upon the facilities for indefinite expansion by what 
it had already done, we were compelled to admit that we had 
dropped into no mean city. We were at first inclined to con- 
sider his picture of the outlook as too highly drawn, but when 
our attention was called in the first place to the situation of the 
city, from a commercial standpoint, we became more interested, 
though we had for years been favorably impressed with the 
energy of the people and its rapid development. Taking it, 
therefore, from a geographical standpoint, we note the city as 
the Metropolis of the State, to be situated upon Puget Sound, 
129 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. This part of the 
State, known as the Puget Soimd country in the northeasternly 
portion of Western Washington, lies between the Cascade 
Mountains, on the east, and the Olympic Moimtains on the 
west. The Sound proper includes all the water of the great 



128 The Pilgrimage of 



inland sea, which extends easterly from the national boundary 
line to Olympia. Considering the immense depth of the Sound 
from 60 to 1,000 feet, that the rise and fall of the tide is only 
from nine to eighteen feet, the absence of all sunken reefs and 
other obstructions, and its aggregate coast line of some 1,600 
miles, protected upon all sides by high mountains, it is readily 
seen that it has a harbor in which the vessels of the world could 
ride in safety. The harbor proper, lying along the front of the 
city, is some two miles wide and four miles long, perfectly pro- 
tected from storms and accessible to the largest vessels at all 
times. In addition. Lake Washington, a body of fresh water, 
about 23 miles long, 3 wide and from 50 to 600 feet deep, bound- 
ing the city on the east, is another valuable adjunct. Lake 
L^nion, covering some 900 acres, and Green Lake, about 300 
acres, lie within the city limits. To utilize these latter more 
fully, the Federal Government is constructing a ship-canail 
through the city limits to connect the same with Puget Sound, 
and thereby create a fresh harbor also with a water surface of 
about fifty square miles. This is to cost $6,500,000, and when 
completed the harbor will be unequaled in the world. 




<1> 

o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 129 



CHAPTER XX. 

ITS HISTORY. 

The city was laid out and plotted in 1853, and originally in- 
corporated in 1865 by the territorial government, and reincor- 
porated in 1869. For the first thirty years its growth was slow 
—its population in 1870 being but 1,107, and in 1880 3,533. 
Its population in June last was 147,757. If the city of Ballard 
and other suburban towns adjoining be added, the aggregate 
population would not be less than 170,000. 

The assessed valuation of the property of the city is some 
$66,888,000, the city owning its own water system. The water 
is brought from Cedar Eiver, in the foothills of the Cascade 
Mountains, by gravitation, and is soft and pure. The distance 
from the city is forty miles — twenty-eight miles of which is 
piped, and is capable of supplying 25,000,000 gallons daily, of 
Avhieh 1-4,000,000 only is consumed daily. Of this consumption, 
a revenue is received that netted the city, last year, some 
$383,000. 

The city is lighted principally by electricity. The power for 
this and for the street railway is supplied by Snoqualime Falls, 
twenty-five miles distant, and the falls of Puyallup Eiver. The 
former falls are 268 feet high and are capable of generating 
30,000 horse power, and the latter about an equal amount. In 
addition, two gas plants supply the light in a great measure for 
private consumption. 

The street railway system is one of the best, and covers the 
city with a network of 120 miles, that renders all points ac- 
cessible, and continuous are covered by one fare. The sewer 
system is excellent, the principal streets are paved and perma- 
nent sidewalks have been laid. The public and private parks 
are numerous in different parts of the city, upon the lakes, upon 
higher altitudes and overlooking the Sound. A system of boule- 
vards is already projected to connect all these into one system, 
9 



130 The Pilgnmage of 



and when the same is completed no city will excel Seattle in this 
respect. 

The educational facilities are of a high order, and among 
these the University of Washington, in this city, provides for a 
liberal education, free to the youth of the State. As a valuable 
adjunct to the public school system, the city has a free public 
library of 60,000 volumes for the accommodation of which, in 
a new building, the Hon. Andrew Carnegie has donated $230,000. 

There are four daily newspapers and some sixty weekly and 
monthly periodicals published in the city. 

The 120 churches and church societies provide amply for the 
religious instruction of the people. 

The leading business men's associations are the Seattle Cham- 
ber of Commerce, the Merchants' and the Manufacturers' Asso- 
ciations. 

The climatic and rainfall conditions cannot l)e excelled in 
average equability. 

Hence, with all these as lixed institutions, the bearing there- 
upon of the commerce by the sea, the manufacturing and lumber 
interests, to say nothing of the minor industries mounting into 
the millions, constitute the substantial background for a record 
ihat even now in its infancy almost staggers belief. 

Of the dee])-sea shipping there arrived, of the combined steam 
and sail vessels, the aggregate of 1,123,964 net tons, and de- 
parted of the same the aggregate of 1,141,039 net tons. The 
value of foreign imports, $20,343,552; exports, $12,894,905. 
The value of coastwise receipts, $23,244,987 : shipments, 
$32,171,785. 

Of the manufacturing interests of the city there are, number 
of establishments, 1,400 ; capital invested, $16,000,000 ; value 
of products. $55,000,000; wages paid, $13,000,000; wage earn- 
ers 16,000; shipments of lumber by cargo and railway, feet, 
1,410,572,846; shipments of shingles, by cargo and railway, 
number, 5,722,240,000; cargo of luml)er and singles, 78,465. 

The output of the Puget Sound canneries from five to eight 
millions dollars, according to the run of the salmon. 

Companies output of this industry, from all points, 



The San Francisco Club. 131 



$20,000,000. Coal and coke output, shipped at $3 per ton, 
$9,811,011. 

Bank deposits, $31,762,324; clearances, $206,913,571. 

All the above are the returns of 1893 — all of which show a 
handsome advance upon the previous j^ear. 

Therefore, with all these evidences before us of what may 
be considered to be fixed facts, and the bearing thereupon of the 
commerce by the sea, the manufacturing and the lumber interests 
mounting into many millions, we have inferentially a substantial 
background for a future record that even now in its infancy 
almost staggers belief. 

Having thus shown in brief some of these facts, supplied to 
us by our friend, it becomes a matter of impossibility to give 
other details of architectural features, though, in passing, we 
may speak of the imposing business buildings that stretch unin- 
terruptedly for a half mile along Second avenue, among which 
the Alaska Building, fifteen stories high, is the most conspicuous. 
Also, the Administration Building and Science Hall, of the Uni- 
versity of Washington, and tlie Seattle Public Library (the latter 
of the Corinthian columnar and pilaster style of architecture), 
with the other buildings of the business associations and banks 
already referred to, that in style and solidity of construction will 
successfully rival many of much older cities of the East. The 
many beautiful private residences passed by us, as we viewed the 
height in our trolley trip, whose cost varied, it was said, from 
$3,000 to $50,000, surrounded by most charming grounds, and 
so located as to command most magnificent views of the harbor, 
the Sound, the Olympic and Cascade ranges of mountains, ever 
snow-covered, with the unsurpassed peaks of Mt. Eainier and 
Baker in their isolation as incorruptible sentinels of the ap- 
proaching storm clouds — all unite to make good the most ex- 
travagant claims to which the people of Seattle may aspire. 
In conclusion, therefore, it may be necessary to refer only to 
a special object of interest that is found in this northwest section 
of our country and, to a large degree, indigenous thereto. We 
refer to the Totem Pole and its associations that so conspicuously 
occupies the centre of the Second Avenue Circle Park (if we re- 



133 The Pilgrimage of 



member correctly), that is most interesting to consider in con- 
nection with the superstitions of the Indian tribes of this coast 
in the early days, some of which still stand in their original loca- 
tion among the Aborigines of Alaska. The Seattle Totem is 
specialized for the bird-bill, semi-human features of its carvings 
in very prominent relief, that in their history bear evidence of 
the religious trend of the savage mind in assuming that some 
animal form, such as a bird, deer, wolf, tortoise, or other fa- 
miliar form bore to the individual a supposed relationship and, 
therefore, was properly an emblem of supernatural protection to 
him, and more widely to the clan of which he was a member. 
Hence, it was that these crude images were objects of worship 
as well as of reverential regard. This form of religious super- 
stition was formerly quite widely spread among the Aborigines 
of this and other lands and was so named as totemism, and as 
occupying the next higher grade or stage of worship above the 
fetiishism as known to-day in Africa and Korea, and as ex- 
pressive of the very lowest degradation of the religious subject. 

Having now gotten a pretty good conception of Seattle from 
the different standpoints mentioned, and from interviews with 
old and new-made friends, we are reminded that the time of our 
departure is at hand, and that other numbers of the itinerary 
are about to claim our attention. Therefore, bidding a still 
reluctant farewell to one and all, the members of the Club 
stepped aboard, and the Special moved out of the Union Station 
at about 1 :30 o'clock P. M. 

AWAY FOE THE SOUTH VIA MT. EAINIEE. 

We are now fairly upon our southern journey, and our next 
objective point of Tacoma, forty-one miles away. Unfortu- 
nately, the dense smoke that has pervaded the air and obstructed 
the outlook for the past forty-eight hours still prevails, and that, 
too, to our great regret because of special points of interest 
that had been brought to our attention, both by friends and in 
the course of our reading that we were most desirous of seeing, 
viz, the Cascade to the east and the Olympia ]\rountains to the 
west, of which mention has been already made, that are seen 



The Ban Francisco Club. 133 

upon this section of the railway upon a clear day and the natural 
atmospheric conditions. The chief point or peak of the Cascade 
Mountains that we specially coveted was Mt. Eainier, that we 
expected to grow upon us in its massiveness and grandeur as we 
approached Tacoma, standing as it does in the perpetual mantle 
of snow, 14,526 feet above the sea, bearing evidence in its rugged 
cliffs and ponderous crags of how mighty must have been those 
internal forces of the earth that could have raised such a stu- 
pendous mass toward the sky to such a height, with its possi- 
bilities of glaciered flanking and tumbling cataracts — an assem- 
blage of attractions that have attracted the attention of the en- 
thusiastic tourist of all lands, and is yet in its infancy as the 
centre of the most lofty sublimity among its peers of the snow- 
capped fraternity. Standing higher than jMt. Shasta, of the 
same Cascade range, by 84 feet, higher than Pike's Peak, of the 
Eampart range, of Colorado by 379 feet, and of Long's Peak, 
of the Front range by 255 feet, or of Mt. Massive, near Leadville, 
of Saquache range, by 102 feet, or of Mt. Elbert, near Leadville, 
of Saquache range, by 90 feet, and thus proving itself to be 
among the highest peaks in the United States, so far as is 
known to the writer, being excelled only by Mt. Whitney, of 
California, by 375 feet. We, of course, must also except Alaska, 
the land of mountain giants, Mt. Fairweather being 14,708 feet, 
Mt. St. Elias (estimated) 17,900 feet, and Mt. AVrangle 20,000 
feet. In comparison with the celebrated peaks of the Alps, 
Monte Kosa and Mont Blanc are respectively 15,008 and 15,811 
feet. At all events, we are ready to admit the Mt. Eainier is 
in very respectable company. 

And, too, while speaking in this connection, it may be per- 
mitted to say further that the Federal Government, as in the 
cases of the Yellowstone Park and the Yosemite, has pre-empted 
the region around Mt. Eainier as a Park Eeservation ; and that 
access thereto may be more expeditious and easy, a broad and 
easy graded route is now being surveyed and projected thereto 
under the supervision of a nephew of the writer, who writes in 
the most glowing terms of the magnificent scenery, numerous 
glaciers and waterfalls that he is now constantly gazing upon, 



134 The Pilgrimage of 



and which lie hopes will be open to the public for the coming 
season. We would like to quote some of his language, but space 
and time forbid, and. therefore, we must refrain. 

TACOMA. 

Tacoma, happily called ''The City of Destiny," is announced, 
and the Special comes to a halt in the commodious Union Sta- 
tion. 

Immediately upon alighting the Sir Knights and Ladies are 
met by the local Sir Knights, headed by Em. Sir E. L. McCor- 
mick. formerly of Minnesota, of which he is a Past G-rand Com- 
mander, and now in a business relation, the president of Lumber- 
man's National Bank of Tacoma, in which he has resided for the 
past fifteen years, meanwhile also showing an active interest in 
the welfare of the Fraternity. He and his knightly colleagues 
were very cordial in their greetings, and having learned the 
length of time that we proposed to spend in the city, he in- 
formed us that the resident Sir Knights would personally con- 
duct us through the city as soon as we could arrange to accom- 
pany them, and at a later hour take us thence to the City Park, 
which is one of their most charming centres of attraction. 

Being joined later, also, by Sir Knight Percival C. Kauffman, 
vice-president of the Fidelity Trust Company, a former pupil of 
the writer and resident of the same borough in the days of his 
youth, we were all soon made to feel at home. Having called 
upon the latter at his iDunk, while the clans were gathering, and 
seen how elegantly his quarters were planned and furnished for 
the transaction of business, we were happy to compliment our 
friend for his good fortune in being so well located. The hour 
of our reception by the committee who were to conduct us 
through the city and thence to Point Defiance Park having ar- 
rived, we were coramodiously supplied with trolley accommoda- 
tions, and after noting the many beautiful homes upon the route, 
the names of the proprietors of which being given, we arrived, 
after a twenty-minutes' ride at the Park. Upon the thresh- 
hold of the same we found very extensive horticultural grounds 
and green-houses, and being^ conducted leisurely through the 



The San Francisco Club. 135 

same, it became the universal opinion of all that it was the 
best display of the kind that it had been our pleasure to see 
since our departure from home. The gardens are located upon 
the side of a gentle declivity of southern exposure, improved by 
broad terraces, and divided into sections by converging walks 
that radiate from the grand entrance — the green-houses being lo- 
cated upon the northern elevation, and so conveniently planned 
as to supply ample storage therein during the short inclement 
seasons that prevail in this section. 

Leaving the botanists of our number to specialize their prefer- 
ences and carry away with them such souvenirs as were bestowed 
upon them, we were conducted into the wooded portion of the 
Park, and Avere soon in direct contact with the immense fir trees 
indigenous to the region, many of which showed a girth of from 
forty to fifty feet, their tops piercing the very skies at an alti- 
tude of from 200 to 250 feet. Standing by their gigantic 
trunks, we could only realize our pigmy statures and their colos- 
sal forms — not of one lone monarch of the forest but of scores 
of their equals in immensity. The Park, occupying the slopes of 
the native hills, was diversified by ravines, ponds, rustics, 
bridges and sylvan retreats, beautified in part by the landscape 
woodman, but retaining much of its native wildness. The main 
ravine, or gulch, is crossed by a wide and smoothly graveled 
thoroughfare over its most precipitous and giddy depths — the 
bottom of which is accessible from its mouth by a circuitous 
serpentine path of easy grades from the shore of the bay front. 
To those, however, too eager to resort to this winding way, to 
explore the ravine and pass under the bridge that claims to be 
a natural one, the steep declivity must be descended ; and a faint 
trail thereupon discovered, that required a sure foot and a clear 
head, invited the venturesome to descend. The writer and 
a couple of his companion stalwart Knights accepted the chal- 
lenge and threaded their way successfully to the entrance of 
the tunnel below. Passing through the same, we encountered, 
upon our exit the fallen trunk of one of the aforesaid 
monarchs, and found a ready footpath along the surface of 
its corrugated bark side. We asked an attendant how long 



136 The Pilgrimage of 



it had lain there, supposing from its tolerable state of pres- 
ervation that it had but recently fallen. He replied that he 
supposed that Adam had rested neath its shade or sat upon its 
trunk, and raised Cain meanwhile with the rest of his family 
as he willed. We subsided upon being so forcibly impressed 
with the venerable souvenir. Thence picking our footsteps to 
the mouth of the ravine we followed the devious pathway to the 
higher grounds, being Joined meanwhile by successive instal- 
ments of our company, to again separate in like manner, to visit 
other centres not yet explored, among which we must note the 
Lily Pond, crossed by a rustic bridge that in shape and span re- 
minds one of the Rialto crossing the Grand Canal of Venice, 
but, unlike the latter, a view point as well as a means of transit. 
As our friend, Mr. Kauffman, is a most enthusiastic advocate 
of the (to him) pre-eminent attractions of Tacoma and its 
environs, while at the same time of a most versatile and well- 
stored mind, he entertained all within his reach upon every topic 
suggested — being, we may say, a walking encyclopedia as to sta- 
tistical and observed facts. Hence, we found in him a good 
counterpart to our friend of Seattle, whom we plied so diligently. 

SEATTLE VERSUS TACOMA. 

It did not require much time to discover that there is quite an 
emulation between these two cities, with the advantage upon 
the side of Seattle, on account of its greater age and rapid 
strides toward monopoly of attention before Tacoma could suc- 
cessfully cast off its swaddling bands. Though standing at 
the head of ocean navigation on Puget Sound, it nevertheless 
really dates its birth from July 14, 1873, upon which day the 
commissioners appointed to locate the Puget Sound terminal of 
the Northern Pacific Railway decided upon the site now occu- 
pied by Tacoma. This selection sealed its destiny, as eventually 
a great city. The largest towns at that time in the Pacific 
Northwest were Portland and Victoria. Fourteen years, however, 
elapsed before said railway was completed from its initial to 
to this point. Therefore, its growth was, from this standpoint, 
necessarily slow. In 1880, its population was but 1,098. In 



The San Francisco Club. 137 

1900, the Federal Census puts it at 37,714, which, in turn, at the 
beginning of the present year had increased to 62,643 — an in- 
crease, as per the city directory, in three years of 47.8 per 
centum. The causes of this rapid increase, as communicated 
to us, were, first, its industrial, and, second, its commercial 
development. In support of these, it claims the further su- 
perior advantages of cheap power, possession of the command 
of raw materials at a minimum cost, and direct transfer facilities 
that place the city in touch with the world's markets. Im- 
mense coal deposits are in close and direct communication, and 
it is said that cars loaded with coal from fifty developed mines 
of the State can be run by gravity alone into the capacious bunks 
of the city — the best coking coal being found within thirty miles 
of the port. And here, in passing, it may be well to note that 
the people of this locality lay claim to the monarch peak of the 
Cascades, known in Seattle as Mt. Rainier, but here as Mt. 
Tacoma, and that its name is both prior, and gave its to, the city. 
But of this peak, later. 

In speaking of the immense power available here for indus- 
trial and light purposes, we learned that Tacoma divides with 
Seattle in the productive power of the Snoqualime Falls, that 
are forty-four miles distant — the same being forty miles dis- 
tant from Seattle. In this connection, also, plans are now being 
consummated to secure additional power by utilizing other 
sources to the extent of 100,000 horse-power, or double that of 
Niagara Falls. This city claims, also, to be the leading one 
of the State in the lumber industry. The St. Paul and Tacoma 
Lumber Company, here located, is said to have the largest saw- 
mill in the world, it having cut, in 1892, 100,000,000 feet of 
fir timber and 21,000,000 feet of cedar, spruce and hemlock; 
and, in addition to this, has sawed and shipped 62,000,000 
shingles and 13,000,000 lath, of an output value of $1,500,000. 
Besides this one, there are twenty-five other mills, in addition 
to a large number of planing mills, sash and door factories and 
other wood-utilizing plants. In flour milling and wheat ship- 
ping is easily the chief city of the Northwest Pacific. 

As, however, we have given some of the chief items of com- 



138 The Pilgrimage of 



mercial and industrial interests of Seattle, it is no more than 
just that we should enumerate some of those of Taeoma. As, 
therefore, the pre-eminence of Taeoma has been stated to be 
chiefly in its flour and wheat shipments, it would seem proper 
first to specialize these. Hence, we have flour exports by water 
alone, 1,430,408 barrels; wheat shipments, foreign, 4,293,080 
barrels; lumber shipments, 131,986,466; lumber, cut, 331,700,000 
feet; shingle output, 380,000,000 pieces; value of latter two, 
$4,609,000; factories, 332 : capital of the same $16,852,000; fac- 
tory employes, 8,811; monthly pay-roll, $527,645; industrial 
output $29,814,397; wholesale trade, $26,834,000; salmon ship- 
ments, foreign, 188,240 cases, value, $870,000 ; deep-sea de- 
partures, 844; outward cargo tonnage, 1,100,550; grain ware- 
house capacity, 5,152,000 bushels; coal exports, 468,738 tons; 
coal bunker capacity, 22,000 tons; total ocean commerce, 
$35,854,066; bank clearings, $98,263,310; imports, foreign, 
$7,874,991 ; domestic, $5,232,855 ; exports, foreign, $13,088,102 ; 
domestic, $9,678,118; tea imports, $9,311,197 pounds; value, 
$1,656,152; oriental export trade, $7,743,993; matting imports, 
8,469,145 yards, valued at $704,043. 

Eeturning to the city, we note, in passing some of the most 
prominent public buildings, many of which exhibit a high degree 
of massive elegance and harmony of proportions. We may men- 
tion but a few, as the Court House, the Carnegie Library, the 
City Hall, the Chamber of Commerce, the Lumbermen's Na- 
tional Bank, National Bank of Commerce, the Fidelity, the Equi- 
table and Provident Banks, with other prepossessing buildings. 

We note, also, a number of private residences that are attrac- 
tive for the architectural taste displayed thereon, that has in- 
volved quite an expenditure of wealth in the construction and 
adornment. Among these, in addition to the beautiful home 
of our friend and chief chaperon, we note the private residences 
of Hon. Benjamin Grosscup, J. Henry Hewitt, Jr., capitalist; 
Col. C. W. Griggs, president, St. Paul and Taeoma Lumber 
Company; William Jones, a wheat king; William Bowen, Esq., 
Marshal K. Snell and others. 



The San Francisco Club. 139 



CHAPTER XXI. 

THE RECEPTION. 

At length reaching the railway terminal, the Sir Knights and 
Ladies repair to the Special, feeling it obligatory upon them to 
exchange their travel-worn clothing for something more at- 
tractive for evening dress — the Club iiaving been invited to be 
the guests of a reception at the Masonic Temple. Hence, we 
there assembled at about 8 :30, and found the main reception 
room brilliantly lighted and prepared for our entertainment. In 
due time, Past Em. Grand Commander Sir R. L. McCormick, 
of whom we have already spoken, delivered a very appropriate 
address of welcome, rich in incident and expressive of good taste. 
To this a response was made by Em. Sir William Donaldson, of 
Pilgrim Commandery, and the representative of the Grand 
Lodge of Pennsylvania, in a few appropriate words. 

Our said friend, Sir Knight P. C. Kaufman, then read an ap- 
propriate paper that had been prepared for some previous popu- 
lar assembly, relating certain facts and incidents in connection 
with the history of Tacoma, among which we noted the reasons 
why the citizens thereof to the "manor born" insist that their 
mountain neighbor should be called Mt. Tacoma, and not ]\It. 
Rainier. We admit that we are not sufficiently learned in 
archaeological and Indian lore to accompany him and trace the 
name to its origin, though, to be candid, we feel assured that 
the name Tacoma cannot successfully be assigned an Indian 
signification, and upon the ground of unprejudiced sources, that 
in the end the name of Rainier will outlive that of Tacoma 
among those that have no local pride in perpetuating the latter 
name. 

At the conclusion of the formalities there was a general com- 
mingling of Knight and Lady, and thus a most pleasant evening 
was spent in social converse and of further absorption upon our 
part of matters relating to our beloved Order in these local con- 



140 The Pilgrimage of 



nections. Among the gleanings of the evening we learned that 
the present temple is one of very recent construction, and that 
the corner-stone thereof was laid so lately as May 33, 1903, by 
the M. W. Grand Lodge of F. and M. Masons of the State of 
Washington — John Arthur, G. M., assisted by Bro. Theodore 
Eoosevelt, President of United States of America. The Knights 
Templar of the jurisdiction acted as escort; 300 Masons arrayed 
in white aprons assisted in the ceremony. The President used 
a silver trowel that was afterwards presented to him. The words 
of the President, though few, were well conceived and are re- 
corded as treasured souvenirs. 

The design of the Temple is oriental. Its front elevation 
faces upon St. Helens avenue and extends through the block to 
South D street. It is 75 feet wide, 134 feet deep on the north 
side and 108 feet on the south, is 60 feet high, and was erected 
at the cost of $52,500. Thirteen Masonic bodies of the different 
degrees and names meet within its portals, and, therefore, it has 
an ample constituency to keep it in a flourishing condition. The 
first story is of Teniono sandstone, and the stories above of 
pressed brick, with terra cotta ornamentation. The second story, 
where the reception was lield, is a social hall for Masonic and 
other purposes, and is said to be the finest reception room in 
the city. The room is 66 feet long, by 55 feet wide, and ex- 
clusive of the stage, is eighteen and a half feet high. It is fur- 
nished, besides the stage, with a dressing room, balcony, check- 
room, ticket office and toilet rooms. Adjoining, there is a ban- 
quet room, 35x67 feet, with kitchen and pantry room. The 
third floor is devoted to Blue Lodge room, the Commandery, 
Chapter and Scottish Eite rooms. Each of these is provided 
with its own ante-rooms, closets, etc. The Masonic Library is 
also upon this floor, and is 15 by 30 feet, with a smoking room, 
14 by 31 feet. 

It is, therefore, seen that the Fraternity in Tacoma is not ex- 
celled by many of its peers in any locality, and successfully rivals 
that of Seattle. 

The hour of separation, however, approaches, parting words 
are spoken, bon voyages are invoked, and all return to the Special 



The San Francisco Club. 141 

♦ 
content to close the day by an interview with Somnus, whose 
embrace is ever acceptable. By 11:30 we were en route for 
Portland with the intermediate smoky territory shut out under 
the shades of night, and, therefore, the view thus compromised 
was not much regretted. 

PORTLAND. 

We reach Portland on schedule time on the morning of the 
28th, and are here met by our first cloudy day since leaving St. 
Paul. Breakfast being despatched, many set out to see some- 
thing of the city, while en route to the Portland House which 
for the day has been made headquarters. The writer, with his 
companion and some other of the Knights and their Ladies, upon 
leaving the said house, went to church at such points as were the 
most convenient. The sermon we heard was a good, practical 
one, though not so ornate as many we have heard — the pastor 
being absent upon his vacation, and the substitute being a former 
pastor. The speaker was somewhat advanced in years, but from 
observation we concluded that he must have been a man of mark 
when in his prime. We were pleased to discover that the prefer- 
ences of the Knights present were like our own in the selection 
of the church, and, the services concluded, we passed out to- 
gether. 

Moreover, this locality being near the residential part of the 
cit}^ of the lowlands, the writer and his companion made a 
detour through this section in returning to headquarters, and 
were fully compensated by the appearance of the very elegant 
mansions occupying, in some cases, the centre of a quarter, a 
half, or even a whole block, and surrounded by a forest of flow- 
ers, rare exotic plants and ornamental shrubbery and trees, that 
showed the possession of great wealth upon the part of the pro- 
prietors, and the handiwork of the skilled horticulturist. 

We return to the Portland, loiter about its broad corridors, 
recline upon its easy chairs and kixuriate in its handsome recep- 
tion rooms. Being the headquarters, also, of the resident com- 
manderies of the city, the Knightly colors and emblazoned in- 
signia of the Order relieve the fixed appointments of the hos- 



142 The Pilgrimage of 



telry and thus present an ensemble that will be one of the 
cynosures of memory in connection with our stay in this city. 

Upon any other day than the one now set apart for a brief 
sojourn here, the opportunities for sight-seeing would have been 
improved to the full — the city having a site most admirable for 
the development of a broad exhibit of improvements and much 
beauty of detail. The land gradually rises from the river to the 
west and southwest, and then suddenly ascends with a marked 
elevation of elongated hills, varied by low intercepting depres- 
sions that make the same particularly inviting for the erection 
thereon of elegant and picturesque homes. These elevations are 
ascended and in part engirt by winding trolley and carriage- 
ways that afford frequent view-points of the lower city, that is 
mostly occupied by business houses, factories and the homes of 
the earlier residents and the rank and file of their dependencies. 
The highest point of the said elevations is known as Robinson's 
Hill, from which, upon a clear day, a most extensive and mag- 
nificent view is obtained. From this vantage point it is pos- 
sible, upon a clear day, to see five lofty peaks, always snow- 
covered, within the radius of a hundred miles — the most con- 
spicu(ms being IVIt. Hood, of an altitude of 11,235 feet, about 
fifty miles distant in an air-line. Owing, however, to the smoke 
]iow ])revailing along the coast section for many miles that has 
been prevalent now for a fortnight or more, these interesting 
points cannot, at this juncture, be seen from the locality men- 
tioned. The ridge being considerably broadened near the high- 
est point, the railway makes a loop about the eastern, northern 
and western flanks of the hill and, therefore, affords views from 
a number of places. Upon returning to the point of separation 
at which the loop is commenced, a fine view^ of the Columbia 
Hiver i?-. had, as it stretches in a line toward its nearest approach 
to the [)()int of observation, twelve miles distant, at which place 
it is a large stream, and the Willamette stretches away to meet 
it until lost in the distance. It is recalled that the location of 
the city is distant twelve miles from the junction of the latter 
with the Columbia, and that thence to the Pacific Ocean is 103 
miles addition. But though thus distant the channel of the 



The San Francisco Club. 143 

said rivers is deep, and vessels of considerable tonnage here load 
and unload at the wharfs. Although older than either Seattle 
or Tacoma, the people of this city do not seem to have improved 
their advantages in the same ratio as said cities, and though 
heretofore considered to be the Metropolis of the Pacific North- 
west, yet that palm is slipping away and should even now be 
given to Seattle. Its combined population is but a little above 
100,000. Having no friend, however, here, as in the case of 
the said cities, we have not learned so fully of the returns of 
its annual trade, or of its march in the line of city improvements. 

It was first settled in 1843, and incorporated into a city in 
1851. Its location is so favorable for development that it seems 
to be inexcusable that greater enterprise has not been shown in 
diverting to this port a greater share of the products of the soil 
of the prolific region in such easy reach, and their transshipment 
to other centres. Hence, in this connection, it is said that the 
\Yillamette Valley traverses some 4,000,000 acres of land, the 
greater part of which is under cultivation. 

There are five railways that have terminals at Portland, three 
of which are either direct or have connections with trans-conti- 
nental lines, and, therefore, aft'ord an outlet for a vast region in 
the interior. The Columbia and the Willamette rivers have a 
world-wide reputation for their salmon fishing, as well as means 
for general transportation, and, therefore, supply an almost in- 
exhaustible basis for the further expansion of the canning in- 
dustry, that is already most profitable, and utilizes an immense 
investment of capital that has been attracted thitherward. 

The streets of the city are well lighted by electricity, supplied 
by works belonging to the city corporation. The water is sup- 
plied by an aggregate of fifty miles of water mains, with a 
pumping capacity of 20,000,000 gallons per day, and a daily 
consumption of 5,000,000 gallons. The source of the water 
supply is the Willamette, some five miles above the city. With 
all these acquired and natural advantages, it must also ere long 
make more rapid strides as a centre of varied industries, with the 
already acquired advantage of being the third richest city of the 
nation in proportion to its population. These facts cannot, 



144 The Pilgdmage of 



therefor, remain in a semi-dormant state for a time indefinite, 
and, hence, a lively rivalry between the trio of cities of the coast 
will soon be on, and wax even to a white heat in the contest for 
commercial and trade supremacy. 

Upon a consultation of the itinerary, it is seen that the 
schedule calls for a night departure southward, and, therefore, 
the members of the Club gather at an early hour at the Special 
for a 7 P. M. dinner, and this being despatched, a few social 
interchanges, and the usual song service in the Observation Car 
duly participated in, brought the experiences of the day to a 
close, with all more or less prepared for an early retirement, pre- 
paratory, at least upon a partial scale, to the railway incidents 
of Canada, of mountain gorges and snow-capped heights, and 
the scenes incident to these superb exhibitions of nature. 

And now, as we glide along to "dumb forgetfulness a prey," 
we are reconciled to the facts of the situation, because, if in our 
wakeful moments we attempt to pierce the darkness from our 
hammock window, we discover that another sovereignty has 
taken possession of the outer world, and that 

"Night, sable goddess ! from her ebon throne, 
In rayless majesty, now stretches forth 
Her leaden sceptre o'er a slumbering world. 
Silence how dead ! and darkness how profound ! 
Not eye, nor listening ear, an object finds ; 
Creation sleeps. 'Tis as the general pulse 
Of life stool still, and Nature made a pause; 
An awful pause! prophetic of her end." 

The sentiment of the poet would have been complete had it not 
been for the conflicting noise of the flying Special, as it cleaved 
its way through the gloom ; and yet it is but the expression of a 
truism to say that it is the exception that proves the rule. As 
the thought, therefore, was suggested to our mind, while peering 
into the outer darkness, as among the treasures culled and stored 
in the alcoves of memory during the later days of youth, we can 
but reproduce them as at least a partial background, or, like 



The San Francisco Club. 145 

the sentiment awakened by the associations of the wakeful day. 
Hence, the seeming departure from the more sunny reflections of 
the landscape vision. 

THE MOEN OF THE 29TH. 

The early morning finds us far across the State of Oregon, 
upon our prescribed way; and upon the despatch of breakfast, 
we again resume our waking habit to take note of our surround- 
ings. We find ourselves rolling along, at an average rate, up 
the valley of the Rogue Eiver, with evidences upon every hand 
that ere long we shall again invade the higher altitudes. The 
valley here is some three miles wide and bounded by high hills 
that have not yet reached the altitude of mountains, and .covered 
to a considerable extent with a heavy growth of timber that 
awaits the axe of the woodman and the further demands of 
civilization. Moreover, we are also upon the outlook for "human 
habitations and a name." Hence, we soon pass Jacksonville, 
that, with a population of from 800 to 900, and the appearance 
of its public buildings must be a village of some note as a country 
town. We learned that it was the county seat of Jackson 
County. 

ASHLAND. 

Medford next comes into view, some seven miles beyond the 
last-named station, with which it is connected by a wagon road- 
way at the shorter distance of four miles, thereby showing the 
winding course that the railway must often take to reach a point 
of much less air-line distance. This, with the next station of 
Phoenix, appears to be a flourishing and neat little town. And 
now, with whetted appetite, we begin to grow somewhat im- 
patient to see more positive evidences of popular activity in addi- 
tion to the mere railway flag station, as we complete our climb 
of 500 feet above Jacksonville, which we have left some nine- 
teen miles at our rear, as we glide into the beautiful town of 
Ashland, the centre of interest and the largest iovm of the 
Eogue Eiver Valley. It is situated near the base of the Siskion 
10 



146 The Pilgrimage of 



Mountains, at an altitude of about 1,900 feet above the sea level. 
Its history dates from 1850, and it was here that the last spike 
connecting the Oregon and the California end of the railway 
upon which we are now traveling was driven by Charles Crocker, 
of San Francisco, December 17, 1887, a fact that gave a fresh 
impetus to its energies already partially developed. The locality 
is noted for its pure air, equable temperature and attractive 
scenery, and, therefore, it was not long before the place became 
quite a resort for tourists, while its school and other advantages, 
as the seat of the State Normal School, have added justly to 
its natural merits. It is also the station of nearest communica- 
tion with the nearby White Sulphur Springs, that are also held 
in high repute. Its chief sol^rces of support are the successful 
fruit-growing and grain production — the returns from which 
are shipped in large quantities to other markets upon the line 
and other more distant points. It was at this station that quite 
a pleasant episode occurred that the members of the Club will 
recall with much pleasure. The leading citizens, having heard 
of our approaching Special, under the auspices of the Board of 
Trade, had gathered ere our arrival a large supply of peaches — 
the first that we had seen since our departure from the States; 
and, each specimen being neatly wrapped in napkin paper, that 
made, in the aggregate, a huge pyramid, was piled upon an im- 
provised table at the railway station. The same having been 
placed under the charge of some half-dozen young ladies of at- 
tractive mien, samples of the fruit were presented to each 
Knight and Lady, with the compliments of the donor. And so 
marked was this courtesy, and at the same time so suggestive 
of its simplicity that we were not only delighted therewith, but 
there was manifested a general desire to interview the fair 
benefactresses that so modestly represented the largess of the 
locality — a spirit that is supposed to be the true exponent of 
the gallant Knight, and, hence, most readily to be recognized 
in those dominated by a kindred spirit. Hence, it was, we 
think, excusable upon the part of the recipients of such gentle 
favors to indulge, in turn, in pleasant badinage, or to secure the 
privilege at least of a kodak-snap as a souvenir. The writer 



The San Francisco Clnh. 147 

admits that he was one that interviewed at least one of the most 
attractive of the said distributors of favors, though he does deny, 
what was jocosely mooted around, that he was desirous, with 
malice aforethought, of making an impression upon the sup- 
posed susceptible one. Hence, while making this counter alle- 
gation, he does confess that he has ever had a penchant for 
beauty, whether embodied in the form of the blushing maiden 
or in the full-blown maturity of the more classic mould of the 
matron. 

"All aboard" interrupts the coteries of interviewers, and, as 
obedience is the first law of the loyal Knight, we heed the sum- 
mons, and leave behind us, we trust, pleasant and suggestive 
recollections. We treasure them as such, and store them among 
the imperishables. 




d/ w \!/ 
o o o 



148 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXII. 

THE CASCADE EANGE. 

Eesuming our Pilgrimage, and climbing to the levels beyond, 
we find the road becoming more tortuous and the scenery wilder 
as we approach the mountain ramparts. Coming, now, into 
closer contact with the Cascade Range, its undulating summit 
lines grow into stronger relief against the sky. And, looking 
backward, the conspicuous peak of Mt. Pitts lifts its crest far 
toward the sky, though admitting that it soon must yield the 
palm to the monarch of the southern section, ■ Mt. Shasta, that, 
in turn, is second only to its colleague of the northern section, 
that dominate the entire Cascade. The other peaks that divide 
the attention are Mts. Scott. Trelson and Diamond, that per- 
form, each, their part in the role, and though they may not be 
iirst, they still may claim the right to be partners in the grim 
■contest that is being continually waged with the denuding agents 
of the ages. But the obstacles still to be encountered are be- 
coming still more refractory, and the overhanging cliffs still 
more threatening, while the engineering difficulties have reached 
the maximum of successive fianking by successful detours and, 
therefore, tunneling must be resorted to. Hence, soon after 
commencing the ascent of the first arm of the double loop after 
crossing a couple of mountain torrents, whose deep way-worn 
channels, as seen from the spanning bridges, proclaim their 
age, we enter a tunnel of about a fourth of a mile long, and, 
emerging therefrom, pursue a tolerably straight course in the 
same southeasterly direction upon the rock-hewn way, with a 
perceptibly increasing elevation, when, in passing Steinman, 
we learn that we have ascended upwards of 1,100 feet since 
leaving Ashland. 

Thence bounding along about three miles farther, the railway 
crosses Carter Creek and the North Fork at their junction, and 
thus find room sufficient for a sweep prior to a doubling back 



The San Francisco Club. 149 

upon itself for a further climb, but now taking a course in the 
opposite direction, viz, northwest up the precipitous slope of 
the mountain above opposing spurs, over giddy tressels, and 
thence through another tunnel, of another spur too formidable to 
double, nearly a half-mile in length. Emerging from this, 
another bold detour to the right, and another to the left brings 
the Special face to face with a giant obstruction, and now 
naught is left us but another plunge into a tunnel, and that, 
too, at such a situation that the difficulties demand another 
loop — the curve of which occurs in the centre of the tunnel — 
the combined arcs of which constitute a semi-circle. Our course, 
however, is still upward, but now, again, in an opposite direction, 
or southeast in line with the direction taken before the first 
loop was made — the combined course to reach the summit of 
the Siskiyon Mountain being that of an elongated Z. And 
still our course continues up the last arm of the Z, and at the 
end of each curve new heights and separating canons are re- 
vealed, with the forest growth now left behind, and a less ob- 
structed outlook and an intensified feeling to let nothing be 
lost that might mar the complete picture. The changes are, 
however, so rapid that it would require a revolving kodak with 
radial sensitive plates to catch the changes, and thus piece the 
whole into one continuous panorama. The station of Siskiyon 
is, however, at length reached and the summit of 4,135 feet 
above the sea is jotted down — the rise from Ashland, seventeen 
miles away, being upon an average of 243 feet per mile. It is 
said that the name of the mountain and station has its origin 
in the Indian lore of the locality, as meaning the "site or place 
of the council." That is, it is said that in the period of the 
original vigor of the Shasta, Rogue Eiver and Klamath tribes 
of Indians, that these were wont to assemble upon a plateau of 
the nearby mountain heights and confer in friendly contests of 
games, dancing, etc., or in deliberate council, under the aroma 
of the pipe of peace, and thus, for a season at least, lay aside 
the bow and the tomahawk. 



150 The Pilgrimage of 



MT. SHASTA. 

Looking around, we take our bearings. To the southeast, Mt. 
Shasta rears its lofty head with other only less prominent peaks 
in contrast with the monarch of the range. The variety of 
the lowlands in valley, lake and river unite to complete a pros- 
pect — the like of which, as a whole, we shall not see paralleled, 
at all events upon our Southern route, if indeed among the 
Sierra Nevadas of the eastern border. And here, again, it is 
suggested, would be the opportunity for the artist to emulate 
Nature in delineating the immense outlines and, if possible, 
transcribe the complete picture in miniature upon the canvas. 
But let us not indulge in vain regrets for the limitations of 
human capabilities, but rather proclaim our gratitude that such 
a feast of vision is allowed us, even though the retention of the 
picture be also fleeting, as traced upon the retina of memory. 

But the descent has already commenced, now north, now 
east, and now the supreme efforts of the engineer must again 
be called into requisition, after a vertical descent of a thousand 
feet, we are forced to plunge into a tunnel four-fifths of a mile 
long, which is the longest of the mountain route. Emerging 
from the same, our route is now northeast, our way being 
bordered for the most part by bare and weather stained rocks, 
and, hence, cliff and gorge come more palpably into view with 
all their nakedness and mining depths. Evidences also appear 
upon all sides of the volcanic origin of these rocky ramparts 
and canons, and, therefore, it is but to be expected that mineral 
and hot springs must, more or less, abound. Hence, we have 
Colestin Spring, upon the line of road, some three miles from 
Siskiyon, at a drop of 625 feet, and further on, at Ager Sta- 
tion, a stage connection conveys to Klamath Spring, eighteen 
miles distant, the frequent visitors to that place of resort, which 
is at an altitude of 3,700 feet, or 450 feet below Siskiyon Sum- 
mit, and abounds in various kinds of springs, as soda, cold iron, 
hot sulphur and hot iron, and the famous "mud baths," to which 
even the Indians were wont to resort in the times of the Abo- 
riffines. 



The San Francisco Club. 151 

Upon passing Colestin, the road makes a curve westward, then 
north, then east, and then, again, by a broad sweep, to the 
southwest, until upon reaching Cotton-wood Creek, at its conflu- 
ence with the Xorth Fork of the same, it then takes a northwest 
course along the latter and passes out of the State of Oregon into 
California, some two miles beyond Cole's Station. 

Montague next is passed, ten miles beyond Ager, and is im- 
portant more on account of its connections than otherwise, being 
the junction of this road with the Yreka Railroad, that runs to 
the town after which the railway is named, and is the county seat 
of Siskiyon County, with whose mountain range we have just 
had such wonderful railway experiences. This station is the 
place of residence of those that are chiefly engaged in lumbering, 
mining and cattle herding, for which the contiguous valleys 
afford means for development. And yet, upon the whole, there 
is but little change in our surroundings, for, leaving this station, 
we again ascend into mountain fastnesses, with their naked and 
frowning cliffs, with but little exemption from sharp curvatures 
in our transit to Edgewood, twenty miles beyond, that is well 
named from the fact that from here commences a heavier 
forest growth, which, in passing, we observe to be primeval, and, 
hence, in reserve for the lumbermen of the future. Upton, at 
the end of the next fifteen-mile stretch, is the next point that 
is chiefly important for its connections to points more or less 
removed from our line, and of which the sportsman and the 
angler take advantage to reach the St. Cloud River section of 
country by the railway of the same name that starts from 
Upton — a region that is celebrated far and wide for its fish- 
abounding streams and verdant canons fed by the glaciers in 
chief of the ubiquitous Shasta, whose shadow we are now ap- 
proaching. Our climb still continues, as we round Muir's Peak, 
that, in its serrated and abrupt cliffs, towers some 3,000 feet 
above our heads in black crater-like rifts and thereby reveal 
the volcanic origin of the mountain pile. Had it not so many 
counterparts in the region, its study would interest the geologist 
as well as landscape enthusiast. Mt. Shasta camping grounds 
are passed, with its inviting nooks and shady retreats that are 



153 The Pilgrimage of 



taken advantage of by the yearly sojourners of the locality, hard 
by the monarch of the region whose lofty dimensions now 
monopolize the view as we approach Sisson. Standing, as it 
does, 14,442 feet above the sea, that, at this point, is 100 miles 
distant in a bee-line, it offers no apology for the monopoly,, 
while defying adverse criticism either as to its height, bulk, 
capabilities of outlook or date of birth. While it is true that in 
the last-named respect we have not the same means of deter- 
mining when its mountain pile was elevated, as in the case of 
Mt. Stephen, of the Canadian Eockies, still we know that the 
evidences are legion of its volcanic origin, and that even now 
the slumbering fires in its lowest bowels show some disturbance, 
by the fact that from a rift in the surface rocks near the summit 
there issues forth hot steam and noxious fire-generated vapors 
that w^arn even the intrepid climber not to presume too much 
upon his audacity if he would live to again descend to the vales 
of terra firma below. 

And, here, we may say that it might be well and somewhat 
interesting to mention some of the details of the geological data 
by which the age of the crust of such mountain and other forma- 
tions is, at least approximately, determined, as based upon the 
assumption of the original molten condition of the mass, and 
the rate of cooling as the crust thickens and the ratio of radiation 
diminishes. Suffice it to say that the rate of elevation of tem- 
perature, as revealed by the data at the bottom of the deepest 
mines, justifies the conclusion that at a depth of four times 
greater than the height of Shasta that the heat is so intense that 
the most refractory rocks known would be melted thereby, and 
thus add their increment to the volume of the liquid sea of fire 
that now dashes its waves incessantly against the walls of its 
earthly enclosure. That these fires do, however, approach nearer 
the surface at some places than the average indicates, is ad- 
mitted, and that these cases are almost without exception near 
the sea, as if the fissured bottom of the latter was wont oft- 
times to admit its waters into such warm contacts, and to be- 
come thereby converted into superheated steam, that must find 
a vent somewhere, and that in the direction of the least re- 



The San Francisco Club. 153 

sistance, to one of which, upon a small scale, we have above ad- 
verted, goes also without saying. The substantial facts do, 
nevertheless, remain uncontroverted, and the thickness of the 
crust is but a shell as compared to the mass of the enclosed. 
But enough of this about the crust that even hereabouts appears 
to be sufficiently thick and strong to bear the Special, and, there- 
fore, we will return from our flight to its inviting quarters, for 
fear that some of the "upper social crust" thereof, to which 
my wife aspires, may clip our plumes and command us to confine 
ourselves, at least, to the surface of things. Hence, we return, 
to note a little further the visible of Shasta's exterior. The 
perpetual snow line descends to a point of about 9,000 feet from 
the base, thus leaving some 2,500 feet of snow pack to be tra- 
versed by the adventurous mountain climber. As, however, the 
journey to the summit takes the best part of two days, we, of 
course, can only feast our eyes upon its possibilities, and take 
for granted what has been revealed by those that have stood 
upon its topmost peak. The view from that point is said to 
command a sweep of vision from the arid plains of Nevada, in 
the East, to the water-washed shores of the Pacific, and from 
the central peaks of Oregon, toward the North, to the mountain 
enclosed valley skirting hard upon the environs of San Fran- 
cisco. We repress a rising feeling of disappointment that we 
are not so privileged, but resolve, in lieu thereof, to utilize to 
the full what is, and still may be, open to our visual capabilities. 
Hence, from this and the successive view-points, we note the 
varying outlines of the upper works. Therefore, three different 
views show the mountain, as divided into two main elevations, 
separated by a moderate depression, of apparently equal girth 
for some considerable distance above their point of separation, 
and from thence one peak suddenly inclines to its summit, 
while the other continues onward for the distance of 2,000 feet 
or more, as shown by a fourth view for a better point of observa- 
tion — each preserving, in the main, the usual sugar-loaf curves 
of a broad-based cone. And, when suffused by the softened 
glare of the early afternoon sun, the recollections of its stately 
form arrayed in its snowy vestments will occupy a prominent 



154 The Pilgrimage of 



niche among like treasures of mountain mementoes. And here, 
we may say in passing, that having been robbed of our view 
of Eainier by the smoky atmosphere, we are constrained to say 
that Mt. Shasta bears the pahn of the highest peak that the 
Pilgrimage has revealed to our eyes, and the like of which we 
shall not see again in close rivalry until the monsters of 
Colorado, of the Sagauche Range, near Leadville, enter in com- 
petition. In taking in, therefore, the situation, as presented 
from Sisson, we can readly see why this locality has been so 
long a favorite with the tourist public — the early date at which 
the proprietor settled here, after whom the place is named, and 
built himself a home, early identified him with the early history 
of Strawberry Valley, as the contiguous valley is called, and was 
the original circumstance that directed the attention of the 
public thitherward. The completion of the railroad met every 
remaining difficulty, inclusive of a want of rapid transit, and 
from that day the Sisson Tavern became a fixed fact, that has 
never since wanted patronage, either among those or their 
friends who, having once dwelt among the attraction of the 
monarch, have desired to refresh their memories of the same 
by again climbing his welcome peaks, or by resting content 
at his paternal base amid the glories of his sunshine and the 
security of his shadow. 




<i/ W \1> 
o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 155 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

A EELUCTANT DEPAETUEE. 

Leaving Sisson, we enter upon another down-grade by a line 
slightly varying westward from our southern course, and at 
Azalea, some three miles beyond Sisson, have descended about 
200 feet. Thence, by a southeasterly course we make a similar 
drop in about the same distance, and thence pass out from the 
canon, under the protection of the wall-like cliffs of Mt. Scott, 
to the quiet little station of Mott. This, also, is a place of con- 
siderable patronage on account of the wildness of its environ- 
ment. Standing upon the very threshhold of the Sacramento 
Eiver canon, that here commences to make as many crooks and 
reverse curves as are possible to railway engineering, and sug- 
gestive of those encountered upon the flanks of the Siskiyon, 
the Special braves the difficulties of the way, though for a mile 
or more the distant view is unobstructed, in looking back at Mt. 
Shasta, that seems to have grown no less since our departure 
from Sisson, while looking forward to our right, the outjutting 
cliffs of Castle Crags appear beyond the forest slopes cropping 
out in the canon just before us. And here, again, a reverse 
course is taken for another stretch of three miles or more, in a 
northwestern direction, by a further drop of 370 feet to reach 
the head waters of the Sacramento Eiver, that its valley, in 
turn, may be utilized as the only available route to reach the 
lowlands toward which our course lies. And, though we per- 
ceive that the most southern point reached since leaving Mott 
was not more than a half-mile in an air-line to Shasta Springs, 
yet to reach this latter station a descent of about 600 feet has 
been made in a distance of about three miles — of the two sec- 
tions of the track, the one to the northwestern loop, and the 
other and reverse to the said springs, being the one above the 
other, and at no time being farther apart than forty or fifty feet, 
had the courses been upon the same horizontal plane, at least 



156 The Pilgrimage of 



so far as the eye could determine. Meanwhile, the channel of 
the river is at a much lower depth, leaping along upon a like 
grade, and at last closely infringed upon as the Special makes 
its last detour therefrom to the east to round the station of 

SHASTA SPEINGS, 

where the Special comes to a stop for a rest of some forty- 
five minutes. The group of houses upon each side of the 
station burst suddenly upon the approaching train like an 
apparition in their oriental finish, flanked by fountains shoot- 
ing their columns in foaming, snowy jets high into the air, while 
their receiving basins beside the footway overflow with their 
surcharged waters, impregnated with mineral flavors of alleged 
medicinal qualities. But, like the craze for the appetizing con- 
diment of olives, upon which the epicure dilates so eloquently, so, 
it appeared to us, that a like educational qualification is required 
to induce the bibulous subject to affirm that these waters are 
nectar, and the gases therewith generated like unto the attar 
of roses. At least, such was our opinion, and hence, we pre- 
ferred to remain a novice rather than become a connoisseur by 
indulgence in sundry libations from the flowing bowl. Sir 
Knight Eudy disagreed with us, and so he Avent in. What was 
the result? deponent saith not. 

Just at the left of the main spring pagoda, we see an elevated 
building, with rear platform extension, and, approaching to 
examine it more closely, it is readily discovered to be the 
terminal building of a steep incline railway, with car duly 
rigged thereon, for the purpose of passenger transportation to 
some distant elevated point, we know not where. We noted also, 
not far removed, a long, zigzag footpath, meandering also ap- 
parently in the same direction, though its upper terminus was 
also lost to the sight. It was, however, self-evident that these 
roadways, so elaborately constructed for the benefit of supposed 
patrons must lead somewhere, unlike the original conception 
of the jNTorthern Pacific Eailway, which was facetiously de- 
nounced by its opposers, when originally projected, as com- 
mencing nowhere and ending at a like terminus. The venture, 



The San Francisco Club. 157 

however, was made by a half score of the Sir Knights and their 
Ladies — the writer included in the number — and we entered the 
car, while the great majority of the Club by common consent 
were seen trooi^ing up the steep, but smoothly graded, foot-path. 
As the crowd ascended, an emulation suddenly seized the 
greater number to be the first to scale the fancied heights in 
the upper regions, but, spurt as they would, "the girl in blue" 
persisted in leading the van, and when the car touched the 
upper landing she, too, was there, ready to inquire why we de- 
layed so long upon the way, even though propelled by other 
than muscular power. We could make no defence, other than 
cast the blame upon our motor, which, by the sequel, proved to be 
inferior to hers. She gave us the benefit of the doubt, as the car 
disgorged, and the remaining pedestrians, blowing like por- 
poises, reached the brow of the plaza, while all halted to take our 
bearings. And, if surprised at the revelations of the lower level, 
the beauty of the scene before us was a climax, both of surprise 
and of other pleasurable emotions. Here, spread in elliptical 
curvature, was a plaza as level as a pond covered with luxuriant 
grass closely shaven, except as interrupted by gravel walks 
radiating from the plaza centre, and bordered by perfect forms 
of mountain oak, ash and evergreens of blending hues — a broad 
promenade wallv, circumscribing the whole, the outer periphery 
of the latter being also circumscribed by a line of cottages, to 
which ingress is made from the aforesaid promenade. Noting 
the cottages especially, it is seen that their gables front toward 
the plaza, and that each are furnished with neat, artistic ve- 
randas, covered with flowers and trailing vines — an association 
that conferred upon the pretty little domicils both an air of 
comfort and recognized taste. A little chapel also exposed its 
gothic front at one end of the plaza, with its spire pointing 
heavenward and enclosing a bell, whose tones no doubt are 
welcome at the hour of prayer to the cottagers who may here 
temporarily sojourn, while at the same time commending the 
management of the place in making such provision for their 
patrons. ]\Ieanwhile, dividing into coteries, we saunter to and 
fro, 'neath the arching trees, across the velvet lawn and to the 



158 The Pilgrimage of 



brow of the plaza, while one or more, by permission, invade the 
rear porticoes of some of the cottages that overlook the steep 
declivities that, upon all sides, extend to depths out of sight in 
the dense shade of the overhanging stately firs, far below. We 
sought to parallel the associations of this spot with those of some 
other locality that we had visited, either in the home or foreign 
lands, but we could recall none that could approach this gem, 
located 600 feet above the level of the railway, which, in turn, is 
2,558 feet above the level of the sea. 

We did not learn whether this plaza was the site of a natural 
plateau, either in whole or in part, or whether an entire work of 
art, as wrought upon the top of a mountain spur or peak. In 
either case, the corporation owning the springs have not spared 
expense in their confidence that a patronizing public would not 
long hesitate to avail themselves of the specialties in store for 
them here, as lovers of the beautiful as well habitues of health 
resorts. 

THE DKEAM VANISHES. 

But tlie loud shrieks of the Special and the reverberating 
echoes of the height announce that our lease of wandering is 
about expired, and, therefore, pell-mell we go down the zigzag, 
though we perceive with not so high a degree of emulation as 
was manifest in the ascent. It was not, however, that there 
seemed to be a depletion of energy upon the part of any, but 
rather the result of a demand upon a different set of locomotor 
muscles that are a little more difficult to control when the gait 
is accelerated by gravity. At least, we discovered that some of 
the Pilgrims found it so, though, all arrived safely at the base. 
Upon roll call, it is found that none have straggled, and, there- 
fore, we are again upon the wing, and upon leaving the station 
we make a detour, the reverse to that of the approach to the 
station and thence cross, by bridge, the Sacramento in our 
further descent along its banks to pass one-fourth of a mile 
below Shasta Eetreat, which we would have liked to have in- 
spected for fifteen minutes at least, not only on account of the 
five different mineral springs that here dispense their medicinal 



The San Francisco Club. 159 

qualities, but also for the reason that, owing to the ample site 
room was afforded for the erection, upon the grounds, of re- 
ligious and other buildings of different moral associations, upon 
the scale of those of Pacific Grove Eetreat, near Monterey, which 
we hope to see upon our route further South. The Chautauqua 
Assembly, for instance, here divides its patronage wnth the said 
Pacific Eetreat, and thus attracts many of the religious element 
of the State interested in the educational and moral subjects at 
these assemblies, while at the same time in their leisure hours 
to wander among their picturesque surroundings in search of the 
rare specimens that the botanist and mineralogist have learned 
so much to prize, meanwhile cultivating their social instincts to 
their heart's content in the attractive little cottages that are 
erected around a plaza, somewhat after the style of the Springs 
that we have just left behind us. 

We have hardly passed beyond the limits of the Eetreat, at a 
distance of one and a half miles, when we come within the pre- 
cincts of the Upper Soda Springs, so-called, though our descent 
from the Eetreat has been 250 feet, which it is perceived in- 
dicates a steep grade, and foreshadows what gravity would do 
under loose brakes. As we pass, therefore, it can only be re- 
called that this station is also much patronized by the tourist 
and the invalid, its scenery and medicinal qualities of its waters 
having been advertised far and wide, both for the benefit of the 
public and the proprietors thereof. As, however, the majority 
of the Club are not experts in therapeutics, an enumeration of 
the chemical elements here held in natural solution is not re- 
quired, and, therefore, we pass on and into Dunsmire, a pretty 
little town, upon a plateau of the mountain, and a place also 
much frequented by pleasure-seeking tourists and sportsmen, 
as a centre from which they can radiate to and return from such 
localities as they may wish to explore. We here halt but for a 
short time, and are then away again upon our downward way, 
but still hugging the mountain side with the tenacity of a 
barnacle, the river just beyond being now more or less obscured 
by the dense forest growth, though now increasing in volume 
from the many confluents of the melting snows from the defiles 



160 The Pilgrimage of 



of Shasta. We next pass Castle Crag Station, four miles below, 
that is also one of the rivaling resorts of this wonderful region, 
though lying some 350 feet lower than Shasta Springs, or 2,190 
feet above the sea. 

The appearance of the Crag, so-called, is that apparently of 
huge lave-points, like the socoria of a furnace culm bank, 
though infinitely larger and more ragged in its contour, in con- 
sequence of having been subjected to the denuding action of the 
elements for ages, and leaving only the most refractory portions 
to pierce the sky like needles, and thus reveal the careless con- 
fusion with which the Titan smelters of the early days cast the 
worthless residuum of their volcanic fires upon the dumping 
grounds of terra firma. 

Another stretch of two miles brings the Special to another like 
place of resort, viz, Bailey's, that also boasts its wild surround- 
ings and climatic inducements, its healthful waters of spring 
and bathing-pool, with all the other contributions of the forest 
and nearby rapidly flowing river — attractions all that appear to 
be common to the region, and monopolized by no one locality to 
the exclusion of the rest. 

Sweet Brier and Castella follow suit in close proximity, two 
miles further on, and separated each from the other by but 
three-fourths of a mile, and also constituting worthy rivals with 
Bailey's, in the celebrity of the locality. From Castella an even 
better view of the Crags, as they stand over-topping the inter- 
vening high ground to the rear of the respective stations, than 
at Castle Crag, two miles to our rear. 

But now the shades of evening gather about us, and the sable 
curtains begin to dim the outer world from our still inquisitive 
eyes, and permit only the most prominent outlines thereof to ar- 
rest our attention, as we approach Sims, after our tumultuous 
ride of fifteen miles from Shasta Springs, with an aggregate 
descent therefrom of 1,050 feet, the major portion of which 
was awe-inspiring in its very audacity. While still in this section, 
we are said to have the most rugged portion of the canon, as 
to its fiercest opposition to the passage of the river, whose roar 
could even be heard as we pass along, were it not for that of the 



The San Francisco Club. 161 

train, as wafted above upon the night air in our descent be- 
yond into the milder lowlands, though content that the day's 
program has ended at this point of rapid climax, and that the 
surcease therefrom, through the medium of rest in sleep, will 
confer a mental frame consonant with fragrance of the lowlands 
of flowers, and the balmy breezes, fresh from the watery main. 

Dinner being duly despatched, the clans gather in their respec- 
tive sections, and the rivals of the late muscular contest upon 
the slopes of Shasta Springs dispute the prowess of their favor- 
ites in scaling the summit, and the "ifs" and the "buts" fly 
thick and fast in extenuation of "this and that;" but in the end 
the right of "the girl in blue" to the palm could not be success- 
fully questioned, as she was not only here, but elsewhere, ever 
upon the qui vive to share in the best of Nature's banquets, or 
in the sweet amenities of the social coterie — her never-failing 
vivacity readily disarming all adverse criticism by the very 
force of her inexhaustible elau. 

And thus, amid the sallies of wit and repartee, the early hours 
of night flew by, until, content to call a halt, one by one they 
steal away to curtained seclusion, to woo the atmosphere "of 
pleasant thoughts until sleep did come," and then "in pleasant 
dreams till dawn," to handicap the intervening hours, as was 
anticipated by the writer in invocation of his benedictions upon 
one of the fair voyageurs. 




o o o 



11 



163 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

OAKLAND. 

The morning hour of the 30th found us peering through our 
section windows, as we pulled into the town of Oakland, and 
thence two miles distant to the pier at which we are scheduled 
to make a stop of twenty minutes. Being, however, an hour 
or more ahead of time, we anticipate that that period will be ac- 
credited to us in a corresponding earlier departure further south- 
ward. Instead of that boon, we are confined for an unspeakable 
time to the barren floors of the pier and the blank walls of car- 
encumbered sidings, expecting momentarily to hear that the 
Special has received orders to move onward. But still the delay 
was long drawn out, though meanwhile, in patience, we tried to 
possess our souls. Others, however, were not so philosophical, 
and Sir Eudy became so exasperated that he declared that he 
would — take a smoke. As the writer, however, does not indulge 
in the seductive weed, and, therefore, knows not of its hashish 
effects in blunting the asperities of the moment, he had to allow 
the said Sir Knight the monopoly of the narcotic, and in lieu 
thereof, as best he could, ruminate upon the mutability of the 
"best laid plans of mice and men." 

The longest lane, however, has a turn, and at length "all 
aboard" is wafted through our "pent-up Utica," and we are 
again in motion, soon to enter the inviting precincts of Santa 
Clara Valley, that has the enviable distinction of being one, if 
not the choicest, of the gardens and fruit-bearing sections of 
the State. We do not, however, reach the borders of the cream 
of the valley until we reach San Bruno, about fourteen miles 
from San Francisco, and from thence to San Jose, for a distance 
of thirty-six miles, a succession of gardens, orchards, vineyards, 
farms and grain fields, in tropical luxuriance, greet the eye, and, 
in a measure, confirm the reputation of the State as an all- 
around land of fruits and flowers, of almost perennial luxuri- 



The San Francisco Club. 163 

ance. And besides, we note, ever and anon, the palaces of the 
bonanza and railway kings, that, upon the fruitage of their 
labors, have sought to make the earth smile with harvests, as 
well as to have the marts of trade yield their contributions in 
bonds and bullion. 

To many of us, the vintage crop has been one of but small 
returns in our respective localities of the East, and, hence, in 
accordance with our anticipations, we were not prepared to see 
M-hat seemed to be but dwarfish plants, with comparatively few 
branches, under apparently excessive pruning. We shall later, 
no doubt, learn why a more luxuriant leafage is not permitted, 
since we have always been led to believe that the leaves are the 
lungs of the plant. 

THE EUCALYPTUS. 

And then, again, the view is enlivened by the parks, of greater 
or less area, of native trees, clothed in their mass of leafage, 
many of which are indigenous only to the California section of 
the Pacific coast, such as the live oak, known specifically as 
the Coast, Hohn, or simple Evergreen live oak, and other ever- 
greens to which reference may be made later. But, here, it may 
be well to refer specially to the Eucalyptus that here abounds, 
and which many members of the Club now see for the first time, 
and with which we will, no doubt, become familiar before leaving 
this coast. This genus of evergreen trees was originally a native 
of Australia, and the honor of its transplantation to the soil 
of California belongs to Wm. M. Taylor, an original '49er and 
street preacher of San Francisco, but subsequently a missionary 
to Australia, where he spent some time, and later was made 
Bishop to Africa, and still later made this State his final home, 
dying at Palo Alto about three years since; and, hence, upon 
leaving Australia, he brought shoots of the Eucalyptus with him, 
and from this beginning we have the sequel of a widespread 
propagation in the State, and, to a limited extent, in adjoining 
ones. It belongs to the myrtle family, has a stringy outer bark, 
this readily stripped in after-growth, its inner bark being smooth 
like the eastern beech or button-wood, and frequently of as light 



164 The Pilgrimage of 



color as the latter. Its leaves are thick and narrow, or, as the 
botanist would say, lanceolate in shape, like the peach leaf, 
though narrower, and its twigs terminating in axillary umbels, 
or heads, of apetalous flowers, with numerous stamens. 

Some species of these trees are said to rival in height the 
conifers of the Yosemite, being from 300 to 400 feet high. This 
tree is also exceptional in the fact that though a rapid grower, 
its wood is hard and durable and is, therefore, much used by the 
wood-workers and even by the pile-drivers. Some varieties have 
also medicinal qualities. 

Thus we whiled away the time, or varied our cogitations by ob- 
servations from our view-point to note the characteristic features 
of Millbrae, San Mateo, Bellmont, Eedwood, Menlo Park, Palo 
Alto, Santa Clara and San Jose. Being somewhat behind time, 
in consequence of said delay at Oakland, we make but a short 
stay at the last-named station — our itinerary providing that upon 
our return we may probably make a longer sojourn of a day, 
when we hope to make a fuller reference thereto. The next sta- 
tion of importance is Gilro)^, some thirty miles beyond, that has, 
of late years, made a large growth in consequence of becoming 
an important agricultural and fruit centre. 

MONTEEEY, 

Eeaching Monterey, at but little later than schedule time — 
a hurried lunch having been already taken before arrival, that 
no time may be lost in utilizing to the best advantage the balance 
of the day at our disposal. We, therefore, secure, with but little 
delay, commodious vehicles, drawn by well-groomed horses, and, 
with becoming despatch, take our seats therein — the heretofore 
self-restrained Knights and Ladies becoming perceptibly en- 
thused at the prospect of a seventeen-mile drive along the wind- 
ing shore of the majestic Pacific, to many of whom such an 
expansive view as was here supplied was the first in their experi- 
ence. Skirting the grounds of the Hotel del Monte, at whose 
railway station the Special had stopped, in the open, upon the 
side next to the town, we soon pass into the wooded district 
bordering the Pacific Grove Eetreat, already referred to as one of 



The San Francisco Club. 165 

the favorite resorts of the Chautauqua Assembly — the said 
grounds, upon their farther limits from our point of observa- 
tion, bordering the Pacific shore. Now, passing out again into 
the open, the broad expanse of the ocean was fairly before us, 
with all its suggestions of sublimity ; and, as we have thought, the 
only material object that may justly be cited as a befitting illus- 
tration of the Infinite. And then, too, in its present placid 
mood, it seemed a like emblem of strength in repose, and, there- 
fore, another source of thought, fruitful in analogies like unto the 
overarching sky. Thus, silently dwelling upon the boundless 
object lesson before us, snatches of sentiment trooped through 
our brain, as caught by the inspired interpreters of the heart, 
when, one by our side, being similarly impressed, broke forth in 
the line, 

"Eoll on, thou deep and dark blue ocean, roll," 

and then, as if overcome with emotion, he stopped. We waited 
for the further expression of the poet, but the feelings of the 
Knight became too deep for further utterance, and, therefore, 
we were obliged, sotto voce, to complete the Spencerian stanza, as 
we were unwilling to have him infer that we conceived sentiment 
to have overwhelmed his memory. Moreover, it was highly 
probable that he thought the one line was sufficient, and that 
the sequel was sufficiently well known to the coterie about him, 
and, therefore, it was most proper to subside. 

But to return from sentiment to the actual, we follow, in 
the main, the curvatures of the shore, along the part known as 
Moss Beach, whose velvety margin and clean washed sand sug- 
gest the characteristic phases of still life, while in supporting 
distance, beyond the seal rocks, in scattered groups and bolder 
knobs, just above the waters — a congenial play-ground to the 
pinniped denizens of the deep that here are wont to disport 
in the sunshine and leap, like diving boys from a spring-board, 
into the dashing waves. Unfortunately, this was one of their 
days off, and, therefore, they were not on hand according to pro- 
gram to do "stunts," so to speak. [N'ext, turning our eyes to 
the farthest point, Ave see, upon the highest knoll, what re- 



166 The Pilgrimage of 



sembles a huge ostrich striding toward the sea — the illusion being 
most perfect. Upon closer inspection, the figure is seen to be 
the effect of the intertwining of the branches of two Monterey 
cypresses, that lean toward each other — the trunks being the 
legs, and the branches, with their twigs and leaves, making the 
body and feathers of the immense bird. The perfection of the 
resemblance is, of course, seen at the distance, and at a lower 
point, when the whole is seen against the background of the sky. 
This combination is but the outer picket to the Cypress Grove 
farther upon our way, that skirts the ocean beach at the entrance 
to Carmeio Bay. 

THE OCEAN OUTLOOK. 

Before turning our course in that direction, we drive up and 
out upon an elevated knoll that high overlooks the ocean, and, 
dismounting from our carriages, we walk out to the brink, and 
note the rocky sides that run sheer down into the raging surf, 
and upon the inner side of the spur of rock we see immense 
boulders, that have in time been disengaged and tumbled into 
the water-engulfed chasm, and, hence, as the tide rushes in, we 
see the streams racing each other in ocean glee into the crooks 
and crannies of the inner coves, only to rush back again with 
the receding waves, only to repeat the same in rythmic succession 
until, in the end, the coves are full and the ebb commences, when 
the game of hide and seek is renewed. 

There was an indescribable fascination associated M'ith the 
spot, generated by the details of the shoal and the magnificence 
of the outlook, with the constant refrain that the Author of the 
same, in connection with the capabilities that could cognize the 
picture in such harmonious relations, that we turned, with re- 
luctance, from the scene so fruitful in its associations and resume 
our seats. We then pass on from Cypress Point to the Grove 
so named, and become interested in the groups by the wayside. 
The species here found possess certain features that are indig- 
enous to this locality, and, therefore, they are recognized spe- 
cifically as the Monterey cypress (macrocarpa), and so named 
from the great height they attain from a comparatively slender 



The Han Francisco Club. 167 

trunk — a height of 150 feet being reached with a trunk of but 
nine feet in circumference. We did not see any of the perfect 
Hpeeiinens, on account of the bleak, or rather storm-tossed, ex- 
posure of the situation of the grove, that has prevented such 
a development, along the fringe, at least, that the roadway leads. 
Hence, upon the contrary, of all the gnarled trunks and de- 
formed limbs that lace and interlace with each other in bizarre 
confusion, we have never before seen a parallel, while, at the 
same time, bearing evidences of an age, we believe, that far 
antedates the days of the discovery of America, and, no doubt, 
cotemporary with the l)ig trees of Mariposa and Calaveras, that 
belong to the same family of cedars — being, all of them, conifers, 
the latter being known to the botanist as the Sequoia gigantea, 
and the redwoods (so-called), being the other variety and known 
as the Sequoia sempervirens, upon the authority of Asa Gray, 
the leading American botanist, the Monterey cypress being of 
the same species. Hence, in this connection, we have also the 
further authority in regard to the alleged age, that the cone- 
bearing trees were the first flowering plants known upon the 
earth, having Ijcen introduced in the middle geological ages — 
the cedar, pine, spruce, fir and hemlock being all conifers, it will 
be recollected. It was natural, therefore, that we should all look 
upon this preserve of trees with feelings of awe, no doubt like 
unto ' those experienced by one looking for the first time upon 
the said big trees, which, it will be recalled, are also indig- 
enous to this State. Passing, therefore, beyond the grove into 
the woodlands l)eyond, we pass over the hills and the vales of 
the peninsula that is all included in the property of the cor- 
poration owning the Hotel del Monte, and, hence, can readily 
see their wise forethought in providing for such improvements 
as an enlarged park that the coming years may demand, and that 
will thus, in time, be but a continuation of the even now un- 
rivaled near environment of the hotel. As we pass over cleared 
portions of the preserve, we notice covey after covey of part- 
ridges running over the grassy slopes into the bordering wood- 
lands, with an evident sense of security that speaks well for the 
superintendency of the grounds. 



168 The Pilgrimage of 



MONTEEEY. 

And now, we are en route for the town, which all are much 
interested to see from its historic associations, and particularly 
the writer, to whom the very mention of the name recalled the 
associations of childhood, and the lasting impression made by 
the circumstances of the Mexican War, at which time he was a 
resident of Washington City. We recalled to our companion a 
stanza of a song that we heard the boys of that day attempt 
to sing, entitled "The Maid of Monterey," that recurred to our 
memory as we turned into the main street of the town. And, 
too, the impression was made upon our mind that there was 
something in the very atmosphere suggestive of a clinging to the 
antecedents of more than a hundred years ago that betrayed a 
degree of self-repose upon the part of the dwellers in the domi- 
cils by the way, that has not yet been entirely displaced by the 
invasion of the hustling America of the East, and, hence, we see 
the retention of a quaintness that is not all confined to the 
adobe structures that meet us at every turn. The earliest men- 
tion of the place in history, we learn, was the entrance into 
the bay and the landing of San Sebastian Vizcayno, in 1602, who 
named the place Monte Eey, in honor of Gaspar de Yuniga, 
Count de Monte Eey, at that time Viceroy of Mexico. The 
next most important event in its early history, it will also be 
recalled, was the establishment here, in 1770, by the Padre Juni- 
pero Serra of the second of the Franciscan Missions founded in 
California. The town early became the capital of the territory, 
and many of the Spanish, Mexican and American governors 
made their homes in the place. It was the centre of many stir- 
ring events connected with the occupation of California by the 
United States Government. The Cuartel (barracks), the old 
Block House and Fort, the old Custom House, with its cypress 
shade trees and quaint second-story veranda, the Calaboose and 
Commissariat, the Catholic church and Colton Hall, where the 
Constitutional Convention of 1849 was held, are all that remain 
to remind the visitor of that interesting past. These are pointed 
out more or less to us as we pass through its streets to the crest 



The San Francisco Cliib. 169 

of the elevation, upon whose slope the town is built. The 
number of residents are about a thousand, and though but little 
local activity is apparent, yet it is said that during a year a 
considerable amount of the products of the farms inland, and of 
the fisheries are exported. 

HOTEL DEL MONTE. 

Its famous scenic and climatic attractions are, however, 
what have given it such precedence and made it possible to 
call into existence the famous Hotel del Monte, here located. 
It was thitherward then, after our drive through the town, 
that our vehicles were directed, and driving to the main en- 
trance of the hotel, we dismissed our teams, ere starting out 
afoot to explore the "Elysian Fields," from vantage ground 
of this paragon of hostelries. Located in grove of stately 
oaks, pines and cedars, with such other evergreen and deciduous 
trees as could, by continuous attention, be acclimated and pre- 
served in the latitude, we have the actual association of the hardy 
and the exotic growing in wondrous perfection, side by side, in 
the full flower of promise. And then, under the magic resources 
of the most expert of landscape gardeners, of whom a regiment 
is in constant service, we have designs of parterres more ornate 
and lawns more exquisite than the dreams of the connoisseur, 
or the hand of the artist has yet, so far as we have seen in our 
Pilgrimage, been able to materialize before our inquisitive gaze. 
Then, too, the species of flowering plants are beyond enumera- 
tion, and while all are not perennial, yet the association there- 
with of the periodic bloomers is so well timed that the parterres 
are ever crowned with beauty and the air ever redolent with 
fragrance. 

The wondrous palms, feather and hawthorn trees, with over- 
hanging moss-draped oaks, make shadowy vistas that convert 
every path into lovers' lanes in pleasing contrast to every prome- 
nade that terminates in gardens of roses, whose infinitude of 
varieties is paralleled only by a like measure of geometric de- 
signs of crosses and crowns, stars and polygons, vases and pyra- 
mids garnatured with trailing vines and the variegated leafage 



170 The Pilgrimage of 



of innumerable colenses. The evergreen hedges and quaint 
block designs of the Monterey cypress, from twelve to fifteen 
feet high, and from four to eight thick, of the maze, confound 
by their originality, as well as lead astray the luckless wight that 
would dare to thread its devious ways withour a guide, or 
mount the guards in imagined release from its bewildering toils 
— a toute ensemble that delights by its variety, without involving 
the integrity of the colossal plan as a whole. And now, turning 
for a moment from the ground survey to that of the hotel ex- 
terior, we note its leafy embellishments of the ever-blooming 
heliotrope, hanging in graceful festoons about the outer walls, 
while climbing roses, in their wealth of luxuriance, almost shut 
in the broad verandas that surround the greater part of the 
main Ijuilding, in pleasing contrast to the other climbers of wis- 
teria and lavender that envelope the higher gables. 

Again, we turn to take a last look at the inimitable scene, as 
we stand with the broad central promenade before us, bordered 
with its exuberance of colors and verdure upon either side, as 
we look down the same toward the enchanting mirror of the 
Laguna del Eey, with its conical-shaped cypresses environing its 
limpid waters — the whole enwrapped in the reflections of the 
dying da}^ that contributed to impress the beholder with the 
thought that now, surely, the climax of landscape gardening 
has been reached, and that, therefore, naught farther can be 
desired to complete the parting vision. 

Thus, in silent contemplation, we ruminate as we slowly turn 
our footsteps into the hotel, and survey its capacious courts, 
that we may discover if its domestic comforts may successfully 
compete with the Elysian dreams of the outer realm. And here, 
also, we may say that in the appeal to the eye, as well as to the 
sense of comfort, we find the products of the highest efforts of 
the mechanic and decorative arts in full complement, as they 
contribute to meet the requirements of convenience, elegant 
ease and good taste, and, therefore, without doubt, also justly 
suggestive of a cuisine concurring in like ample resources. Not 
having, however, enjoyed any of the inviting appeals of the 
palate, nor inspected any of the dormitory appointments, we 



The San Francisco Cluh. 171 

cannot speak authoritatively of the claims of either, but from 
what we have seen, we doubt not that the unseen can affirm a 
like degree of excellence as that so fully demonstrated in the 
environment. 

And now that we have made a superficial review of the at- 
tractions of Del Monte, the writer is asked as to his intentions 
in regard to his taking up his abode, for a season or two, within 
its sumptuous apartments. In reply, we can only say in sub- 
stance with Sir Knight ]\Iacklin, of the Club, when similarly 
interrogated, that he was not yet prepared to accept the invita- 
tion, but that his decision would be based upon the continuance 
or failure of the 300-barrel daily output of his oil wells ; so we 
may reply, though more explicitly, that we are not so favored, 
even prospectively, with any such plethora of income, and, 
therefore, can but say, that even though our bank ac- 
count, in the language of the Hon. Silas Wright, of other 
days, when referring to certain plans advocated by his opponents 
for the rehabilitation of the United States Treasury, "was now 
bursting from distension, it would soon collapse from depletion," 
"and entail the necessity, in order to recoup the same, of my 
companion's "taking in washing," the writer to take the contract 
of a stevedore, unless he were content, like the New York cobbler, 
to follow industriously his trade eleven months of the year, that 
he might, during the twelfth month, pick his teeth upon the 
stoop of the Waldorf -Astoria. ISTo, no; rather than be driven 
to this dernier resort, allow us to say, with the distinguished 
patriot, "Give me liberty" to decline, "or give me" financial 
"death." We, therefore, turn, away satisfied to yield the floor 
to the Crockers, the Stanfords, the Huntingtons, the Dillons, the 
Clarks and the Hills of the West, or the Astors, the Vanderbilts 
or the Carnegies of the East, to register at del Monte, as we 
shall be content to stick to the Special a while longer, and upon 
leaving the same to return to our sauer kraut of Pennsylvania. 

Therefore, returning to our group of the like-minded, we re- 
turn leisurely to the Special, dilating upon the experiences of 
the day, and after a due rehearsal thereof, nevertheless well 
satisfied to Join in the song of "Home iVgain," etc. 



173 The Pilgrimage of 



Having now an appetite invigorated by the air of old ocean, 
the "call to dinner" is readily obeyed, and all seem to partake 
as freely of the bill of fare as if the choicest viands of del 
Monte had been at our disposal. Thereafter, all are content 
to remain in their sections for the balance of the evening, al- 
though our departure is billed for an early hour, and further 
gleanings of food for reflection might yet be gathered by further 
explorations. The majority were, therefore, soon oblivious to 
their surroundings and, therefore, knew not the hour at which 
the Special drew out from the siding, and, hence, with Long- 
fellow, could truthfully say, that 

"We folded our tents, like the Arabs, 
And as silently stole away." 



o o o 



The San Francisco Cluh. 173 



CHAPTER XXV. 

OFF FOR SANTA BARBARA. 

Aug. 31st — "First call" to breakfast recalls many of us to con- 
sciousness, and, wishing not to lose too much of the opening hours, 
we tarry not unduly upon the order of our doffing the habiliments 
of the night (euphoniously known as pajamas), and donning the 
vestments of the day, we are ready in due time to exchange our 
morning salutations with others that are in the same category, 
as we pass to appropriate some of the contributions of the dining 
£ar. It is true that the "earlier birds" have been angling for 
the choice cuts, but knowing that the larder is ever stocked for 
"more than are coming," we feel no solicitude about the after- 
math, in which opinion w^e are endorsed by Sir Rudy, who is 
always late, and yet ever "comes up smiling." The sequel being 
no exception to the general rule, and the physical having been 
restored to its co-ordinate efficiency, the proverb of the ancient 
philosopher is capable of being once more realized in the "sound 
mind" (men's sana) "in a sound body" (in corpore sano) ; we, 
therefore, with such encouragement, return to our wonted perch 
of observation, and note our latitude. We learn that we are in 
the environs of Concepcion, whose point of the same name, by 
its extension into the sea, marks the northern limits of the Santa 
Barbara Cove or Bay, whose waves wash its seaward shores. 

The luxuriant pasture lands of the peninsula, of which the 
town is the centre, is the chief source of its prosperity. 

Gaviota is the next station approached, and is so named from 
a pass not far distant, in the Sierras, that is said to be very 
interesting as a sample of water attrition in wearing away the 
rocks in the course of the channel of the perennial stream of 
the same name that courses down into the fertile valley below. 
This is also a stage station, and is reminiscent of the traveling 
vehicles that were the sole public modes of conveyance in the 
region before the railway invaded their territory. 



174 The Pilgrimage of 



Naples station next succeeds, standing npon a headland that 
commands the rear-lying valley, where the town lies — the upper 
portion of which is visible as the eye follows the road downward 
from the station, while the railway here veers to the left; and, 
although at some elevation above the sea, the oak and sycamore 
covered cliffs and landward declining slopes still hide the ex- 
panse of waters for the coming miles yet intervening before 
Santa Barbara is reached. 

Elwood, Goleta and Hopevale, with its characteristic name, 
is passed, and but four miles yet remain before Santa Barbara 
and the broad ocean will again monopolize our attention for 
another day. 

The station buildings, at which we duly arrive, are about 
three-fourths of a mile from the principal street of the little 
city, whose seaward extension runs at right angles with the 
ocean beach. The street railway, that affords transit to the city, 
has a caboose to the right of the railway, and beyond the numer- 
ous siding tracks that have to be crossed to reach the same, and, 
at the time of our sojourn here, were, for the most part, occupied 
by other trains than our own, which was the only matter of an- 
noyance that we had to contend with while here. While, also, 
the street railway takes the angular course of the streets, there 
is also a footway that takes a diagonal course across the vacant 
blocks to the limits of the town, and this we utilize extensively 
in our passage to and fro. We, therefore, tarry not long in 
leaving the Special, and some, by trolley, but the majority by the 
footway, hasten to absorb the best that the city of the "Smiling 
Channel," as the Bay is called, can afford, and as patrons for 
the time being mingle in the amenities of a place justly cele- 
brated as one of the best seaside resorts of this or any other 
land. Its attractions were sufficiently known thirty years ago to 
command the attention of the tourist public over a considerable 
area of the country, Ijut when the railway was brought within 
reach, the thousands came where hundreds earlier could reach 
it by steamer service from the seaport towns. Its natural loca- 
tion in the lap of the Yuez Mountains, that curve around the 
lowlands upon its western slopes, supplied the superb situation. 



The San Francisco Cluh. 175 



that, taking into consideration the almost constant salubrity of 
the climate, gave the coveted opportunity for what wealth and 
artistic skill could add to beautify and render available to a 
constituency embracing all lands. Therefore, in traversing the 
streets, particularly from the business section to the Mission, we 
see, upon natural slopes and regularly graded terraces, the homes 
of the more permanent residenters, many of which are elabo- 
rately beautified by large expenditures of money, labor and ar- 
tistics design— the Spanish- American style predominating— and 
almost buried in a growth of flowering plants, both exotic and 
acclimated that show such a slight variability in temperature 
in their perfection of growth, that a perennial luxuriance is thus 
possible that tends to constantly gladden the eye and intoxicate 
the sense. 

THE MISSION. 

It is true that watering is, at certain periods of the year, neces- 
sary to preserve perennial perfection, and that, in the dry 
season, the dust is plentiful in the unpaved streets, but these 
objections are being materially modified by grading, preparatory 
to improved asphalt paving, and the introduction of water to all 
points. Hence, in our way through the streets, these improve- 
ments, it is seen, are being made, and, therefore, in time, it is 
the intention of the city fathers that the short period of dust 
that, m the lower sections, now begrime vegetation, will dis- 
appear to a great extent. Such is now the outlook, and such we 
believe at an early date will be the prevailing condition. And, 
hence, in passing from one of the beautiful sites to another, our 
pleasure feels no intermittance, but, rather, is enhanced, until 
we reach the masterpiece of the Spanish architectural style of 
the early period of settlement. In our approach from the town, 
we halt m front of the arched openings of the long arcade, whose 
wall-sides opposite the said openings have doorwavs leading into 
the original refectory, that flanks the church with its massive 
walls and tower-buttressed front. These towers, fac similes of 
each other, stand side by side upon the corners of the front 
facade, and terminate in square elevations which are cupalo- 



176 The Pilgiimage of 



crowned, and enclose the bells that have chimed the Ave Marias 
and Gloria Tibis for the Aborigines, as well as their conquerors, 
in the early Colonial days, since 1782, the date of the founding 
of the Mission. The main doorway, occupying the centre of the 
said facade, is approached by a flight of stone steps, extending 
across the entire front of the building, wliich, by their age-worn 
appearance, comport well with the whole of the antiquated walls. 
The interior of the church, in its pictures and other sacerdotal 
adornments, carry us back to the Mediaeval shrines of Venice 
and Eome, and, therefore, awaken within us a desire to inspect 
the prominent attractions of the sacristy and altar. The main 
audience was, however, quite dark, and other objects of interest 
in the famous garden of palms, cacti, figs and innumerable 
flowering plants, with the fixed attraction of fountain and vault, 
in which latter are deposited the remains of the deceased padres 
of the Mission since its foundation — all demand at least a cursory 
examination. The refectory and cellar, entrance to which is 
from the arcade (as before stated), possesses attractions to the 
majority of the Sir Knights and their Ladies on account of the 
sacred curios there exhibited, paintings and other associations 
that conspire to carry us back to a period both novel and unprece- 
dented in the progressive history of our times, unless it be in 
the other localities of the coast region, with like association as 
in the case of San Diego, Santa Monica and the like. As, how- 
ever, the conservatism of the past has now given way to even 
the radical of the present, the desire to mingle in the up-to-date 
attractions of the beach impose restrictions upon our further 
explorations in this locality and, therefore, we bid the monkish 
representative of the religious recluse a kind farewell and return 
to our waiting vehicles. 

THE BOULEVAED. 

Therefore, speeding down the macadamized slope onto the 
broad asphaltum roadway, bordering upon and somewhat ele- 
vated above the Pacific front, we find ourselves, as by the magic 
of a dream, ushered into the practical realization of the most 
beautiful promenade and driveway that has yet greeted us during 



The San Francisco Club. 



our Pilgrimage," already so full of agreeable surprises. This 
boulevard, bordered upon each side at the curb line by mammoth 
palms ot an average three to four feet trunk girth, and planted 
at intervals of about twenty feet for the distance of a one half 
mile terminating at its northern end in a plaza of similar at- 
tractions of gem-like lawns and parterres in coped enclosures and 
urrounded by inviting restful seats in close proximity to the 
arched front of the Los Banos del Mar, that has its o J attrac- 
hons also Ot the latter, a passing notice is worthy of record 
Erected after the popular Spanish-American order of arcMtet 
ture-its outer walls finish in the finest surfacing of a troweled 
stucco and of the standard yellowish tinge, like that of the Mis- 
sion and having upon its right and left centre arched arcades 
roof covered with the long, reddish, laterally curved tilino- of the 
period, and relieved at equi-distant points by square embrasured 
lZ7: r '^ ^^^ ?jr^nM,l roofs, similarly tiled-these 

con. itutmg wings, as it were, of the central massive arch-to 
which they are conjoined-the upper half-section of said central 
arch furnishing a deep alcove, equipped with orchestral appoint- 
ments, from which is daily dispensed, at least in the shadowy 
hours of evening, such musical selections as best befit the inspir- 
ng surroundings. The hood-like elevation of the orchestral loft 
tudZll T'r'^^y ^^ juxtaposition with an elevated longi- 
tudinally extending clear story, that furnishes a covering for the 
bailing pool withm, and its surrounding galleries, whe^re spec 
tator. are wont to assemble and watch the bathers sporting below 
Hence, we have here a combination of attractions most tnviting 
to the tourist and health-seeker of every latitude, and, we may 

2', / ' "^ *^' ^'^^ *° '^''' ^^ ^^' ^^^^i««^^ of the plaza. 

un.t! ] fVr' ^'""\ ""^'^ ^'^'^^ ^° connection with the beach, 
unparalleled by any that the tide laves, or the undertow avoids 
we have a conjunction of elements that no other locality can 
equal-a circ^umstanee that must eventuate in making Santa 

tT" Z^"' ""''''''' '' ^'''''''' ""''y '' the Pacific coast, 
since, m addition to the aforesaid attractions, it has no month as 
cow as the April, or so warm as the June of the former, and 
therefore, much less so than the latter. Moreover, enjoying the 



178 The Pilgrimage of 



pre-eminence of an average climatic temperature for the winter 
of 55 degrees and of 64 degrees for the summer, with ocean 
waters sufficiently tepid to be used for bath purposes at all seasons 
of the year. One may, therefore, readily sanction the foresight 
of the projectors of the Potter House, in their selection of the 
site par excellence of Burton-Mound, facing, as it does, the boule- 
vard and the ocean at a distance of about 1,000 yards, with the 
additional capabilities of the intervening park that has already 
been beautified by asphaltum walks, radiating from the hotel to 
the boulevard and other bounds of the enclosure, as well as 
to the oval, triangular and other geometric parterres, that here 
and there are conspicuous in the spaces of the extensive lawn — 
all involving an expenditure of money equal to a half million 
of dollars, with embellishments still being made. It is, there- 
fore, demonstrated that the management anticipate a future 
patronage of the elite of the land that will rival, if not dwarf, 
that of other places of like resort not so favorably endowed. The 
Hotel Arlington, with its capacious annex and elegant equip- 
ment, will also come to the front for original patronage, or for 
the overflow of the Potter House, as the case may be under the 
very probable demand of the coming season. 

Turning away, now, from these considerations, and passing 
on to the beach near the plaza, we note the crowd that patronize 
the surf, among whom are conspicuous a large contingent of the 
Club, who disport in the waves with as much composure as if 
they were in a home mill-pond or in the flood of the "raging 
canal." Hence, we watch to see the overthrow of some bucking 
the breakers as they roll in, four and five white-caps following 
in quick succession of long majestic swells, as if to say, "no chop 
seas for us," our crests having been generated amid seas, or set in 
motion by the simoons of the Orient. It might be deemed a 
matter involving invidious distinctions to designate any as strong 
swimmers, as if, in disparagement of the rest (which we depre- 
cate), and, hence, in naming Sir Knight Beitler and his Lady 
as buffeting the billows as if "born to the main," or his right- 
bower, Sir Knight Bacon, who was an equally good support, as an 
expert in his acrobatic specialties upon the crest of the waves — 



The San Francisco Cluh. 179 

we do so because we most readily recognized them in their briny 
evolutions. 

CASTLE EOCK. 

Having thus whiled away a good part of an hour in said di- 
versions, we concluded to explore the beech beyond, as far as 
Castle Eock, and, perhaps, beyond, as the case might be ; the in- 
termediate distance being along the parapeted shore, that is here 
frequently invaded by the huge breakers of the storm-driven 
Main, and, therefore, destructive of the overhanging embank- 
ment that lifts its precipitous sides to a height of some fifty feet 
and more. Hence, we have the necessity for the said parapet 
as a ])reak-water and the guard of the footway, or terminal 
promenade. The final buttress of the parapet being Castle Eock, 
and the footway passing up and over the depression that separates 
the rock from the mainland spur, the writer felt ambitious to 
mount the same, and discover what might be beyond. The view 
seaward from Castle Eock is worth the walk, though much in- 
ferior to that of the ridge at the rear of the same. The spur once 
crossed, the pathway again descends to sand-rolled beach — the 
ridge escarpment retreating from the water's edge for a distance 
of some forty or fifty feet, and thereby leaves a margin suf- 
ficiently wide for the erection thereon of a number of diminutive 
bath-houses that appear to be patronized to a considerable extent 
by those desirous of greater seclusion than the main beach below. 

Eeturning to the plaza, and reporting the outlook from Castle 
Eock, Sir Knights Warren and Forney, and their Ladies, con- 
cluded to take in the same also. The writer accompanied them 
a short distance beyond Castle Eock, but, having noted at this 
point that the incline of the ridge escarpment might possibly 
be scaled, and though quite steep, he debated his ability for some 
time to climb to the top, as he felt ambitious to get the ocean 
view from the summit. The attempt was made, and by utilizing 
shallow gullies and the scanty roots of shrubs, the summit was, 
at length, gained. And, upon looking downward, the declivity 
looked so formidable that he declined to attempt to return 



180 The Pilgrimage of 



to the beech by the same route. And, next, what of the view? 
Looking around and seaward, we felt compensated for the labor 
of the climb, even though compelled to admit that we could not 
trace the shores beyond the pond. The broad sweep of the 
shore, by a gentle curve, revealed to us Point Concepcion, though 
its light-house, being a little inland from our point of observa- 
tion, was invisible. The spur and Castle Eock obstructed the 
view to the left, while the plateau at our rear was open to further 
exploration. Taking time to recover our wind, we set out to 
reconnoitre, and, finding a devious path leading apparently 
toward the Plaza, we followed, and came to its end in another 
zigzag leading to the rear of the main bath house, already re- 
ferred to. 

THE PLAZA. 

Having already spoken of the exterior of the Los Banos Del 
Mar, we now conclude to enter and take in its facilities in prac- 
tical use. Joining the crowd in the galleries set apart for 
visitors, we become interested in the bathers below, as many of 
them execute their aquatic gymnastics of the high dive, toboggan 
slide, head or feet first, the varieties of swimming, floating, etc. 
Here, also, we note the accommodations for all seasons, ages and 
conditions for the benefit of those who may not wish to buffet 
the surf. Thus occupied for another period, we again withdrew 
and joined other groups upon the Plaza below, and gaze for 
awhile longer out upon the vasty deep, wondering "What were 
the wild waves saying," and then imagining the response to 
come, "The Hand that made us is Divine." 

We accept the finale, and, turning our footsteps toward the 
booths of curios, full stocked with the devices of men and the 
products of the sea, we are again entertained for a few moments 
longer, but the sinking of the sun toward its exit beyond the 
sea reminds us that the return to the Special is in order, if 
we would enjoy an interim of rest before returning at a later 
hour to hear the orchestral strains upon the Plaza. 

Dinner having been discussed to our satisfaction, and a few 



The San Francisco Club. 181 

social moments employed thereafter, a party was improvised to 
return to the Plaza to wliile away an hour or two in the diversion 
of watching the visiting complement of the local habitues, the 
transient patron, or to take in the effect of the brilliantly-lighted 
boulevard and Potter House Park, as well as to be entertained 
by the orchestra. As the entire scene was a unique one from 
the nature of the case, we were interested to absorb the whole, 
including the specialty of the musical entertainment. The selec- 
tions of the last-named were reasonably good, independent of 
the effect of the environment, which might influence the hearer 
to compliment even an ordinary program. While thus em- 
ployed our companion and the writer were somewhat diverted 
by a little "scrap" that we overheard, involving a couple of 
spectators that sat near us, not so much by the words that passed, 
which were generally sotto voce, but in the far away look that 
seemed to possess the eyes and looks of the gent, as Mrs. Caudle 
put in her animadversions with an apparent eye to business, and 
a facial play that was interesting, if not inspiring to other than 
the auditor most involved. His bearing seemed to indicate that 
"he had been there before," and, therefore, his abstracted look 
appeared to be the best index that he could have presented of 
injured innocence. Upon the whole, we thought it an appro- 
priate object lesson "of being seen as others see us," even though 
the environment be ever so enchanting and suggestive of 
unison of sentiment rather than of "scrappy" discord between 
the "high contracting parties." But parting "variety" must 
add its spice," or we could not enjoy to the full the totality of 
"life." Hence, with this "understudy" of the comic phase, as 
a contrast to the higher aesthetical of the orchestra, we thought 
it well "to move on" without awaiting the denouement of the 
by-play. Therefore, after taking another view of the shell curios, 
that we recalled was here a specialty of the nearby booth, with- 
out stopping to interrogate at length the keeper upon her erudi- 
tion in conchology, but stopping only long enough to make a 
few trifling purchases, we resume our farewell stroll down the 
brilliant boulevard, and, under the spell of its suggestive ac- 
companiments, we take the return trolley, with others that have 



182 The Pilgrimage of 



straggled in from the Potter House and elsewhere, and are soon 
once more within the portals of the Special. The hours have 
slipped away, the porter is ready for us, and, therefore, without 
further delay sleep is wooed, that is not so coy as to long refuse 
its welcome embrace. 




COO 



The San Francisco Club. 183 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

THE CURTAIN DRAWN". 

September 2d. Awakening upon the morning of said date, 
we find the Special is not in motion, and, upon looking out, 
we find ourselves in a railway station, and, hence, conclude that 
something has transpired during the night. Upon arising and 
going out to take in the situation, we soon learn that we are 
in Los Angeles, or, as it was early honored by the Spanish- 
Americans with the grandiloquent name of Nuestra Senora la 
Reina de Los Angelles — "Our Lady the Queen of the Angels," 
it may be well not to forget the latter name in our intense 
desire to abridge. 

The "call to breakfast" being honored without undue delay, 
a hurried consultation was held upon the part of some, and 
predestined intentions upon the part of others, which ended 
in the majority of the Club making their first break for the 
Santa Catalina Island, with its unique attractions. As the 
writer was one of the minority, and preferred to develop a dif- 
ferent program for the day, it becomes necessary to accept 
the statements of another in regard to said island experiences of 
the party that went thither. We, therefore, beg leave to quote 
Sir Knight Macklin's description of the details of the trip 
thitherward, as follows : 

"We went to Catalina Island, twenty-five miles by steam cars 
to the ocean and about thirty miles over the blue waves of the 
Pacific Ocean, which is the farthest point west I ever expect 
to reach. It was foggy when the big steamer left her wharf, 
and the fog whistle sounded continuously for some time, but 
when we got out of sight of land it lifted, and sky and water 
were visible to the rim of the horizon. The long, steady swells 
of the Pacific are said to be more conducive to sea sickness than 
the less steady beat of old Atlantic's pulse, and I expected to 
be one of the first to give up something to the sea, but I proved 
to be a regular Jack tar. Several of our delegates were laid 



184 The Pilgrimage of 



out, however, early in the voyage. In about two hours we ar- 
rived at Avalon, the only town on the island, built along the 
shores of its beautiful curving bay. Back of the town, the hills 
rise abruptly, brown and bare of vegetation. In fact, nothing 
is cultivated on the island except the winter tourist and people 
seeking a summer all-the-year-climate. Sea gulls are most 
numerous and quite domesticated in their habits. One can 
almost pick them up upon the streets of Avalon, along the bay. 
Here the fisherman revels. All the fish are game and caught 
with rod and reel. A Jewfish was taken the afternoon we were 
there, and its weight was only 201 pounds, but occasionally one 
is captured that weighs -iOO pounds and over. The greatest 
variety of fish are found here, only a short distance from the 
shore. The town has a population of 400, part of whom live in 
a tent city, and certainly they are isolated from the world, being 
dependent altogether upon the coming of the steamship for 
their living (except fish), and for news from the mainland. 
Curio stores abound here, for the sale of shells and trinkets, and 
they did a big business with the 600 excursionists on the boat. 
The glass-bottom boat traffic is a great and thriving one. We 
were entreated on all sides by a score of energetic boatmen, who 
wanted to show us the wonders of the deep for twenty-five cents 
— the marine gardens — and what a never-to-be-forgotten sight 
it is to look through the glass bottoms in the row and power 
boats, to the depth of eighty feet, and see the beautiful mosses 
and the forests of slender and delicately-colored plants and the 
fiower-laden vegetation that exists under the sea, with rare and 
costly shells gleaming in their wealth of color among the white 
rocks of these indescribable caverns of the sea, while in the 
clear, still water of this fairy-land these sylvan depths of old 
ocean, golden yellow fish, blue-colored fish, rock bass and other 
species of the finny tribe, great and small, poised in the mirror- 
like depths of the bay or played hide and seek among the mosses 
and plants. It was a revelation to us all. Indeed, even yet, it 
seems like a dream. Boys live in the water here like ducks, 
and dive into the deep clear waters of the bay for nickles or 
dimes thrown in by the tourists, and they get them every time." 



The San Francisco Club. 185 

The said minority thereupon started out to explore the city, 
some by trolley and some by carriage, according to the individual 
preference or objective point that each had in view. To the 
most of us that have heard and read of the city during the 
late years, the chief attraction of the city was that it was one of 
beautiful homes. The rare beauty of the grounds surrounding 
these homes of Los Angeles and nearby Pasadena, has, during 
the past decade, been the constant theme of those that have 
visited this section from the East, and, therefore, it was but 
natural that we should be desirous of verifying these statements 
by our own experience. Other cities of the great commercial 
centres may show grander blocks of sky-scraping business houses, 
but in the display of ornate lawn and garden surroundings 
none can equal Los Angeles upon a large scale, though its sister 
city of Pasadena may excel in some respects upon a small scale. 
The salubrity of the climate allows the most delicate plants 
and trees to flourish in the open air during the entire year. 
Even during the period of our eastern midwinter there may be 
here seen hedges of calla lilies, geranium bushes ten feet and 
more in height, and heliotrope covering the sides of the houses, 
while jasmine, tuberoses and orange blossoms make the air redo- 
lent with fragrance. Giant bananas wave their graceful leaves 
even in the most gentle breezes, and the fan and the date palm 
grow to mammoth sizes, while deluges of roses of every variety 
enliven the whole. Evidences of these were seen upon every 
hand, as we pass into the special residential portions of the city, 
and being fortunate in making the acquaintance of a citizen 
Knight, formerly from the East, who rode with us, many of 
these beauties were pointed out, and much information imparted 
as to what portions of the city would best compensate us in the 
limited time at our disposal. Hence, we noted, as we passed, 
that the majority of the residences stand in spacious grounds, 
50 by 150 feet being about the smallest lots that were improved 
to the extent of the average. Many of the residences have 
grounds about them from one to five acres, with the entire plat 
in the highest state of culture, exhibiting their perennial green 
lawns, relieved by a handsome growth of pepper tree, palm, 



186 The Pilgrimage of 



orange and fig. Along the sides of the roadway, also, shade 
trees are abundant — the graceful pepper tree, with its festoons 
of red berries, like our mountain ash, though more luxuriant in 
size of bunches ; the eucalyptus, the cypress and the grevilla are 
the favorites. 

The great majority of the houses are of wood — the pine and 
redwood being the most popular. These species of material are 
well suited to the climate, and, being highly capable of decora- 
tive purposes, their extensive use in such structures outrival the 
more ponderous wood and stone. 

WEST LAKE PARK. 

Therefore, in order to see these in their greatest perfection, 
as, for instance, in the environs of Westlake Park, after separat- 
ing from our polite acquaintance, and at his suggestion we went 
thitherward. And we are happy to say that we found the reality 
far beyond our expectations. It will be recalled that this park is 
but one of the dozen for which Los Angeles is noted. These 
aggregate, within the city limits, more than 600 acres in all, 
and one-half of them are of considerable size. We perambulated 
only Westlake exhaustively. We found the same so called be- 
cause it encloses a lake upon three sides, the Seventh street car 
line passing along the fourth side, which is tree-bordered upon 
both sides of the bounding sidewalk also — the enclosed lake cov- 
ering an area of thirty-five acres. The aforesaid three sides 
rise in terraces above the water, and at their limits are bounded 
by drives. The terraces first command attention, being beauti- 
fied by plant and flowering shrubs, as only the most expert of 
gardeners could adorn them, contrasted with bewitching sur- 
prises and intersecting walks, revealing superb effects — rein- 
forced by the background of palatial residences upon still higher 
ffround, that consummate the combined effect in architectural 
contrast. We pass through the entire park enveloping the lake, 
to note the different effects from its matchless promenade that 
environ the lake, which, in turn, is supplied with numerous fancy 
crafts to enliven the whole. The sun, also, enthroned in a 
cloudless sky, bathes the scene in its resplendent rays, that give 



The San Francisco Club. IS'] 



a golden shimmer to the scene, that suggests the "perfumed 
light" that Claude Melnotte — a creation of Bulwer— so loved 
to dilate upon to his fair inamorata. Were we equally free in 
suggestion, we would advocate a change of name to Lovers' Re- 
treat, whose very atmosphere is a realm peopled with "winged 
feet," associated "with hands and hearts immaculate as light, 
without a thought of evil and without a name for fear." And 
were it not that other dreams may yet await us, we might here 
still tarry longer, with the thought that there was nothing be- 
yond. If, however, it were but a dream materialized, it has 
its duplicates a half score of times, we were informed, in the 
remaining parks of the city to further sustain its proud claim 
to be the dwelling place of the angels. 

. And, then, when led to realize that such evidences of luxury 
could only be the sequel of a business activity that must first 
materialize to admit of such expenditure of wealth, and which, 
in turn, may justly be considered to be the creation of but little 
more than a score of years the "wonder grows" that such a 
reality could be attained in so short a time. Though founded 
by a band of colonists (pobladores) emigrants from the States 
Simaloa and Sonora, of Mexico, in September, 1781, the census 
of 1790 gave a population of but 141. In January, 1847, the 
population was still only 1,500. And after a further growth of 
thirty-three years the census of 1880 showed an increase to 
11,311. And even yet there was but little show of business 
activity apparent to even the most optimistic. Five years later, 
however, in November, 1885, the last spike of the Atlantic and 
Pacific Railroad was driven, connecting the two oceans and thus 
enabling Los Angeles to enter into competition by railway trans- 
portation with other points that previously maintained a mo- 
nopoly thereof. Then note the change in fifteen years to the 
returns of the census of 1900, that gives a population of 103,479, 
with an estimated population of to-day of 150,000— the realiza- 
tion of a fact that is more wonderful than fiction.. Hence, it is 
asked, what have been the chief factors ultimating in such a 
growth, and the ground of dependence for its future expansion ? 
The intelligent citizen replies, primarily and unalterably— the 



188 The Pilgrimage of 



climate, soil and location — that, from the nature of the case^ 
are stable. 

Moreover, when it is recalled that there was not a paved 
street in the city fifteen years ago, and that now there are 350 
miles of graded and graveled roadways, 20 miles of paved and 
nearly 400 miles of cement and asphaltum sidewalks, and 175 
miles of sewers, whose system includes an outfall to the ocean — 
the phenomenon begins to materialize. The electrical system 
is twenty years old, is universal and so up-to-date that the city 
is to-day one of the best lighted in the United States. Its prin- 
cipal articles of export are fruits, vegetables (potatoes and beans 
chiefly), wine and brandy, wool, honey, canned goods, sugar, 
Avheat, corn and barley. Its banks show a deposit of $53,700,000 
and clearing of $288,000,000 for the year 1903, an increase in 
the latter of more than 25 per cent, over 1902, and 400 per cent, 
over 1898. Its building activities alone, during 1903, are said 
to have involved an expenditure of $13,000,000. Of its street 
railway system, of modern and well-equipped cars, we can speak 
from experience, and when it is stated that it comprises 200 
miles, all electric, the enterprise involved therein confirms future 
expectations, and in the latter connection it is said that when 
the system is completed it will connect the city with all centres 
within a radius of thirty miles, and thereby increase the mileage 
to 500. 

Located upon the shortest and lowest graded railway line be- 
tween the Atlantic and Pacific, it possesses an advantage that 
cannot be discounted. Having railway competition on three 
transcontinental lines, and a fourth one being laid, all fear for 
the future in this connection is dissipated. 

The result of the appropriation by the Federal Government 
of $3,000,000 for the building of a large breakwater, and the 
dredging for a deeper water channel at San Pedro, will permit 
ocean-going vessels to come to its wharves, and thus enable the 
city to further compete for a good share of the Oriential trade; 
and this, with the completion of the Nicaragua Canal, will still 
further expand opportunities in this direction for the further 
benefit of Los Angeles. Taking these considerations, therefore, 



The San Francisco Club. jgg 

in connection with the fact that the city lies about half-way be- 

tion of 300 feet above the sea, the desirability of its site with 
such a productive area, under contribution of inexhaustible re- 
sources we begin to apprehend wliy its citizens affirm that thev 
are to the manor born, "one and inseparable." 

THE OIL SECTION. 

ty,f^\ '°, "''"° '?'" '""■ '^«'-=^^i™> "'o take up the further 
thiead of our wanderings. Leaving, therefore, Westlake Park 
we take a dn-ect.on different from our route of approach, and 
find ourselves we adm.t, without premeditation, in the oil section 
ot the c,ty. For the evidences here found of the exploitation of 
th od industry we were taken entirely by surprise, that we had 

and herefore to be suddenly confronted with scores of derrick 

Ind t„?T y"""''"" '"* *° '"^"''J' "^ t° "^ productiveness 
and financial returns. We learned, however, that although pe- 

of Lo» Angeles and Ventura for the past twenty-five years, yet 
It has not been until recently that the discovery of this rich find 

attention of capitalists and thus greatly increase the total pro- 
duction. In 1902, about one-fourth of the output of the sLte 
«^ produced m this section, which is confined to a narrow 

nrodnct;„„ , ™''' °' V'<' <;5,000,000 barrels' yield of the State's 

were c dirr!, ""'■''''' '""'*'°= "''' «'°»»'«»0 ^""^1^ 
Tatelv Tb T '"="°°' "' ' '■"'"« "' «^'=00'«»» »PP™-- 

manuLt ^T f" "' "'^ '""^^ "" '^ handled ik the 

a Ph tum"t°h' "'r^^'T' '"'"' "■"■"i-t-g oil, etc. Of 

outout r; nnn . "^ P'™'' "^ "^'^ "'? "■''^ <=''P«"<= of an 
output of 3,000 tons annually. It is thought that under similar 

t™ roT b n'°'"°™'^' ""™ * '^^ '--' -" "« *heTead- 
mfrked a vf V"""" " "" P™'"°"™' "' "''■*> »^ "^'^^"^^ '■^- 
Angeles, The oil here brought to the surface differs from that 



190 The Pilgrimage of 



of the Eastern States in being of a heavier grade, with a decided 
asphaltum base, and, hence, it is used almost exclusively for fuel, 
and from tests made it was shown that oil at $1.00 per barrel 
was equal in heating power to coal at $4.00 per ton. Thus, it 
is seen that this oil industry has been of great pecuniary benefit 
to Los Angeles in more than one line of industry, and, therefore, 
we felt abundantly compensated by the information obtained 
for having wandered to this part of the city. 

Thereupon, leaving this locality, which is one of the hilly sec- 
tions of the city, we descend into the business portion, prepara- 
tory to making another departure to some other point. There- 
fore, traversing several of the streets, the real elegance, height 
and permanence of the business blocks become, in many places, 
very conspicuous. The Braly block — a building of twelve stories, 
of which the upper two are quite ornamental, with their rounded 
pilasters separating hooded and circular crowned windows, and 
surmounted by square guttae and resetted cornice that give a 
very handsome finish to the whole. The Pacific Electric Inter- 
urban Building, of ten stories, that is said to contain more floor 
space than any other building west of Chicago. The said floor 
space available for use is approximately eleven acres — more than 
sufficient to furnish all the office room that was required in the 
city twenty-five years ago. 

The Conservative Life Building, of handsome facade, of six 
stories — the upper ornamented with projecting corner balconied 
windows and ornate lintels — the intermediate windows similarly 
ornamented, but with a different design. The Chamber of Com- 
]nerce attracts much attention from its unique columnar finish 
of Ionic capitals, constituting the facade of the three upper 
stories; in connection with the pilaster supports of the three 
ground stories — the latter relieved centrally with like Ionic 
columnar door frame — the whole design anticipating, as it were, 
the permanent beautiful display of fruits and flowers upon the 
exhibition floor within. 

The public buildings are also noteworthy, among which the 
most conspicuous is the county Court House, located upon an 
elevated site, though not so elevated as our own State Capitol. 



The San Francisco Cluh. 191 



It occupies the centre of a building block, and is surrounded, 
upon the street level, by a stone coping upon three sides, that 
rounds toward the corner angles, and terminated by fanciful stone 
posts, separated sufficiently from each other to admit a passage- 
way between them of an entrance upon a series of flights of steps 
of six and eight steps each, and separated by broad landings, 
somewhat like the ascent to the Capitol at Harrisburg, from the 
northwest and southeast upon Third and Fourth streets, respec- 
tively. The style is Gothic— the front and end facades being 
substantially of the same ornate designs. The main central 
tower consists of two sections— the lower section being square 
and of battlemented cornice, with the corner supports cone- 
roofed. The upper section of the tower is octagonal and also 
cone-roofed. The combs of the roofs of the wings of the build- 
ing running at right angles to the transepts of the ground plan 
have also centrally located round towers, terminating in orna- 
mental finials. Upon the whole, the binlding is one of which 
the city may well be proud, both in design and apparent com- 
pleteness of finish. We would have been pleased to have seen 
its inner design and appointments, but time is rushing and we 
must move on. 

The State Normal School, erected also upon an elevated site, 
presents a very prepossessing appearance, and consists of a cen- 
tral building, w^ith its round tower cone-roofed corner, and its 
two wings, with front projections, and separated rearwardly from 
the centre by ample courts. The buildings, being comparatively 
new, have not yet had time to culture its grounds with the luxuri- 
ance that it wall no doubt attain in due time. 

The Woman's Club House is said to be one of the most perfect 
specimens of the Spanish- American style of architecture in the 
State. Its arched arcade surrounds three sides of the building. 
But further reference to specialties in this line must give 
way to the general effect of the associated buildings upon the 
chief thoroughfares as we look down the same and grasp the view 
as a w-hole. To commence with Spring street, earlier known by 
its Spanish name of Primavera, we have the principal business 
street. If we were not conscious that we were upon the Pacific 



193 The Pilgrimage of 



coast, we might easily conclude, as we stand upon our view-point, 
looking north from First street and also south, that we were 
in the business centre of one of our most populous eastern cities 
— the lofty buildings, imposing fronts and attractive show win- 
dows would heighten the illusion, while the crowds upon the 
sidewalks seem to increase as the day advances. 

The next street in importance in like connection north from 
Fourth street, is Broadway, that is a good second, and, in some 
respects, rivals Spring street very closely. The cross streets of 
Third and Fourth, are also much patronized by the bargain 
hunters. Thus, a volume might be written in description of the 
architectural exhibits of the city, but other objects demand our 
attention, and, therefore, we must conclude further attempts in 
this line. 




o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 193 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

A TRIP TO THE ENVIEONS— THE OSTEICH FARM. 

The meridian hour now warns us of the flight of time, and we 
conclude that we must hasten our steps if we would visit other 
more distant points, and, therefore, decide upon Pasadena and 
the intermediate territory particularly known as the Canton 
Ostrich Farm. Upon arriving at the entrance of the same, we 
found ourselves entirely unprepared for the sight of the beauti- 
ful little park, through which the pathway leads to the exhibit 
building, from which entrance to the farm, so-called, is had. 
Palms of the different varieties, box and flowering plants, border 
the serpentine walks and circles ornamenting the gently rising 
terraces that parallel the front of the said building. Entering 
the same, we are immediately prepossessed by the tasteful dis- 
play of plumes and boas that fascinate the eyes of the ladies, 
and, also, of course, of such Knights whose plumes are thrown 
into the shade in contrast with the broad flowing specimens that 
here are displayed as products of the farm. Feather tipped fans, 
photos and other varieties of curios, in addition to the staples of 
the exliibit occupy the attention, and whet the appetite for the 
living curios within the enclosure a few steps beyond. Upon 
the Ladies having exhausted their budget of questions, and 
promised themselves to tarry awhile longer upon their exit, we 
paid the accustomed fee of twenty-five cents, and were guided 
through another enclosed park of live oaks and other ornamental 
shade trees, indigenous to this locality, around the aviary and 
neath bowers of trailing vines, to the corrals beyond. Hence, as 
we approach the last-named, the first objects that attract us are 
the long, vertically extended necks of the birds, that protrude 
upward like so many bare stakes — the apparent absence of 
plumage from their necks cause the latter to appear like so many 
saplings divested of their bark, and terminating in a gnarled top 
or knob. But these stakes, beginning all to be in motion, and 
apparently to be as desirous of scanning the arrivals with as 
13 



194 The Pilgrimage of 



much curiosity as possess the latter to view the odd bipeds before 
us. There were some seventy-five or more in the flock, and, 
moving around freely among each other upon apparent good 
terms with all. We were, from the first, cautioned against 
coming too near the enclosure and becoming too familiar with 
the occupants, even though they appear never so indifferent. 
The main reason allegd for caution was that, being so omniver- 
ous, they might suddenly divest a visitor of his spectacles, breast- 
pin, or watch and chain and swallow them or other similar 
trinkets on sight, and apparently without any discomfort to the 
feathered epicure. 

The truth of this propensity was tested in our presence in con- 
firmation of the assertion, at least in the case of the ostrich, 
that there is no universal standard of taste {nil de gustibus dis- 
piitandum) and as a proof of its voracity, by the tossing of 
an orange into their midst and observing the emulation of the 
entire flock to get it, though, in the end, showing apparently no 
enmity against the successful one. Their want of the faculty 
of taste was proven by the fact that before swallowing they make 
no effort to test the flavor, say of fruit or other edible, by squeez- 
ing the same with their strong bills, but they gulp the same 
down whole, and one can see by the distension of the neck the 
downward passage of the said orange or apple, and, as often 
upon the side of the neck as in front, as if the gullet extended 
all around the bone of the neck. The duck-like bill and flat, 
receding heads, confirm, in appearance, the statement of their 
keeper that they had no brains, and, hence, of very low order 
of intelligence. They apparently show no affection for their 
young or for their keeper, and, therefore, as he said, of treacher- 
ous disposition. After being hatched, the fledglings are taken 
away and placed in a separate enclosure, without apparently 
being missed by the mother. And yet, in apparent contradiction 
to this want, the birds mate, and, upon the selection of partners, 
the preference of each for the other is not for a season but for 
life, and when the mating is consummated, the couple are re- 
moved from the general flock, and assigned a separate corral, 
where they commence house-keeping in due form. When the 



The San Francisco Club. 195 

female has deposited her quota of eggs, in a depression crudely 
hollowed out in the loose earth, she alternates with the male in 
sitting upon the same during the period of incubation. By in- 
stinct the femals sits upon her eggs generally during the day, 
for the reason, it is said, that, being grey in color, she resembles 
more nearly that of the ground and, therefore, the mother and 
her eggs are less readily discovered by the despoiler, and, for 
the same reason, the male being black, is not easily discoverable 
at night. The bulletin boards attached to each enclosure, gives 
to some of the older representatives of the flock distinguished 
names, as those of Gen'l Grant, Pres. McKinley and J. Pierpont 
Morgan. One of these so celebrated birds, viz, McKinley, if the 
writer recalls the name correctly, in a fit of anger, quarreled 
with his wife and finally kicked her to death. Being a teetotaler, 
so far as we could learn, we could not understand why this 
tragedy should have transpired — such finales being generally the 
result of tarrying too long at the wine. This fact did not, how- 
ever, seem to affect his standing in the ostrich community, for 
the reason that he was allowed to court and adopt another com- 
panion, and peace seems once more to reign in the family, even 
though there is no substantial assurance that he will not again 
"go on a tear," and the said community will again have it 
demonstrated to them that "prohibition does not prohibit," even 
though the proprietor was warned to keep only such keepers on 
guard as will enforce the rules of the corral. From the sequel, 
therefore, we cannot but conclude that he had been living a 
double life, and, hence, in reality, was a "soak," sailing under 
false colors. 

Turning, then, from the unpunished culprit's enclosure, we 
see a dozen or more of the young fledglings of about four days 
old, that, in body, were of the size of our domestic hen, though 
connected with the ground by longer legs. In color, they were 
somewhat like that of the breast of the partridge. We were 
told that their first food is that of gravel, of which we have 
no doubt, from the fact that the sustenance supplied in the egg 
during the incubating stage contains all the prime essentials of 
life, except that of gravel, or the grinding material of subsequent 



196 The Pilgrimage of 



digestion. The staple food of the adults appeared to be that of 
finely cut hay, mixed with bran and water, deposited in troughs. 
In drinking, their habit differs from that of other fowl, so far 
as we have noticed in that they take in a number of mouthsful 
before lifting the head, that gravity may complete the act. We 
saw no one attempt to ride astraddle upon the back of any of 
the birds, though we saw cards illustrating this feat. Upon 
asking one of the keepers about being familiar with any of them, 
lie replied that they were so treacherous, that upon a sudden 
freak they could kill a person in short order by the violent kicks 
of their three-toed feet, that would rip a person's clothing like a 
knife. Hence, our prudence had respect to the fence of their 
enclosure. The present flock of about 200 are the descendants 
of imported birds — there being now but two natives of Africa in 
the corrals. These importations are necessary from time to 
time to prevent the strain from degeneration. Before the 
method of plucking the plumes was explained, we were under 
the impression that it was a painful and cruel operation. We 
were told, however, that, being blindfolded and overpowered, the 
feathers were cut off at short distances from the surface of the 
flesh, that the act was painless, and that, in time, the ostrich 
sheds the stumps as naturally as it would have the plumes, had 
they not been previously so taken. Those having charge, say 
ihat the domestication of the ostrich, as here practiced, has both 
improved the stock and also the grade of the plumage over 
the imported article, in consequence of the careful feeding and 
the congenial climatic conditions of the locality. As there were 
no experts in this line among us, we could not dispute the claims 
of the propagators of the industry. Upon a comparison of 
the prices with those of our home market, some of the Ladies 
said that the Cawstou plumes were more expensive, though we 
observed, from the price-list furnished some of them, that the 
opposite is the case when the quality of the goods is taken into 
consideration. The specimens of Sir Knight plumes were very 
attractive, we had to admit. The writer does not know whether 
any of the members of the Club bought or not, or whether the 
price was the consideration in the case. 



The San Francisco Club. 197 

TO PASADENA. 

Having now attained the above and additional information, 
at first hands, we were content to withdraw and continue our 
route to Pasadena. Upon arriving at the entrance of the im- 
proved portion of the city so-named, the first building that at- 
tracted special notice was Hotel Eaymond, situated upon a beau- 
tiful eminence of Eaymond Park, overlooking the Park in the 
foreground — the city in near proximity and the San Gabriel 
Valley and the horizon limit of Sierra iladras beyond. The 
original hotel of the same name was burned some years since, but 
the present structure was rebuilt upon the original ' site some 
two years since, more beautiful than ever. Having much larger 
grounds than any of its rivals, its capabilities of ornamentation, 
of environment will always give it an advantage upon the part 
of those that have decided preference for the scenic, as well as 
for domiciliary elegance. Although its park is, for the most 
part, comparatively young in its growth of ornamental shade 
trees and floral accompaniments, their present perfection go far 
to demonstrate what the future has in store for a proprietorship 
that for more than a score of years was prominent in the tourist 
world, and a close observer of the demands of that department 
of society. And, hence, with the possession of abundance of 
capital that is being utilized in such ventures with the certainty 
of abundant returns, this hostelry must, from the nature of the 
case, stand among the first, if not be pre-eminent in the locality. 

OTHER HOTELS. 

The colossal hostelry, known as Green Hotel, confronts us, 
about a fourth of a mile farther beyond the Eaymond, that, in 
its internal appointments, is said to rival the most celebrated in 
the land. As, however, we did not take the time to inspect the 
same personally, we cannot be responsible for the statement. In 
exterior appearance, we cannot deny that it is very prepossessing 
in its resemblance, both in color and in the material covering its 
walls (which are of the finest finish in troweled cement), and in 
its tiled roofing, like the Missionary style that is so popular in 
Southern California. Hence, in its internal appointments we 



198 The Pilgrimage of 



may justly infer that they are of a proportionate scale. More- 
over, so great has been the demand for first-class entertainment 
that, notwithstanding the rivalry of other hotels, Green has been 
doubled in size within the past five years. Its cost to date, we 
have learned, has been $900,000, and that another large extension 
is to be added, preparatory to the coming season. 

The large hotel — The Maryland — with accommodations for 
175 guests, has been built within the past year, and is modern in 
all its appointments. Its outer wall-covering, like that of The 
Eaymond, is of the best troweled stucco, and is white — which 
color here competes successfully with the yellow. It is well 
patronized. 

The Hotel la Pintoresca, on Washington street, has also a 
beautiful site, and is both faced along its curb line by large 
flourishing palms, but also within at artistic points upon its 
well-kept lawn, which is separated from the sidewalk in front 
by a smoothly-clipped hedge. It differs from the Maryland 
in that its structure is more compact and massive in appear- 
ance, while the former has front projecting wings, separated by 
a central court, through which, by a long porte couchere-like 
gallery, the main entrance is found to the transverse central 
building, connecting the two wings, in the angles of which are 
located square towers, surmounted by balustraded outlooks, cov- 
ered by square pyramidal roofs — the central connecting building 
being similarly surmounted and ornamented by a gallery con- 
necting the two towers — the whole being covered by deep pro- 
jecting bungalow eaves and shallow roof. The La Pintoresca's 
front, however, is continuous, being relieved only by the central 
slightly projecting square tower, constituting the main entrance, 
and one cone-roofed round tower upon the corner of the left 
wing. Both are four stories high, and appear, in the aggregate, 
capable of entertaining about the same number of guests. 

The Hotels Guirnalda, La Casa Grande and The Spalding are 
all located upon East Colorado street, and though not near so 
large as the aforementioned, are able to accommodate, judging 
from appearances, at least fifty guests each. They are all of 
attractive architectural finish, though of entirely different styles, 



The San Francisco Club. 199 

varying from the Mission to the Gothic and the Bungalow, and 
surrounded by open lawns, beautified by colossal sago palms, 
pepper trees, and ornamental shrubbery, and such flowering 
plants as are a specialty in this locality. 

The Mira Monte, on South Euclid avenue, and The El Morera, 
on North Euclid avenue, are each smaller than the last three 
aforesaid, and are of less ornate finish and elegance of lawn 
environment, but they are roomy, well furnished and of fault- 
less cuisine for the accommodation of tbout twenty-five guests. 
Of the latter, we speak from personal experience, having en- 
joyed its hospitalities with four other Sir Knights and the 
Ladies during our exploitations of the city. Besides these, 
there are a number of private boarding houses that have also 
well-kept lawns and parterres, and located in neighborhoods ever 
emulous to excel in securing the effects of expert gardening, and 
many of these are especially equipped for the entertainment of 
small families of more moderate means, or for single guests 
and others that desire such accommodations, with the accom- 
paniments of home life, if such are preferred, and we learn 
that these also have a good patronage. 

It is thus seen that the city is well equipped to meet all 
the requirements of the many visitors that annually pay their 
tribute to the Crown City, so named from its commanding posi- 
tion upon the crown of San Gabriel Valley — the name Pasa- 
dena, being of Spanish origin and signifying "The Gate of 
Eden." The mesa, as it is called, or high, flat table-land upon 
which the city is located is bounded upon its northeastern and 
eastern side by the comparatively steep Sierra Madras, and is, 
therefore, protected from the winds and cold of the region be- 
yond the range, while at the same time enjoying the breezes 
from the south and west that are so delightful during the 
seasons that are elsewhere oppressed by the extremes of heat and 
cold. The mean temperature of the locality is said not to vary 
much from 60 degrees, and the difference between the winter 
and summer temperature is about 18 degrees. Also, at a tempera- 
ture of 90 degrees of the warmest days the humidity is less than 
40 per cent., and the great dryness thus indicated of the climate 



200 The Pilgnmage of 



imparts an agreeableness of sensation that is unrivaled. These 
facts have no doubt contributed to the rapid growth of the 
city to a present population of 15,000 upon a spot that, twenty- 
five years ago, was a sheep pasture, and, therefore, the transi- 
tion to the realities of to-day, as in evidence in the beautiful 
and luxuriant homes that look out from sylvan retreats upon 
its broad avenues and embowered sidewalks, is a matter of as- 
tonishment as well as of admiration. But while so many in- 
ducements for investment have appealed to the wealthy, there 
are many beautiful homes that are the property of the tenants 
of but moderate resources. Therefore, while the assessed valua- 
tion of the city is something in excess of $10,000,000, the city tax 
rate is but 1 55-100 per cent., while, at the same time, the public 
benefits of education and sanitation are in a high degree satis- 
factory. 

The deposits of its five banks, at the beginning of the year, 
was $4,000,000 in round numbers. It has also its own loan and 
building association. The city has also upwards of eighty miles 
of streets, about twenty miles of street railway and fifty miles 
of paved sidewalks. It has forty miles of sewers, that are being 
constantly extended, while finding an outlet some six miles 
from the city, and there profitably utilized. 

Pure mountain water is abundantly piped to all parts of the 
city, and the service of electric light, gas and telephones are "on 
tap'' for all who may apply. Two daily and two weekly news- 
papers are published, and mechanics and artisans find employ- 
ment nearly the year round at good wages. The abundant fruit- 
age of the surrounding valley, in its season, meets every demand, 
and is almost bewildering on account of its very variety. Of the 
small fruits, the market is supplied the most of the year, and 
fresh vegetables at all times. 

Therefore, upon these grounds among many others that may 
be adduced, we may readily understand the impelling motive 
that has made Pasadena the centre of so much interest to the 
impressible, and why wealth has lavished its contributions so 
lavishly upon house and home, that would require a volume to 
justly describe, as the basis of admiration to the visitor, and the 
ground of allegiance of the sojourner. 



Tlie San Francisco Club. 201 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

EETUEX TO LOS ANGELES. 

The rapid approach of evening prevents a further extension 
of our tour of inspection of the city, that we may be able to give 
a desired special attention to the exclusively residential section^ 
and, therefore, we were obliged to call a halt for the day. We, 
therefore, without further delay, take the short line trolley to 
Los Angeles, and in about thirty minutes we arrive at the 
Union Station, and with due expedition seek our quarters on 
board the special. 

Dinner being duly "called," we are not "slow" in satisfying 
the cravings of a good appetite ; and after discussing, with com- 
mendable zeal, the provisions of the menu, we inquire if there 
were any special arrangements made for the evening. We were, 
therefore, pleased to learn, with our associate members of the 
Club, that in anticipation of an influx of visiting Knights to 
Los Angeles en route for San Francisco, the resident Knights 
had arranged to have receptions (k) nightly at their Temple so 
long as their visitors might remain in the city. In glad ap- 
preciation, therefore, of the courtesy it was proposed that as 
many of us as possible avail ourselves of the privilege, and repair 
thitherward, informally at least, in such groups as could be 
improvised. 

The first day's experiences in the city and environment had 
been, however, so exacting upon the strength of many, particu- 
larly of the ladies, that comparatively few of them felt competent 
to undergo the exertion requisite to enable them to sustain the 
honors of our representation. The writer and several of the 
more stalwart of the chivalry concluded that the opportunity 
of physical exercise by walking to the Temple, some eight blocks 
distant, should not be ignored, and, hence, to suggest was but 
to execute the movement. 

Upon our arrival thitherward, we found the Temple bril- 



202 The Pilgiimage of 



liantly lighted and tastefully decorated by appropriate emblems 
of the Order; and a commendable assemblage of the Knights 
of the city, with their Ladies, in attendance to receive and en- 
tertain all comers. In addition to the properties of the recep- 
tion rooms, there was a banqueting room at the rear of the 
same, which, for the time being, was utilized by those that de- 
sired to indulge in the diversions of the "light fantastic," while 
music was discoursed in appropriate measures, or in the intervals 
for the delectation of all, whether of Terpsichorean tastes or 
otherwise. Hence, those of us that participated in the appoint- 
ments of the reception pronounced the same a decided success, 
both from a social and an aesthetical standpoint, and as a good 
preface of more to follow. Moreover, as a well-timed finale 
of the social amenities of the occasion, light refreshments of 
fruit, cake, lemonade and ice cream refreshed the participants, 
preparatory to our separation for the evening, with the explicit 
announcement of the au revoirs. 

Having thus improved the interval of an hour or two, our 
delegation dropped out in little groups, and wended their way 
through the illuminated streets, absorbing, as they passed, the 
incidents of the way, even to the very portals of the railway 
station. Again, within the precincts of the Special, we report 
to the laggards our experiences of their lost opportunity, and 
how fortune always favors those who dare to brave the emer- 
gency. Therefore, upon the penitent promising that they would 
not again be derelict, but that they would assuredly participate 
upon the following evening in the social and gastronomic di- 
vertisements of the Temple, they were freely forgiven, and re- 
stored to the esteem of those who had already taken time by the 
forelock. With this restoration of the extente cordiale, modus 
vivendi, et al., we "turned in," and were soon oblivious of every- 
thing that could mar our somnolent serenity. 

ANOTHER OUTING. 

The early morning of the 3d found the little groups, after 
the routine of the successive "calls," improvising their go-as-you- 
please plans, with reference to unifying as many as possible upon 



The San Francisco Club. 203 



a common program. Thereupon, the greater portion decided to 
patronize the "Observation Trolley," to reconnoitre the territory 
to the south and east of the city, and others to carry out more 
specific plans in other directions. Hence, Sir Knight Wagner 
piloted one group to Santa Monica and Hollywood, and^the 
writer accompanied Sir Knights Warren and Forney, with their 
Ladies, to explore San Gabriel Valley, via Pasadena, and other 
intermediate points. 

Reaching the Cawston Ostrich Farm, the writer, having visited 
the same the day previous, was content to have his companions 
enjoy the same in its novelty, as he had done as stated, but as 
he has detailed the observations of said visit, and, upon com- 
parison, found that their's was similar, it will suffice, upon their 
endorsement, to adopt the same as our common experience. 
Therefore, with this explanation, we pass on to the further evo- 
lution of our movements. 

Arriving at Pasadena, we first take occasion to visit the Ma- 
sonic Temple, and participate in the welcome extended of open- 
house to all visitors of the Order. Here, also, we were very cour- 
teously received, and made some very pleasant acquaintances. 
Among others, we are happy to make special reference to Sir 
Knight John McDonald, a former citizen of our home State, 
but of late years a resident and prominent citizen of Pasadena! 
He was particularly knightly in giving us all the information 
at his command concerning the city and its environs, and, in 
token of his knightly good will presented each of the couples 
and the writer with a souvenir book of views of the public build- 
ings of the city and some of the more ornate of the private resi- 
dences. Learning of our further plans, he selected two teams 
for us, having a care that the drivers of the same should be 
old residenters of the city and whom he knew to be thoroughly 
acquainted with the city and country that we were desirous of 
traversing. The sequel, we think, will prove the wisdom of his 
selection. 

SAN GABRIEL VALLEY. 
Passing beyond the built-up limits of Pasadena, we were soon 



204 The Pilgrimage of 



among the groves, orchard? and vineyards of the Mesa. The 
first large grove of special note was one of English walnuts, that, 
judging from the size and vigorous growth of the trees, was ap- 
parently a source of considerable income to its proprietor. These 
trees attain a growth as vigorous as that of our native walnut 
in size and height, but in full rounded development are far more 
beautiful and prolific. The nuts, when ripe, are gathered and 
spread upon large trays, mounted upon short stakes or legs, ex- 
posed to the sun for the evaporation of the hull sap and for 
sorting out the defective ones. When fully cured, they are 
then bagged for market. To get some adequate idea of the 
value of the nut production of the seven southern counties, of 
which Los Angeles is one, the report of the Chamber of Com- 
merce estimates the same, in its last yearly report, as valued 
at $1,700,000. Passing beyond, we next enter into the grape 
region, with its vine-laden fruitage, that astonished us with their 
luxuriance. Vineyards from 10 to 100 acres were numerous, 
but the largest that we passed through contained 1,000 acres. 
The plump, winning perfection of the berries, without apparently 
any defective ones in a perfectly formed cluster, the size of the 
latter, and the exquisite flavor of the fruit surpassed any previous 
experience of our lives. Passing along through this 1,000-acre 
tract, the fruit looked so inviting that we plucked a cluster 
at random from a variety that our chaperon said would be cured 
for raisins. Though the Malaga is said to be the variety usually 
cured for raisins, yet the variety here mentioned was not the 
Malaga, though we cannot now recall the variety by name — 
the berries being of a shade lighter than the Concord. Not 
being an expert viticulturist or botanist, it is said that even 
Jupiter sometimes nods, and, therefore, much more should we. 
At all events, the flavor excelled that of any that we think we 
ever before tasted. The cluster that we plucked was at least 
ten inches long, and three inches wide or in diameter at the 
stem end, there being not an imperfect berry in the whole. 
We attempted to dispose of the whole, but a one-third satisfied us. 
The titillations of the flavor still linger upon our palate, and 
will not subside at will. That the experience of all of us was 



The San Francisco Club. 205 

identical is proven by the fact that our hands and other re- 
ceptacles were laden with the luscious fruit, as if resolved that 
"'lengthened sweetness should be as long drawn out" as possible. 

The flourishing orchards of lemons, dressed in their dark green 
waxen leaves, and their pendant fruit of a lighter shade, showed 
thrift and the promise of a good harvest in the near future. The 
oranges, also, were not yet sufficiently far adavanced to pluck, 
but, like "golden lamps of pensile fruit," they illuminated the 
embowering branches of the parent tree as harbingers of a like 
prolific harvest about to gladden the culturist, and contribute 
their luscious burden to the willing appetite of the epicure. One 
or more trees, however, confronted us during our wanderings, 
laden with ripened fruit, and these naturally paid tribute to the 
explorers of this, to them, a new territor}^ by right of discovery. 

Continuing our drive toward the village of Sierra Madre, our 
course bore away to the left thereof, toward the foothills of the 
mountain escarpment, and, ascending the same, we reach a 
plateau at a considerable elevation, upon the side thereof. Driv- 
ing out upon the plateau, we dismount from our carriages and 
walk out upon the brow of the cliff over-looking the valley, and 
take in the magnificent view afforded of the underlying groves 
of varied hues, the broad vineyards and smiling fields, and, in the 
near foreground, the sanitary villa of Sierra Madre — all deluged 
in the pelucid atmosphere of a golden afternoon sun. 

In close proximity to the sanitarium we see the white tents 
of the health seekers, peeping out from their shady retreats, in 
evidence that the inspiring environment has also its therapeutic 
as well as visional attractions. When, therefore, it is recalled 
that the lowest temperature reached in this latitude in twenty 
years has been but twenty-eight degrees, and that the combined 
times during this period at which the temperature fell below 
freezing point was only six months, it is readily seen at what long 
intervals these cold periods must have occurred, and also how 
short their continuance must have been. And, then, also, it is 
usual that when such low temperature does transpire, it is in 
the early hours of the morning, when those of impaired health 



206 The Pilgrimage of 



are supposed to be under the protection of warm bed-clothing, 
and liability to exposure is reduced to a minimum. 

And now, as we observe, from our outlook, the wide stretches 
of orange groves, we readily agree with the statement that these 
foothills are the leading centre of the orange culture, and for 
the county at large it is the most important horticultural pro- 
duct. At the same time the lemon is extensively cultivated in 
the valley, in addition to other fruit products, among which 
the Chamber of Commerce enumerate the prune, fig, olive, apri- 
cot, peach, pear, berries, almonds and walnuts — different sec- 
tions making a specialty of one or more of these products. The 
shipments of citrus fruits, which it is recalled in the generic 
name for the orange, lemon, lime, citron and pomela (grape- 
fruit), from Southern California during the past year was 
27,500 car-loads, of which by far the largest part was from Los 
Angeles County — the total value thereof from the seven counties, 
as per the returns of the Chamber of Commerce of Los Angeles 
being, in round numbers, $11,000,000. 

THE EETUEN OBSERVATIONS. 

Having now terminated our view from the stand-point of the 
plateau, we return to our carriages, descend the foothill and 
again trace our way through vineyards and orange groves by 
another route. In passing through the latter we saw the best 
practical illustration of how the water is distributed to the 
trees under the system of irrigation. The trees being planted 
in rows, either parallel to each other, or diverging from points 
in a line, and preferably upon at least a gentle slope — each 
tree is surrounded by a depression of the surface like a saucer — 
the tree being in the centre — a shallow sluice connecting each 
depression in line with the one next above it. The water is 
then turned into the head depression, and the same is filled 
until it reaches the mouth of the sluice, when the surplus 
water passes through the same into the second depression, and 
through its sluice to the third and thence continuously until the 
depressions have all been filled, when the water is turned off 
from that row into a second one, which is similarly treated, and 



The San Francisco Cluh. 207 

then a third row and thence continuously until the whole orchard 
has been irrigated. This method is called the checking system, 
and is said to be so much more efficient than the broad flush 
that the same amount of water will irrigate seventy-five acres by 
the former method, that will be required by the latter to irri- 
gate sixty acres. 

The process needs to be repeated monthly, if the drought 
be protracted during the dry season. 

In those parts of the table land or Mesa of the valley that 
are accessible to the numerous canons that invade the Sierra, 
and through the most of which flow intermittent or unfailing 
streams, the supply of water may be readily obtained direct, 
and the surplus of water, after present need is met, may be di- 
verted into storage reservoirs, and from thence drawn for irri- 
gating when the streams are low — said reservoir belonging either 
to the proprietor of the lands to be irrigated, or, its supply being 
held to be farmed out to the tenants of lands within a district 
that may be reached by the said supply. In many parts, how- 
ever, of Southern California, the supply of rainfall during the 
year is too limited to span over the entire dry season, and, there- 
fore, millions of acres that are naturally as good as the above 
more favorably situated for irrigation, will necessarily remain 
uncultured, unless some other mode of supply can be discovered 
or utilized. Hence, as one of the methods to meet this w^ant, the 
experiment of artesian wells was resorted to. As the result, 
therefore, of boring, it was happily discovered that there was a 
large section of the State having such underlying reservoirs that 
could be tapped for surface supplies ; and by further tests the 
so-called "artesian belts" have been located and traced. 

One of these belts extends from Stockton, northeast of San 
Francisco, to Caliente, a distance of 250 miles southward. The 
depths to be bored varies from 250 feet to 700 feet, and the 
average well will irrigate 150 acres of land. And, by the use 
of storage reservoirs, this capacity of well is greatly increased. 
Moreover, by the discovery of cheap oil fuel the power for pump- 
ing has been much cheapened, where this method has to be re- 
sorted to, to supplement the natural flow. As early as 1882, 



208 The Pilgrimage of 



twelve artesian wells were bored near Caliente, which is about 
seventy-five miles north of Los Angeles, and their daily output 
is about 1,500,000 gallons. 

But while, in many of the most productive parts of the State, 
particularly in the case of citrus and deciduous fruits, irriga- 
tion is an essential, yet in other parts the product of the soil is 
greatly increased by supplementing the natural moisture thereof 
by an artificial supply of water. This is the case also in the 
culture of grain and vegetables, which is greatly accelerated in 
quality and supply by this reinforcement. 

The pumping is usually necessary to secure a sufficient fall 
to do the work more expeditiously. It has been estimated that 
there are some 5,000 wells in the State, furnishing these addi- 
tional supplies. 

Another advantage attained by the said reinforcement is sho^vn 
in the case where one crop has been harvested from unirrigated 
land, and another crop immediately succeed in consequence 
of irrigation, and thus from two to three crops are harvested 
during a season instead of one. Hence, we have another index 
of the value of irrigation in the measure of the price of land. 
The best unirrigated land adapted to the production of grain 
and deciduous fruits will cost from $30 to $100 per acre, while 
the irrigated will cost from $300 to $300 for the culture of citrus 
fruits in connection with an ample water right. It is, therefore, 
readily seen that irrigated land at $250 per acre is cheaper than 
$30 of the unirrigated for grain purposes, with the risk of an 
entire failure under a protracted drouth that is always immi- 
nent. It is said that there are orange groves in the State that 
will pay a good interest on the land at $2,500 per acre. Of 
course, it has required much labor and capital to bring these 
orchards to their present high state of productiveness. 

The late Mr. Fordhoff, in speaking of the orange culture in 
California, says that — "The seedling orange-tree bears at twelve 
years from the planting — an average of one thousand marketable 
oranges; and that he knew of a tree at Eiverside which bore, 
at thirteen years, two thousand two hundred and fifty oranges, 
which brought the owner seventy-four dollars. The following 



The San Francisco Club. 309 

5'ear the same tree bore two thousand and fifty." He adds 
further, that "growers plant from 80 to 100 trees per acre, and, 
therefore, it is easy to see that the profits of a bearing orchard, 
even at the lowest prices, are very great. Eight trees, bearing 
1,000 oranges each, sold at $10 per 1,000, would yield a gross 
return of $800. One man can cultivate, irrigate, prune and 
care for twenty acres of any of the citrus fruits, and the picking 
and boxing cost no more than one dollar and fifty cents per 1,000. 
But, at fifteen years old, the seedling trees bear two thousand 
oranges each, and the average price is eight dollars per thou- 
sand. One of the shrewdest growers at Riverside said, that, 
*at half a cent a piece, the orange crop would still remain the 
most profitable a man can grow' — a statement that the above 
facts will fully sustain." 

When, then, we consider the immence expansion of fruit-grow- 
ing only, primarily, for instance in the case of the orange cul- 
ture, from the little groves nurtured precariously in only a few 
localities comparatively, that could rely upon anything of a 
permanent suppl}' of moisture, and then turn to the forests of 
orchards — the wildernesses of fruit-bearing trees of to-day (the 
transportation of whose products has also correspondingly ex- 
panded the railway system of the land) — from this standpoint 
we may have some adequate apprehension of the immense benefit 
that irrigation has done for the State, even though the system 
be yet only in its infancy. It may, therefore, be proper in this 
connection to recall what has been the amount of the shipments 
reported for the past year by the Southern Pacific Railroad Com- 
in its prospectus of the resources of the State for the benefit of 
its patrons. Hence, we have the shipments of dried fruits, other 
than those of prunes and raisins, amounting to 57,180 tons — 
those of prunes being 197,000,000 pounds, and those of raisins 
108,000,000 pounds, with 857 car-loads of walnuts of twelve 
tons each, and 235 car-loads of almonds. Therefore, with such 
enhanced returns, and these, too, only in part from the soil, how 
could it be otherwise but that land should advance from the 
figures of the Irvine to those of to-day. 

14 



210 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

LUCKY BALDWIN IIA^CH. 

After passing- tho orniigo grove of which we have spoken as 
ready for the irrigating stream, we came into the vicinity, and 
passed along the margin oU (lie eelebratetl property known as 
"Lucky" Baldwin's Ranch, which lies about iifteen miles north- 
cast of Los Angeles. The said Baldwin made much of his 
money originally in the celebrated Comstock Silver Mines, and 
as tliat yielded fabidous dividends, when in its prime state of 
j)roduction, the amount rcceivctl by him therefrom must have 
been a considerable sum; Ibat is. taking it for granted that he 
was a large stockbolder. The output of the Comstock lode, the 
writer remembers to have reail, anmunted, in round numbers, to 
$lG,000,»)Od, wlien tlie same reaeluHl its maximum in ISlUi. 

From iln> view wo hail of his grountls, with its nuignilicent 
growth of live-oaks that stand so se]iarated from each other 
as to admit ol' tbeir attaining a full development, it reminds one 
more of a park than of a ranch, 'riunigb ]>opularly called a 
ranch, it is really a farm, of which (be ranch specialties are 
notbing more tban a department. This trail is a ])art of the 
great Santa Anita ranch, of the earlier Spanish-American days. 

As we were not of the party of the Club who nuule a special 
visit to tbe rancb, we cannot partiiulari/.e of its present-day 
products, and, therefore, will be obliged to ipiote from one who 
was of said ]iarty, viz, Sir Knight Maeklin, Mho reports that 
there are. within tbe bounds of tlie ranch, "700 acres of oranges, 
100 acres of lemons, 100 acres of olives, 500 of grapes and '25,000 
acres of farndand. On this ranch there are also 'OO.OOO sheep." 

We wiudd. therefore, infer that there are a{iproximately about 
.'jO.OOO acres in the tract, and, hence, at present day's ])rices the 
investment nuiy justly be considered a valuable one. And yet, 
it must be recalled (hat when the lands of the valley were used 
only for ranch pur])oses the land was cheap, and, heiu'C, the first 



The tSan Fnmvi^co (Jlub. 211 

cost to "Lucky" r>iil(l\viii did not involves j)r()l)al)ly a lurf^c out- 
lay of luoiicy. U])on this phase of the matter we may be able 
to throw some lif^ht. We recall to have read an account of the 
(h-atb, laic in llic SO's, of a certain James Irvine, of San Fran- 
cisco, and of his haviiij;- beciueathed to his son, with other prop- 
erty, a tra(;t of land in one body in Los Angeles ('ounty, con- 
sistinjif of 1H0,(»(H) acres. This lar{i,v, domain, Mr. Irvine bought 
jointly with another man in 1857, paying at the rate of 37.5 
cents per acre. In 1875 Mr. Irvine bought out his partner for 
$J35(),0()(). He was afterwards, a short time before his death, 
olTered $1,()0(),0()() cash for the proj)erty. yVt that time an esti- 
mate of (he value of the same was nuide, assigning to 20,000 
acres of valley land llial of $!(»(» per acre, or $3,000,000 for the 
same. Some small farms were sold off from the inu-i at this 
ligure. The value of the entin; original track was estimated to 
be worlh .$ i,0()0,()(t(), ai actual cash value. Mr. Irvine still holds 
110,000 acres Jiear Santa Ana, '5(),000 of which are annually 
planted in barley. 

Now, since it is known that Mr. Irvine, the son, still owns 
a tract to the south bordering on ihe Orange (!ounty line, it may 
he inferred that the P)aldwin IJanch may be a part of the original 
180,()00-acre tract, and, if so, we may also inf(!r the cost, if 
purchas(Hl since th(! d(>ath of Mr. Lrvine, Sr. If, however, Mr. 
Baldwin ])urchased about the time that Mr. Irvine, Sr., became 
sole owner of his tract, then the cost of the Baldwin Kanch 
would have been about $10,000, and still he would be entitled to 
the name of "Lucky." 

TTTE WINERIES. 

After leaving the borders of the Baldwin Banch and the larger 
orange groves, we again enter tin; broad acres of the vine culture. 
Therefore, in our further progress toward Pasadena, we stopped 
at several wineries, and at the largest one visited, we saw the 
immense butts in which the wine is stored, undergoing the silent 
process of aging and awaiting a market. We were told by the 
superintendent that he had a million gallons thus stored, in- 
cluding those of all ages, so to speak. Some of these butts hold 



212 The Pilgrimage of 



from ten to fourteen thousand gallons. We asked the superin- 
tendent if he had any unfermented wine on hand, as we would 
have liked to have tested its flavor, without its having undergone 
the process of blending, which has now become a fine art in the 
methods followed to get the bouquet that distinguishes the dift'er- 
ent kinds of marketable wine in imitation of the celebrated Euro- 
pean wines, and which elsewhere in the United States is attained 
by adulteration. We take it for granted that these manufac- 
turers have no need of adulterants, having, as they allege, so 
many different kinds of wine at their disposal that are pure, and, 
hence, retain tlieir natural aroma. It does not, however, neces- 
sarily follow that upon taking into consideration the many popu- 
lar foreign wines, that we have varieties enough to enable the 
vintner to secure by blending the exact aroma or bouquet that a 
customer demands, and this, too, without resorting to the use 
of adulterants.* We did not ,of course, enter into any such 

*As an evidence of the perfection to which the vintners of the State 
have carried the art of "blending." attention is called to the following 
report upon "Adulterated Wines," lately published for the benefit of the 
public, as prepared by the San Francisco Board of Health, affirming that 
they "procured a hundred samples of red wines from restaurants, wine 
dealers and manufacturers, and analyzed them. Forty-one samples were 
found to be adulterated with coal tar, salicylic acid, arsenic and other 
poisonous chemicals, etc." The Board of Health published names, ad- 
dresses and full particulars, and the local newspapers published the re- 
port, althovigh some of the best-known firms of the city are included in 
the list. 

It is, therefore, inferred if such were the results published from the 
analyses of red wines, no doubt a similar report would eventuate from 
a like thorough analysis of the champagnes and other white wines that 
are so industriously advertised for their purity and bouquet in compe- 
tition with the French imports that, in turn, are not exempt from the 
manipulations of the expert blender. 

Indeed, so conscienceless has the art of blending become that the ag- 
gregate amount of some species of wine sold (purporting to be the 
pure product of a particular brand imported) far exceeds the total 
manufacture in the entire country giving the name to the brand. This 
has been time and again proven by a comparison of the entire output 
— for instance that of "port" wine, so named from Oporto — the shipping 
port of the district producing that species of wine. The same allegation 
has also been made in the case of the French champagnes, whose char- 
acteristic, in addition to the bouquet, is that of their amber color, both 
of which are imitated by the dishonest dealer. The district of Marne 
is noted as that in which only the genuine French article is produced. 
The home demand, however, being great, the surplus for shipment is 



The San Francisco Cluh. 213 

colloquy with the superintendent, either before or after his reply 
to our question. That we, however, did ask for unfermented 
wine, appeared to him, no doubt, judging from his looks, as 
"crankish," but soon recovering himself, he replied, that "he 
had some very good, and that it was twelve years old." Now, 
not knowing that there was any reason why such wine should 
be stored for any length of time, since aging is not a property 
of the unfermented article, so far as we know, it appeared evident 
that he wanted "to trick" us, and, therefore, when he handed us 
a wine-glass of the alleged unfermented, the writer caught the 
fumes, and, therefore, would none of it. Believing that "the 
ways that are dark, and the tricks that are vain" are all well 
known to the craft, and that "if the bark be peeled from one, it 
will always reveal the Turk," we were not surprised that even 
here the competitions of trade give ground for the suspicion that 
veracity is a commercial article. We had also another object 
in view in asking, supposing that it was probable that at that 
time the presses might be at work, and, therefore, we might see 
the crushing process in operation. This would have been a 
matter of gratification, having learned that by the improved 
methods of manufacture the wine presses of to-day will crush 
from eight to ten tons of grapes in an hour, although, upon the 
other hand, sorrow would have been felt to see that so much 
fruit was thereby more expeditiously converted into a beverage, 
the major part of which will, no doubt, be fermented. 

Not having, however, felt particularly interested in this branch 
of industry, we were not much disappointed in not having got 
much information from the superintendent concerning the va- 
rieties of wine and the quantities of each shipped to the East 
and to foreign lands. We were interested, however, to learn 
all we could about the culture and expansion of the same in 
the evolution of the grape as a fruit, both as now developed and 

not a moiety of the alleged genuine product guaranteed by the most 
high-toned dealers of this and other lands. Hence, away with the 
"chestnut" of the "pure wine" allegations of those that "tarry long at 
the cup," or advocate the "personal liberty" of those that indulge therein, 
even though the results thereof be never so hurtful to self, and, naturally, 
also to his loved ones. 



214 The Pilgrimage of 



as capable of still further hybredation, the methods of its cul- 
ture, curing and the quantities shipped, that the same, in time, 
may reach every would-be consumer, and thereby divert the 
grower from the role of wine producer to that of shipper of the 
fruit in such quantities as that both the producer and the con- 
sumer may be the recipients of infinitely better results than 
can ever be attained by exploiting the wine trade. That these 
shipments have already been considerable may be inferred from 
statements already made and from the following facts. Hence, 
in passing, it is well to say that quite a crowd of visitors were 
at the winery while we were there, and business, as well as the 
extension of courtesies, appeared to be on a par. Therefore, 
the superintendent was not supposed to gush on us, or make 
exclusive propositions to initiate us into the mysteries of his 
art, or the modus operandi of his methods in keeping his pro- 
ducts before the public ; and, therefore, much less discourse upon 
the varieties of grapes within his purview, the sections of the 
district best suited to the same, the best for shipping, for raisins, 
etc., and, therefore, in default to compel us to fall back upon 
our own resources and gleanings. Hence, as ever, the writer 
will try to be equal to the emergency. 

VARIETIES OF GRAPE. 

Although it is said that there are some 200 varieties of the 
grape in existence, yet there are but about twenty that are prolific 
in the United States, and of these, eight varieties flourish to a 
greater or less extent in California. Of these eight, the Con- 
cord and the Isabella have been developed from the hardy north- 
ern fox grape, the Delaware is a hybrid and the Malaga is an 
importation from Spain. The remainder that give good returns 
in the order of their preference are the Hartford, Ives, Clinton, 
Brighton and Moore's Early. The first four are all great favor- 
ites upon the table — the Delaware, in its purplish-pink color and 
its lusciously sweet nectar taking the lead, and the Isabella and 
Concord following as good seconds, as many of the Knights and 
their Ladies will certify by grateful experience. The Malaga, 
though manufactured to a limited extent into wine, is the main 



The San Francisco Club. 215 

variety for the production of the best quality of raisin, and Cali- 
fornia stands first in the world in the quality and size of its 
raisins. Twenty-five years ago, California did but little in 
raisin-making, except to dry a few raisin-grapes, and sell them 
for "dried grapes." But now, raisin making is one of the largest 
and one of the most profitable industries of California, and 
these are classed with the best in the New York and Boston 
markets. 

A late writer, in speaking of the grape culture in this State, 
says that "good land for raisin culture in Los Angeles County, 
though costing $125 per acre, can be cultivated profitably for 
this industry." He says, further, that "he was informed by a 
leading raisin-maker that a vineyard of the raisin-grape, irri- 
gated and under careful cultivation, will yield enough grapes 
the third year to pay all the expenses of running that year, and 
on the fourth year will yield a crop that will pay the whole 
cost of land, planting and culture up to that time, even where 
the land has cost $100 per acre. He claimed that raisins may 
be raised so as to pay one dollar per vine, or $550 per acre." A 
Boston raisin dealer, also quoted by said writer, declared that 
"as to the size of the raisins, they are larger than 90 per cent, 
of the imported fruit from the most celebrated growers of 
Europe. The color also is all 0. K., so far as the New England 
trade is concerned. Therefore, with but a little improvement, 
it will only be a matter of time when the California fruit will 
drive the foreign out of market, and the best brands will always 
be in demand, and, of course, bring higher prices." 

From this standpoint, we may, therefore, cite the more recent 
information that has come to us, that we are confident that will 
supply the data for the conclusion that the time is not far 
distant when it will be more profitable to dispose of the grapes 
direct, rather than convert them into wine, and thus prepare the 
way to the ultimate abandonment of the manufacture thereof. 
We, therefore, refresh our minds by turning to the report of 
the Chamber of Commerce, that gives the returns of the seven 
southern counties of the State, one of which is that of Los An- 
geles. Therefore, referring to the item of dried fruits, it is 



216 The Pilgrimage of 



seen that the shipments of the same, including raisins, amounts 
to $2,300,000. Hence, upon the basis of the wine production of 
the entire state, and that of the entire raisin crop, we find the 
returns from raisins alone are, in round numbers, $600,000. 
Remembering, also, that the value of the fruit, in clusters, and 
retained for home consumption, we see that it exceeds consider- 
ably the combined figures of the wine and brandy, which are 
put at $580,000. Hence, we are satisfied to allow time to solve 
the problem, and upon an undisputed basis. 

It may, however, be asked — Why give so many particulars con- 
cerning suggested facts in addition to those that actually come 
within the range of our experiences? We can only reply that, 
since to the majority of us upon these occasions the environ- 
ment is entirely novel, as also the factors put under contribution 
to make what we see available in results, it is but natural that we 
should ask questions, and, being aware also that we, in turn, 
will be interrogated by our friends upon our return home con- 
cerning these very matters, their financial relations, and the 
outlook in these lines, it seems proper that we should keep our 
memories refreshed, and be ever upon the alert to absorb the facts 
of the occasion. Therefore, as intelligent observers, we are 
naturally desirous of learning all that the situation will supply, 
both for our own benefit and for the opportunity that may come 
to us of imparting information to others that may inquire 
specifically concerning these matters. The regret, then, is rather 
that opportunities for inquiry were not more amply upon sug- 
gestive lines, that some of the Club, no doubt, recall, and, there- 
fore, the suggestion to such is in order that they impart such in- 
formation to the rest of us that they may have gleaned from their 
standpoint. We will, nevertheless, take the liberty of calling 
upon them when the need arises, without further notice. 

One of these wineries that we visited during the afternoon 
was located upon the edge of a pomegranate grove, the trees of 
which were of the size of our average orchard apple tree. We 
plucked specimens of the fruit of about the size of our average 
Wine-sap apple, bringing one away with us. It will be recalled 
that the pomegranate, with its hard, yellowish-red rind, and its 



The San Francisco Club. 217 

numerous enclosed sacs of seeds seems, at first, to be uninviting, 
and yet, upon test, the pinkish pulp that surrounds each seed is 
very juicy, of an agreeable flavor, and when the fruit is fully 
ripe, furnishes as much Juice as the average lemon, and it is 
utilized, as in the case of the latter, to supply a very refreshing 
drink. Its native habitat is Western Asia and Northern Africa, 
but from the fact that it can here be propagated in perfection, 
is another proof of the great versatility of the California soil 
and climate. 

Thence, as we pass along, the appropriateness to Pasadena 
of the name of "Orchard City" becomes more and more ap- 
parent, as we survey the great variety of its fruit, from the 
hardy ones of the north, with which we are all so familiar, to 
the semi-tropical and tropical, that have here been acclimated, 
and are now as prolific of permanent yields as those in part al- 
ready mentioned, viz, the orange, olive, lemon, lime, nectarine, 
custard-apple, guava, and others that may be considered as of 
the berry varieties that bewilder by their very multitude. 




o o o 



218 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXX. 

PUBLIC AND PEIVATE BUILDINGS. 

And now, we are within tlie limits of Pasadena, and as the 
sun is still high it is proposed that we be driven through those 
sections in whicli we may view more minutely the churches, 
public buildings and private residences that we were not able to do 
upon the previous day, owing to the lateness of the hour thereof. 
We, therefore, first take in order the four principal ones, viz, 
Protestant Episcopal, Methodist Episcopal, First Prebysterian 
and First Universalist. 

The All Saints' Episcopal Church, situated on North Euclid 
avenue, with its one-story and high steep gable front, without 
tower, but relieved centrally above the base of the triangle by 
a bow-topped stained glass window, divided into three vertical 
sections by mouldings and of similar cornices, but separated from 
the upper arch by stained glass qiMtre- foils — the surface of the 
gable being finished in the half-timbered style, and the space 
between being filled in with fine white troweled stucco. And as 
a climax to complete the whole visual effect, the front entrance 
was flanked, and almost completely covered, by huge sago and 
fan palms, that towered above the cornices, and thus converted 
the whole into a fairy-like structure — the wood mouldings and 
stone base being stained in a brownish ashes-of-roses tint — a 
gem, indeed, in a green setting. 

METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHUECH. 

The M. E. Church, corner of Colorado street and Marengo 
avenue, is also an imposing group of stone buildings. A square 
massive tower occupies the head of the corner, which tapers 
above the cornice of the main building in a sharp pyramidal 
tower and terminates in an ornamental finial — the corners of the 
square base being adorned by fac simiJe towers of about one- 
third the height of the enclosed main tower. The main entrance 



The San Francisco Club. 219 



facade flanking the tower upon the right, presents an apse-like 
gabled front in three divisions — the central one being that whose 
apex coincides with the comb termination of the roof of the main 
audience room — the other two divisions being blank gable walls 
above the base of their triangles, and each separated from the 
other by pilaster columns, which perform, at the same time, the 
function of door jambs for the three entrances to the vestibule, 
to which ascent from the pavement by a series of steps, whose 
curvature corresponds with that of the apse-shaped entrance 
front. And again, still further to the right, stands another 
square tower-like building, terminating in a battlemented-cornice 
and pierced by windows as if the same were the officiating min- 
ister's domicil. Again, the facade upon the avenue to the left 
of the corner tower shows three divisions — the first in order 
being a gothic front, with stained-glass central window of elabo- 
rate pattern of mouldings. Of the next two divisions of the 
facade, the first or central one of the three is the quadrant of 
a battlemented round tower, pierced with a door to which the 
ascent is by a series of steps of like curvature, and the third 
division of the facade is a true apse projecting outward to the 
building line, having oblong square windows in each of its two 
stories— its roof inclining inward from the eaves to a common 
comb or ridge, similar to a dormer window, and terminating 
in the slant of the roof of the transept at the left of the chancel 
Taken as a whole, independent of its environment, the assem- 
blage of parts constituting the edifice, made as fine an effect 
as any of that denomination that it has been the privilege of 
the writer to see in any of our cities of the East. Had time 
admitted of it, we would have liked to have seen its interior, 
which, we have no doubt, was equally elaborate in design and 
finish. 

THE FIRST PEESBYTERIAN CHURCH. 

The First Presbyterian Church, upon the corner of the same 
street and Worcester avenue, is even more ornate in exterior 
finish than the last named, besides having a most bewitching 
environment of concrete walks winding amid artistic lawns, 



220 The Pilgrimage of 



and embowered by palms, evergreens and pepper-trees — the main 
facade of the building having upon its corner to the left of the 
main entrance a square tower, in general appearance like that 
of the M. E. Church, but of more elaborate design in its exterior 
finish, and flanked upon its left by a pagoda-like porta cochere; 
and upon the right by the broad gable front of the main audi- 
ence room, containing a highly ornamented stained glass rose 
window — the other corner of the facade being ornamented by 
a round cone-capped tower. The gable fronts of the transepts 
are also finished in corresponding good taste. 

THE FIRST UNIVEESALIST CHURCH. 

The First Universal Church, on JSTorth Raymond avenue, was 
even more unique in design than those of which we have spoken 
— the building being circular in general plan, but at the quad- 
rantal termini there are towers — the first, or main tower, being 
round and massive, and superficially relieved by horizontal band 
work and oblong square windows, with port-hole look-outs 
above the last tier of the latter. The oblong narrow arches 
of the next tier constitute the open work of the belfry, which 
is roofed by a graceful dome, which, in turn, is overtopped 
by a lantern finial. The remaining towers are square, terminat- 
ing in broad open work above the eaves of the main building, 
and are covered wath plain pyramidal roofs, having small dormer 
window at points in the centre of the triangular slants. Equi- 
distant between the towers of the front facade and above the 
eaves of the roof connecting the same, a massive dormer-like 
gable appears, whose ridge or comb engages the main roof at 
the central point of the slant of the latter, which, it is recalled, 
runs parallel with the street upon which the entrance to the 
main audience-room fronts. 

This church is also surrounded by palms of the varieties that 
here grow so vigorously, interspersed with flowering shrubbery 
that, in season, add beauty to the dignity of the sacred pile. 

These were the chief churches that we saw upon our route, 
though there are a dozen in all within the city limits that repre- 
sent an expenditure of $500,000 — an expenditure of money that 



The San Francisco Club. 221 

is an additional evidence of the morality of the citizenship, in 
connection with their liberality in beautifying to so marked 
a degree their places of worship, as well as those of their homes. 

The Public Library is a most beautiful specimen of the gothic, 
or pointed style of architecture, and was built at a cost of 
$50,000, and contains 20,000 volumes. Its most prominent ex- 
terior feature is its neat round tower, that occupies the corner 
of the group of buildings, and fills the angle of its flanking sharp 
gable supports, which, in turn, adjoin square, front projecting 
annexes, pyramidal-roofed — the entrance to one of which is 
through a low, square, battlemented tower. The details of the 
artistic association of the parts of the group, in connection 
with the surrounding lawn, dotted here and there with stately 
palms, contributed to make the same the prettiest library build- 
ing that we remember to have seen in any community. 

The Throop Polytechnic Institute, as a co-ordinate education 
factor, also deserves at least a passing notice, in that it has the 
distinction of being the only completely equipped manual 
school upon the Pacific coast, and, hence, has, for ten years, 
contributed much in maintaining the reputation of Pasadena 
as the educational centre of Southern California. Its four 
buildings, ranging side by side, occupy a very eligible site of the 
block adjoining the Universalist Church, of which we have 
spoken, and educationally speaking, is divided into five depart- 
ments, under the supervision of twenty-five teachers, that are 
specialists, with a patronage of four hundred students. 

The $100,000 high school building, with its imposing facade 
of Ionic columns of its central main building, surmounted by 
a shallow dome, and its two square front projecting wings, and 
having ornamental central entrances corresponding in color 
with the white sub-base — the upper stories being of red brick. 
This, too, is a building that speaks well for the high ideals 
and good taste of the board of education. 

The Lincoln and Columbia Schools, in their broad, open-front 
plazas, and delightfully shading side groves and lawns, cannot 
but have a most elevating effect upon the minds of the youth 
educated under such favorable auspices. 



222 The Pilgrimage of 



Its business blocks are of metropolitan proportions and state- 
liness of appearance. Its four banks are housed in buildings of 
appropriate designs, and of such general appearance as would 
imply a good patronage. In addition, its manufactories and 
canning establishments show also an aptitude for permanent 
investments that indicates a favorable outlook for the future 
stability of the city. 

And now that a partial notice has been made of the centres 
of interest that relate to the public and associate life of the 
citizens of Pasadena, as illustrated in public and trades build- 
ings, it seems proper that some attention should be shown to the 
home-life as also a most important factor in determining the 
sum total of the results of business prosperity. 

THE CITY VILLAS. 

But here, upon the very threshhold of our inquiry, the wealth 
of adornment lavished upon the villas and grounds of the repre- 
sentative residents, and the resourcefulness of taste exhibited 
therein, so pleasing in its richness of detail, that no word pic- 
ture of even the most gifted can give more than a faint con- 
ception of the reality thereof. 

At first sight one would suppose that if one residential place 
is described that would suffice for the whole, if sameness is to 
be avoided even in the statement of details. This, it is true, 
is an evident liability on account of the limitations of descriptive 
language, but not in the poverty of facts in connection with 
the variety of designs at the command of the architect and land- 
scape gardener, when called upon to embody a creation in ma- 
terial form. For, when it is recalled (to use mathematical 
terms) that the permutations and combinations at their com- 
mand are almost infinite, the experts in these departments find 
no difficulty in utilizing the elements at their disposal in secur- 
ing those associational effects that observation proves to be so 
fertile of results in this city. 

To enumerate, for instance, some of these resources of arboreal 
and floral variety in the various species of shade trees native 
and acclimated, such as those of the palm, the magnolia, century 



The San Francisco Club. 223 

plants, fir, pine, cedar, eucalyptus, ancient cypress, live-oaks, 
pepper trees, blue gums, cork tree, rubber tree, yucca and other 
varieties of cacti, olive, fig, bananas, with the varieties of citrus 
trees thrown in here and there to enliven, by the associated 
brilliancy of their fruit the more sombre tints of their leaves, 
and then, in the intermediate spaces add the floral varieties of 
the perennial shrubbery and trailing vines, and the flowering 
plants, such as lilies, tube roses and carnation that here flourish 
by the acre, with lantanas one hundred feet in circumference, 
when it will be seen how inexhaustible are the means for beauti- 
fying lawn and home at will, with multitudinous varieties of 
effect. Then combine with the aforesaid the groupings as to 
relative position in triangles, diamonds, squares, polygons, stars, 
circles, semi-circles and quadrants, and we have a field ample 
enough to meet any emergency for variety of design or beauty of 
decoration. 

While, therefore, it would be impossible, in a descriptive 
sketch, to call attention to the many specific examples of these 
permutations and combinations, as shown in the scores of pa- 
latial residences adorning every avenue throughout the city, as 
seen by the members of the Club in their perambulations of the 
same, yet it may be proper that one or more of the villas that 
might be considered as representative, in connection with some 
of the vistas in which are grouped a succession of residences, 
and thus, at a coup d'oeil, present a continuous view that seems 
of almost impossible attainment, even though they be exhaust- 
ibly described — a description, it is admitted, that, even if at- 
tainable, can only be verified by actual visual perception. Desir- 
ing, however, not to make invidious distinctions, we shall cite 
more or less specifically some of the more prominent residences, 
while incidentally also referring to others. 

BUNGALOW EESIDEXCE. 

The first that appears as most unique among the rest is — The 
Bungalow of Wm. Barker, Xorth ]\fadison avenue and Walnut 
street. It will be recalled that while this is of but one story, 
like the Anglo-Indian bungalow, ite roof is not straw or reed. 



224 The Pilgrimage of 



thatched like the originals of that name, nor does its veranda 
surround the entire building, yet the latter does surround the 
front building that faces upon Walnut street, its floor being 
elevated about three feet above the pavement of the front and 
back entrances thereof. Its deep projecting eaves, of roof and 
low dormer windows, its level lawns, straight concrete walks, its 
fan palm of colossal cone-shaped trunk, located in the centre 
of the lawn, bounding the front and side entrances from the 
street sidewalks — all conspired to make the domicil both home- 
like and attractive in the eyes of even the indifferent. 

BOYNTON VILLA. 

The Boynton residence, upon North El Molino avenue, next 
claims attention. Approached by a central driveway, which 
separate into a Y, to enclose a heart-shaped lawn, that shows a 
huge fan palm at the two sharp curves of the broad end — the 
trunks of the same being enshrouded with flowering trailing 
vines to the forks of the lowest branches, and the topmost fans 
towering as high as the building standing beyond in the back- 
ground, and, as it were, enframed between the palm trunks. 
The residence is of the L plan, having a veranda in the angle, 
and a porte cochere occupying the intermediate space between 
the veranda entrance and the base of the heart-shaped lawn — 
the supports of the porte-cochere being double Ionic columns, 
resting upon carved stone pedestals and placed under the angles 
of the ceiling — the roof of the same being a platform surrounded 
by a balustrade. The rearward extension of the veranda is sup- 
plied also with columns similar to those of the porte-cochere, 
to support its roof, whose plane surface is broken by a large 
■dormer window, whose gable is of a similar design as that of 
the main building, which also faces the said lawn. • Upon the 
outer borders of the divided roadway entrance and in line with 
the aforesaid palms, are similar vine-clad palms that are even 
more lofty than the central ones, and, hence, to use the mathe- 
matical figure cited, we have a combination of two and two. 
In the centre of another lawn, farther to the rear, circular in 
shape, and in front of the main building, stands out boldly, like 



The San F rancisco Club. 225 

a colossal bouquet, another palm of the sago species. Hence as 
viewed from the angle of the aforesaid lawn, or from a point' in 
line therewith, farther removed, the combination of building 
embowering palms and the other accessories make a most pleas- 
ing picture, and one likely to retain a tenacious hold upon the 
memory. ^ 

EOBEET BUEDETTE VILLA. 

_ "Sunny.crest"-the residence of Robert Burdette, the humor- 
ist, situated on the South Orange Cxrove avenue, next claims 
our attention. It is of the modified Mission style of archi- 
tectures tile roofed, as is also its low square tower, with squat 
roof, of converging ridge poles-the roof of the front build- 
ing having also a low dormer window of deep eaves and 
heavy vertical moldings. The grounds are so closely inter- 
spersed with cedars, pines, pepper-trees, palms and luxuri- 
ant shrubbery as to hide the lower stories of the building that 

^rJr%r^ "n • "'""''' '"'"'"^^^^ ^^^"^ *^^ «id^--lk ^f the 
tW I I """^ """^ ^'°'^°^^ °^^^P^^"^^ ^ g^^tle eminence, 

that makes the site a conspicuous one, possesses an advantage over 

sTaU '' ''"^''' ''"''^'^ ^^ '^''' ^''' ^-''^'^^^y 

THE CRAVE^TS' RESIDENCE. 

as^W^fTi 'f''^''''' ^' ""'^^ ^'''''^' ^^P°^ *h^ '^^^ avenue 
as that of the last mentioned, and is a good contrast thereto in 
de^gn, though built of the same material. As it stands, its 
gable and side finish is fully disclosed from the street. The 
triangle of the gable end is divided upon its flat surface by mold- 
ings into squares and oblong rectangles, and relieved centrally 
^y a trinal window, double-sashed-the three upper sashes con- 
taining very small panes, and the lower three each of large 
panes. Below the triangle a fancifully wrought and bracket- 
supported window-box gives an agreeable finish to the large 
canopied window of the second story-the same being identical 
Tvith the outward extension of the lintel of the main door en- 
trance of the ground floor, in line with which, upon the ri^ht 



226 The Pilgrimage of 



are square windows, and beyond the end facade of the gable and 
in the same plane the elaborate columns of a double-decker 
veranda. The main elaborations, however, of the building are 
upon the north side, which may be considered the main front 
entrance to the residence, though approached by a footwalk that 
engages at the gable end with the driveway that enters from the 
street by a golf-stick curve. This latter facade, as viewed on 
the approach upon the avenue, is quite imposing — the site oc- 
cupying the summit of a moderate eminence, from which the 
front lawn gently declines toward the observer, and is dotted here 
and there with palmettoes, prickly and sago palms. The said 
front of the building is divided near the ends by outwardly pro- 
jecting wing-like extensions, whose facades, in their elevation, 
extend above the eaves of the main building, and terminating 
<;quilaterally in a point, they are connected by their roof like 
a dormer window with the roof of the main building. The face 
of the one wing extension next to the avenue is pierced on the 
tirst story by a broad and low-bowed window, and below the base 
of its triangle by two smaller square ones, that peep out through 
festoons of trailing flower bespangled vines that cover the entire 
triangle and droop half-way to the ground. The face of the 
other, or left wing, is relieved upon the ground floor by a square 
window, with sill face flush with the wall, but a like one of the 
second story has its sill extended outward and bracket-supported 
— both windows being canopied at will. The equilateral edges 
of the triangle of this wing extension are broken by right re- 
entrant angles, which are bare of vines, but overshadowed by the 
moss-like foliage of a lofty pepper tree, whose drooping sprays 
are a fit counterpart to the leafy covering of its co-ordinate wing. 
This facade is also connected with the main building by a similar 
acute angled roof, completing also the dormer window-like ap- 
pearance. 

To complete the effect the said wings are connected by a 
luxurious portico, whose roof bungalow-like projects far beyond 
the vertical faces of the said wings, thus supplying ample eaves 
that are richly festooned by a flowering vine, whose species we 
could not determine, but which, in its pendant sprays, gave a 



The San Francisco Club. 227 

most pleasing contrast to the massive stone parapet guarding the 
floor from the outer bordering flower-bed, but broken away to 
admit of a passage entrance leading from the front driveway 
to this shady flower embowered retreat. A pair of urns, with 
their gracefully bowed fern-like palms, guard the entrance to 
said passage-way from the said driveway, and thus afford a 
common entrance way to the gable-end doorway as occasion 
may require. The contrasts of its chaste white walls, rich gar- 
nature of flowering vines and smoothly shaven lawns gave to 
the w^hole picture a graceful elegance that spoke well for the 
tastes of the occupants of the residence witho,ut giving ground 
for the accusation of borrowing from the styles of their neigh- 
bors. 

THE POEK-PACKEE EESIDENCE. 

The dark-colored oblong square residence of M. Cudahy, the 
Chicago pork-packer, was next pointed out to us, at the inter- 
section of St. John's avenue and Bellefontaine street. Though 
a two-story building, its deep projecting eaves, its low-roofed 
doubled and single dormer windows suggested a composite 
bungalow order of architecture, even though its porticoes were 
not connected or continuous, but simply covered each entrance 
of the end and side approaches to the building from the streets — 
either of which, from appearances, might be taken as main en- 
trances. The house is surrounded, on the street sides, by a stone 
wall of fine rubble-work, covered with a flat side-projecting stone 
coping, which latter, with the Chester columns that support the 
rooves of the entrance portico, the window moldings, spoutings 
and the tulip pendants that adorn the eaves of the roofs of the 
building and dormer windows, are all white, and thereby supply 
a contrast to the dark back-ground of the building that other- 
wise would appear to be of a too sombre a color. The planta- 
tion chimneys of the Southern States, built outside of the build- 
ings, faur in number, also of rubble stone work, give a good 
relief to an otherwise rather monotonous facade that the re- 
maining features of double and single oblong square windows 
would alone have failed to counteract. A small, fancy pavilion 



228 The Pilgrimage of 



annex, of similar style, completes the group. Between the outer 
stone wall and the street sidewalks, a lawn occupies the entire 
surface of a single terrace, to which a single sago palm, at the 
angle of the streets, affords some relief to what otherwise con- 
veyed an impression of isolation to the residence. The build- 
ing, however, is new, and, therefore, in time, the lawn will no 
doubt have its complement of arboreal and floral decorations. 

FAY VILLA. 

The Winthrop Fay residence, on South Euclid avenue, was 
the next feature of the panorama that passed before us. Its 
broad gable-front, facing the avenue, is a beauty in its unique- 
ness of design, in its environment of perfectly oval ornamental 
trees that border its perfect lawns, divided into squares by its 
white concrete walks and driveway. Its site is that of a shallow 
terrace, whose immediate foreground is a lateral expansion of 
the approaching footwalk from the street sidewalk, and the 
supplement of the lower lawns. This concrete platform is 
reached by a low flight of steps from the said lower level, and is 
guarded right and left by flower-bearing urns, resting upon 
square pedestals. The ascent to the front portico floor from 
the said platform is by another flight of steps, bordered by Corin- 
thian columns, which, in turn, support, with other co-ordinate 
columns, a highly ornamental balustrade, whose carved posts 
terminate in globe finials. The most striking features of the 
facade, however, are those that appear above the balustrade, the 
first of which, to attract attention, is a hexagonal-shaped oriole 
window series, overtopped by a correspondingly shaped roof, with 
deep eaves, that, with its finial-capped urn reminds one of a 
tureen cover — its eaves or rim being upon the horizontal of the 
gable eaves, and, therefore, occupying a position in front of the 
angle of said latter eaves. The oriole window in front of the 
other gable angle is cylindrical — its top gently curving inward, 
like the frustrum of a cone with a flaring rim — the curved sur- 
face being relieved by rosettes. The windows, like those of its 
counterpart, are square. The centre of the triangle above the 
tops of the orioles, is occupied by a trinal window, whose cen- 



The San Francisco Club. 329 

tral section is bowed from the tops of the entablatures of the 
other side sections, which are oblong squares — the entablatures 
of each being supported by columns in lieu of sash frames — 
the whole resting upon the bottom of a pendant box-like por- 
tico, or enlarged flower window-box, that, in turn, is supported 
by ornamental brackets. The balustrade, or guards of the same 
being of unbroken surface is rose-carved and fretted. The color 
of the building is that of a medium grey, and the whole being 
bathed in the bright sunlight was rendered still more attractive 
to the eye, and apparently with nothing more to desire. 

TOD FOED VILLA. 

The Tod Ford residence, on South Grand avenue, is also found 
to be bizarre in its leading features. The facade facing the 
street of this building is that also of the gable, and is of the old- 
fashioned Middle ages hip-roofed style. The upper section of 
the gable is relieved by a quaternal stained-glass window of the 
reticulated pattern, and surmounted by a rosetted cornice — its 
sill being covered with flowering clematis, in pendant festoons of 
lovely luxuriance. The tier of windows below the horizontal 
of the eaves are oblong squares in right and left pairs, and 
separated centrally by a narrow elongated bow window. The 
section of the ground floor is occupied by a continuous veranda, 
with plain columns supporting a balustraded roof — the main 
approach to the veranda and thence into the building, is covered 
by a deep awning. Standing at a considerable depth from the 
avenue, the co-operating parts produce a good effect, and the 
intermediate space in the foreground by lawns intersected by a 
broad concrete roadway — the one lawn being arc-shaped upon the 
edge bordering the roadway, and without shrubbery except upon 
the border opposite the road, which is adorned by sago and fan 
palms. The other lawn to the right is more rectillinear, and 
improved by palmettoes of different stages of maturity, and 
pepper trees in the more central portions. 

HAEKXESS VILLA. 
The composite style of the Harkness' residence, on South 



230 The Pilgrimage of 



Orange Grove avenue, is the next in order. The broad and 
deep square tower-like building of the centre, with its tile roof 
of four combs or ridge-poles converging to a pine-apple finial; 
both its broad and narrow arched windows, with their bracket- 
supported and balustraded porches, revealing the thick walls of 
the same — its second story below of double-arched reticulated 
glass windows, to which are appended flower-laden boxes, and 
its oblong trinal window of the ground floor having its sections 
separated from each other by capital columns, instead of sash 
divisions — features that unite in connection with its associations 
to make the same measure up to its requirements as a becoming 
centre to the group. Hence, supporting the same upon the left, 
a broad low annex appears, with its gable facing the observer, 
covered with ivy-like vines, as in the case of the first and second 
stories of the centre, so densely as to hide the entire building, 
except the trinal arched windows of the ground floor and the 
three latticed windows in the centre of the triangle. 

The right wing shows in its upper portico work, the Moorish 
or Alhambra style of architecture and ornamentation, and is 
also tile-roofed. This, too, is densely ivy-covered. The re- 
maining building, at the extreme right, is of the Mission style, 
which, in its stucco facing and peak rounded gable, is so well 
known in Southern California. This upper portion of the gable 
front, with its oriole window of the reticulated pattern, is the 
only part, as in the case of the - aforesaid buildings, that is not 
enshrouded by the said ivy-like luxurious vine. 

The broad driveway approaching the group by a reversed 
curve, affords ample spaces for the well-kept lawns upon each 
side of the same, in connection with the pepper trees and sago 
palms that flank the group upon each side, and smile upon the 
same from the opposite side of the roadway afford a combina- 
tion most pleasing to the eye, and, no doubt, a constant source 
of pleasure to the occupants. 

THE HOLDER VILLA. 

The Holder residence, upon the same avenue, is a more perfect 
specimen of the Spanish-American style than any that has yet 



The San Francisco Club. 231 

passed before us. The plan of the building is that of an L, 
of which the longer limb is the square main building. It is 
also of white troweled stucco, of perfect finish, is tile-roofed, 
with scalloped ridge-poles that converge from the corners of the 
eaves to the termini of the main comb, which is a short horizontal 
— tulip pendants ornamenting the eaves of the building and the 
low dormer window that occupies the centre of the triangular 
roof facing the front of the same. The front entrance porch is 
massive, with triple arched facade of heavy three-pointed en- 
tablature — the ends of the same consisting of but one broad arch, 
similar to the usual entrance of a porte-cochere. The angle of 
the building is also occupied by a massive reversed L, of a series 
of arches without roof, that, in conjunction with the walls of the 
building, forms a complete square veranda, supplied with a low 
balustrade, connecting the bases of the arched openings. The 
smoothly shaven lawn that affords an unobstructed view of the 
building, with its date palm at the end of the square arched 
veranda in the foreground, and the mass of flowering, trailing 
vines that surround the end archways of the front veranda or 
porch, with the lawn and its ornamental trees to the right of 
the residence looking out therefrom toward the broad driveway, 
paralleling the front thereof, complete the picture. 

THE JACQUES VILLA. 

The Jacques four-gabled-residence on East Colorado street, 
steep-roofed, with ridge-poles at right angles to each other, next 
claims our attention. The first detail to attract notice is the 
hexagonal tower occuping the front angle from the point of ob- 
servation, and cutting into the hip-roof extension of the main 
gable-roof. Beneath eaves of the tower roof that is made to 
conform to the plan of the same, small square windows appear 
upon each hexagonal face — the ridge-poles of the said roof being 
reversed curves that converge to an ornamental scepter-like finial. 
An ornamental diamond shield occupies the gable angle, having 
a plain pendant strip extending from the lower angle of the 
shield to the centre of the arch of the oblong bow-window that 



232 The Pilgrimage of 



occupies the centre of the triangle. From the top of the window 
arch upon each side of the said shield pendant, lines are sprayed 
to the contiguous roof-edges of the triangle. Small oblong win- 
dows of one-half the height of the central bow-window, tlank 
the same upon both sides — their lintels being outwardly extended 
to form permanent awnings. The triangle, also being pro- 
jected beyond the vertical plane of the lower facade, appears to 
perform the part, to a limited extent, of a continuous awning 
or shelter of the part of the facade enclosed between the hip- 
roof edges of the gable centre. In the immediate foreground, 
in front of the ground story of the central building or gable 
front, a massive veranda is erected, parallel thereto, of square 
columns and plain abacuses, which support a reticulated balus- 
trade, environing an ample promenade equal to any emergency. 
The large square portals of ingress and egress are at each end of 
the veranda, facing the point of observation — the central square 
being occupied by an urn of elaborate design and containing 
trailing moss-like ferns that wave their plumes under the agency 
of the most gentle zephyrs. Flowering vines and clambering 
roses almost smother the columns, while sago and date palms, 
at points further removed, in front wave their leafy plumes also 
to the passing spectator to a closer interview. To the right, and 
fronting the hexagonal tower, an immense sago palm, of a height 
equal to one-half the altitude of the tower, spreads its plumes 
over a space of from twelve to fifteen feet, meeting an equally 
lofty lantana, upon its right, and similar large but different 
species upon its left, a multitudinous variety of roses diversifying 
its front, thus completing the background of associated beauties 
that must exact the notice of all, even those who may prefer 
other triumphs of residential attainment, to be seen at every turn. 

MACOMBEE VILLA. 

The Macomber mansion, of South Orange Grove avenue, is 
another villa of most prepossessing appearance. Both the plan 
of the building and the perfection of its details show a combina- 
tion that is proven to be most resourceful. It consists primarily 
of a main building standing parallel to the avenue. Taking this 



The San Francisco Club. 333 



as a basis, at a convenient distance from each corner of the same, 
an annex or wing is projected forward, each wing being sepa- 
rated from the other by a central court. The one wing to the 
left of the court is of pentagonal tower-like form, is of two 
stories in height, with a projecting cornice whose metules are 
seen to have characteristic guttae of the Doric style, which we 
have had occasion to refer to frequently as tulip pendants, that 
seems to be a favorite finish with many in this locality. Above 
the cornice are erected massive square posts, at the angles of 
pentagon-shaped flat roof— the said posts being the supports for 
a suitable balustrade. Each face of the tower-like wing con- 
tains a square window in its upper story — the portico of the 
first story being sheltered by a permanent awning conforming 
in shape to the angles of the tower. 

The other projecting wing presents a gable front, the centre 
of whose triangle is occupied by a trinal window — each section 
of which is bowed, the centre one, however, projecting above the 
others. The horizontal base of the triangle projects to such an 
extent as to be considered also as a permanent awning. Cen- 
trally and immediately below this said horizontal projection a 
cylindrical oriole window is hung, flanked on each side by square 
windows— one of which is reticulated in each of its four divisions 
by vertical and horizontal lines, except as to the centre of the 
window, which is occupied by a diamond pane. The other win- 
dow, to the right of the oriole, has its projecting lintel broadened 
into a frieze with terminal pendants — the sill being likewise 
similarly extended outwardly and bracket-supported to receive 
the usual window flower-box. The permanent awning of the 
portico in front of this wing is made to conform to the vertical 
surface of the cylindrical oriole window, while the balance of the 
roof corresponds to the flat surface of the wall upon each side 
of said wmdow. The two awning roofs are made continuous 
across the front of the enclosed court except centrally where 
the roof appears to be flat, and said central portion to be guarded 
in front by a latticed balustrade, beneath which is hung a bracket- 
supported platform, which performs the function of a lintel to 
the main entrance to the portico, that is flanked by Corinthian 



234 The Pilgrimage of 



columns, whose bases rest upon the ends of a low stone parapet 
that extends along the entire front of the same, except where 
broken to admit of ingress to and egress from the portico and 
central court within — said place of ingress being reached from 
the broad driveway b}^ a concrete footpath, whose point of de- 
parture from said driveway is marked by globes of stone resting 
upon pedestals of the same material. Fronting the wings and 
bordering the entrance footway are parterres of flowers and 
plano-concave lawns, that extend right and left toward the 
foreground — the concave side of the laA\Tis Iwrdering upon 
the main driveway — the inner concave of the driveway border- 
ing a central lawn of magnificent proportions that is dotted here 
and there with sago, fan and date palms of all sizes, and an ad- 
ditional variety of ornamental shade trees and shrubbery of 
whose extent in this locality has already been referred to. The 
grounds being of considerable area and depth, and the mansion 
occupying the remote background, the whole view is brought 
out in more perfect perspective than if the view were much 
more restricted. This last-named advantage of breadth and 
depth of grounds in admitting of the triumphs of the architect 
and landscape gardener is also illustrated in like degree in the 
case of 

"TOERINGTON PLACE" VILLA. 

The residence of Mrs. Swan is known as "Torrington Place." 
The group of buildings is, however, so artistic in its arrange- 
ment of small and large gables, oblong, square and dormer win- 
dows, its succession of oblong, semi-circular and circular ve- 
randas, with their chaste white Ionic columns and elaborate en- 
tablatures, supporting roof promenades with unparalleled out- 
looks of lawns, parterres, bowers and ornamental shade-trees that 
would require the genius of the highest poetic imagery to ade- 
quately portray ; therefore, we must decline the task. We would, 
therefore, not attempt the portrayal of the realized dream, but 
leave to the memory of those who saw the original the pleasure 
of bringing back, at least the salient points of the reality. While 
ruminating upon this and other gems of this locality, we thought 



The San Francisco Club. 335 

of Claude Malnotte's palace, that Bulwer puts into the mouth 
of the former in his portrayal of the home that he would erect 
for his fair inamorata, if "love be permitted to fulfill its prayers," 
and, hence, he calls upon her to listen as he dilates upon its at- 
tractions. "It would be," says he, "a palace that lifts to the 
eternal heavens its marble walls from amidst bowers of brightest 
foliage, musical with birds, whose songs should syllable thy name. 
It should be near a clear lake glassing softest skies, as cloudless, 
save by rare and roseate shadows, as I would have thy fate. At 
noon, we'd sit beneath the arching vines and wonder how the 
world could be unhappy while heaven still left us youth and love. 
We'd have no friends that were not lovers. We'd read no books 
that were not tales of love, that we might smile to think how 
poorly the eloquence of words translates the poetry of hearts like 
ours ; and when night came, beneath the breathless heavens we'd 
guess what star shall be our home, when love becomes immortal ; 
while the perfumed light steals through the mists of alabaster 
lamps, and every air is heavy with the sighs of orange groves, 
and the music of sweet lutes and the murmurs of low fountains 
that gush forth in the midst of roses." 

But here, amid other residential creations, we find a fair 
counterpart to Melnotte's dream, and, therefore, we shall men- 
tion those yet to be simply by name, and thus give opportunity to 
the imaginative members of the Club who may thus recall them 
to invest the same with like charms as those that Bulwer has 
woven about his residential creation. 

We would like to dwell at some length upon the attractions of 
"Carmelita," the residence of Mrs. Eeed, upon Orange Grove 
avenue, as a good second to "Torrington Place," but we must 
forbear, 

Merwin's "Miraffores," on Buena Vista street, as its name 
indicates, is nearly buried in a deluge of lantanas, and an in- 
numerable number of other flowering plants. 

The mansions of Kendall and Barnum, upon South Orange 
Grove avenue, are well worth critical examination. 

The Marble residence, on Bellefontaine street, and that of 



236 The Pilgrimage of 



Mrs. Macy, on Markham street, are also quite attractive in ap- 
pearance. 

The mansions of Bishop Johnson, South Grand avenue, and 
Hon. James McLachlin, at the intersection of Marengo avenue 
and California street, are particularly noted for their arhoreal 
park-like surroundings. 

Those of Mrs. Breed, on West California street, and Dr. 
Bleeker, on North Marengo avenue, have like arboreal displays, 
though their grounds are not so large as the last two above 
mentioned. 

The Metcalf residence, on "West Colorado street, and that 
of Mr. Miller, on South Grand avenue, are noted — the former 
for its immense sago palms, and the latter for the same and 
pepper trees that almost bury with their luxuriance. 

But space wall not admit of mention of other residential 
beauties, since they bewilder by their multitude. Hence, as a 
fit finale, we can but mention the superb vistas of East Colorado 
and Columbia streets, and that of South Grand avenue. The 
first-named combines the views of a number of beautiful resi- 
dences, amid indescribable surroundings of arboreal and horti- 
cultural beauty. That of Columbia street is more conspicuous 
for its vigorous growth of shade trees indigenous to the locality, 
that border both sides of the street, and, hence, as one stands in 
the middle of the street and looks westward, the effect of the 
embowering trees is more palpable than the imperfect view of the 
residences that stand removed more or less from the sidewalk. 
That of South Grand takes in a broader lateral view, for the 
reason that the residences stand much farther in the background 
than in either of the aforesaid cases. It may well be labeled — 
"seek no farther," as it combines so much that, in leaving it, 
one feels that it cannot be excelled, at least so far as we saw, 
in this city of multitudinous vistas. We will, therefore, go 
no farther. 

And last, before we take our departure from this city of the 
"Land of the Afternoon," we must record our visit to one of the 
landmarks thereof — the great "Live Oak Tree," that stands in 
the foreground of one of the little parks. Its numerous and 



The San Francisco Club. 237 



huge branches, that of themselves are equal to the trunks of 
many of the largest trees elsewhere, are spread out like an im- 
mense bouquet from the main trunk, that we were informed 
is eighty-six feet in diameter. We think, however, that our 
informant intended to say circumference, as we were not in- 
clined to think it larger than that measurement would sanction. 
It, however, presented a most majestic appearance, and over- 
shadowed a very large plot of ground. 

The day, however, of unparalleled like experiences amid the 
realities of homes made beautiful by every device of art and 
triumph of nature is drawing rapidly to a close, and the ap- 
proaching shadows remind us that Los Angeles is seven miles 
away and the demands of the evening, after a call at the Special, 
are imperious. We, therefore, must away with the promise, at 
least silently made, that the scenes of the day are so worthy of 
rehearsal, that it is hoped, at no distant future day, the same 
shall be re-experienced under circumstances when we may ab- 
sorb more at our leisure, much to which we have been able to 
give only a cursory view, and which we desire more fully to 
enjoy, with all their suggestive associations. 

Therefore, after returning our sincere thanks to our agreeable 
and intelligent chaperons, in their efforts to entertain and in- 
struct, and bidding farewell to our knightly and courteous 
friend, Sir John McDonald, we take the short-line trolley, and 
are soon at our place of rendezvous aboard the Special. 




O O 



238 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

EETUEN TO LOS ANGELES. 

Dinner being duly despatched, we confer concerning the pro- 
gram of the evening. Many of the Knights and their Ladies 
who had failed to participate in the reception at the Masonic 
Temple on the previous evening, thought it advisable to take 
advantage of our last opportunity of now doing so. Hence, the 
great majority, both of those who had previously enjoyed the 
festivities of the evening before, as well as of those who had 
not, made their due appearance. The writer and his companion 
were among the repeaters, as it is presumed that we recognize 
"a good thing when we see it." We record that the entertain- 
ment was even more elaborate than that of the previous evening. 
The music of the women's orchestra of seven pieces, the Terpsi- 
chorean movements upon the banqueting floor, the social ameni- 
ties more universally cultivated, and the courtesies of the re- 
freshment table more lavishly dispensed, if possible, than as 
before participated in. 

Therefore, as a parting reminder of the pregnant occasion, 
a souvenir booklet was presented to each Knight or Lady, having 
upon its title page the following: "This little souvenir of the 
pueble of the Queen of the Angles, Los Angeles, the chief city 
of the "Land of the Afternoon," and the Commercial Metropolis 
of the Great Southwest, is presented with the fraternal greetings 
of the five hundred and twenty-five members of Los Angeles 
Commandery, No. 9, Knights Templar, to their visiting fraters, 
from all parts of the world. September, 1904." 

Upon an examination of this neat little booklet, we were 
happy to discover that it confirmed much that we had gleaned 
from other sources, with cuts giving bird's-eye views of the city, 
vistas of its principal streets and a few of its public points of 
interest, and, therefore, we felt renewed confidence in the data 
that we had already recorded of our peregrinations over the city 
and its environs. 



The San Francisco Clnh. 239 

And here, in passing to other associations allow us to say 
that, as all the Knights and their Ladies did not, at the same 
time, visit the same localities, and some of us were obliged to 
omit a portion from our personal programs, we cannot, therefore, 
speak of those localities from personal observation. Therefore, 
in referring to the same, we will be obliged to depend upon the 
reports of others, if we would make the narrative more or less 
complete. 

Among those already referred to was that of Mt. Lowe, which 
is spoken of as a point of much interest, as we shall briefly record. 
In making this trip, reference to the intermediate points between 
Los Angeles and the point of ascent to Mt. Lowe need not be 
made. We will, therefore, state that it is at Eubio Canyon that 
the tourist takes the incline car, after an ascent from Los 
Angeles of 2,100 feet. "To stand at the foot of the incline and 
look up at the next stage of the trip is a thrilling experience and 
not soon forgotten. The grades of the incline are 69, 62, 58 and 
48 per cent., and in a distance of 3,000 feet one ascends an alti- 
tude of 1,300 feet. It is, in many respects, one of the most 
interesting railways in the world, and one of its attractive 
features is the steepest bridge ever built, being 200 in length and 
the upper end being 120 feet higher than the lower end. The 
road is made absolutely safe ))y ample safety devices, and af- 
fords many thrilling experiences. This great product of science 
and genius seems at first an impossible fact, but as we ascend 
and, seemingly, leave the earth, a broader and better view of the 
valley, the cities and surrounding country is obtained, and we 
are led to marvel at the achievements and the glorious scenes 
about us. We step out of the car upon Echo Mountain, 3,500 
feet above the sea, and behold a perfect panorama of land and 
ocean. At this point is situated the Echo Mountain Chalet, 
commanding such a view of the incline railway as to observe all 
of the different grades, the Casino and famous Observatory. 
After some of the points of interest are searched out in this 
locality, the Observatory is visited. Here, also, is obtained a 
commanding view of the San Gabriel, Le Canada and San Fer- 
nando Valleys ; Altadena, Pasadena, Los Angeles and the Pacific 



240 The Pilgrimage of 



Ocean, and, farther removed, Santa Catalina, San Clemente, 
Santa Barbara and the San Nicholas Islands. From Echo 
Mountain to Alpine Tavern one moves through the grandest of 
mountain scenery. Constantly ascending higher and higher, 
winding around the edges of beautiful canons, looking down 
their steep and precipitous sides, observing still another canon 
just beyond us, and soon coming to a point which a few moments 
previous was directly beneath us, revealing many loops on the 
winding road. Soon we are upon the Great Circular Bridge, 
which strands a beautiful canon, making a circle around the 
spur of the mountain. Los Flores and Millard Canons, Cape of 
Good Hope, Live Oak Grove, Gut Heil Loop, Circular Bridge, 
Sunset Point, Granite Gate, Grand Canon, Alpine Park and Mt. 
Lowe Springs are beautiful and inviting points of interest, which 
are seen in succession after leaving Echo Mountain en route to 
the Alpine Tavern. We reach the last-named, 5,000 feet above 
sea level, the view of which suddenly breaks upon us as one 
rounds the last curve of the winding mountain railway. At the 
Tavern the Incline Eailway terminates, and the ascent beyond 
to the summit is made by ponies or by foot, which latter mode is 
very exhilarating. The Tavern is located in a forest of mam- 
moth pines and oaks. It is delightfully situated, in a charm- 
ing and picturesque spot at the head of Grand Canon, and 
it is modeled after the Swiss style of architecture, being a com- 
bination of granite and pine, and is a first-class hostelry in 
every respect, with its renowned social hall, which contains a 
mammoth fire-place." 

Of additional trips, the Knights and their Ladies speak en- 
thusiastically. 

Upon the trip to and the return from San Monica, Sir Knight 
Machlin says that upon the outward trip from Los Angeles he 
and his party "passed through 4,000 acres of beautiful rolling 
country, all of which was in lima beans, 3,000 acres being on 
one farm. The vines and pods are baled for feed. No irriga- 
tion is needed, only the fogs from the ocean and the winter 
rains. We also passed by great orchards of olives and lemons, 
and stopped off at Hollywood to see the home and art gallery 



The San Francisco Club. 241 

of Paul de Longpre, the noted painter of flowers. This noted 
artist bade us enter his magnificent residence and make ourselves 
at home. His great park of flowers, of every species, is simply 
indescribable, as are his paintings, which resemble them so closely 
that even a bee would imagine it was going up against the real 
thing. The price asked for one flower scene was $5,000.00, and 
it was not supposed to be upon the bargain counter either." 

Sir Knight Wagner . also chaperoned a party over the same 
route, stopping also to see the attractions of the same artist. 
The courteous gentleman, Paul de Longpre, after opening his 
mansion and gallery to the party, presented each with a large 
card, upon which was engraved upon one side, the front elevation 
of his home and the foregrounds; and upon the reverse side the 
elegant pagoda summer houses, artistically associated parterres 
and ornamental shade trees in the background. 

This Artist Home, the Woman's Club House and a private resi- 
dence of Los Angeles are given in the said Knight Souvenir 
booklet as the most perfect specimens in the region of the Mis- 
sion or Spanish-American style of architecture. They all, 
though differing in details of design, are very beautiful, both in 
their uniqueness and their artistic finish, particularly in the 
fretted work upon the entaljlature above the arches, the lace- 
like balustrade above the same and similar work upon the ver- 
tical surfaces of the flower-])oxes below the broad windows of 
the gables (as shown in the Longpre mansion), and the scalloped 
finish that is a characteristic of all the gables of this style — 
the finial of the same being a disk of a less or greater curvature 
instead of the angular peak of the Gothic. 

And, now, returning from these digressing journeys to the 
Special, after the reception of the Masonic Temple, we sought, 
without ceremony, our couches, and soon were lost to the world, 
to darkness and to ourselves. 

THE LAST DAY. 

The morning of September 3, our last day in Los Angeles, ac- 
cording to the itinerary, being ushered in, all the members of 
the Club were early upon the qui vive to note the trend of 
16 



242 The Pilgrimage of 



thought and to thereby decide how best to improve the time still 
left us. The writer and his companion, after calling upon some 
friends originally from the East, now resident upon Boyle 
Heights, and thereafter returned to the business part of the city, 
concluded to take a run to Long Beach, some twenty-five miles 
distant and accessible by trolley within the period of an hour. 
This is a most popular seaside resort in the estimation of the 
people of Los Angeles, and is constantly patronized by all classes 
of citizens. After leaving the environs of the city, we soon reach 
the town of Florence, a flourishing place of some 800 inhabitants, 
which is surrounded by a fertile and well cultivated district, 
whose products find a ready market in Los Angeles. 

Compton, the next town passed eiv route, has about the same 
number of inhabitants, and is located in the centre of the fruit 
bolt, whose activities give employment to many of its citizens. 
Grapes, citrus fruits and berries grow here in the greatest luxuri- 
ance. The berry crop of such kinds as are particularly popular 
in the East are here cultivated in great abundance, and shipped 
to all parts of the country. After passing through other culti- 
vated sections that continue to maintain the wonderful produc- 
tiveness of the region, and in turn passing through marshy 
patches that betoken the near approach to the coast, we arrive 
at length at our place of destination. Long Beach. The popu- 
larity of this place of resort is immediately impressed upon us 
on account of the immediate recognition upon our part of the 
salubrity of the air, since upon this, one of the warmest days of 
the season an exposure to the intensified glare of the sun is not 
at all oppressive, but rather quite agreeable, as one passes to and 
from along the exposed beach. It is said that bathing in the 
surf is indulged in during the year round, the beach being, at all 
times, the centre of attraction. 

An immense pier extends out into the ocean some 1,600 feet, 
and thus affords accommodations for vessels of the heaviest ton- 
nage at its mooring posts. The beach affords the additional 
attraction of ])eing a magnificent driveway — the surf having 
pounded the sands so compactly that the beach, after a receding 
tide, is almost as unimpressible as the surface of a concrete drive- 



Tli6 San Francisco Club. 243 

way. This resort is called Long Beach for the reason that, for 
the distance of fourteen miles, or for seven miles each direction 
from the said pier, the coast line can be clearly traced by the 
naked eye — the resort occupying the centre of a gentle concave 
curve for that distance. A well-built and commodious pavilion 
occupies the shore end of the pier at a point some 500 feet from 
the beach. Upon this occasion the bathing beach, the pier and 
the pavilion was well patronized, and the last-named somewhat 
crowded. It is true that the crowd was somewhat greater this 
day from the fact that the members of an Order, embracing 
both sexes in its membership, had selected this date as a gala 
day, and representatives thereof by the hundred adorned in 
their gaily-colored regalia, promenaded to and fro — the majority 
of the members being young people in their late teens and early 
twenties, ambitious of seeing who could best enjoy themselves. 
We, too, perambulate, and find the enjoyment contagious, if not 
indigenous to the locality, and, therefore, "asking not the reason 
why," we simply absorb the atmosphere of our environment until 
reminded that Old Sol has commenced to "rush down the skies," 
as it were, under the consciousness that we must terminate our 
day, as he does his. Hence, again, the trolley to Los Angeles. 

DIVERSIONS ELSEWHEEE. 

While we were improving the time at Long Beach, others of 
the Club were elsewhere, gleaning all within their reach, ere 
taking up the return trip to San Francisco, homeward bound, 
via San Jose. We have already spoken of the delightful weather 
at the Beach, while others who visited Redlands and Riverside 
say that the temperature at the former place was 100 degrees, 
and, speaking of this fact, Sir Macklin reports that he heard a 
by-stander contrast said temperature with that of a region "from 
which no traveler returns." Not having, however, ourselves 
visited either of the said localities, we are not in a position to 
confirm or deny the allegations, and will, therefore, leave the 
matter still an open question for those that may be called upon 
to attest the facts in the case — a decision that it is to be hoped 
will not fall to the lot of any of the Club. 



344 The Pilgrimage of 



It is true that Sir. M. does not confine his observations at 
Redlands and Eiverside to the mere matter of the heat, but he 
speaks of "the greatness of their orange and lemon orchards," 
which is a fact of state-wide knowledge. Speaking of Riverside, 
another has said: "Eiverside manages to cover 25,000 acres, 
and this great extent of territory has upon it between 3,000 and 
4,000 inhabitants. But did ever any one behold a more beauti- 
ful sight than this orchard city, reclining in the midst of orange 
groves, its magnificent avenues lined with ornamental trees, 
among which the Oriental palm is most conspicuous, its artistic 
villa residences surrounded with grounds in which the care of 
the landscape gardener can be seen, its fine business blocks of 
brick and stone, its handsome hotels, and its surrounding vine- 
yards making it a perfect bower of beauty." 

But now the clans have all reported at the Special, have 
rehearsed to each other the experiences of the day, either briefly 
or at large, according to the loquacity of the speaker, and, con- 
cluding their rehearsals, have agreed that the time of the re- 
tracement of footsteps homeward has come. With these, and 
like declarations, one and all "turn in," to seek the recuperation 
of sleep, with the assurance that the thirty-two miles of the 
distance to San Jose will be traversed ere the hours of the early 
morn shall greet us. 




^ w My 
o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 345 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

SAN JOSE. 

San Jose, September 4, found the Special at about 7 :30 A. 
M. at the railway station, whence we were sidetracked, to spend 
the day (Sunday), according to our several inclinations. The 
writer and his companion, with others of the Club, after having 
despatched a late breakfast, went to the railway station to see 
the departure of the delegation by tally-ho to visit the Lick Ob- 
servatory, some twenty-eight miles distant. Having wished hon 
voyage to the same, we went to church, as did also other members 
of the Club, and thus we spent the balance of the forenoon. 
How others also spent the day is best related by Sir Maeklin. 
After stating that the city had been explored pretty thoroughly 
during the morning, he relates that with others "in the after- 
noon he rode out on the street cars, ten miles, from San Jose, 
through one continuous succession of fruit orchards, and when 
he came to the foothills of Santa Cruz Mountains, they were 
still seen on the sloping sides of the mountains, half-way to 
the summit. Such a vision of the productiveness of California 
had not before been granted to us. Every kind of fruit grows 
in the Santa Clara Valley, first in importance and value being 
the cultivation of prunes, which are now being picked, not off the 
trees, but from the ground after they fall, by Chinese and Jap 
labor. The prunes are then dried in the sun for five days. 
Apricots are also very profitable. The brighest and best fruit is 
now selling at nine cents per pound. The pits of the apricot 
bring $8.00 per ton in San Jose, where the hard shell is cracked 
by machinery, the kernels taken out and used in medicinal prepa- 
rations. Here also, are orchards of peaches, English walnuts, 
almonds, olive trees, lemons, oranges, etc. A relative of mine, 
Mrs. E. B. North, formerly from Mifflin County, of Pennsyl- 
vania, has here a fine fruit ranch of 160 acres, on the foothills, 
from which a magnificent view of the valley is obtained, and it 



246 The Pilgrimage of 



is to her we are indebted for many courtesies. Her crop of 
fruit this year is thirty tons, many of her trees being just in 
bearing. On these uplands of the charming valley one inhales 
the pure, dry and bracing atmosphere, the nights being cool 
enough in summer for a covering of blankets. After a further 
extension of our journey to Los Gatos, a summer and winter 
resort for Californians, we returned to San Jose, the electric 
car spinning through the long shady avenues of trees at forty 
miles per hour, and an overcoat is very comfortable, although the 
sun shines hot in the valley below. San Jose depends altogether 
upon its fruit industries for its existence, and it is a busy one." 
Under other circumstances, we would have liked to have been 
one of the delegation who visited Mt. Hamilton and the Lick 
Observatory thereon, but the distance to be traversed by team, 
the round trip requiring an entire day, the fact that the great 
telescope was not at the disposal of visitors, except upon Satur- 
day nights, and for other reasons we thought that we could 
better dispose of the time saved by giving up this special trip. 
The facts connected with the foundation and equipment of this 
Observatory has been a subject of much interest to the writer 
since its early inception. It will, no doubt, be recalled by many 
members of the Club that the disposition of his estate by Mr. 
James Lick, in his will, of some $4,000,000 to charitable and 
educational institutions, was a surprise to even his most inti- 
mate friends, as his habits of selfishness and avarice would have 
suggested a very different sequel. The largest bequest of his 
estate made to any one object was that of $700,000 for the es- 
tablishment of this Observatory, as a gift to the University of 
California. Mr. Lick selected the site, and at that time it was 
inaccessible. The land belonged to tlie United States Government, 
and Congress granted 1,600 acres of it for the uses of the Ob- 
servatory. Another condition contained in the will was that the 
County of Santa Clara, in which the site is located, should build 
a road to the summit of the mountain to the place of the site, 
at a cost of not less than $75,000. The county accepted the 
terms, and exceeded that amount and expended $100,000 thereon 
— the road proper being twenty-one miles long. It is called 



The San Francisco Club. 247 

Lick Avenue, and is one of the finest roads in the entire West. 
The grades are so gentle that it is said that they do not exceed, 
at any one place six and three-fourths feet in one hundred; and 
that a team can ascend any part of the road upon a trot. A 
further requirement of the will was in connection with the tele- 
scope, was that "it was to be a powerful one, superior to and 
more powerful than any telescope yet made." 

The erection of the Observatory was begun in July, 1888, and 
the work was carried forward under great difficulties — everything 
needed therein being necessarily transported to the summit, 
which is 4,440 feet above the sea. The fortunate discovery of a 
spring not far below the summit, and that of a bed of good brick 
clay about one-sixth of a mile further down was made avail- 
able, and soon a reservoir of 300,000 gallons was erected close 
to the site, being hewn out of the solid rock, and thus urgent 
needs were met. The Observatory is said to be some 280 feet 
long, and its parts consist of a transit-house, meridian circle, 
a photoheliograph and heliostat, and photograph house. The 
main building stands due north and south, and fronts west — the 
best position possible for astronomical purposes. The refractor 
is thirty-six inches and is the second largest in the world. The 
body of Mr. Lick rests beneath the base of the Observatory. 

PALO ALTO. 

Upon our return from church, after partaking of lunch at the 
Special, some of the Club proposed to go to Palo Alto, and the 
proposition being entertained, we arrived there in time at attend 
services in the Memorial Chapel of the world-renowned Stanford 
University. Having previously read of this wonderful produc- 
tion of art, whose erection cost more than $1,000,000, we were 
most desirous of seeing it. This we were able to do, somewhat 
in detail, after the close of the religious services. The lofty 
technique embodied in the mural paintings and mosaics were 
so fascinating and permanently impressive, that we feel confident 
of the truth of the assertion that the same is not equaled from 
an artistic standpoint in any building of the country, unless, 
perhaps, in its mosaics of the Congressional Library of Wash- 



248 The Pilgrimage of 



ington, which many of us have seen. Its cathedral-like appear- 
ance, when taken as a whole, its graceful arches and stained-glass 
windows, as seen in the mellow light diifused through chancel 
and transept made an impression that still haunts the corridors 
of memory, and keeps ever vigorous the desire to again dwell 
upon the enchanting vision. 

LELAND STANFOED, JK., UNIVERSITY. 

The Stanford Palo Alto estate of 7,300 acres, upon which the 
University is erected, is part of the endowment thereof — the total 
of which is $35,000,000, which sum makes the University the 
richest endowed educational institution in the world. Taken 
in their entirety, the University Buildings constitute the most 
beautiful group in America. They all constitute a part of a 
magnificent plan, are built of the brown sandstone for which 
this valley is noted, which is of an agreeable light shade, and 
contrasts well with the perennial green of the environment. The 
separate buildings are restricted to two stories, long arched cor- 
ridors bordering and affording entrance to the lecture rooms of 
the ground floor — the entire assemblage being so relatively situ- 
ated as to enclose a most magnificent quadrangle, that is some 
580 feet long and 240 broad. The approach, in front, to the 
quadrangle, is spanned by a massive memorial arch, whose archi- 
trave is surmounted by an appropriate allegorical frieze, that is 
worthy of a minute study — the archway at a fixed point, appear-, 
ing as a fit frame- work for the superb group in bronze of Leland 
Stanford, in erect posture facing the son, who is facing the arch, 
and the wife and mother, Mrs. Stanford, kneeling by the side of 
the son — Leland Stanford, Jr. The gateway, or entrance to 
the campus, is of beautiful design, after the Spanish-American 
style. It consists in the main of two square towers, built of the 
same material of sandstone as the buildings of the quadrangle, 
and are located, one upon each side of the avenue leading to the 
said memorial arch. These towers are forty feet high, and are 
arched over the sidewalk by arches twenty feet high. They are 
roofed with tiles — the roofs being in the form of low square pyra- 
mids, and each flanked upon each side thereof by a shoulder or 



The San Francisco Club. 349 

shelf that is also covered by a half-pyramidal roof. These square 
towers have also each, upon the side thereof removed from the 
entrance way, an arched reredos-like wing of five arches — said 
wings being each terminated at its outer end by a round dome- 
topped tower. These wing arches are merely ornamental open- 
ings, are not used as passageways (their sills being some four 
feet from the ground) and are overtopped with plain entabla- 
tures, cornices and tiled copings — the top of the latter being in 
the same horizontal line as the large arches of the entrance 
towers. The arches of the wing are separated by Doric columns 
with circular abacus, and somewhat similar base. The cost of 
the gateway was $25,000. The number of students of the last 
semester was, we understood, some 1,800, including those of both 
sexes. The maximum number allowed, under the rules, of wo- 
men, is 500. There is no limit to the number of males. The 
dormitories for the accommodation of the students are outside 
the quadrangle — Encina Hall being set apart for the boys, and 
Eoble Hall for the girls. The new chemistry building and 
museum are also outside the quadrangle. The tuition in the 
University is free, and the equipment all that could be expected 
in an institution so richly endowed. 

The town Palo Alto, about ten minutes drive from the Univer- 
sity, is a pretty place, with a population of some 2,500, and is 
an up-to-date town in its educational, business and social require- 
ments. We understood that the place took its name from its 
single lofty tree, a redwood, that was shown to us, and stated to 
be 175 feet in height. There seems to be no others of the same 
species in this part, at least, of the valley, and it is considered 
mysterious how it came to root and grow here. We had not time 
to visit the enclosure by which it is surrounded, but were told 
that the trunk was some twenty feet in diameter at the base. 
The citizens have used every precaution to preserve it by cabling 
it to supports in every direction, that it may not be strained by 
the wind, and have cast up a mound about it to protect the trunk 
and roots. Hence, our curiosity was enhanced rather than abated 
by this recital. 

Upon our return to the station, we took a drive through the 



J50 The Pilgrimage of 



town, and noted some of its pretty residences, surrounded by an 
exuberance of ornamental shrubbery and flowers, and the general 
evidences of thrift that abounded upon every side. By request, 
our driver took us past the house in which the late Eev. Wm. 
Taylor, Missionary Bishop of Africa of the M. E. Church, spent 
the last year of his life. The writer having been personally 
acquainted with him, and in earlier manhood the preceptor of 
his oldest son, we felt a special interest in all that related to 
him and his wonderful career. It was he, as we have before 
stated, that first introduced the Eucalyptus tree into California 
from Australia, that has since become one of its most numerous 
and valuable trees. Since our former reference to this tree, 
we have heard of a case of its rapid growth, in which it attained 
the height of seventy-five feet and a diameter of two feet in eight 
3^ears. 

Having, at length, explored the town to our satisfaction, we re- 
turned to the station, ready for our return to San Jose, at about 
6 P. M. After the lapse of thirty minutes were again aboard 
the Special, qualified to do justice to the menu, and, later, pre- 
pared, according to rule, to enjoy the song service in the Ob- 
servation car. 

We did not await the arrival of the delegation that went, in 
the morning, to Mt. Hamilton, before seeking our berths for 
the night, and, therefore, we did not hear any of them express 
themselves as regards the incidents of the trip. 

OX TO SAN FRANCISCO. 

The morning of the 5th found us rapidly approaching San 
Francisco, where we arrived at 7 oclock, and as we were booked 
for the Euss House, it was announced that we would there break- 
fast. Hence, all Avere in the hurry and bustle to have their 
baggage duly tagged, that no mistake in delivery of the same 
to the hotel should occur. The latter, being upon New Mont- 
gomery street, and at a point removed by but a couple of blocks 
from Market street, we were not long in arriving at what was 
to be our headquarters during our stay in the city. Having, at 
length, gone through the routine of securing, in turn, our keys 



The San Francisco Club. 251 

to our rooms, while awaiting our baggage, and having our 
patience rewarded by its ultimate arrival, we turned in diligently, 
each to identify his own in the huge pyramid upon the sidewalk, 
and when successful, to have the same removed to our respective 
domicils. We also readily recall the further delay entailed upon 
each of us, even after finding our belongings, in having the same 
taken to its final tagged destination. This said ordeal of our 
initial experience, we may say, was a fair sample of the hand-to- 
mouth service that we received at this hostelry during our entire 
stay in the city. Being, at length, enabled to drag our own 
trunk to the elevator, that we might have some lift to our proper 
story, and, thence, by another drag to our proper room, we were, 
at length, enabled to hastily put ourselves in a presentable form 
to appear at the dining-room. But even upon one's arrival 
at the entrance door of the dining-room, one would not rush 
in and take a seat, even though there were never so many chairs 
vacant. This, of course, would not have been up to the standard 
of Russ House etiquette, and, hence, the major domo of the 
door would keep one waiting, even though one-half of the seats 
were unoccupied. It is true that the proprietor would, some- 
times, break the red tape and invite us to seats, after our marrow- 
bones were beginning to protest most vigorously in "learning to 
labor and to wait." And, at length, when once seated, we con- 
fess that, after another lengthy pause in being waited upon, we 
did not aflSrm that our bill of fare was 50 per cent, better, if 
as good, as we would have gotten elsewhere. We overheard a 
patron of the hotel criticising the disparity between the amount 
of his bill at $5.00 per day, and the published proposals of the 
bill of fare, as if it were parvum in multo (little in much). 
Without, however, stating specifically the daily sum for which 
the members of our club were taxed for their accommodations, 
we will say that we have received better service for $2.50 per 
day than were assigned us. Controlled, therefore, by this belief, 
it is natural that we would not be expected to tax our descriptive 
powers in entering into the details of the menu, the appoint- 
ments of our dormitories, or the mural attractions of the bar- 
room. It was, therefore, but natural that we should first visit 



252 The Pilgrimage of 



the headquarters of the Information Bureau, and get such cir- 
culars of printed matter as would place the visiting Knights and 
their Ladies in a position to receive the courtesies provided 
by the Grand and Subordinate Commanderies of California, 
that we knew would be dispensed with a largess that the Sir 
Knights of the jurisdiction were known to be ever ready to 
dispense; and that, too, to an extent that no other jurisdiction 
could successfully emulate. 




d/ W \!/ 
o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 253 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

PEOGEAM OF ENTEETAINMENT. 

Among the first items of information received was, that the 
California Commanderies had arranged to keep open house at 
tlieir respective headquarters during the entire Conclave week. 
Also, that the Ladies' Committees would hold a reception, with 
entertainment, every afternoon and evening of the same at the 
Palace Hotel, excepting upon Tuesday, the Parade Day. Prep- 
arations had also been made for daily excursions during the 
week to Oakland, Berkley, Alameda, etc., over such systems of 
railway as were designated upon the circulars of information 
distributed to all applicants. 

The illumination of Market and the neighboring portions of 
the intersecting streets was announced to commence upon the 
night of the 3d of September, to continue until the 10th, and, 
hence, enjoyable during the nights of our entire stay in the 
city. And as we have stated that our arrival was upon the 5th, 
we were naturally interested in the first place to learn the 
program of the day and evening, as officially announced. In 
addition to the fact that this day, being "Labor Day" in Cali- 
fornia, most of the places of business were closed and the right 
of way upon the streets was given to the various organizations 
identified with the labor movement, and the incoming com- 
manderies, with the resident escorts of the latter; and, hence, 
the various receptions, etc., of the Knights were announced for 
the evening. Therefore, we note the first of the series for the 
week was an informal reception of that evening, "held in honor 
of the Grand Master and the distinguished visitors by the Ladies' 
Eeception Committee, in the parlors of the Palace Hotel. 

AT THE PALACE HOTEL. 

The wives, sisters and daughters of the most prominent Sir 
Knights of California assumed full charge of the headquarters 



254 The Pilgrimage of 



of the Grand Encampment of the United States, the Grand 
Commandery of California, the delegation of the Grand Priory 
of England and Wales, the representatives of the Grand Priory 
of Canada and the majority of the Grand Jurisdictions of the 
United States, all of which were located at the Palace Hotel." 
And in keeping with the rich regalias of the august bodies were 
the superb "decorations of the large parlors, the main assembly 
room and the fourteen suites of rooms occupied by the distin- 
guished visitors" — handiwork that reflected much credit to the 
taste and ingenuity of the resident and other ladies of the State. 
This was the inaugural to the "receptions and entertainments" 
announced to be held "at these parlors every day and evening 
during the Conclave, for which the choicest and rarest talent 
had been selected and secured. This program was arranged with 
a desire to present such features to the Eastern visitors that 
would be entire novelties to them. Among special artists en- 
gaged for the occasion were natives from China, Japan, the Ha- 
waiian Islands and the South Sea Islands, appearing in their 
native costumes, chanting their national airs and hymns, ac- 
companied also by their native instruments." These, with other 
specialties, that were open to all, could only be participated 
in to a limited degree, as it was impossible to be omnipresent — 
an attribute that would have been required to have cultivated 
even a moiety of the aforesaid and their counterparts. 

There was still, however, a considerable portion of the day at 
the disposal of the members of the Club before the arrival of the 
evening, though, as before stated, the occasion was not as favor- 
able, as upon other days, to take in the features of the general 
situation. It may, therefore, be well to state that in speaking 
of the different entertainments attended and the localities visited 
upon this and subsequent days, it may well be borne in mind 
that the aforesaid limitations to being everywhere at the same 
time did exist. Therefore, in referring to any locality, it is 
taken for granted that, while it was visited at some convenient 
time, one reference to the same must suffice to cover the experi- 
ences of all. Therefore, as the above-mentioned would not tran- 
spire until evening, opportunity was afforded the Club to visit 



The San Francisco Club. 



points more or less near at hand, upon Market and other con- 
tiguous streets that were accessible, and presented objects of 
interest that we might not see if we postponed for a later more 
convenient season, 

THE DEPARTMENT STORES. 

Upon search, some of the department stores were found open 
for a limited time; ajid, as the ladies have a weakness for such 
objects of curioso as are there displayed, the opportunity could 
not be allowed to pass without, at least, a partial indulgence 
of propensity. A few of the Knights were induced to accom- 
pany their Ladies into these labyrinths of distraction, and dance 
attendance at the numerous shrines of elaborate display whose 
nomenclature is Parisian, but which will also have ofttimes a 
practical phase in placing under contribution the sterner sex 
to meet the exactions of the case in the form of pecuniary 
service. Indeed, it has been said that demonstrations of affec- 
tion have been known to be quite profuse upon the part of the 
fair recipients before such acts of deposit have been known 
to be made. As, however, all gallant Sir Knights are supposed 
to be loyal to the traditions of the cult, it follows, as but a 
matter of course, that they should "shell out" liberally, and 
thus rejoice the heart, while distributing to the adornment of 
the person. And, as we thus pass from one of these places of 
interest to another, we are attracted upon all sides by the elab- 
orate evidences of decorative art displayed upon the facades of 
every conspicuous building — demonstrative that the gala days 
have commenced; and that the holiday attire is the specialty 
of the hour; the gates of welcome being thrown open wide to 
every guest; the tables spread; and the preparations for the 
feast of reason and flow of soul elaborated by an unstinted hand 
for the representative Knights here congregated from all parts 
of the continent and over the sea. 

THE DECORATIONS. 

But, while the decorations under a sun-lit sky are most prodi- 
gally illustrated in varieties of design and color, that fairly put 



256 The Pilgrimage of 



to test the highest efforts of talent as demonstrated in the col- 
losal insignia of mounted and helmeted knight upon a like pro- 
tected and gaily caparisoned steed, lance at rest and shield 
abreast; or again exhibited in a huge passion cross and crown 
vis a vis to a like immense maltese cross, or shield at rest and 
swords transverse — here posed upon the background of some 
ornate architectural pile; or there adding their increment to 
the chaste white of some Court of Honor, whose fluted columns 
and classic capitals adorn the curb-line in pairs and trios ; or in 
their upper entablatures add to the succession of the adorn- 
ments of the higher building stories in close rapport thereto. 
Thus, upon the ]\Iarket street fronts, innumerable banners, en- 
wreathed in evergreen, and flags festooned in almost bewilder- 
ing designs bear evidence to the taste of the private citizen; or 
to that of some dominant mind in management of some mart 
of trade that, having caught the inspiration of the occasion, 
vied with each other in excusable emulation as to who would best 
embody in color and design the joyous associations of a pag- 
eantry that in the regalia of warfare emphasize the attrac- 
tions of peace — the sentiment of those that would learn war 
no more — the implements of the past being now but the sym- 
bols of a contest waged, not upon the ensanguined field of honor, 
but upon the broad plain of human sympathies by the cultiva- 
tion of the amenities of social life. And as the beautiful in- 
signia of the Order, amid their multitudinous settings, revealed 
their specific forms under the blaze of the mid-day sun; and, 
later, glowing under the mellowing reflections of the declining 
day, only to give place to the radiant sheen of the myriad lights 
that would so soon dissipate the gathering shadows of the ap- 
proaching evening. Hence, under the enchanter's wand, the 
glow of the electric deluge is held in reservation to enswathe 
facade and tower, pillar and arch, public and private building; 
or enwrap the improvised piles of court, park and circle in a 
mantle of incandescent flame, that only decorative genius can 
devise, and the highest talent of applied science make a prac- 
tical success. We will not, however, anticipate the visions of 
the night-watches, but will await the realization of the prophecy 



The San Francisco Club. 257 

now foreshadowed upon ever}^ side, ere dwelling upon the facts 
of the materialized dream. Therefore, as opportunity is still 
available to visit one or more points that at a later period of 
the weeiv will be most densely thronged, some of the Club thought 
it best to anticipate the leisure of the evening by visiting, during 
the daylight, the afore-mentioned Palace Hotel — the reputed 
chief of hostelries of the Occident, and, we may say, the peer 
of any upon the continent. 

THE PALACE HOTEL. 

When erected, some twenty-five or more years ago, it was 
Tanked as the largest, the most elegantly furnished, and, in 
most respects, the most complete hostelry in the land. The 
companion of the -^vTiter was a guest of this hotel some twenty 
years since; and, therefore, from her description, we admit 
that we felt some curiosity to see the same, and take in some 
of its vast proportions and elegance of outfit. Occupying an 
entire block, bounded by ISTew Montgomery, Market, Annie and 
Jessie streets, it covers an area of some 96,000 square feet, 
being some 345 feet by 365, or in distance around, of just about 
one-fourth of a mile. And, yet, notwithstanding its immense 
facilities for the accommodation of its guests in its seven-story 
apartments, it has absorbed, as an annex, the Grand Hotel, 
upon the opposite side of New Montgomery street. The Palace 
Hotel proper is, however, that which most interests the visitor. 
Upon an entrance into the hotel the first thing that attracts the 
attention is the grand central court, that confronts the visitor 
upon passing beyond the threshhold from the New Montgomery 
street entrance. 

This enclosure is some 140 feet by 85, upon the ground floor, 
and upon looking upward it is seen to be kept open to the roof, 
115 feet from the floor — the same being primarily a lighting 
shaft; and, hence, roofed over with glass and afi'ording a roof 
promenade of one-third of a mile continuous walk. The inter- 
mediate seven stories have each ornamental column-guarded 
and balustraded balconies passing around the four sides of the 
said shaft at each floor — the columns at the ends being arranged 
17 



258 The Pilgrimage of 



in pairs (their pedestals being a part of the balustrade), the 
columns upon the sides being in groups of four in a line — the 
central two resting upon the same pedestal; and the outer two 
having each a separate one, and wider spaced from each con- 
tiguous column, than the central two are from each other; 
thus enhancing the effect as seen in a continuous line from the 
point of observation. 

This columnar unifornity is observed from the floor of the 
second story to that of the seventh — the top floor having only 
the balustrade and the pedestals corresponding to those of the 
floors below, but supporting urns of tropical plants that luxuriate 
in the intenser light there prevailing, while guarding the inner 
floor limits of a canopied promenade of most ample dimensions. 
The first story of this court being twenty-seven feet high, has 
arched entrance ways, supported also by columns in style similar 
to those above, but terminating at the spring of the arch. The 
foreground of the ground floor of the court is filled with palms, 
cacti, rubber and other plants, flourishing in all the luxuriance 
of a conservatory, while the background is separated therefrom 
by a series of columns supporting centrally a semi-circular en- 
tablature surmounted by a balustrade, whose posts are pedestals 
supporting urns of tropical plants, as in the case of the seventh 
floor — the diameter side of said semi-circle, in consequence of 
being shorter than the breadth of the court, is connected termi- 
nally by rectangular projections of the entablature that are pro- 
longed to central open archways of the sides — each projection 
being supported by two pairs of identical columns. These col- 
umns, the floor balustrade, and the plants of the foreground 
serve as a screen to the background space that is utilized as a 
special lunch room. It is, therefore, recalled that by this balus- 
trade and columnar arrangement each floor has its promenade 
around the central court, or shaft, from which entrances are 
made to the rooms contiguous thereto. Hence, opening upon 
the first floor promenade are the offices, reception and reading 
rooms, the parlors, the breakfast and dining-rooms. Upon the 
second floor are found the chief or grand parlors, and the wide 
communicating halls, that were particularly utilized upon this 



The San Francisco Club. 259 

Grand Encampment occasion, and were particularly adapted 
thereto. The rooms of all the floors are spacious and number 
some 1,500 sleeping apartments and 900 bath rooms — all of which 
are most handsomely furnished. The cost of the furniture 
and carpeting preparatory to the original opening was estimated 
to have reached the enormous figure of $500,000 ; and the build- 
ing itself at $6,500,000, which has no doubt been increased in 
later years by the improvements necessitated by the demands 
of modern hotel life. The chief external material is white 
marble, the roof being of tin, the partitions of brick, and the 
cornice of zinc and iron. It is, therefore, seen that such a vast 
weight of material must require an immensely strong foundation 
and most formidable upper sustaining walls. This, we learned, 
is the case, as shown by the following data that we got from 
original sources, some fifteen years since : 

"The foundation walls are twelve feet thick — all others rang- 
ing from one and one and a half to four and one-half in thickness. 
The foundation walls, at their base, are built with inverted arches. 
All exterior, interior and partition walls, at every five feet, com- 
mencing from the bottom of the foundation, are banded together 
with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a perfect iron basket work, 
filled in with brick. The quantity of iron so used increases in 
every story toward the roof, and in the upper story the iron 
bands are only two feet apart. Besides the city water works, 
a supply of water comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch 
bore, which have a capacity of 28,000 gallons per hour. A reser- 
voir is located under the central court, capable of holding 
630,000 gallons. On the roof are seven tanks, which hold 
128,000 gallons. The hotel is supplied with two steam force 
pumps for water, and two additional for fire." It is, therefore, 
seen even by the cursory observer, that elegance of appointments 
are liberally combined with a maximum of safety — two requi- 
sites that are of prime consideration to an exacting public, and 
now demanded by those whom business or pleasure require to 
leave their homes for a more or less limited period. 



260 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

OTHER HOTELS. 

By way of digression, while we are speaking of hostelries in 
particular, it may not be out of place to refer to one or more 
additional ones that have of late come into prominent notice, 
and which now divide much profitable patronage with the Palace, 
and will continue to do so, even to a greater extent in the future. 
Among these are the St. Francis, a twelve-story structure, con- 
sisting of two wings and a separating court, that face Union 
Square, and which, with its chaste beauty of architecture and 
location, make it a most exceptional attraction at this time, in 
addition to its merits as a first-class hostelry. The said attrac- 
tion of Union Square arises from the fact that here is located 
the famous monument erected in commemoration of Admiral 
Dewey's victory at Manila, and that, during Conclave week, this 
square is transformed into a Court of Honor and made particu- 
larly a centre of attraction by its electrical display that is a 
fit counterpart to those of Market street. 

Fairmount Hotel, which is now under process of erection, is 
spoken of as being designed from the capital invested, and the 
elaborate plans adopted in its construction and equipment, to be 
■one of the most magnificent hostelries in the world. It is 
planned to contain five hundred sleeping apartments, each sup- 
plied with a bath annex, in addition to a much more than propor- 
tionate number of sitting rooms, with private dining-rooms, a 
banquet cafe, ball and promenade rooms, enclosed gardens and 
conservatories and all additional appliances requisite to afford 
its guests the luxuries of the most elaborately equipped private 
homes. 

The Occidental and the California have each the reputation of 
being hotels of established and well-earned reputations. Pitts- 
burg Commandery No. 1 is quartered at the latter hotel. 

Among the forty-five additional hotels whose merits have been 



The San Francisco Club. 261 

recommended as of such reputation as entitled them to knightly- 
patronage, we do not find any mention of the Euss House. 
Hence, we cannot but ask, in the language of an eminent con- 
temporarj' — "What is the matter with the Euss House?" Echo 
answers — "Matter, with Euss House." 

OTHEE DIVEETISEMENTS. 

But the associations of the day crowd upon us, and we must 
pass on. Hence, we may say, from the standpoint of what we 
have already seen and heard from those qualified to express an 
opinion that, never before in the history of the city, and we may 
say upon no previous occasion in any city, have such elaborate 
preparations for the entertainment of the Order been made, as 
those on this occasion, for the Twenty-ninth Triennial Conclave 
of the Grand Encampment of the Knights Templar of America. 

While the celebration proper of this event was scheduled to 
continue from the 5th to the 9th of September, inclusive, yet 
arrivals of the Sir Knights and their Ladies were anticipated 
for days previous — an expectation that the facts of the climate 
justified, as based upon the knowledge that the weather at this 
season of the year would admit of the leading features of the 
display continuing unimpaired for some days, both before and 
after published dates, and thus continuously to "greet and glad 
the eye" of both the early comers and the late loiterers in the 
Metropolis of the Pacific — facts that no other locality, from a 
weather standpoint, would admit of. The provisions made for 
the reception of one hundred and twelve special trains from 
distant points, and the multitudes of unannounced Knights and 
their friends, proved that the preparations made were none too 
ample to meet the demand. 

The arrival of the Grand Encampment of the United States, 
headed by the Grand Master, Most Eminent Sir Henry Bates 
Stoddard, with his official family and other distinguished guests, 
representing the most exalted Masonic bodies of both hem- 
ispheres, on August 29th, opened the festival proper. The jour- 
ney of this magnificently-equipped Special is said to have been 
the most triumphant pilgrimage across the continent that has 



262 The Pilgrimage of 



occurred since the opening of the trans-continental lines, and 
the statement is no doubt correct, upon the ground of the experi- 
ence of the San Francisco Club in their participation in a like 
pilgrimage to the same objective point, and under similar au- 
spices. 

The first appearance of the Grand Encampment, accompanied 
by the Grand Commandery of California, in its official capacity 
upon the street, we were informed, was upon the Sabbath of the 
4th inst., under the escort of the Golden Gate Commandery 
No. 16, marching from their headquarters, at Palace Hotel, to 
the First Congregational Church, of which the Eev, George 
Adams is pastor — the sermon of the occasion being preached 
by the Very Eminent Sir Daniel C. Eoberts, Grand Prelate of the 
Grand Encampment. The church was handsomely decorated in 
honor of the occasion. After the conclusion of the services, the 
Grand bodies were escorted back to their headquarters, and re- 
lease from further official duties for the day was duly announced. 

EESUME. 

But to return to the resumption of the thread of the record, 
we remark that, having at this juncture, absorbed about all 
coming under our observation that was suggested as a prepara- 
tory to what had been announced as the program of the later 
evening and the morrow, there was a general gathering of the 
Club wanderers at the Puss headquarters, with appetites whetted 
by exercise, and, hence, ready to discuss practically the bill of 
fare of our first dinner in said hostelry. This incident having 
passed without special epicurean notice being evoked, the strenu- 
ous and their ladies assembled in the vestibule drawing-room and 
compared notes upon the situation. Meanwhile, having been 
informed that the Officers and their Ladies of the Pilgrim Com- 
mandery had arranged to hold a reception at the Palace, the 
matter of a general participation in the festivities thereof was 
in order. Moreover, as this was the first function of the ser- 
vices that we might be called upon to have a part in, there 
was a unanimous desire expressed to put in an appearance 
thereat, and thus show our loyalty to our home institutions, 



The San Francisco Clvh. 263 

as well as, later, to those with which we affiliate. Since there 
were, however, a number of like functions materializing at the 
same time at the respective headquarters of the many com- 
manderies here domiciled, the throngs radiating to these respec- 
tive rallying points were great, and, hence, progress to our own 
was necessarily slow and, therefore, more or less discouraging. 
Besides, some of our Knights had failed to obey the orders duly 
circulated, enjoining upon all to appear in full regalia, that they 
might gain admittance to the reception parlor. Therefore, when 
the door thereto was reached, the unclothed were excluded by the 
inexorable policeman there stationed, with instruction to en- 
force the said rule. In reflecting upon the lot of these dis- 
gruntled, we were forcibly reminded of the New Testament 
parable of the marriage feast at which a guest was found not 
having upon him a wedding garment, and upon having been ex- 
postulated with for having violated a well-known custom, and, 
being speechless, was, therefore, justly excluded. So these Sir 
Knights, not being duly arrayed in their regalia, were excluded 
from a participation in the crowning finale of the Pilgrimage, 
viz, the code recognition of our special official representatives 
as a part of the general officiar}', at the lawfully constituted and 
duly warranted place of Triennial Conclave, and for which 
we had crossed the continent. But, like the wedding guest, they 
knew the law, although an ignorance thereof would have been 
no justification for its violation. We trust, however, that the 
relevancy of the parable may find no further application. More- 
over, the sequel proved that the law-abiding were admitted to 
the presence, and the reception by the Officials of the Grand Com- 
mandery and their Ladies were in line to receive those that were 
duly qualified to do them honor. 

The reception, therefore, being admittedly a part of the res 
gestae, as the legal fraternity would certify, it is well here to 
mention the names of the ladies receiving, that the record may 
not be open to the charge of undue abbreviation. Hence, the 
same are as follows : 

Mrs. Donaldson, Beitler, Diehl, Fryberger, Cunningham, 
Copelin, Forney, Knight, Warren, Weirick, Heinitsch, Patter- 



g64 The Pilgrimage of 



son, Helmbold, Brown, Miss Hembold, Miss Eby and Miss 
Knight. 

These formalities having thus been duly observed, both the re- 
ceiving and the received, were free to mingle socially, and in un- 
restrained converse dwell upon the initial experiences of the day, 
and the anticipations of what were in store for us upon the mor- 
row. Finally, after partaking of light refreshments that neither 
oppressed nor inebriated, we found ourselves free to spend the 
rest of the evening in roving at will through the almost in- 
terminable corridors in a further absorption of the facts of our 
immediate environment, amid the blaze of an incandescence that 
converted the place into a fairy-land, though aware that the 
inhabitants of such a realm could have no conception of such 
a scene as this. Or, laying aside for the time being, a more 
than cursory examination of the refulgent scene, the Knights 
and their Ladies were at leisure to pass without into a more re- 
fulgent glare, like unto that of the solar luminary traveling in 
the zenith of his strength. We, therefore, joined the latter also, 
before we were willing to close the annals of the 5th of Septem- 
ber, 1904. 

Passing out by the IMarket street exit, we are ushered into 
the presence of the triumph of street illumination, as shown 
primarily in the transformation of this great thoroughfare of 
the city into a continuous arcade of light by a resort to the use 
of means effectual and 3^et most simple. The initial step taken 
was to plant substantial flag-staffs some thirty feet apart along 
the opposite curb line vis a vis to each other, the tops of each 
being united by a horizontal wire, from which were pendant 
centrally a pair of more flexible ones — one of which was returned 
to the staff adjacent thereto, about midway of its height and the 
other to the opposite staff, at a like height of elevation — each 
of which being then caught up to a measured distance from the 
medial line of the street upon each side thereof. By this ar- 
rangement two convex curves upon each side of said medial line 
were made that constituted the initial contour of the continuous 
canopy, as each of these combinations of curves were pro- 
jected by the eye to its next similar combination, and, thence. 



The San Francisco Club. 265 

continuously until, in the distance, all seemed to come together 
and thus to complete the canopy to one standing in the middle 
of the street, and looking up or down the broad avenue. The 
illusion is then made complete upon these curved lines being 
thickly strung with innumerable bulbs of incandescent lamps 
and made continuous each to each in the same plane for the 
distance of two and a half miles from the ferry terminus to the 
resident district, extending diagonally through the city. Also, 
at the intersection of the principal cross thoroughfares with 
Market street, special courts of honor were displayed; some con- 
sisting of huge bell-like pendants, whose upper disk or crown 
is connected at its periphery by numberless cords, with a gigantic 
circular band of a much greater diameter — the said cords being 
strung with thousands of vari-colored lamps that, in connection 
with the emblazoned shields and various other knightly in- 
signia pendant from the said band or run, unite to produce an 
effect that, having been seen, will ever remain indelibly im- 
pressed upon the retina of memory. 

THE FLAG-STAFFS. 

Not, however, as mere anchors were the said flag-staffs, 
utilized, but also as the supports of banners, flags, streamers 
and the variety of Templar insignia that enwreathed and 
illuminated, at points above the eaves of the canopy, with 
their special incandescents stood thus in gorgeous and in- 
terminable array as beacons to relieve the upper spaces by 
adding an enfilade of beauteous designs in color that seem to 
mock the iris, and in vermilion-tinted reflections defy the 
shades of night, as well as the powers of description, to stamp 
their realism successfully upon the page, if we would have them 
endure longer than the realities of Conclave week. 

But not upon flag-staff and canopy alone do we see the visions 
of electric triumph, for, turning aside to the courts of honor 
of Union Square (as already adverted to), or the columnar 
groups upon North Market street, whose chaste beauty has been 
referred to as bathed in the sheen of a resplendent sun, and 
now behold its transformation as festooned with many-colored 



266 The Pilgrimage of 



bulbs that enwreathe the fluted shafts, or peep out in similar 
rosettes among the acanthus leaved capitals, or embellish the 
combination of entablatures that crown the pairs, trios and 
quadruple groups of pillars that, right and left, stand vis a vis 
to like structures upon the opposite curb line. 

ILLUMINATION OF BUILDINGS. 

And now, turning from these centres of attraction of the 
street and curb, we lift our eyes to the facades of the buildings 
facing the thoroughfare, and here, also, we behold a rivalry 
of designs, lights and colors that further contribute to diversify 
the enchanting scene. 

THE STATE CAPITAL. 

But, again, looking still higher, as we approach the inter- 
sections of Tenth and L streets, we behold the miracle of il- 
lumination of that most noble pile of the Pacific coast, the 
State Capital. The prominent pilastered wings and columnar 
front of the central building, located upon a three-terraced site, 
and standing with dimensions of 350 feet by 190, independent 
of the dome-crowned tower of the centre, that lifts its graceful 
form to an additional equal elevation above the basal structure, 
supply a most conspicuous pile for the display of illuminative 
art. Directing our gaze to these upper heights, the balcony sur- 
rounding the upper base of the tower, with its twenty-four fluted 
Corinthian columns, affords special facilities for illumination 
l)y the enwrappin<]: of these noble shafts with cords of incan- 
descent bulbs, while not overlooking the surmountaing balus- 
trade of the said balcony, with its ornate finish and glowing 
lamps. Or, again, and yet higher, the second tower section 
appears, with its exterior prominent pilasters corresponding in 
number and position with the columns of the lower section ; and, 
therefore, equally susceptible of a like incandescent garniture, 
but, at the same time, of a contrasted design with that adopted 
in the illumination of the main metallic dome by means of ribs 
of thickly-strung bulbs, whose lines converge to the base of the 
lantern finial, whose panels are separated by another tier of 



The San Francisco Club. 267 

fluted Corinthian columns, twelve in number, that, in turn, sup- 
port the finial dome, upon which rests the pedestal of the Statue 
of California, that, in turn, invites the last touch of pyrotechnic 
splendor, as she looks down upon her robes of light, and, thence, 
beyond to the city, 'neath her feet, wrapped in a flood of like 
electric glory — the counterpart of an illumination that finds its 
loftiest expression in the aureole that encircles her brow. Hence, 
the harmony is complete and nothing more of consummation 
seems desirable. Therefore, while the capitol stands guard at 
the northern terminus of the illuminated district, the ferry 
house, under the transforming agency of a like electric inspira- 
tion, performs a like function at the eastern portal of the Golden 
Gate. The climax of artistic effort has been reached. 

Ne plus ultra becomes our shibboleth, as we turn our foot- 
steps toward the Euss House, and beneath its roof dream of the 
land where the lights never grow dim, and the eye never quails, 
even though "there be no night there, and no need of candle, 
nor light of the sun." 




0/ \i> 
COO 



268 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

THE GRAND PARADE. 

September 6th (Tuesday), the day of the grand parade of the 
assembled thousands of Templars, was ushered in under most 
auspicious circumstances, though in the early hours thereof a 
misty pall rested upon the lower city. All of the Pilgrim con- 
tingent were in early readiness, however, to follow our gallant 
leader, Em. Sir Knight Lewis E. Beitler, and forthwith falling 
into line were conducted to our station on Stockton street, to 
await the command of assignment to our allotted place in the 
memorable procession. After several marches and counter- 
marches, we, at length, reached our said assigned place, and at 
10 A. M. the official movement began. 

ORDER OF PARADE. 

It will be recalled by the Pilgrims that were in line, that the 
order of formation was by divisions, that of the 

First Division 

being headed by twenty-five picked men of the mounted police 
of San Francisco, under the command of Chief of Police Sir 
Ejiight George W. Wittman, with Em. Sir Knight Charles L. 
Field as Commander of the Parade, he being Grand Captain 
General of California, with Past Grand Commander Right Em. 
Sir Frank W. Summer as Chief of Division. 

Then followed, in order, the bodies of the California Com- 
mandery No. 1, Em. Sir Charles M. Plum, Commander, as spe- 
cial escort to the Grand Master. Then came the first carriage, 
bearing the Most Em. Sir Henry Bates Stoddard, Grand Master 
of the Grand Encampment of Knights Templar of the United 
States of America; and the Most Em. the Earl of Euston, 
Grand Master of the Great Priory of England and Wales. 

Second Carriage — R. E. Sir George M. Moulton, Deputy 



The San Francisco Chib. 269 

Grand Master of the Grand Encampment ; and V. E. Charles F. 
Matier, K. C. T., Great yice-Chancellor of the Great Priory. 

Other officers of the Grand Encampment followed in car- 
riages. 

Golden Gate Commandery, ISTo. 16, Em. Sir B. Code, Com- 
mander, as special escort to the Grand Encampment, ]\Iembers of 
the Grand Encampment, and visitors from other Grand Juris- 
dictions in carriages. These completed the First Grand Di- 
vision. 

Other Divisions. 

It would, no doubt, interest the entire membership of the San 
Francisco Club to be able to recall some of the more special 
features of each of the twelve divisions that constituted the 
make-up of the parade, but as this would involve too much 
matter of detail, these will have to be passed over, except in the 
case of the Fifth Division, which was assigned to the Keystone 
State. The reason of this distinction was that Pennsylvania 
was the only State that had a sufficient number of Commanderies 
represented to constitute a complete division, excepting, of 
course, the home State of California. In all other cases a di- 
vision was made up of at least two States, viz, Massachusetts and 
Ehode Island composing the Second Division; or, of the maxi- 
mum of twelve States, in the case of the Eighth Division. Penn- 
sylvania, however, was represented by fourteen Commanderies 
and two Clubs, whose combined membership, including the 
ladies accompanying the Sir Knights, was something over twelve 
hundred. Hence, it may readily be admi1:ted that at least 50 
per cent, of these were Knights. To refer, however, specifically 
to some of the leading features of the 

Fifth Division 

we may say, if we were not mistaken in our observations, that the 
same was preceded by the Grand Standard Bearer, Grand Weid- 
man, who, in a carriage, held aloft the white and black beauseant 
of the Grand Commandery of Pennsylvania. Accompanying 
him w-ere the Sir Knights W. C. Helmbold and W. C. Smith. 



270 The Pilgrimage of 



With the Pennsylvanians rode two Past Grand Masters, the Hon. 
Jas. H. Hojikins, former Lieutenant-Governor of Pennsylvania, 
and General John P. S. Gobin, of Lebanon. We should have 
said that the Eight Em. Wilson I. Fleming, mounted on a 
champing white steed, headed the Division, while, to the rear 
of the Grand Standard Bearer, marched the Sir Knights of the 
Grand Comraandery of Pennsylvania — and then, in due order, 
the subordinate Commanderies of the same. Among the latter, 
as conspicuous, was the Pittsburg Commandery, No. 1, that is 
said to be the largest in the world, and paraded 150 strong. 
They marched to the music of Cassasa's Band, the members of 
which were uniformed in scarlet. The Kadosh Commandery, 
No. 29, was also prominent for its beautiful silk beauseant, which 
had been presented to the Commandery by their ladies. The 
Corinthian Chasseurs (mounted) also presented a very imposing 
appearance. 

To attempt, however, in further comment to give anything 
like an adequate conception of the appearance and evolutions of 
the thousands of the seried host, in their nodding plumes of 
black and white, of lace and plate, decked in all the colors of 
the rainbow, would be a matter of impossibility, as also to note 
the incidents by the way, amid the plaudits of the myriads of 
spectators that welcomed the heroes of the hour, would entail 
a task for which we acknowledge our incapacity, even though 
the effort were demanded. It will not, however, be amiss, in 
passing, to state that, while the Sir Knights of the Club marched 
in measured step and time, with head erect and eye aglow 
under the martial strains that lent their inspiration to the ever- 
changing environment, still the conscious presence of a torrid sun 
of 90 degrees tested full well their physical endurance, as they 
ascended that part of VanNess avenue, that was fitly dubbed the 

SAN JUAN HILL 

of the day's campaign. As one describing that feature of the 
march has graphically said — "Odessa was not in it; and the 
plains where Godfrey Boullion charged in his inaugural inspira- 
tion, could not have been more sore to the foot and more diffi- 



The San Francisco Cluh. 271 

cult of passage to their standard bearers and their loyal fol- 
lowers. History lost all its romance at VanNess avenue and 
Sutter street, and a rapid fire cannon could not have pumped 
the inspiration of the Crusades into a Knight Templar of the 
latter day at this aggravating place of countermarch. But the 
Knights were game, as of yore, and struggled to keep in line 
and pass the reviewing stand with head and plumes still high, 
step steady and evident unconsciousness of strength taxed to 
the limit almost of endurance. The footway previous to the 
ascent of the declivity having been concreted, offered no rough 
surfaces to the now heavy feet of the tramping hosts, but the 
obtruding ledges and the loose rolling stones of the hillside 
united to test wind and muscle, as the panting, perspiring, dis- 
mounted cavaliers trudged along; and, therefore, excusable, if 
suggestive, of the monotony of the dead march. Eallying each 
other to mount the summit without faltering, and reminding the 
novices that the sun was not more powerful than upon like 
occasions in the East, upon the earlier days of the Grand En- 
campment, we succeeded in awakening latent energies to the 
extent that the summit was scaled and the countermarch was 
commenced. Even the writer enlisted the sympathy of the by- 
standers of the curb, when one more impulsive than those by his 
side, cried out — "See, even that old man is sticking to it." 
We could but doff our chapeau, as we smiled at the thought that 
our loose-flowing locks, though gray, should betoken age, since 
we were conscious that our muscles were yet strong to traverse 
the miles of our return to the point of the morning rendezvous, 
and the reviewing stand — still expectant that we would pass 
with undepleted ranks. Some of the Knights thought the line 
of march cruelly long and adversely criticised those that had 
so mapped the same. We were not, however, of this opinion, 
for the reason that we believed that no such demonstrations of 
welcome, as we had witnessed and been the subjects of, could 
have materialized in any other city than that of San Francisco, 
with like unanimity of popular sentiment; and, hence, it was 
but natural that the 200,000 spectators that had made the same 
possible should have ample opportunity of witnessing the pa- 



272 The Pilgrimage of 



rade, and, therefore, to assure this possibility the line had to be 
prolonged. 

Hence, the large majorit}' of the Pilgrims felt like still hold- 
ing on so long as it was possible, that we might thus contribute 
our part in appreciation of what we consider, without fear of 
denial, as being the best Templar exhibit that we have ever 
seen (and we have attended the majority of the Conclaves since 
'71), or expect to see — during the period still left us of our 
earthly pilgrimage. Had the facilities been better for dis- 
tributing pure water instead of a partial supply of a mineral 
compound during the march, we feel assured that our dis- 
comfort from the heat would have been materially less, and, 
therefore, the disposition to drop out of line would have been but 
little yielded to. Desertion, however, commenced soon after the 
descent of the said San Juan Hill; and thus silently our ranks 
began to deplete, although we still made a very good showing, 
as we passed in review before the grand stand. 

Eeference need not now be made to the reviewing officers by 
name, as we passed before them, they having been already men- 
tioned individually as occupying the carriages that headed the 
First Division of the Parade. Upon the arrival of the carriages 
at the grand stand, the officers alighted therefrom and occupied 
their respective positions — the stand being located on VanNess 
avenue, in near proximity to Market street. In passing the 
same, some of us, we admit, did not get as good a view of the 
respective personages as we would have liked, and that partly 
on account of our attention having been diverted for the mo- 
ment by the attractions of the ladies upon the stand opposite. 

OTHER EEVIEWING STANDS. 

We have referred to the stand opposite to that occupied by the 
Officers of the Grand Encampment; and, hence, it appears to 
be appropriate to add, further, that, through the courtesy of the 
Committee of Arrangements of our Club, preparations had there 
been made for the accommodation of our ladies, in addition to 
some seats reserved upon the grand stand; and, therefore, no 
apprehension was felt that the ladies would be deprived of a 



The San Francisco Club. 273 

good view of the entire procession, without any discomfort, ex- 
cept, of course, from the heat. It was estimated that there 
were a thousand or more ladies and children accommodated upon 
that one stand alone. This stand, however, was but one of 
many that occupied both sides of VanNess avenue, at intervals 
of about two blocks, and these, also, were filled to their utmost 
capacity by ladies, children and a few men. These stands, taken 
in connection with the mass of people upon the sidewalks, re- 
vealed an assemblage that was said to be the largest that this 
avenue had ever before accommodated to see a parade. This, 
also, being chiefly a residential part of the city, greater facilities 
were afforded for the erection of stands than in the more busy 
sections of Market street, where the crowds were confined to 
the sidewalks and the windows of the lofty buildings that were 
equally well patronized. 

We must now, however, return to our marching fraters, as we 
proceed down Market street, after leaving the reviewing stand. 
Desertions have now commenced in earnest, as we sweep on- 
ward after the remnants of the preceding Divisions and the 
Commanderies of our own, toward the lower sections of the city, 
even though the crowds still stand as if loath to forsake their 
points of observation. 

And now, upon our turning into New Montgomery street, and 
our arrival at our headquarters, there are but four of us, besides 
our gallant leader, remaining in the ranks upon the roadway; 
although others insist that while they had fallen out of the ranks 
they had followed upon the pavement, and were but a short dis- 
tance in the rear of the remnant that came from the street, with 
step still firm and true, as we entered the Russ House. We do 
not, however, dispute the allegations of those that claim a like 
honor with the immortal four and their Commander, that bear 
the labor and heat of the day, under orders, to the close, and, 
therefore, clung to the street-way even to the last. 

EEMINISCENCES OF THE MAECH. 

The mid-hour of the afternoon chronicled the return to their 
respective headquarters of the participants in the parade — the 
18 



374 The Pilgrimage of 



estimated number of men in line, including the musicians and 
drum corps, was 8,000, and the time of procession by a given 
point was two hours and fifty-five minutes. 

In regard to our own opportunity to view the procession at all 
in detail, this, of course, could be afforded us only upon the 
countermarch, and, therefore, was a matter of much gratification, 
particularly in the case of those Commanderies that had at- 
tained a high state of efficiency in the execution of interesting 
and intricate evolutions while on the march. N"ot, however, to 
make invidious distinctions, we may say that the most conspicu- 
ous were the infantry of the Golden Gate Commandery, that 
occupied the centre of the First Division, and rendered them- 
selves conspicuous by the perfection of their execution of diffi- 
cult evolutions in the various crosses of the Order. And, in the 
cavalry branch of the California Commandery, fancy figures 
were performed without a break. 

THE AFTERMATH. 

But to return again to the thread of our narrative. Upon our 
return to the Euss House, we were not long in availing ourselves 
of a hasty ablution, and, upon doffing our Templar trappings, 
we seat ourselves to enjoy a well-earned dinner, resting, mean- 
while, during the filling of our respective orders. Dinner over, 
we complete a more elaborate rehabilitation of person, prepara- 
tory to taking a walk for exercise, while others, complaining of 
fatigue and somewhat somnolent, seek a siesta. The writer took 
advantage of the broken afternoon to call upon friends; and, 
subsequently, with others, called at headquarters of committees, 
to procure tickets for such entertainments or festal occasions 
as were available for visitors upon application. Eeturning at 
an early hour for supper, and being refreshed thereby, a portion 
of the Knights again start out to take the rounds of the recep- 
tions announced, while others seize the opportunity to rest still 
further, or to entertain friends who called, while others, again, 
strolled along the streets of the illuminated district and ab- 
sorbed, to their satisfaction, as already adverted to, the scenes 
there disclosed, that, in their elaborateness, admitted of many 



The San Francisco Club. 375 

repetitions of view, that would not pall upon the beholder, were 
they dwelt upon never so often. 

Others attend the reception held by the San Jose Command- 
ery, No. 1, at Mechanics' Pavilion. Others, that of the Golden 
Gate Commandery, at Golden Gate Hall, and others, again, still 
partial to home institutions, attend the reception of Pittsburg 
Commandery, No. 1, our oldest Commandery of the Keystone 
State. Eepresented by 283 Knights, they showed the largest 
delegation visiting the Conclave, excepting only the combined 
Commanderies of Los Angeles and Pasadena, and that of Oak- 
land, which is really a suburb of San Francisco. These re- 
ceptions of the Golden Gate Commandery are ever conducted 
upon the most magnificent scale — their hospitality being shown 
in the fact that they announce "open house" from September 
3 to the close of Conclave. 

A SPECIALTY. 

The prince of receptions was that tendered to Grand Master 
Stoddard, at the Palace Hotel, in the main parlors, upon the 
second floor. As reported, it was a most magnificent affair. 

"The Grand Master stood in the north wing to receive his 
guests. Immediately at his left was the Earl of Euston. Next 
came the suite of the distinguished visitor. The Sir Knights 
in the party were dressed in their uniforms, with full regalia. 
The Earl was in evening dress, adorned with his badge of the 
oflfice of the Order he represents. The Ladies of the party were 
superbly gowned and carried magnificent bouquets of beautiful 
roses. 

"The reception began at 8 o'clock, and, so far as the guests of 
honor and the illustrious visitor were concerned, it ended at 
9 :30 o'clock, when the entire party were driven out to the Me- 
chanics' Pavilion, where they visited the difi^erent Commanderies 
that there had their headquarters. During the reception, it was 
estimated that 5,000 people called to pay their respects to the 
Grand Master. The decorations were most lavish. The walls 
of the three big reception rooms were almost entirely hidden 
from view by masses of tropical foliage. In the main room of 



276 The Pilgrimage of 



the reception there was a great mass of fragrant tiger lilies, while 
the side walls were embellished with hop vines. The complete 
floral display was such only as the wealth of the Golden State 
can aftord. 

"Indeed, the entire place looked like a gorgeous conservatory. 
Every kind of flower was in evidence. The magnificence of the 
display even amazed the Californians. The great clusters of 
American Beauty roses that were everywhere apparent excited 
admiration on all sides. A band of music played during the 
entire reception. In the south reception room, which was also 
superbly decorated, delicious refreshments were served. Al- 
though the reception proper ended with the departure of the 
chief guest, crowds of people continued to pour through the 
rooms until long after mid-night. Evening dress was distinctly 
the rule. The Knights were all in uniform, while the visiting 
Ladies were all robed in beautiful ball dresses. The display of 
diamonds and magnificent jewels was a particular feature also." 

Hence, with the aforesaid multitudinous means of entertain- 
ment at their disposal, is it to be wondered at that the Sir 
Knights and their Ladies lamented that they could not be 
ubiquitous. Therefore, the next best thing was to get a homeo- 
pathic share, at least, of each passing reality by flitting, upon 
the wings of expedition, to and from as many of such, in due 
order, as endurance would admit of. And yet a limit was im- 
periously imposed, not only from a muscular standpoint, but also 
on account of the time consumed and the space traversed in 
passing from one centre of attraction to another. Hence, notice 
of the receptions at the Mechanics' Pavilion will have to come 
in later, Menwhile, a recharging of the physical battery com- 
pels a return to the Euss Hotel, and, therefore, the finale of the 
day is sounded. 



Tlie San Francisco Club. 277 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

THE FUETHEE PEOGEAM. 

September 7th. The apparent centre of attraction for this 
day, Wednesday, to probably the most of the visitors, was, 
no doubt, that of the competitive drill bulletined to come off 
at 10 A. M., at the Golden Gate Park. But while this so-called 
event of the day was supposed to appeal more strongly to the 
Knights, rather than to their Ladies, yet there were other di- 
versions that offered to the visitors most attractive substitutes 
therefore, particularly since the limited time at our disposal 
would not admit of our enjoying all. Among these attractions, 
were the very delightful excursions down the San Francisco Bay 
and through the Golden Gate by the steamers Oakland or Tamal- 
pais, that were free to the visitors, either in the morning at 9 :45 
or afternoon at 1 o'clock. The WTiter having selected the latter, 
was necessarily unable to witness the evolutions of the competi- 
tive Sir Knights upon the field, and, therefore, was compelled to 
depend upon the report of another, who was an eye-witness 
thereof. Hence, a brief statement of the same is herewith sub- 
mitted. 

"Fully 25,000 people gathered on the sloping lawns, surround- 
ing the Park base-ball grounds to view the drills. Four corps, 
in all, competed for the prizes. The Louisville delegation, com- 
nianded by Captain Frank Fehr, was the first to drill, and 
promptly at 10 o'clock, headed by their own Commandery Band 
playing "Dixie," they filed into the enclosed space, where the 
drills were held. After a turn across the field and back, the 
Kentuckians came to attention before the judges of the drill, 
and were subjected to a critical inspection. Having passed the 
same, the corps was turned over to Captain Fehr, commanding 
olficer, and the tactics, as laid down by the jurisdiction of Cali- 
fornia, were commenced. Movements in the School of the Sir 
Knight, the School of the Commandery and the Manual of the 
Sword were gone through. 



278 The Pilgrimage of 



"From the first, it was evident that the Kentuekians were won- 
derfully well trained. Their alignment was perfect in every re- 
spect. The movements of hands and feet were as one man, 
and whenever a particularly brilliant movement was executed 
the spectators broke into round after round of cheers. Thirty 
minutes was allowed each corps to go through the schedule of 
movements, and the Louisville corps finished in ample time 
and marched from the field to the tune of "My Old Kentucky 
Home." 

"The Malta Commandery Corps, No. 21, of Binghamton, N. 
Y., was next to take the field. Captain A. W. T. Black, com- 
manded the corps. The New Yorkers gave a fine exhibition of 
drilling, but were much slower in the execution of movements 
than was the Louisville corps. Before the entire schedule of 
movements could be completed the Malta corps was recalled on 
account of the expiration of the time limit. 

"The crack St. Bernard Corps, of Chicago, was the third to 
drill. This Corps has won the championship in the competitive 
drills several times, and was looked on as well nigh invincible. 
The Sir Knights from the Windy City were received with tre- 
mendous cheering, as they appeared on the field, headed by the 
California Commandery Band. In decided contrast to the long, 
easy strides and apparent ease of the Louisville Corps, were the 
sharp, quick movements of the Chicagoans. The St. Bernard 
Knights were granted a special dispensation from the California 
Committee to drill according to their own tactics in several 
of the required manoeuvres, while the balance of the Corps were 
compelled to use the Summer tactics. Though the opinion was 
prevalent that this dispensation might afford a great advantage 
to the St. Bernard Corps, yet the Kentuekians did not object and 
agreed to abide by the Judges' decision. 

"The last competitors were the Ivanhoe Commandery Drill 
Corps, of Milwaukee, commanded by Captain D. Milton Jones. 
This Corps made a very favorable impression with the spectators 
and was continually applauded, but their work was not up to 
that of either the Louisville or St. Bernard Corps. 

"Each of the competing Corps was marked on the basis of 



The San Francisco Club. 279 

810 points — three for each of the 270 movements. The judges, 
three in number, were all officers of the United States Army. 
These followed closely every one of the movements, and mark- 
ings were made to the second decimal place. The exact stand- 
ing of each was as follows: Louisville, 779.54; St. Bernard, 
771.14; Ivanhoe, 725.03; and Malta, 655.82. Hence, the con- 
sensus of opinion was that the Blue Grass Men won a clean-cut 
and decided victory." 

While deprived, therefore, of witnessing the competitive drill 
that is source of great pleasure to every Knight, when such are 
executed in the perfection that prevails upon such occasions as 
this, yet we are happy to say that those of us who selected the 
bay in lieu thereof felt fully compensated by our experiences in 
having made this choice. 

To many of us the enjoyment of this privilege was now the 
first opportunity of our lives of looking upon this world re- 
nowned seaport, that we may say ranks, those of the world in 
its area and land-locked features — a port in which all the navies 
of earth could rendezvous, and still have room for as many more. 

The temperature of the atmosphere upon the water was most 
agreeable — the heat of the full-orbed sun being modified by the 
gentle breeze that came in from the sea; and the transparent 
air magnifying and bringing out into sharp detail the points 
of interest passed in our passage outward and upon the return. 

Thus environed and transported, we were in a position to take 
in somewhat the extent and characteristic features of the watery 
expanse. 

SAN" FEANCISCO BAY. 

The dimensions of the bay are reported to be, in length, some 
50 miles, varying in breadth from 3 to 15 miles, and in being 
amply protected from hostile invasion. It may readily be un- 
derstood what an immense auxiliary is thus afforded in estab- 
lishing and supporting a constantly growing prestige. Sur- 
rounded, too, upon all sides by a most prolific agricultural region 
of varied products that the sun shines upon, in addition to the 
vast mineral products within easy reach, we can readily compre- 



280 The Pilgrimage of 



hend why the countries of foreign lands, as well as our own 
Eastern States, strive for a portion of its trade. The terminus 
of our great trans-continental routes and the chief port of entry 
for the inexhaustible markets beyond the sea, contribute to spe- 
cialize the important function of this sheet of water, upon which 
we now enjoy an outing, and to impress the same upon us. 

In our course of encircling the bay, we pass, in turn, Goat 
Island, that lies directly upon the line from the Market Street 
Ferry Building, to the Oakland pier, and is one of the most 
prominent islands in San Francisco harbor. It is the seat of 
the Training Station of the United States. It has an' area of 
350 acres, and rises 340 feet above the water. After an enjoy- 
able passage of some half hour passed in social converse with 
our agreeable surroundings of Sir Knights and their Ladies 
from other jurisdictions of the East, as well as from the State of 
our hosts; and, participating with them in sampling the lux- 
uriant grapes and other fruits supplied us by the bounteous pur- 
veyors of the excursion — side issues, these, that contribute much, 
to sharpen the social amenities, as well as enliven the physical 
maw — we approach and now find ourselves skirting 

ALCATEAZ ISLAND. 

This island is the site of the military prison that stands, 
formidable and isolated, thereon, and apparently as unassail- 
able as the huge mass of rock, of which it is composed, that 
protrudes its bleak sides from the depths of the bay. In area, 
it is about one-third of a mile long by one-tenth of a mile wide, 
and is guarded by one company of heavy artillery. It is also 
the seat of the Submarine Torpedo Station, fog-bell and light- 
house ; and, hence, is advantageously situated, facing the Golden 
Gate. 

ANGEL ISLAND. 

In turn, we next pass Angel Island, the largest in the bay. 
It contains some 600 acres of land, much of which is under suc- 
cessful cultivation. Its location is also very eligible for harbor 
defense, and is, therefore, equipped with formidable batteries. 



The San Francisco Club. 281 

mostly of heavy gims. Permanent barracks are here erected, 
also, for the contingent of artillerists. 

THE PEESIDIO. 

Meanwhile, we pass the Presidio, the principal military post 
of the Pacific coast, that, for its beauty of situation is un- 
equalled by any other military barracks in the United States. 
Situated upon a broad area of 1,500 acres, beautified by dark 
pines and still darker firs, with its perfect lawns and bordering 
plants and flowers, it has acquired the name of the "Oasis of 
San Francisco." Some of the members of the Club enjoyed the 
privilege of a special visit to the same, while others of us had 
to be content with the view afforded from the steamer's deck, 
as it presented its sweeping incline in command of the magnifi- 
cent bay over which we glide. Having passed boldly out to 
sea, through the Golden Gate, we circle toward the northern 
shore, in full view of 

MT. TAMALPAIS 

and thus catch glimpses of its wonderful railway, that, in many 
respects, is said to eclipse that of Mt. Lowe, that so many of the 
Club have so recently patronized. This mountain-climbing rail- 
way is not, however, a "cog road," like the afore-mentioned ; nor 
are its inclines as steep, but the grade is gradual, at an average 
of but five feet to the hundred. It bears, however, the distinc- 
tion of being the "crookedest" railway line in the world. Being 
compelled to rest content with our limited view from the deck 
of the steamer, we were unable to verify a description of the 
very graphic ascent of which we had read, and, therefore, beg 
leave to give an extract therefrom as among the attractions within 
our reach, and yet so far. 

"There are 281 curves in a distance of eight and one-fifth 
miles, during which there is an ascent of about 2,500 feet, or 
nearly a half-mile, the steepest grade being about 7 per cent. 
If, in following the tortuous curves, the course had been con- 
tinuous, there would be forty-two complete circles made. The 



282 The Pilgrimage of 



longest piece of straight track is but 413 feet, and, strange to 
say, it is the 'crookedest' part of the road. 

"About half way up the mountain, on a broad southern 
shovdder, is 'The Double Bow Knot,' where the track of the 
railroad parallels itself five times within the distance of about 
300 feet, and forms, as the name denotes, an almost perfect 
'Double Bow Knot.' The fact of overcoming the grades in such 
a short distance and by such an ingenious way has caused the 
Double Bow Knot of Mt. Tamalpais to be pronounced one of the 
greatest of railroad engineering feats, 

"Starting from the settlement of Mill Valley, the railway by 
a gentle climb, reaches the lower heights of old Tamalpais, and 
there, for the first time, is opened out to the traveler a vista 
of San Francisco Bay and its surroundings. Higher and higher 
climbs the puffing train and broader and broader expands the 
glittering panorama until, close beside the summit of the 
mountain, the train wliirls around a curve and lands its pas- 
sengers at the very door of the Tamalpais Tavern. There is 
still an ascent of about 300 feet to be traversed on foot before 
the actual peak of the Tamalpais is reached. From the summit 
there is presented a vista which is not equaled at the end of 
any other mountain climb in the world. Almost at the be- 
holder's feet lie the glistening waters of San Francisco Bay; 
and, just beyond them, the city's hills, teeming with life and 
progress. In exactly the opposite direction, the eye sweeps over 
thousands upon thousands of acres of mountain country, all of 
the slopes heavily wooded with giant sequoia, California red- 
wood. Here and there a little lakelet nestles among the hills, 
and, far away to the north, Tom ales Bay breaks its way through 
the chain of hills, cutting inland from the sea. Beyond, and 
to the west, sweep the broad waters of the Pacific, with the 
entrance of the Golden Gate just below us, and, far beyond 
lie the Farallones Islands, the outposts of western commerce, 
where the first light-house welcomes the speeding steamer, as 
she shapes her course homeward from the Orient." 

Such, in part, is the superb view, as described, that is afforded 
from the top of Mt. Tamalpais, that now, in turn, looks down 



The San Francisco Club. 283 

upon us; and, therefore, it is pardonable that we should wish 
to enjoy, also, the reverse view that is above briefly adverted to; 
and that we felt inclined to promise ourselves should some day 
be taken in, should circumstances ever admit of it, of our forming 
a more familiar acquaintance with its attractive heights. 

Meanwhile, the steamer has passed on, and we now pass, in 
close proximity to the fortified lines of the coast defenses, where 
are located the "disappearing guns" of the United States Gov- 
ernment, that protect the entrance to the harbor, commencing 
at Fort Scott, at the low level of the Golden Gate, and stretch- 
ing around to Baker's Beach, that is at the narrowest point of 
the Gate. Thus, Baker's, with Fort Mason, constitute the 
main dependence in defense, and are said to be the most power- 
fully defended fortifications upon either the Pacific or Atlantic 
coasts. 

Passing these points, we are now once more within the harbor 
proper, and stretch our course toward the Ferry House pier. 
In moving onward, we pass, en route, several United States war 
vessels. We halt, for a short time, near the United States flag- 
ship New York, that our company may have the opportunity of 
viewing the same. There were also other war vessels that were 
especially held at anchor for the benefit of the visiting Knights, 
and among these were the steamships Bennington and ]\Iarble- 
head. Also, several torpedo boats were open to inspection, hav- 
ing likewise been detained for all desiring to visit them. As 
the writer had visited the said flagship, we did not now avail 
ourselves of the privilege. Others of the Club, no doubt, did 
so before leaving the city. 

Having thus spent some three hours most agreeably upon said 
excursion, we disembark at the Ferry House, and, thence, return 
without delay to the Euss Hotel. 



284 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

OTHEE POINTS OF ATTRACTION. 

Taking as hasty a dinner as circumstances admitted of, we 
then arrange to visit the equally far-famed Golden Gate Park, 
that we might see to what extent it was a counterpart, from its 
own standpoint, to the locality of the morning that had con- 
ferred the name thereupon. Considering the Park, therefore: 
first, as to its area, we learned that it comprised something more 
than one thousand acres. Also, that its beauty, when taken in 
its entirety, was not equalled by any other in the world, though, 
in area, admitted to be less than that of Philadelphia or Paris. 

The eastern bounds of the Park commence about three miles 
from the ferry building, and extend about three miles farther 
to the ocean beach. It is situated upon the crest of a series of 
parallel hills — the Boulevard being between the two more ele- 
vated ridges, which also (it is claimed) excels even the Bois-de- 
Boulogne of Paris. We hesitate, however, to endorse this as- 
sertion, when we consider the length of time that the Parisian 
boulevard has been in existence, and the advantages conferred 
by time over the possibilities of a much more limited age. The 
writer has himself enjoyed the sylvan attractions of the Bois-de- 
Boulogne, and, hence, will only admit a successful rivalry for 
popular favor. 

The points of interest in the Golden Gate Park, independent 
of the multitudinous designs of lawn and parterres, that fairly 
bewildered by their variety, are, in part, the Conservatory, dis- 
tinguished by its group of artistic buildings surrounding a most 
graceful dome, and containing the rarest varieties of plants and 
flowers, many of which cannot be duplicated upon the continent ; 
the ^luseum, with its rare collection of prehistoric and more 
modern times; the Japanese Tea Garden, with its unique feat- 
ures of designs and ornamental plants, that would repay the 
attention of hours, and, hence, not to be disposed of satisfactorily 



The San Francisco Club. 285 

by a glance. The paddocks of the buffalo and deer, and the oc- 
cupant of the bear-pen — the largest grizzly in captivit}^ — de- 
serve more than a passing notice. The rare and large collec- 
tion of birds distinguishes the aviary, as the second largest in 
the country, and, hence, is a subject of interest during the 
entire year to the ornithologist, as well as the general lover of 
the feathered tribes. The Spreckles' Music Stand is a most 
beautiful specimen of architectural work. The pieces of statu- 
ary of statemen and scholars add a material increment in height- 
ening the pleasure of the intelligent visitor in contrasting the 
works of nature and art as he pursues his devious way amid the 
triumphs of each. And, when considered from the standpoint 
as a whole, in connection with the fact that this production of 
Elysian splendor is but a recent creation in the transformation 
of the sand dunes of a barren waste into that of a perennial joy, 
the wonder is still more enhanced that the realities of the pos- 
sible have approximated so near to the miraculous. And here, 
again, the Pilgrim ejaculates the wish that he may again, under 
the smiles of a beneficent future be permitted to wander at large 
over these ever-blooming glades and flower-crowned hillocks. 
Though indulging this latent expectation, we, nevertheless, turn 
away with reluctance, even though it be under the consciousness 
that other scenes and experiences will soon make as great drafts 
upon our attention, and set in motion the further powers of ab- 
sorption. Taking, then, at our point of exit from the Park, the 
available trolley, happily discovered to be near, we decide our 
next objective point to be the Mechanics' Pavilion. 

The Mechanics' Pavilion, on account of its total floor space of 
some three and a half acres, consisting of a broad nave, aisles and 
side communicating rooms of considerable area, afforded ample 
accommodations for the headquarters of twenty-one Command- 
eries, with the necessary facilities for such entertainment, as 
each Commandery came prepared to extend a welcome free to 
all visiting Sir Knights and their Ladies, and which unitedly 
enabled them to contribute to the perpetuation of those ova- 
tions that by their frequent occurrence astonished even the na- 
tives; not only for the expedition, with which all were served, 



286 Tlu Pilgrimage of 



but also on account of the munificence displayed in providing 
for their entertainment. 

The display of plants, fruits and flowers that were the spe- 
cialties of the respective parts of the State of which the Com- 
manderies were all representatives, supplied an unprecedented ex- 
perience even to one walking over the spacious floors and viewing 
the decorations that, in one quarter, reminded one of a forest, 
and, in another, of a landscape garden in all their native loveli- 
ness, thus transforming the building into a vision of beauty 
redolent with the odor of fruit and freshly-cut redwood branches. 

We first note upon the main floor the Santa Ana Command- 
ery. At the entrance to its booth are four Ionic columns, bear- 
ing the Templar colors. In the interior, orange predominates. 
Orange-colored burlap is used for ceiling and walls, while sus- 
pended Maltese and Passion crosses, made of oranges, are 
conspicuous for their beauty. In the centre of the compart- 
ment, stands an arch, fifteen feet high, composed of corn, oil and 
wine, having a keystone in the centre — the whole made of 
oranges. At the rear of Santa Ana Commandery, and upon the 
opposite side of the aisle next Hayes street, the Stockton Com- 
mandery holds its headquarters. The decorations of this booth 
are of the Moorish Mosaic style. After passing through the 
vari-colored arches the characteristic feature within is an artistic 
reproduction of the home-city, in which sixty-three products 
of the San Joaquin Valley are exhibited, at the head of which 
valley Stockton stands. Watermelons form an attractive part 
of the exhibit, and are an agreeable surprise to the visitors from 
the East. 

Upon the Grove street side, that bounds the Pavilion upon the 
south, all the Northern California Commanderies are quartered. 
The decorations of the front, in connection with the background, 
are made to resemble an old castle wall, supported upon all sides 
by a series of colonades. Ivy vines run along the entire front 
of two hundred and sixty feet of the front face, and numerous 
electric lights peep out among the leaves, forming the letters 
"Xorthern California Battalion." The space occupied by each 
Commandery is specifically divided off from its neighbor. 



The San Francisco Club. 287 

The San Luis Obispo Commandery is upon the opposite side 
of the nave from the above-named Commanderies, and is con- 
spicuous for its monster pumpkin grown by a Mr, Hardie, who 
has charge of the same. The emblems of the Order are traced 
upon its rind. In addition, there is a fine display of the fruit 
and vegetables of that section of the State. 

The San Jose Commandery has assigned it a commodious 
space in the Art Gallery, upon the Grove street side of the 
Pavilion. It is decorated to represent a tropical garden — two 
carloads of potted plants, it is said, having been used to carry 
out the design. 

The rear end gallery is occupied by the five Commanderies of 
Ukiah, Napa, Vacaville, Santa Eose and Petoluma; and the 
same is decorated to represent a redwood forest, 'neath which 
shelter the principal products of that region of the State, rep- 
resented about which appear in appropriate designs the in- 
signia of the Order. The green boughs of the real forest reach 
out upon all sides, the tree-tops extending to the very ceiling, 
while here and there are seen, amid the thickets of the under- 
growth, wood nymphs, in marble, that revel with their god, Pan, 
in sylvan security. The specialty of Santa Eosa is a miniature 
redwood forest, in imitation of a grove upon the Eussian Eiver. 

Leaving this forest scene, the visitor is admitted to an equally 
picturesque Oriental scene in the capacious annex of the Pa- 
vilion, on the Hayes street side, that, in its area of 185 by 50 
feet, accommodates the Chinese tea garden of the California 
Commandery, where one quaff of the celestial beverage prepares 
the visitor to take in the flowery paradise embodied in the re- 
splendent alcoves that greet him upon every hand. 

Thus roved the Sir Knights and their Ladies, through the 
broad nave and aisles, gazing above and around to the very limit 
of intoxication of vision, or, obedient to the inviting legend of 
"Welcome," passed within the booths and partook of the luscious 
fruit dispensed impartially to all. May we not, therefore, hope 
that a like charity will condone the act, that we have dwelt 
so long upon the associations of the spot, as they flit across 



288 The Pilgrimage of 



the page of memory, and compel a partial resume, at least, of 
the common experiences of so many ? 

But now the closing hour has arrived, when all are expected 
to withdraw from the building, that due preparations may be 
made for the night's entertainments. We may, therefore, no 
longer tarry. 

The ever accommodating trolley is again appealed to, and, 
suffering no detention by the way, we are soon upon the thresh- 
hold of the Russ. 

Supper having been despatched according to the usual regime, 
we gather in the vestibule to confer with others of the Club in 
the determination of a program for the early evening, at least. 




0/ W W 
o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 2'^9 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

THE OPERA HOUSE. 

A good delegation having been finally improvised, we start for 
the Opera House, to witness the histrionic efforts of the Celestial 
Actors to render maediseval conceptions of the Chinese drama. 
It Avill be recalled that the standard Chinese play is historic and 
continuous for a period of from six months to a year; and, 
therefore, to have witnessed a specimen thereof under ordinary 
circumstances, even with the benefit of a translated program, 
would have made the plot, to us, disjointed, and, at best, but 
an interpolation — a fact that at best is alway unsatisfactory. 

Having secured eligible seats, we improve the time before the 
opening of the program by taking in the situation The audi- 
ence room, as revealed, was profusely decorated with cards of 
emblazoned Chinese characters, in designs particularly arranged 
for the occasion, with flags galore and fantastic lanterns thrown 
in. A troupe of some sixty professional actors and musicians, 
arrayed in their gorgeous and bizarre costumes, have been en- 
gaged, we learn, for these series of entertainments, continuing 
for five nights of the Conclave week — all of whom are acknowl- 
edged experts of histrionic art from a Chinese standpoint, who, 
in monologue, dialogue or chant, recount the deeds of the heroes 
impersonated; or, in pantomime, at least in part, picture the 
crucial points of some catastrophe, or striking episode. The 
principal actors, in their plain and brocaded silks, bespangled 
with tinsel and gold, presented to us an incongruous mass of 
brilliant reflections, that, no doubt, had their occult meaning 
to the initiated; while their gyrations, supposed to be keep- 
ing time to the crude minstrelsy of the times, though, if we are 
correctly informed, the Chinese music of to-day is not much of 
an improvement upon that in popular favor prior to the days of 
Confucius. 

The period of the plot that was rendered before us was of the 
dynasty of Yan Tsung, 1023-1046 A. D., and was an object 
19 



290 The Pilgrimage of 



lesson that carried the audience back to a civilization that other- 
wise, we might have been credulous concerning, had it not been 
so well authenticated before us. This specialty was presented 
by the Tan Quai Yuen Operatic Co. — the program being printed 
in the Chinese character, but, happily for the most of us (as 
we have been out of school for some time) the same was trans- 
lated upon the opposite page by Sir Knight J. Endicott Gar- 
dener, of the San Francisco Commandery, who has continued to 
keep himself bright in the hieroglyphic language. Therefore, 
we insert the same as a matter of reference, as well as a souvenir 
of the unique experience. The same is entitled 

"Comedy in Chinese History and Manners." 
Synopsis of Part I. 

"In the reign of Yan Tsung, a wealthy Chinese had two wives, 
a younger brother and a younger sister; tliough called brother 
and sister, they were, as a matter of fact, cousins. These were 
regarded as being too friendly to the gentleman, of wealth by 
the woman who was his first wife, and, in a fit of jealousy, this 
first wife spread a report detrimental to the good name of the 
cousins. The report was believed and the cousins fled to the 
mountains to seek the assistance of a bully, who, with the aid 
of a band of ruffians, made a descent upon the home of the 
multi-millionaire of China. This led to a war of the clans, 
which, in time involved the whole Empire, so as almost to cost 
the Emperor his throne. Finally virtue triumphed, and merit 
won reward." 

Intermission. 

Part II. 

"Tradition has it that in the Han dynasty, seven angels, who 
Avere sisters, descended from heaven in the form of human 
beings. In face and form they excelled all the maidens that 
had, up to that time, Ijeen regarded as the fairest to look upon. 
While all the sisters were eminently beautiful, the youngest of 
them outshone them all. Consequently, suitors for her hand 
soon vied in numl)cr with the stars in the heavens or the sands 



The San Francisco Club. 391 

upon the shores. Finally, after the '400' of China had failed 
to attain their object, a poor and comparatively obscure youth, 
who had nothing to offer but talent and a good name, came for- 
ward and won the beautiful prize." 

During the time of the above mentioned intermission a very 
interesting exhibition was given by forty Chinese school boys 
and girls, dressed in juvenile costumes, who sang in concert 
Chinese and American songs, and made figures in marching 
and countermarching, and ending in a pretty exhibit in calis- 
thenics. The exercises in the latter were by the boys of the 
Chinese public schools, who were under the charge of Prof. 
Miehling — the girls having been trained in song by Miss Grif- 
fith, of the same city. Among the representatives of both sexes 
there were noticeable some bright and apparently intelligent 
faces; and as we thought, also, a variation from the Mongolian 
type of the oblique almond eye to that of the Caucasian spherical. 

Although the dramatic entertainment was, in many respects, 
interesting and novel, yet, as the dramatized matter related to 
the life and traditions of a thousand years ago, nevertheless 
many would have liked to have seen something of the status 
of a civilization of to-day, interwoven into the dramatic exhibit. 
Hence, it was proposed that as the hour was not yet late, a dele- 
gation of the Knights should visit Chinatown, under the direc- 
tion of a guide to whom the streets, and most interesting locali- 
ties was known. 

CHINATOWN. 

That this was feasible on account of the location of the 
Chinese section is admitted, when it is recalled that Chinatown 
is not a suburban district, but that it is in the very heart of 
the city. It covers an area of about twelve blocks, in the very 
heart of the city, lying north of California and west of Kearny 
street. That part of the city is quite hilly, and even the main 
thoroughfares were narrower than those of the American sec- 
tions of the city. It was, indeed, a surprise to see how very 
narrow the alley passageways were, with the balconies of the 
second, third and even fourth stories projecting forward ; and 



293 The Pilgrimage of 



to such an extent that those upon the opposite sidewalks nearly 
met each other; and, hence, contributed to obstruct even the 
light of mid-day; and, therefore, much more that of the later 
hours. Necessarily, therefore, the odors from these dark, se- 
questered spots was not suggestive of the aroma of Araby the 
Blest, and, hence, the absence of exhilaration, as we traversed 
some of these connecting ways to other points more interesting. 
The blank saffron faces and unpicturesque garb (suggestive that 
the outer should be the inner) of the "unwashed," or, as he is 
usually denominated, "heathen Chinee," would never be de- 
clared, even by the color-blind, to be "a thing of beauty, or a 
joy forever." When seen, therefore, under the obscure light of 
their many-colored and grotesque lamps, they were suggestive 
of the inhabitants of another sphere, where the unlovable do 
congregate, and the powers of degeneracy have full sway. Hence, 
the thought was suggested that if the Caucasian be the superior 
or supreme type of humanity, from what centre would the Dar- 
winian evolve the Mongolian, that, to-day in his native habitat, 
is two-fold more numerous than the former, and the tendency 
to affiliation of the race are almost as foreign as in the case 
of the African type. Of their domestic life, we could, of course, 
learn nothing, except inferentially from our glimpses of their 
little shops, that here and there offer their wares to the average 
Chinaman, while surrounded by one or more of the inmates of 
the household. On taking an acknowledged step lower into the 
bounds where congregate the victims of vicious habit in the 
persons of the opium smokers, that we saw reclining in their 
bunks beside the grated windows, that look out into a dark 
alley-way, while steeping themselves in the fumes of the baleful 
drug, there were shown a depth of bondage to a worse than bes- 
tial habit, that offered, from a moral standpoint, no ray of 
hope that these victims will ever "evolve" to the condition of 
advance being as the "survival of the fittest" — an evolution 
which is the so-called scientific expression in its last analysis 
of the materialistic outcome of humanity in its development 
toward the highest type of manhood. Hence, the fallacy of an 
unintelligent progression toward this cliinax of "fittest," when its 



The San Francisco Club. 293 

opposite of degeneracy is shown to be a fact in the actual choice 
of these victims before us in becoming so degraded as they are 
proven by close observers to have descended to. 

If, however, an appeal for charity be made for these degraded 
ones upon the basis of their benighted religious conceptions, what 
defense can be offered, upon the other hand, for the equally de- 
graded victims of the alcoholic habit, whose perpetuation is our 
national stigma, even though these latter victims also claim a like 
immunity from condemnation upon the ground of a rightful 
transference of their responsibility to the promoters of an ac- 
cepted national policy. 

History, however, does record that the Emperor of China did 
protest against the degredation of his people by the importation 
into his country of opium, but the cannon of the reputed Chris- 
tian nation of England, the almost sole exporter of this drug, 
compelled the Emperor to revoke his decree, and thereby open 
again his ports to the importation of what he declared was de- 
stroying his people. 

It is lamentable that a like historic parallel cannot be quoted 
in favor of our national policy in the case of the aforesaid 
alcoholic habit that is a like stigma upon our boasted civiliza- 
tion. 

Dwelling upon these and other object lessons that our night's 
tour disclosed, that we further forbear to dilate upon, associa- 
tions were awakened, that, for the time being at least, would, 
no doubt, have been construed as pessimistic by some; and, 
therefore, we were influenced thereby to retrace our footsteps 
to our headquarters ere the round of our possible experiences was 
complete. 

Be that as it may, however, we could but realize from the 
situation, how nearly located to each other are the precincts of 
what we boast to be our highest evidences of Christian civiliza- 
tion and enlightenment, and the lowest concrete forms of vice 
and degeneracy. Our last reflection, therefore, was — That the 
twentieth century has its hands full to successfully reconcile the 
aforesaid anomaly. With this thought monopolizing our mind, 
so counter to those of the previous night's experience, we closed 
the recitals of the day. 



294 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 

THE CLIFF HOUSE. 

Thursday, September 8th, found the members of the Club 
early upon the scene to improve the opportunities of the last 
day in the land where the sun dispenses his most roseate smiles, 
that we might take in those points of interest in the city and 
environs as yet unvisited, at least, so far as the powers of human 
endurance and the means of transportation to and fro are avail- 
able. Hence, many of the Club who had not yet visited the 
Cliff House thought it best to improve the early part of the 
day there and in its vicinity. This place being easily accessible 
by different street-car routes at the very low price of a nickel, 
for a distance of seven miles — a price that would seem to be 
utterly inadequate, but for the fact that this locality is so 
popular that it is visited at all seasons by all classes of the city's 
population, as well as by tourists, we did not hesitate upon the 
order of our going. 

The view of the ocean and its beach, varied by its precipitous 
and level reaches, is marvelously impressive, as seen from the 
porticoes of the Cliff House, where one can sit at ease and sip 
his lemonade or soda water, and gaze at his leisure out upon 
the broad expanse of waters and the incoming breakers that 
dash upon the up-jutting rocks in the forefront, that vary in 
height from thirty to sixty feet, and are known as the Seal Rocks. 
They are so named, it will be recalled, because of the scores 
of seals that may be seen at all hours of the day, basking in 
the warm sun upon the shelving sides of the same, or climbing to 
its benches from the water's edge, or diving therefrom into the 
foaming waves. At first sight, from the appearance of their 
ungainly and clumsy forms, one is puzzled to understand how 
they can climb at all ; but, upon close observance of their move- 
ments, we see them swaying their bodies alternately from side 
to side, as they advance their opposite flipper to a higher point; 



The San Francisco Club. 295 

and then, by an opposite sway the opposite flipper is also ad- 
vanced in turn, and thus, by an apparent zigzag motion, a 
gradual advance is made until the seal has reached his desired 
height, either by crowding his companions into closer quarters, 
or by selecting an unoccupied spot for his unmolested siesta. 
We notice, also, in what familiar terms the sea gulls and other 
sea birds circle and hop around in close proximity, as if among 
old acquaintances. These rocks, being some one hundred yards 
or thereabouts from the shore, and no attempts at any time made 
to molest them, the seals seem to show no fear of any objects 
upon the beach; and, besides, their security from alarm or in- 
jury being the universal sentiment of an unwritten code, it would 
endanger the safety of any one that would dare raid upon the 
people's favorites. Besides, this species of seal being the com- 
mon hair seal, and not the fur variety, the inducement to kill 
or capture is not near so great as if they were of the valuable 
latter species. We did not learn whether the school is as numer- 
ous as at an earlier date, or otherwise. From the interest taken 
in witnessing their movements, they certainly are the drawing 
cards to this part of the coast. 

The flight of time, however, reminds us that we dare not pro- 
long our stay here, if we would give attention to other points. 
The Sutro Baths are in close touch to the Cliff House, and, 
therefore, we repair thither to appropriate as much as pos- 
sible of its attractions. These have the reputation of being the 
largest and best-equipped baths in the world. The pools are 
500 by 250 feet, and hold nearly 2,000,000 gallons. The main 
tank is 300 by 175 feet, the water being pumped thereinto from 
the sea, or flowing naturally therefrom at high tide. It is 
heated to such lower or higher degrees as may be required. 
While we saw a number of experts making their high dives 
and toboggan slides into the pools, we did not see any special 
competitions for prizes between star members of the Olympic 
Club, that gave exhibitions of their accomplishments at stated 
hours. A free duck or plunge was accorded to the visiting 
Knights upon the day of our visit, but our time was too limited 
to accept the same. The band concerts are also given in the 



296 The Pilgrimage of 



earlier and later portions of the day. We did take advantage, 
however, of the privilege of the building, and took a cursory 
view of the curios of the Sutro Museum, on the top floor of 
the Baths Building. Many sea-shells and curios of the ocean 
were to be seen, and would have sanctioned a minute examina- 
tion by any having leisure therefor. We were likewise obliged 
to forego the ascent to the Sutro Heights, which, we were in- 
formed, repay a visit to the beautiful park, which are really 
the grounds of the late Hon. Adolphus Sutro — his mansion 
being there located. He, like "Lucky Baldwin," laid the 
foundation of his wealth in connection with the Comstock Mines 
— the productiveness of which w^as greatly increased by his 
tunneling improvement in draining the same. The view of 
the beach from these grounds is said to be most extensive and 
magnificent. 

Eeturning by the way of the Cliff House, we descend by the 
roadway bordering the "Ocean Beach," so-called, or bathing 
shore of the multitude, and witness, for a while, the crowds 
buffeting the breakers in hilarious glee, while one or more are 
ever and anon overthrown and pay tribute to Old Neptune. 

The sun now has climbed to the zenith, and, exposed to the 
same, we wind around the beach to the trolley station, that takes 
a different route to the city, under a heat as sweltering as any 
of our July summer days. In this promenade by the sea, we 
traverse at least a half mile, and, in the language of the vicinity, 
we "perspire like porpoises." The "wait for the wagon" was 
but short, and passing over, in part, a most desolate tract of 
sand banks, sage bushes and sand burrs, and a skirting of scrub- 
pines — that was, no doubt, a counterpart of the original site 
of the Golden Gate Park — we at length reach the entrance to 
the latter. Some of the delegation drop out to take a last look 
at the Park, and others, including the writer, return to the city. 
The latter, from thence, take the route that, upon the return, 
borders Chinatown, as we were desirous of seeing again, at least, 
a part of the same by daylight. 

Stopping upon the environs of that quarter, we entered the 
annex of a Presbyterian Church and had the privilege of both 



The San Francisco Club. j>97 



seeing some of the Chinese girls that attend the Church School, 
and of hearing several recite selections in English at the re- 
quest of the preceptress, and of noting the neat appearance of 
the girls, as they stood in rank and filed out of the room at the 
close of the exercises. Returning our thanks to the lady-like 
preceptress for her courtesy granted to us, we take our de- 
parture. Euminating upon the facts that had just transpired, 
we were led to conclude that we had seen here demonstrated 
what we conceive to be the only successful method of engraft- 
ing upon the said native mind the principles of our civilization 
—an intensified duplication of what we had seen in this line the 
night before at the Opera House. That is, first principles are 
impressed upon, and retained by, the memory of the plastic 
mind of youth more readily when the imagination is enlisted to 
co-operate in the processes of permanent development. The 
average adult Chinaman appears to be so unimpressive, and 
so incapable of absorbing principles apart from the exercise of 
the merely mechanical imitative faculty, that it would seem 
to be an almost impossible task to explain to him what the as- 
similation of abstract truth is, and, hence, the necessity of early 
enlisting the co-operation of the imaginative faculty. Their 
bigotry, too, is so pronounced that many of them despise our 
most prized conceptions as absolutely inferior to their traditions, 
that they ascribe to be the product of myriads of years of the 
past, and, therefore, invincible. It is, however, a trite proverb 
—that "error is as old as the world," and, hence, mere age does 
not confer inviolability upon even the acknowledged most hoary 
institutions. 

Thus ruminating by the way, we leisurely direct our footsteps 
to Russ Hotel, and take our places among other arrivals in the 
dining-room. Dinner being duly despatched, a delegation of 
the Club decided to return to Chinatown, to inspect some of the 
wares of some of the celebrated bazaars. Entering that of 
Sing Pat & Co., we were soon really overwhelmed with the 
wonders and value of the immense assortment there exhibited 
in chinaware of every conceivable pattern of form and exquisite 
gilding— bronzes varying from statuettes to goblins, vases and 



298 The Pilgrimage of 



bowls, urns and tureens, varying from the colossal to those of 
the hric a hrac order, embossed and inlaid in the most life-like 
relief, or ornamented with the finest etchings of the engraver's 
tool. Jewelry, in bizarre designs and delicate finish. Lacquer- 
ware, embossed in gold and silver, with their strongest con- 
trasts and perfection of execution. Fancy articles galore, from 
pins to idols; fans, flags and lamps — all varying in price from 
the contents of the average pocket-book to the bank account 
of the multi-millionaire. The writer and his companion made 
some purchases, but others that followed still found an assort- 
ment left from which to select valuable souvenirs. Perceiving, 
however, from our first entrance into these exhibit-rooms, that 
we could not take the stock in trade away with us, we walk to 
and fro before the cases and upon the platforms of display, ab- 
sorbing as much as possible of what we would have to leave be- 
hind us, that we might thereafter dwell upon them, at least, with 
the orbs of memory, if we were not permitted to feast daily in 
reality upon them, as arranged within our own apartments 
subsequent to our return home. The general impression of the 
exhibit still remains, when we turn those orbs within, even 
though Sing Fat retains the originals. 

CHINESE FUNEEAL. 

Upon leaving Sing Fat's establishment, we are attracted by 
the passing of a Chinese funeral of the first class. The de- 
ceased was a member of the numerous family of Chang; and, 
according to custom, a life-size portrait of the deceased was car- 
ried and supported by the inmates of a carriage following the 
hearse, and was exhibited to the gaze of all upon the street. 
The hearse was a handsome one, though we would not suppose, 
from its similarity to the general style, that it was used ex- 
clusively for Chinese. The coffin was also first-class in finish, 
and was covered with flowers of appropriate designs. The third 
carriage in the procession contained a friend who threw out, at 
short intervals, small pieces of blank buff paper, that fell upon 
the street and sidewalk. We understood the significance of this 
to be, that if the deceased, after interment, desired to return 



The San Francisco Club. 299 

home, he could do so by following the trail made by these papers ; 
otherwise, he could not find it. Hence, we would conclude, 
from their standpoint, that the disembodied state is more helpless 
than that of the living subject. After this followed a long 
string of empty carriages, which, in turn, was followed by the 
mourners of the immediate family and friends on foot and 
dressed in white gowns, covering the entire person, with hoods 
of the same, covering the head, but leaving the face exposed. 
Upon each side of each chief mourner walked an attendant, 
supporting the arms of the same — the latter leaning forward 
and covering the face with the hands and seemingly overcome 
with grief. N"ext followed about a hundred young men, dressed 
in blue-belted gowns, and apparently fellow-members with the 
deceased of some order. These, again, were followed by friends 
and acquaintancs, dressed in their usual garb. We learned that 
when the bounds of Chinatown were reached that then the 
entire process would take the carriages, that the mourners might 
not be a gazing-stock for the 'Melican Man, as they passed 
through the 'j\Ielican City. The procession having passed, Ave 
pass down the street, in the opposite direction from that taken 
by the cortege, viewing the shops, restaurants and loiterers upon 
the sidewalks, who seemed to have about as much curiosity con- 
cerning us, as they concluded we must have of them, in walking- 
through their quarters upon no errands apparently of business. 
They all, however, looked alike, except that some were fat and 
others lean, some old and others young, but all following the 
same gait of movement, and nobody in a hurry. 

DIAMOND PALACE. 

Bidding adieu to Chinatown, we return to our headquarters, 
passing over other details that came under our notice, and re- 
fraining from what w^e would have been pleased to have spoken 
of further had we had more leisure at our disposal. Mean- 
while, we drop into the Diamond Palace, that is next door to 
the Euss Hotel, and take a rapid glance at its most valuable 
collection of precious stones and other valuable wares. We will 
admit, that had we known at an earlier date such a magnificent 



300 The Pilgrimage of 



emporium of jewelry was so near us, we would have exerted our- 
selves more strenuously to have visited the same at an early 
date. Being, however, closed at an early hour of each day and 
strongly guarded from that hour until the opening upon the 
following morning, it was not convenient to call at an earlier 
date. The collection is said to be among, if not the most valu- 
able, in the world. Since, however, Sir Knight Macklin has 
given a detailed description of the salon, we will not attempt 
to do so. We had the privilege, with a number of the Club, of 
becoming acquainted with Sir Knight A. Andrews, the pro- 
prietor, a man considerably advanced in years; and, by his own 
statement, he thought himself to be the oldest Mason upon the 
Pacific Coast, having been a member of the Order for fifty-seven 
years. I found him very interesting, and we conversed so long 
together that we had but little leisure to examine his collection 
with the scrutiny that would have enabled us to bear away with 
us a vivid recollection thereof. The arrangement and display 
of his goods not only proved that he was an expert lapidary, in 
his knowledge of the intrinsic value of his wares, but also a man 
of superlj taste, in knowing how to display them to the best 
advantage. Therefore, between the Mr. Andrews' fascinating 
address, and the brilliancy of his valuable collection, we were so 
pre-occupied that Ave could not come doA^m to such a practical 
frame of mind as to be able to make an investment and, there- 
fore, having exchanged cards, and responded appropriately to his 
invitation to call again, we withdrew, satisfied that we were still 
compos mentis. 

Being also in the neighborhood of the office of a friend and 
college-mate of our early life. Sir Knight W. F. M. Deal, the 
writer thought it well to call upon him and renew the ac- 
quaintance of forty years ago. Appreciating the call so much, 
he devoted the balance of the day to us. He first conducted us 
to the city's most elegant market. The display of meats, vege- 
tables and fruits in the abundance, variety and taste exhibited, 
reminded one more of a picture than of a real display, and asso- 
ciated with a cleanliness that would not have been an imsightly 
annex to a drawing-room. Among other fruits, our friend pre- 



The San Francisco Club. 301 

sented us with some specimens of seedless grapes, whose luscious- 
ness of flavor, even now by bare mention, make one's "mouth to 
water." 

THE PALACE OF ART. 

Leaving the same, our friend next took us to the most lux- 
urious saloon of the city — known as the Palace of Art. We 
found it to be a fair counterpart to those of Milwaukee, already 
referred to as visited by members of the Club. As the name 
suggests, nuisterpieces of the highest specimens of painting were 
exhibited upon the walls. The most beauteous forms of the 
human face and figure — the nude predominating — the most 
lovely landscape views and battle scenes of modern times and 
of places noted for their historic associations. We talked with 
the proprietor, and he was free to say that his place was open 
to all, without price, to gaze at T\all upon these choice produc- 
tions of his salon (so-called) ; and that nothing objectionable, 
he said, was here to be seen by the most fastidious. More- 
over, that his guests were not expected to patronize either his 
bar or menu, though, of course, he was shrewd enough to be 
aware that but few would wish to visit the place and thus place 
themselves under obligation Avithout discharging the same by 
patronizing the owner in some way. The majority of his ex- 
hibits were valued at thousands of dollars, and, had they been 
displayed elsewhere we would have been delighted to have spent 
hours in dwelling upon their beauties; but the realization that 
they were here exhibited simply as a drawing card to pander to 
the lower instincts, marred our pleasure; and, in departing, we 
reasoned how easy the passage from the elevating to the de- 
pressing, from the salons of the highest culture to the ante- 
chambers of vice. An artistic card, bearing a copy of one of 
the most attractive nudes was presented to our companion by 
the proprietor that we may not dwell upon. 

Leaving this point, our friend then accompanied us to the re- 
ception rooms of the DeWitt Clinton Commandery of Nevada, 
quartered at the California Hotel, of which he was a member, 
and he there introduced us to his friends and fraters. We were 



303 The Pilgrimage of 



agreeably entertained in social converse, and in the partaking of 
the accompaniments of fruit and those lighter liquid potations 
that are said to contribute to "the flow of soul" — ^the ban being 
placed upon the inebriating bowl — thereby showing that the 
hosts would not transcend the bounds of the most conservative. 

Meanwhile, other delegations of the Club, no doubt, partici- 
pated in like entertainments, that were open in all parts of the 
city every afternoon and night, and thus was afforded the op- 
portunity of imparting to the closing hours of the departing 
Knights that aroma of associations that is so pleasurable to recall 
in the days of the aftermath. 

In bidding a final farewell to our college friend and Templar 
frater, he asked the privilege of presenting to the companion 
of the writer a handsome portfolio of the leading views of the 
City of the Golden Gate, that is, under the circumstances, a very 
appropriate souvenir that we will ever prize as one of the me- 
mentoes of an event in life — the days of which must all be 
underscored as "red-letter days," and so engrossed upon the 
calendar. 

Returning to headquarters, we take our bearings and learn 
that there is still an hour or two at the disposal of the Club 
to improve as they will, and, hence, it was suggested to take an- 
other turn through some of the department stores and there, 
for a while, to linger-ie. To the writer and his companion, to 
suggest was but to decide ; and to go was to do more than merely 
survey. Desires being at length gratified, a final return to the 
TJuss Hotel closed our peregrinations, and we prepared for the 
closing chapter of the San Francisco diary. The last touches 
are made in packing our belongings; trunks are strapped, and 
the porter summoned for their removal from our rooms to the 
Reception-room floor, where, satchels in hand, we assemble, 
awaiting the call to our last meal. This being leisurely dis- 
posed of, we again assemble in the waiting ante-chamber, and 
there have our last tete a tcte, while the hotel mascot — the St. 
Bernard — ambles to and fro among us, aware of our kindly feel- 
ings toward him. The huge fellow, being the hero of some 325 
prizes, the proprietor of the hotel, and his owner, loves to nar- 



The San Francisco Cltib. 303 

rate his strong points, while Prince responds approvingly when 
his master asks a compliant bark. Thus, we while away the 
hour, until the announcement is made that those that desire 
can take the first boat for Oakland. The larger portion of the 
Club respond without further invitation, and we safely embark 
upon the ferry boat for the bay transit, and, after a twenty- 
minutes' ride, are prepared to greet once more the Special, that 
still has its attractions, and, therefore, is welcomed as our home 
for the return trip. The old quarters are repossessed, and sleep 
closes our eyes before the command of the conductor is given 
to "pull out" for the plains of jSTevada. 




o o o 



304 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XL. 

ROUNDING CAPE HORN. 

The morning of the 9th, owing to time lost upon the route 
during the night hours, found us, when we awoke to conscious- 
ness, near Colfax, and with but little opportunity afforded us 
to see the wild scener}^ revealed before we make the formidable 
climb of "rounding Cape Horn." This is much to be regretted, 
for the reason that otherwise we would have viewed the region 
surrounding the important station of Auburn, that claims a 
population of some 2,500. And, now that the altitude of the 
ascent is becoming quite perceptible — the rate per mile since 
leaving the previous station being 100 feet, and the altitude of 
the town 1,360 feet, it is readily understood why the place, with 
its other attractions, should have become a popular resort for the 
elite of Sacramento, and even of San Francisco during the 
summer months, as well as for tourists en route, either East or 
West. The town is well built and prosperous, having all the 
modern improvements of good hotels, excellent water, electric 
lighting and trolley plant. The surrounding orchards, vine- 
yards and vegetable farms show the attention given to fruit and 
soil culture, instead of the mining industry, that was the chief 
attraction in the earlier days, but now in the evident abandon- 
ment of the mine openings, as seen from the train beyond the 
city limits, shows that this source of activity has ceased to be 
profitable, and, therefore, has given place to the aforesaid, in- 
cluding the development of quarries of building stone, that find 
a market in other cities upon the line. 

COLFAX, 

as before mentioned, is another station passed, of about the same 
number of inhabitants as Auburn, and is also interested in fruit 
culture, but not so extensively as the afore-mentioned town. It 
has, however, from its location, an additional advantage in being 



The San Francisco Club. 305 



a promiiieut trading depot with the mining regions, that are still 
in operation in Nevada County, and is the railway junction 
of the narrow-gauge road running to said county, and so named, 
and, therefore, connected with Grass Valley, Nevada City and 
the intervening agricultural belt. 

Lpon leaving Colfax, the scenery becomes wilder, the evi- 
dences of civilization but rare, and the grade heavier. But, in- 
stead, the triumphs over Nature of the engineer's art, come to 
the front, as shown in the approach to, and final doubling of, the 
so-called "Cape Horn." The first object that attracts the eye 
as we approach the most formidable crest of the mountain is a 
bold out-jutting precipice in the upper heights, that shows about 
its face the line of the railway that we are to pass over later, 
in doubling the same. Noting, also, the grade, it is seen that the 
increase of altitude from Colfax to Duth Gap, beyond us, a 
distance of fourteen miles, is 1,175 feet, although the grade at 
this particular point of the road, owing to the difficulties to be 
overcome, may be greater. The road-bed, lying upon a shelf 
cut into the face of the rock, proceeds uninterruptedly until the 
embankment of Eice ravine is reached, which is crossed at a 
height of at least 100 feet from its bottom by a trestle bridge 
of some 875 feet in length; and. from the forward end thereof, 
we may say the climb is commenced in earnest. And yet, in 
looking away to the right, a beautiful valley is disclosed," along 
the opposite side of which the line of the road is seen, over which 
we have but a short time before passed. But the detour is now 
commenced that is to be consummated in the doubling of "Cape 
Horn." And as the course is pursued, the wonder is excited 
how a road-bed was ever here made at all, as at the centre of 
the curve the vertical height from the base below is 2,500 feet. 
The method pursued was the same, we learned, as that adopted 
in securing the road-bed through the Eoyal Gorge, which, noth- 
ing happening to prevent, we shall pass over upon our further 
progress East. The method, though apparently incredible at 
first mention, was, upon survey being made, to first ascend to 
the summit of the precipice assailed, and then by the use of 
proper appliances of rope and tackle, to lower the workman from 
20 



306 The Pilgrimage of 



the said summit to the point selected over which the track was 
to be laid; and there being safely anchored, the drilling of the 
face of the precipice was consummated for the purpose of blast- 
ing inward, until, inch by incb, an initial shelf was wrought, 
upon which a foothold was at length gained to the end that 
the workman may transfer himself from the rope's end to a 
solid basis. Thus, by repeated blastings, the rocky surface 
was torn away and an entrance made into the face of the prec- 
ipice to the depth equal to the desired breadth of the road-bed. 
Thereupon blasting forward and backward, the continuous 
slielf is ultimately completed, and the desired incline of the 
road-bed established, as now seen and traversed. Looking down- 
ward, the American river is seen, like a silver thread, to wind 
its tumultuous way through the gorges, 2,000 feet below, to its 
final loss of identity in the bosom of the Sacramento. Slowly, 
but confidently, the curve is rounded, and we hear no protests 
of danger, as when the descent of the Kicking Horse was being 
made, even though the present course is more frightful. Ere 
long, however, we reach the summit of the pass and move on- 
ward with accelerated speed. . 

SHADY EUN. 

The next view of the canon is at the point known as Shady 
Run, that flows farther distant from the road-bed, toward the 
right, where the opposing cliffs, between which the river forces 
its way, boldly expose their faces to the height of 2,000 feet 
above the river bed, safe in their security that now, since a more 
direct course has been taken, the railway engineer will not assail 
their fronts, and they may, therefore, defy even Sir Knight 
Rudy, of the Club, to adorn their escutcheons with his nimble 
brush, or dictate their epitaphs for memorial windows. Still 
advancing, but at a gentler grade, the region continues to be 
wild, the declivities of the mountain ridge to be still covered 
with a thick forest growth, some of the original monarchs of 
the primeval forest still stand, as if to rebuke the intruder that 
would disturb their solitudes; while, as we look down upon the 
incline of the tree-tops at our left, the maze thickens, until 



The San Francisco Club. 307 

impenetrable to the eye in the valley bordering the lower depths. 
Ever and anon a lone telegraph station is passed, that yields 
some sign of civilization, and that the isolation is not absolute. 

OEEL. 

One of these, Orel by name, upon the right, is noted, with 
its siding upon the left, to meet the emergency of a possible be- 
lated train. Not supposing that either it or its lone surround- 
ings might ever further claim our attention, we pass on without 
a thought that we should ever see the locality again. Continuing 
our course, therefore, onward for about a mile and a half, our 
Special passes, in part, through a tunnel — our two locomotives 
and the next three cars attached thereto, having passed out of 
the east end terminus thereof, when, suddenly, a number of 
shrill whistles from our engines and an abrupt stoppage of the 
train brought all of the occupants of the same to their feet. 

Those of us that occupy the said three cars rush immediately 
to points of outlook, and, having this advantage, can see ahead, 
but those of the rearward cars enclosed in the darkness of the 
tunnel have no such opportunity, and, therefore, cannot imagine 
the cause of the alarm and, therefore, imagine every species of 
catastrophe except the proper one. The Special being, how- 
ever, at a standstill, the members of the Club swarm from their 
quarters like bees from their hive, either alighting upon the 
rough ballast of the side-way, in the gloom of the tunnel, or 
hurriedly passing through the cars in their front, join the rest, 
that have already dismounted upon the discovery of flames of 
fire that now begin to reach heavenward. These are soon seen 
to have their source in a burning snow-shed just ahead, that 
had even been entered by the first locomotive before the impetus 
of the train could be checked, and backed to a point of safety, 
that we now occupy, rather than incur the risk of rushing 
forward into possibly greater danger than the entrance to the 
shed disclosed. In reward for this prudence upon the part of 
the responsible engineer a purse of $50.00 was presented to 
him by the Club, with expressions of gratitude that no further 



308 The Pilgrimage of 



mishap had befallen us other than possibly a vexatious delay, 
whose termination could not yet be confidently discovered. 

The graphic pen of Sir Knight Macklin has related the sequel 
of the incident, and, therefore, we beg leave to quote him in this 
connection. "Here we are, about thirty miles from the summit 
of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, and 5,000 feet above the sea 
level, \rith a fiery furnace just ahead and the train at a standstill. 
A snow-shed, all ablaze with fire, and the underbrush on the 
slopes above, as well as the telegraph poles, and that, too, amid 
the solitude of the mountains, 165 miles east of San Francisco 
and -to miles from anywhere. We run back two miles to a tele- 
graph station, and are now informed that many miles of sheds 
on the higher elevations are burning and that there is no hope 
of getting away before to-morrow (Saturday) morning, if then. 
We are certainly up against the real thing, for the first time 
since we began our journey; but, fortunately, we are near a 
mountain stream and are sure of water for frequent ablutions, 
etc. The situation might be worse, and we have learned that in 
whatsoever state we are therewith to be content." 

THE ENFOECED EEST. 

Fortunately, the said siding at Orel was so near, upon which 
Ave are shunted, that we may here safely await events; par- 
ticularly in regard to what may come from our rear. Mean- 
while, as there will yet be an hour or more until lunch is called, 
delegations from the Club are improvised to walk from this, 
our temporary home, to the blazing shed, that we may see the 
results there disclosed of the conflagration. Being now pretty 
well rested from the walks of our last day in "Frisco," even 
the Ladies risked the trip to a large extent — ^the trench by the 
side of the railway being dry at this season of the year, and, 
hence, readily converted into good sidewalks. As we journeyed 
along, the prevailing animus of all was that of gratitude that the 
delay, thus far at least, had not been attended with serious results 
to life and limb, and, therefore, we felt content to await the 
sequel. The passage through the tunnel being slightly curved and 
long, was somewhat tedious ; and yet at no time were we beyond 



The San Francisco Club. 309 



the dim light of either the one or of the other end of the same. 
Finally, emerging therefrom, we were immediately confronted with 
the destruction wrought in a brief space of time by the devouring 
element. The huge timber supports of the roof, though prone, 
were still ablaze, and the heat generated was so intense that 
the rails were warped into S'S, the cross-ties still smouldering, 
and the stones of the ballast almost of a red-heat. The serious- 
ness of the delay again is impressed upon us as we view the facts 
before us, and our train is upon the wrong side of the holocaust. 
And, now, as we look off to the right, across the deep interven- 
ing valley we see the dense clouds of smoke rolling up therefrom, 
showing that the fire is really spreading thitherward, and that 
it will, no doubt, cross the same and attack also other sheds 
located upon that side of the opposite mountain, through which 
we would have safely passed had our train been on time. To 
reach the flanks of the said mountain, the road beyond Blue 
Canon makes a broad detour, and at its terminus ascends in 
almost an opposite direction from our present course in its con- 
tinuous upward grade to reach the summit. The events of the 
later hours of the day proved that our fears were realized in 
the fact that five sheds did succumb to the flames. At the time 
of making these observations we noted that a large flume, of 
about 3x4 feet, that was located some fifty feet below the road- 
bed of the first burning shed, and conducted quite a large body 
of water to some of the placer mines in the lower valley, was 
yet undamaged; but we have no doubt that, later, its wooden 
walls will be eaten through, and the valuable supply to some 
distant point cut off. This is a danger incurred, more or less, 
in the irrigated districts, as the fount of supply is in the moun- 
tain regions, that are often exposed to forest fires. 

Having now been impressed more fully with our helplessness, 
and yet hoping that the track forces of the corporation would be 
equal to the emergency, we returned to the Special, content, be- 
cause compelled to await the logic of events. 

Moreover, the walk was conducive to the production of a 
sharpened appetite, and, hence, in due time, after our return, 
the "call to lunch" was duly honored, and, between courses, we 



310 The Pilgrimage of 



naturally discussed what had not been entered among the side 
issues of the itinerary, and what might be predicated of the 
outlook. Lunch over, the Ladies gathered in their respective 
sections and in the observation car, to while away the time as 
best they might, or, in the forgetfulness of a siesta, divert 
thouglit from the situation. The majority of the Sir Knights 
stood about the station, either indulging in the fragrant "two- 
fer," or philosophizing upon the mutability of the "best-laid 
plans of mice and men," as is their wont, in cases of emergency ; 
and, after affirming what the great railway corporations of the 
East would do under like circumstances, it was finally declared 
to be the consensus of the crowd that hind-sight was much more 
reliable than foresight in cases parallel to the one monopolizing 
the present. Therefore, to expedite matters, a volunteer corps 
of observation was improvised to walk again to the vicinity of 
the burnt shed to study the situation and thus be in a position 
to offer advice — well, to those that were left behind. Hence, 
under the command of the redoubtable Sir Knight Beitler, we 
noted the following candidates for fame in the persons of Sirs 
Kudy, Gorgas, Manning, Wagner, Weidner, Denlinger et aJ., all 
of whom, it was presumed, knew the difference between a switch 
and a frog, and, mayhap, of a guard rail brace and a fish-plate. 

But ere we could start under the martial notes of the "Dead 
March," the whistle of an approaching train from the West 
greeted our ears, and, thereupon, as swift as the wings of the 
wind, a wrecking train passed, laden with new rails, ties and a 
large force of tracklayers, equipped to repair damages. Our 
hopes brighten ; the corps of observation disbands, our antici- 
pated laurels as advisers fade in the "bornin," and Rudy lights 
another penny cigar, and "go as you please" again becomes the 
order of the day. 



The San Francisco Club. 311 



CHAPTER XLI. 

THE JOUENEY EESUMED. 

Again, we appeal to the annals of Sir Knight Macklin : 
Saturday. "After a delay of 18 hours on account of the fire, 
that destroyed five snow-sheds ahead of the train, we got away 
at 4 A. M. A large force of railroad men worked all night, 
clearing away the burnt timbers, laying track and fighting the 
fire in the bush. At 6 o'clock, the writer was on the rear plat- 
form, viewing the effects of the fire. On both sides of the track 
were charred and burning sticks, trees and bushes on fire; and 
a small army of fire-fighters and tracklayers, with red eyes and 
blackened faces, whose all-night work amid heat and smoke 
made a way for us out of the woods. Literally, we passed 
'through the fires and the Lord was with us.' This is railroad- 
ing in barns, with only a flash of daylight here and there be- 
tween the snow-sheds for thirty miles of a continuous stretch, 
and we are almost choked with smoke, and our clothes smell 
like the proverbial piece of smoked sausage. At times, we could 
not distinguish one another in the cars. We have this satis- 
faction, however, that we lead the procession of statesmen, 
mayors and the lords of England — but never follow. Behind 
our train is Secretary Shaw and the Earl of Eustice, on two 
other sections. The latter asked to have his private car at- 
tached to our train, and our committee consented, but he didn't 
catch up in time to hook on. He is an Earl, but was not 'Early' 
enough to catch us." 

After passing through the burnt district, the writer, on ac- 
count of having arisen at the hour of the start, lay down again 
in his berth, intending, later, to arise, that he might see what 
the Summit might disclose in our passage thereover. For- 
tunately, having awakened just as the transit was being made, 
at an altitude of 7,018 feet above the sea — the sun now having 
arisen, and gilding the mountain tops in earnest, we were af- 



312 TTie Pilgrimage of 



forded the extreme pleasure of witnessing one of the most rare 
views that these upper heights ever afford. Looking from our 
window, upon a vast field, stretching away far to our left, to the 
very bounds of the distant horizon, we beheld what appeared to 
be a deposit of snow so immense in area and depth of content 
as to fill, in a measure, the vales and mountain gorges, and thus 
present a billowy surface like unto petrified sea-foam, all glis- 
tening in an intensified sunlight that can only be appreciated 
in full at these lofty elevations. And yet, here and there, was 
seen to jut upward a mountain peak, whose bare and sombre 
summit contrasted sharply with the virgin whiteness of the 
snowy mantle that clothed its flanks — a circumstance that led 
us to wonder that they, too, were not snow-capped, as had been 
the case in our former experiences. The brilliancy of the view 
and the transparency of the atmosphere were each, in their 
sphere, so perfect that we awakened our companion to share in 
its magnificence ; and, upon asking her if the view was not grand 
above measure, she agreed with us to the full. And, as we con- 
tinued in rapture to gaze thereupon, the query was suggested 
as to why it was that we had been so unprepared, at the "nick 
of time," to view, from an upper height, such an immense 
low-lying field — all our previous mountain views having been 
either from below, or, at best, upon the same plane with the 
snowy deposits. And thus, for some fifteen or twenty minutes, 
we luxuriated in the sight — when, all of a sudden, the scene was 
cut off, and we found ourselves involved in our descent from the 
heights in a fog so dense that the eye could not penetrate it to 
the distance of a car-length. 

Then it was that the truth dawned upon us, that we had 
simply been borne along above the clouds, and that the supposed 
snow-hummocks and intervening vales were only the sharply- 
defined reflecting surfaces of the condensed vapor of the lower- 
lying members, under the transfiguring radiance of the over- 
hanging sun, that transformed the same into the illusion of a 
mantle of snow. And yet the same seemed as perfect in its out- 
lines and content as the real covering of the Rockies of the 
higher latitudes. 



The tian Francisco Club. 313 



We continued to be thus enwrapped in the cloudy envelope 
for some fifteen minutes longer, and upon passing out from its 
lower limits and not enclosed in the obscurity of the snow-sheds, 
we were aggravated ever and anon by the beauties of the lower 
landscape ; and, hence, we were thus constantly made aware that 
we were losing many of the attractions of the lake region, 
through which we were now passing. 

THE LAKE EEGION. 

The chief lakes of this section are Tahoe, Webber, Indepen- 
dence and Donner — bodies of water in the very heart of the 
Sierras ; and, hence, at an elevation that cannot be paralleled in 
altitude by as large areas and within such easy reach of each 
other. Tahoe is represented as 6,280 feet above the sea, in size 
is 23 by 13 miles, and is 1,800 feet deep. Webber is at a still 
greater altitude, viz, 6,925 feet, though its depth is but 80 feet. 
The altitudes of the last two above-mentioned are about the 
same, or but little less than Tahoe. They all have specific at- 
tractions for the artist and the tourist, as worthy of reproduc- 
tion by the former upon the canvas ; and as receiving the highest 
commendations of the latter, as places of resort that compare 
favorably in kind with any within the limits of the States. The 
only one that can be seen with any advantage as we pass is that 
of Donner. 

The writer recalls with much pleasure the number of visits 
he paid to the never-to-be-forgotten painting of Bierstadt that 
was exhibited in the Art Building of the Centennial Exposition 
at Philadelphia, and his ardent wish then felt that some day 
he might be permitted to see the original. And, hence, our 
great gratification to know that we pass the same by daylight. 
This lake is about three miles long and about one-half the same 
in width, and is said to be 250 feet deep. It runs east and 
west, and is paralleled a great part of its length by the railway — 
the latter sweeping around its eastern end by a broad curve, 
and, therefore, a number of good views of it were obtained. 
The great purity of the waters of these lakes is seen in the 
fact that one can see to the immense depth of from seventy-five 



314 The Pilgrimage of 



or one hundred feet beneath their surfaces, and see the fish swim- 
ming about at such low levels. They all abound in trout, and, 
hence, are well considered to be a paradise for the angler. 
While thus dwelling upon associations so fruitful, we felt much 
inclined to resolve that should we ever pass this way again we 
shall endeavor to stop over long enough to visit each of the 
aforesaid ; and thus, in turn, absorb to the full some of the in- 
spiration that has made this locality so attractive to the highest 
order of appreciative taste. 

TEUCKEE. 

The three miles that still intervene between Donner Lake and 
Truckee is soon traversed ; and there, arriving at about 7 :30, the 
Special makes a brief halt for about thirty minutes, to replenish 
our almost empty tanks, secure an abundant supply of ice, for 
which this station is noted, and thus take a last look at California 
civilization — this being the last town upon the railway before 
crossing the line into the State of Nevada. 

By observations made from the station, we conclude that the 
town is a place of considerable business activity, having a popu- 
lation of some 1,500, that are mainly sustained by the ice and 
lumber business — this point being the centre of an extensive 
lumber region. Meanwhile, the apple-boy is patronized, and 
the surrounding residences of the people become objects of notice. 
An octangular house, perched upon the top of a huge boulder in 
the yard of a private residence upon the opposite side of the 
station area, claimed particular attention. We learned that the 
same was built by the person residing in the adjoining house, 
for the purpose of being used as a conservatory — the top of the 
boulder being flat and some ten feet from the ground. It was 
finished in style similar to the house adjoining, and supplied 
with a window upon each plane of the outer surface, and cov- 
ered with a flat roof. It is connected with the house by a 
covered way of the same height, or upon the same plane as the 
top of the boulder. The odd structure excited considerable 
comment by the Club, and, no doubt, generally — a fact that 
may be a source of satisfaction to the owner. None of our 



The San Francisco Club. 315 

members, however, passed over to examine the same more mi- 
nutely, so far as we know. 

The town stands upon the north side of the river of the same 
name, that is the outlet of the afore-mentioned lakes. We now 
make its first acquaintance, as we learn that our course will 
follow its tortuous channel for some hours. The signal, "all 
aboard," though now becoming monotonously familiar, is once 
more obeyed, and we are again in motion with our next objec- 
tive apparently in reach, without further delay. 

TEUCKEE EIVEE. 

After our departure from the town of Truckee, we approach 
more nearly the banks of the river, that is here about fifty feet 
wide, and is seen to tumble, in a wild tumult of frequent cas- 
cades, over its ledge-covered bottom, as it hastens away upon its 
downward journey, upon a descent of more than 1,700 feet in 
a distance of seventy miles. This fact, taken in connection with 
its frequent and abrupt change of course, enlivens the outlook, 
and prepares us somewhat against the monotonous surroundings 
that will engage the vision upon the plains. And, as we pass, 
evidences of the activities of the region are seen upon its banks, 
in the storage of logs and sawed lumber that alternate with the 
numerous ice-houses located upon the lake-like expansions of 
the stream that ever and anon reveal the fact, that these are 
staple evidences of an industry that is in a flourishing state. 
We pass frequently from one side of the river to another, as we 
follow the trend of the canon, with its constantly changing 
features of cliff and imbedded boulders in the foreground, and 
overtopped by the evergreen-capped heights beyond, 

THE STATE OF NEVADA. 

At the modest station of Bronco, we pass across the line of Cali- 
fornia into Nevada, whose very name, from the date that the 
golden visions of wealth reputed to lie beneath her soil, have 
led to the immigration of thousands thitherward to the present 
time, has tended to render some of the localities almost house- 
hold words to many of us, and, therefore, whetted the desire to 



316 The Pilgrimage of 



come into closer contact with them than has been afforded us 
through the medium of other tourists, or of the written page. 
The stations of Boca, Floriston and Verdi differ but little in 
their surroundings fi'om the other lumber stations passed ; and, 
hence, engaged our attention only for the time being. Had 
circumstances admitted, we would have liked to have stopped 
off long enough to take a side run to Virginia and Carson Cities, 
that, in the earlier days of the mining fever, were the centres 
of an almost fabulous gold production, that aggregated many 
millions, to the enormous enrichment, in some cases, of the 
original prospectors and the corporations that were exploited 
by them, eventuating of late in a successful expansion of what 
would have been impossible under the cruder methods of the 
placer period. This production became, at length, so large, that 
the United States Government established a mint at Carson 
City to handle the crude metal direct, and thus avoid the ex- 
pense of transportation elsewhere. These facts also gave an 
impetus to permanent improvements in both cities, and at Car- 
son, the capital of the State, these became quite imposing. 
These places are reached most readily from Eeno, at which place 
we arrived in about an hour and a quarter from Truckee. 

RENO. 

This station is a very important one on account of its rail- 
way connections in all directions to its extensive patronizing 
districts, that have made the place, with a population of 4,500, 
a centre of large business activities, as well as one of metro- 
politan and educational importance. The State University is 
here located, and is said to be a very imposing group of buildings. 
It is from this point that connections are made to the Comstock 
mines, to which reference has already been made in other rela- 
tions. 

And, now that we are so near to the Comstock lode, and since 
the fame of Nevada became so world-wide on account of the 
wonderful richness of this deposit, it will, no doubt, be allowed 
to refresh our memories by reverting somewhat again to its pro- 
ductiveness by a statement of facts, in addition to what was 



The San Francisco Club. 317 

before said in connection with "Lucky Baldwin's" exploitation 
of the same. While some may consider this data to be ancient 
history, yet, as these facts were the chief factors in bringing 
Nevada into such prominence before the world, it seems in place 
to call attention, at least briefly, to what would be suggested 
more or less dimly to the most of us in passing. 

In a report of the Mechanics' Institute, of San Francisco, the 
combined product of the Comstock lode for the five years ending 
with 1866, was, in round numbers, $63,000,000. The dividends 
of ten mines of this lode for the second quarter of 1867 was 
$1,178,200. It was also estimated that the loss from the tail- 
ings of the lode in the Carson Eiver during its productive period 
was $40,000,000. Also, that the production of the County of 
Shorey, in which the lode is located, for the year 1866, was 
$14,167,071, which, converted into United States currency at 
that time, was equal in value to $18,073,000. That of the 
same for the first six months of 1867 was $10,115,000. The 
total production of nine mines of the State from their opening, 
to March, 1882, was $133,321,050. 

Therefore, it may readily be seen by a reviewal of these figures 
why it was desirable to visit these centres of fabulous wealth 
with expectation that values might be found "lying around 
loose," waiting to be appropriated, and, therefore, so available 
that once upon the ground one might fill his pockets at will. 
At least we recall a stanza of a song that, as a boy, we learned 
just after the discovery of gold in California in '49, that runs as 
follows : 

"Come along ; come along, make no delay. 
Come from every nation, come from every wave. 
For our land is broad enough, don't be alarmed, 
For Uncle Sam is rich enough to give us all a farm." 

The last line of the second stanza affirms that upon our arrival 
upon the promised soil 

"We'd dig up lumps as big as brick^' 
of the precious metals. 



318 The Pilgrimage of 



It is, therefore, readily seen how difficult a matter it was to 
restrain Sir Knight Rudy from going thither instanter, with- 
out waiting even so long as to light his "2-fer." But the train 
was now in motion, and he was prevailed upon to become calm, 
until we could make our next stop. Meanwhile, falling back 
upon another "3-fer," he became, in time, somewhat more com- 
posed. 

In our transit thus far it has been quite perceptible that the 
downward grade has been continuous, being something over 
1,300 feet since leaving Truckee, thirtj'-five miles to our rear. 
About the same distance forward, after a further descent of 
400 feet, we reach Wadsworth — a town of about the same size 
as Truckee, of which latter we have been kept reminded by its 
river, to which we have clung quite closely for the past two or 
more hours. The pretty little park at the station, and the neat 
little cottages across the area, at the rear of the same, attract 
our attention, as we exercise by a promenade along the platform 
tliat borders the length of the said verdant strip. Evidences 
of irrigation are manifest in the fresh condition of the same. 
The railway shops of the division being located here — a change 
of locomotives and crews give us the little aforesaid muscular 
respite that we have enjoyed. 




0/ W \i/ 
o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 319 



CHAPTER XLII. 

A DIGEESSION. 

Before, however, resuming our narration in relation to points 
further east, it may be allowed to comment further upon the 
course of the Truckee Eiver, to which, at this point, we must 
bid farewell. After leaving Wadsworth, the river swerves almost 
due north — the general course of the railway being northeast. 
Our reason for this digression at this juncture is the fact that 
the Truckee empties into Pyramid Lake, at a point about twenty 
miles north of this place, and thus becomes specifically con- 
nected with a very interesting piece of history, identified with 
the original exploration of this region by the first white man 
that ever crossed these plains. Hence, with the mention of 
Pyramid Lake, a precious flood of memories rush upon us in 
connection with the discovery of the same by Capt. Jno. C. 
Fremont, in charge of the United States Exploring Expedition 
that was authorized by Act of Congress, and extended its func- 
tions over the years of 1842 and 1844, inclusive. The country 
explored in this region extended from the South Pass of the 
Eockies, westward over the Sierra Nevada to North California. 
His route, therefore, led him, after crossing the northern part 
of the Nevada Basin, toward the Sierras into the neighbor- 
hood of this lake, which he discovered on January 10, 1844. 
Of the details of this expedition we read with much interest in 
our boyhood days, and can recall with what pleasure we enter- 
tained the thought of being permitted some day to see something 
of this region, even though it might appear to be never so deso- 
late — he having invested it with so many attractions; and, at 
length successfully accomplished the arduous task committed to 
him. Among his party was the famous guide and scout. Kit 
Carson, after whom the city, near which we have just passed, 
was named. 

THE NAEBATION. 

To quote, briefly, from Captain Fremont's diary of the said 



320 The Pilgrimage of 



and following date, we note him as saying: "In continuing the 
reconnaissance of the basin, along the mountain ridge, we found 
a hollow leading up from the basin into the mountain, which 
we followed, intending to see what lay beyond the mountain. 
The hollow was several miles long, forming a good pass, the 
snow deepening to about a foot as we neared the summit. Be- 
yond, a defile between the mountains descended rapidly about 
2,000 feet; and, filling up all the lower space, was a sheet of 
green water, some twenty miles broad. It broke upon our eyes 
like the ocean. The neighboring peaks rose high above us, and 
we ascended one of them to get a better view. The waves were 
curling in the breeze, and their dark green color showed it to 
be a body of deep water. For a long time, we sat enjoying the 
view, for we had become fatigued with the mountains, and the 
free expanse of moving waves was very grateful. It was set 
like a gem in the mountains, which, from our position, seemed to 
enclose it almost entirely. At its western end, it communicated 
with the line of basins we had left a few days since: and, upon 
the side opposite to us, it swept a ridge of snowy mountains, 
the foot of the great Sierra. From its rugged mountain sur- 
roundings, we concluded it to be some unknown body of water, 
which it afterward proved to be. On the following day we en- 
camped within a mile of the margin of the lake. We found the 
water slightly salt, though pleasant to drink, when no other 
could be had. The shore was rocky — a handsome beach, which 
reminded us of the sea. Where we halted appeared to be a 
favorite camping place for the Indians." 

After relating the experiences upon the shore of the lake, 
noting the botanical and mineralogical character of the environs, 
the flocks of wild sheep upon the steeps, the ducks upon the 
waves, the fish sporting below and the snow-storm that bore down 
upon them, the Captain resumed his narrative as follows : 

January 14. "The snow rapidly melted under a warm sun; 
and, making but nine miles of an advance during the day, we 
encamped upon the shore, opposite a very remarkable rock in 
the lake, which had attracted our attention for many miles. It 
rose, according to our estimate, 600 feet above the water; and, 



The San Francisco Club. 321 

from the point we viewed it, presented a pretty exact outline of 
the great Pyramid of Cheops. Like other rocks along the shore, 
it seemed to be incrusted with calcareous cement. This striking 
feature suggested the name for the lake, and I called it Pyra- 
mid Lake." 

Learning from an Indian, that Fremont persuaded to come 
into camp, that there was a river at the lower end of the lake, 
and, later, upon arriving there, that it flowed into the lake and 
not out, he became satisfied that both river and lake had, before, 
been unknown to the white man. Learning, later, also, from 
another Indian, that the river issued from the mountains and 
had its source from a lake some three to four days' journey from 
the base, we have here confirmed the earliest reference to the 
Truckee. The further course of Fremont over the range, upon 
a route at a greater or less distance from the bed of what is evi- 
dently the same river, furnishes a feast of interest that is, to-day, 
by no means tame. Moreover, his original conception of con- 
necting the headwaters of the Missouri with the Pacific coast by 
rail — thus to combine railway and steamboat navigation, was a 
long step toward the realization of what w^e enjoy to-day. 

But the Special moves onward and has provided no margin 
of time for these side issues, and, therefore, we must curb our 
propensity to run off at a tangent. 

The next station, known as Hot Springs, upon our route, is 
some thirty miles from Wadsworth, and lies upon the southern 
side of the railway. We thought, at first suggestion, that these 
might be the springs that were discovered by Fremont some 
four days before he discovered Pyramid Lake, but, upon refer- 
ring to his Diary, we see that he locates the Hot Springs of 
liis discovery at a latitude of 40° 39" 46' — it being recalled that 
the latitude of the southern terminus of Pyramid Lake was 
exactly that of 40° ; and that the altitude of said lake is 4,890 
feet, or 700 feet higher than the Great Salt Lake, whereas that 
of the Hot Springs, upon the railway, is 4,074 feet, and the 
latitude of the same 39° 55", and lying to the southeast of 
Pyramid Lake — Fremont's Springs being to the northeast. In 
■speaking of his discovery, Fremont says that the basin of the 
31 



323 The Pilgrimage of 



larffest one has a circumference of several hundred feet; and 
there is at one extremity a circular space of about fifteen feet 
in diameter, entirelj' occupied by boiling water. It boils up 
at irregular intervals and with much noise. The water is clear 
and the spring deep. It was surrounded, on the margin, with a 
border of green grass, and near the shore the temperature was 
306°." It was, therefore, evident that the springs we pa'ss are 
not those discovered by Fremont. This much, however, is evi- 
dent: that we are in the same volcanic region as that traversed 
by him, whose subterranean fires are not far below the surface 
over which we now hasten. 

The proximity of the aforesaid lake and others within a radius 
of fifty miles from the point that we now occupy have named 
this the Lake Eegion. Winnemucca Lake, some 15 by 10 miles 
in area, lies about five miles to the northeast of Pyramid Lake, 
and has an outlet of a small stream that enters the Truckee 
a short distance below the southern extremity of said lake. 
The lakes of Carson Sink and Carson Lake proper lie about 
thirty miles to the south of the said railway station — the two 
being connected by a stream of water that, in the flood season, 
becomes so swollen that the two lakes become really one. The 
Carson River, that takes its rise in the region of Lake Tahoe, 
empties into Carson Lake. Walker Lake lies at a distance 
south of Carson Lake about equal to that of the latter from 
the Hot Springs Station. The Mud Lakes lie north and north- 
east of Pyramid Lake — the largest being known as Upper Mud 
Lake, and as of about the same area as Walker Lake, viz, 30 
by 50 miles. The remarkable characteristic of all these lakes 
is, that they have no outlet and that their volume seems to 
be reduced only by evaporation — that of Pyramid Lake, as 
stated l)y Fremont, varying in level as much as twelve feet from 
high-water mark. 

WHITE PLAINS, 

some twenty miles beyond, next engages our attention, lying, 
as it does, upon the borders of the Mirage Plains, that stretch 
away oft' to the south like a sea of sand, and, hence, thinking 



The San Francisco Club. 323 

how the same could be utilized, it was suggested that it would 
be a good site for a glass factory; and as Sir Knight Eudy is 
in the stained-glass business, we thought it probable he might 
be induced to set up business here and to add the bottle de- 
partment thereto, for which he might be qualified to be the 
chief "blower." This, we think, is about the nearest that he 
could ' be induced to patronize the bottle — his propensity being 
to invest his surplus in the proverbial "2-fer." 

HUMBOLT LAKE. 
Speeding onward, we reach Brown's Station, fifteen miles 
farther across the Great Basin, at this point a view is had of 
another lake that may be considered as part of the lake region, 
although upon the frontier thereof, viz, Humbolt Lake — the 
last of any moment upon our route until we reach the Great 
Salt Lake. Humbolt Lake, like many of those in the course 
of the Columbia Eiver, is really but the expansion of the river 
of the same name. This river is about 350 miles long, and 
the lake is about the area as those of Walker and the Upper 
Mud Lakes. The surplus water, over and above that used 
for irrigation purposes and evaporation, flows southwestward 
into the Carson Lakes, as already mentioned. 

LOVELOCKS. 

A further advance of fifteen miles brings us to the station 
of Lovelocks, whose population, of some 900, and its surround- 
ings affords us something of a refreshing change from the 
monotony that seemed for many miles previous to have settled 
upon us like a nightmare. The proximity, however, of the 
town to Humbolt Eiver has enabled its promoters to avail 
themselves of the facilities afforded for irrigation — a fact that 
still further demonstrates that all that is necessary to improve 
the greater part of this region is to enlist a general resort to 
the use of such means. Moreover, since our course wall follow 
that river for some two hundred miles, at a greater or less 
remove therefrom, we would expect, under ordinary circum- 
stances, to see a cultivated strip of ground during our transit 
along the same. 



324 The Pilgrimage of 



OREANA AND RYE PATCH. 

Some thirteen miles farther we approach Oreana, that ap- 
pears to be principally a place of residence for a small com- 
munity of those engaged in mining interests. 

Rye Patch, some ten miles farther upon our way, wath its 
peculiar name, excited our curiosity to discover the reason for 
its being so named. We saw small tracts of ground, however, 
covered with what is here known as wild rye, and that it re- 
sembles what we have seen in the Southern Border States, and is 
there known as "broom sedge." It would seem to be of no 
value for pasturage, unless it be in its young, tender state, 
during the early spring. The chief support of this hamlet is its 
connection, as in the case of Oreana, with the mining interests 
developed within reach of the same upon the line of the road. 

During the next eleven miles the same monotony, that was 
experienced before arriving within the valley of the Humbolt, 
began to settle upon us, and we feared, it would monopolize the 
balance of the day, until we arrived at 



o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 325 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

HUMBOLT STATION. 

Here, however, we were agreeably surprised to find, within 
the area of about an acre, what has really as much right to be 
called an oasis as any within the bounds of the Great Sahara. 
The course of the river having been bearing away northeast- 
wardly from the railroad after leaving Oreana, it here runs 
about some five miles distant from our course, and, therefore, 
the surroundings of the station were as desolate as of any late 
passed over. And, hence, to find here such a pretty little park, 
surrounded by a large and vigorous gro^vth of eucalyptus trees, 
a pretty lawn, fresh and green, and a central fountain throw- 
ing heavenward its jet of water, that descends in graceful curves 
of sparkling jewels, apparently as precious as those of the lapi- 
dary — a fit complement to the urns of flowers that graced the 
portico fronting the refreshment rooms — facts that carry us 
back to the land that we have left beyond the range — a scene 
to be fully appreciated here because of its marked contrast with 
the desert heath around. 

This being a regular stopping place for all passenger trains, 
the accommodations for entertainment are ever ample; and, as 
we looked into the dining-room, we saw the tables ready spread 
for all possible patrons. The companion of the writer having 
stopped here for supper some twenty years ago, she reports that 
more than a hundred from her train were at that time here ac- 
commodated. It is, therefore, seen that this oasis is some- 
thing more than a mere mushroom improvised for the inspec- 
tion of the Special. Hence, the members of the Club could 
enjoy to the full all that greeted the eye, and had the Special 
not been supplied with its own larder, we, no doubt, would have 
been pleased to have patronized the tables wnthin. As the sun, 
also, was declining toward its v.estern setting, we had a pleasant 
part of the day upon which to relax our limbs upon the side- 
walks beneath the luxuriant shade. 



)26 The Pilgrimage of 



"All aboard," however, compels a reluctant assent, and we 
are again in motion. Having now reached the base of the 
Humbolt Mountains, that bar the way to a further direct route, 
Star Peak — the highest of the range — beingseen some seven 
miles distant, the river takes a course almost due north from 
this point, and the railway of course must follow. This course 
is continued a^ far as Winnemucca Station, for some forty miles, 
from which the river and railway sweeps around the northern 
end of the East Humbolt Eange, and thence returns southward 
for about an equal distance, when our northeast course is again 
resumed to the borders of the Great Salt Lake. 

WINNEMUCCA. 

This town of Winnemucca is said to have derived its name 
from that of an Indian chief that once held sway over these 
regions. The town is of sufficient importance to mention as 
being the county seat of Humbolt County, and as having, it 
is reported, a population of 2,000. The people are chiefly en- 
gaged in trade with the mining regions and ranches of the little 
valleys that converge to this one. But little of the town was 
visible from the train in passing. Call for dinner, and its usual 
detentions closed the views of the outer world and the transcripts 
of the day. 

SABBATH MORN. 

The early hours of Sunday, the 11th, disclosed our passage 
over an arm of Salt Lake, and those of the Club that could 
rub their eyes open, upon looking out, found themselves moving 
over an expanse of waters, upon a pile-supported system of 
trestlework, some fifteen miles long. By this cut-off, the long 
detour around the northern head of the lake by the regular 
line was avoided, and a distance of some forty miles was saved. 
Therefore, we reached Ogden about 6 A. M., where the Special 
was scheduled to stop for forty minutes. Two trains, however, 
occupying the sidings between the Special and the station, those 
desiring to visit the latter had to pass around the said trains. 
The writer was one so desiring, and though apparently loitering 



The San Francisco Club. 327 

thereabouts not more than live or ten minutes, he then returned 
by the same devious course, when, lo ! and behold ! the Special 
had flown, and was already out of sight upon its way to the 
Holy City. To follow afoot at this disadvantage was not to 
be discussed, and so something else had to be devised. Our 
program being thus ruthlessly disturbed, the question was sug- 
gested as to whether we should be content to interview the Mor- 
mons of Ogden, or still seek, under better auspices, to hold direct 
communication with the apostles at the fountain-head. The 
latter, upon reflection, still seemed preferable. 

Meanwhile, upon inquiry, we learned that a train would leave 
for Salt Lake City after a lapse of an hour, and, therefore, we 
would still have a pretty full day in and about the Temple. 

Now, how further this hour was improved, we have not di- 
vulged in full, and yet the sapient ones of the Club have sur- 
mised that our apparent mishap was a matter of premeditation 
in giving our guardians the slip, and, therfore, in solution of 
the enigma, in addition to what Sir Knight Macklin has re- 
corded, another poetaster issued the following doggerel, as ad- 
dressed to one of the Club : 

My Dear Sir Knight 
Will recall the sad plight 
Of the luckless wight 
Who, in absence of mind. 
Was left behind 

At Ogden. 

'Tis true, that 'twas said. 
That the Mormon error 
Had for him no terror. 
And, hence, 'twas plead 
Why he was led 
To stop at Ogden. 

And what further was indited, deponent saith not. 

At all events, the said renegade arrived at Salt Lake City 
in time for breakfast, and subsequently to make his program for 
the day upon assurances given that he was not to visit the En- 



328 The Pilgrimage of 



dowment House to take an}' personal part in any Mormon mar- 
riage "stealing/' 

SALT LAKE CITY. 

The program of the writer and his companion was soon for- 
mulated, however, and we thereupon took a walk into the city 
until church hour, when we visited the M. E. Church and 
heard a sermon delivered to the faithful few who there do con- 
gregate. We happened to be present upon finance day, and 
learned that the exchequer of the church there was about as 
needy as some of our eastern churches, while the demands for the 
dissemination of the truth hereabouts, appears to be much more 
unquestionable. 

As regards the experiences of the balance of the Club during 
the day, we will have to call upon Sir Knight Macklin to com- 
plete the record. He, therefore, writes as follows : 

"The season at Saltaire, the great bathing resort on Salt 
Lake, is closed, but a special train was run out for those that 
desired to go. The waters, as many know, are so impregnated 
with salt that one can not sink in tliem. You just float about 
like a cork, without moving one of your fins. J. A. Knight 
sat upright in the waters of the lake and smoked a cigar, and Joe, 
well, he l)obbed about on the waves like a floater on a fish-line. 
I think Parker, also, was in pickle, the first general wash he 
has had since leaving home. Salt Lake City, the home of the 
Mormons, as a town of magnificent distances, as is indicated by 
the fact that its population is 75,000. and it has seventy-five 
miles of street railway. There are 45,000 Mormons residing 
in the city; and, beside the great Mormon temple and taber- 
nacle (the former of which cost $4,000,000, there are thirty-five 
small ^Mormon churches, or one to every three blocks in the city. 
They are certainly an industrious religious sect, and get in their 
work among the young people every time. Mr. Manning asked 
a little girl, on her way to ^lormon Sunday-school, how many 
brothers and sisters she had? She replied, Avith pride, forty- 
three. I went, with others, to see the tabernacle, in the morn- 
ing. A very zealous i\Iormon was our guide. After telling us 



The San Francisco Club. 329 

all about its conception and construction, its dimensions, 
150x250x80 feet, the finest organ in the world, etc., we went 
back 200 feet from the pulpits and heard a pin drop at the 
other end. The Mormons believe that the acoustic properties 
of this structure are of miracular origin. Our guide then 
preached our little party of ten persons a sermon, claiming that 
the only difference between our belief and theirs was that they 
maintained the doctrine of continuous revelation, visions and 
unmistakable Divine direction in things material. I told him 
we could not subscribe to that interpretation of the Bible; and 
that, further, we did believe that forms of worship or eccle- 
siastical interpretations were essential to human happiness or 
salvation ; that religion was a matter of the heart and not of 
the head. 

"In the afternoon, at 2 o'clock, we heard Eev. Taylor preach, 
and the great choir of 500 voices sing. This family has in- 
creased very rapidly since Brigham Young came over the plains 
with 143 men, 3 women, 2 children, 70 wagons and 1 cannon, 
in the forties. Over the door of Zion's Co-operative Store of 
Salt Lake are the words, "Holiness to the Lord." This place 
does a business of $5,000,000 a year." 

GLENWOOD SPRINGS. 

"We left the Mormons to their idols, their political scheming 
and general trickery and, after a night's ride over the steep 
grades of a mountain range, we came to Glenwood Springs, 
that was, indeed, a revelation to us, in the grandeur of its sur- 
roundings, it being set in a contour of the mountains between 
which the Grand River, muddy from the washings of the mines 
above, finds its rapid way. The game-keeper of this section in- 
formed the writer that there is no case of rheumatism that does 
not take wings and fly away after treatment in the vapor caves 
and hot springs of this region. A magnificent and commodious 
hotel in the midst of a great sweep of green and well-shaped 
lawns and fountains of water, entertain the well-to-do invalid 
and traveler to these healing fountains. 

There are fifty hot springs in the vicinity of Glenwood, that 



330 The Pilgrimage of 



boil up out of the earth. The Mammoth hot spring, or bathing 
pool, is 600 feet long, 110 feet wide and 5 feet deep. The tem- 
perature is 137 degrees, and cold water flows in constantly to 
keep it at bathing temperature. It is open to the sky, and into 
the hot sulphur pool many of the Pilgrims plunge and divest 
themselves of a thick coating of alkali dust, taken on while 
crossing the N^evada desert. Others go into the vapor caves 
and sweat it out. We drink from the boiling hot sulphur water 
drinking pool, that flows 1,700 gallons a minute, but it is not 
as palatable as some of Baggagemaster Burkholder's soft drinks. 
If some of our old rheumatics from the East could come here, 
they would get a new lease of life and think it worth living. 
Diseases of the liver and skin are also banished, and digestion 
goes on as the Lord intended it should, and dull people are 
made bright, and a wife, ill-tempered, not by nature but by in- 
digestion, ripens into an angel." 

Xow, as regards the wonderful eflBciency of these waters to 
transform even a perverse better-half into an angelic form, the 
writer cannot speak from experience, nor does the Sir Knight 
attempt to tell of their effects in this line upon one of vigorous 
health, should one such here indulge. We do admit, also, that 
we have not conversed with him in regard to what creed he en- 
dorses, but we will take it for granted that he does not advocate 
"works of supererogation," and, hence, the writer thinks that the 
Sir Knight will agree that as our companion, with many others 
of the Special, are already angels, it would have been superfluous 
for these to have indulged in such nauseating potations (as 
he would have us infer these to be), the effect of which might 
have been to degenerate, rather than intensify, their angelic 
qualities. At all events, we heard of none bearing away with 
them any of the bottled reputed nectar. We will, therefore, 
allow the Sir Knight to ruminate for the time being, until he 
shall be able to refute or confirm, the truth of the epitaph of an 
experimenter in this line on whose tomb was the following in- 
scription : 

"I was well. I wanted to be better. 
I took physic, and here I lie." 



The San Francisco Club. 331 



CHAPTER XLIV. 

UPON THE GRAND EIVEE. 

And, now that we are upon the Grand, we take advantage, 
during the early hours of mid-day, to follow its course, explore 
its canon, and thus be permitted to enjoy a portion of its wild 
scenery in our upward progress to the pass that is to admit us 
to our next scheduled place of rest. As if, however, to prepare 
us by a temporary suspension of vision, the light of day is sud- 
denly extinguished by our passage through three tunnels in 
close connection, of varying length. These having been passed 
through, we find ourselves in a position to note the fact of our 
upward climb. And, as we thread our way in conformity to 
the sinuosities of the river, the result of these successive experi- 
ences is brought home to us, in that, while some of these canons 
are more sublime in the audacity of their environing walls than 
others, yet all present such a variety of features that we are 
not permitted for a moment to relapse into ennui, but, on the 
contrary, ever find visions new to occupy the mind and gratify 
the taste. 

Thus, the tourist not only finds entertainment in the rich 
successions of colossal mountain views, but sees, also, in the 
rocky formations around him materials for study that excite 
wonder, as well as afford means for mental enrichment. Under 
the alchemy of Nature's crucibles the alternations of sedimen- 
tary deposits and transformed dikes are brought to view, as the 
more friable portions of the uplifted strata are wasted, and the 
residue wrought into spire, tower and peak to defy awhile longer 
the perpetual war of the elements — an exhibit in which the 
Titan sculptor shows his handiwork in various stages of develop- 
ment, that the same may be in plan and form the model of 
the architect of to-day for the more minute detail of column, 
entablature and finial — the inexpert tourist meanwhile absorbing 
the work in its various states of completion, in form and color. 

Hence, we now note, as we pass the more finished touches of 



332 The Pilgrimage of 



the upper works, while the structures of the base of tlie rocky 
formations are being wrought out in part by the agencies of the 
present to evolve, as it were, subjects of contemplation for even 
the most casual observer, that he, too, may appropriate some 
of the rich tracery of the colossal plans that, for ages, have re- 
sponded only to the smiles of the orb of day. As, however, in 
the works of men, the graceful styles of the Orient, as illustrated 
in the pointed of the Gothic, are contrasted with the dome and 
ponderous basal structure of an Angelo and a Wren, so, now, 
we enter the higher reaches of the canon, where pyramid, buttress, 
wall and continuous line of escarpment come into view, that, 
in their lines of stratification, prove their ancient origin as 
sedimentary under submergence, and thus held for the inspec- 
tion of the modern inquirer. It is true that confusion seems to 
be the prominent feature of the outlook, as if some horde of 
rival builders had come upon the scene and expelled the Titan 
workmen in their labors, and then abandoned the fray to the 
agencies of denudation to render the lines more graceful, and 
convert the serrated into the ponderous dome or the isolated 
peak. The landscape enthusiast and the resourceful geologist 
may, therefore, still find sufficient material to detain them longer 
amid these environs, while the Special passes to other scenes 
beyond, ere the declining day shut out further phases of the 
varying succession. 

THE CANON. 

But not as yet are we released from the canon, but, on the 
contrary, evidences seem to accumulate that we are about to be 
driven into a cul-de-sac (or pocket), as the French savant 
would say, and there be left to ruminate at will. The track 
croAvds still more closely to the river, the bluffs overhang more 
threateningly, and the gloom is intensified by the blackened as- 
pect of the entire enviromnment ; and, therefore, we are all expec- 
tancy to know the cause, since the impending shades are more 
intense than the shadows of an obscured sun would suggest at 
such an early hour of the afternoon. The cause, however, is 
soon revealed by our approach to the extensive lava beds, com- 



The San Francisco Club. 333 

posed of the refuse scoria of comparatively late volcanic action. 
We have now, at length, discovered the scene of the blacksmith 
fires of the Titan workmen in which they wrought their tools for 
the stupendous masonry that we have so recently viewed en 
route — fires that, of course, upon the interruption of the work, 
would of necessity expire, leaving behind only the cinders to 
mark the spot of the forges of the workmen. And, as we view 
the precipitous depth of the blackened, porous mass of scoria 
upon the river bank in varying height, like the dumps of our 
most extensive blast furnaces, the illusion is so strong that we 
at first debate if the agency of man was not employed to dump 
here his refuse of cinder. But the mass, and the extent of the 
deposit, compel the admission that the fires that were the source 
of this blackened accumulation were more stupendous than the 
most herculean of man's pyrotechnics. And so fresh, too, do 
these deposits seem, in their unsullied blackness, that we are 
constrained to ask if they really could have here been dumped 
in prehistoric times, or were they but the abandoned refuse of 
the forces whose activities we so recently witnessed at Glen- 
wood, as spouting forth aqueous floods, whose intensity of heat 
left no suspicion of the existence of those subterranean fires 
that ever and anon in this region exhibit pristine 'vigor. And, 
yet, we are even now reminded that the palpable effects of these 
intense forces do give place to those that have been conquering 
elsewhere even, though we may admit their having commenced 
their active aggression at an earlier date, as shown upon all 
sides, as we pass from the Canon of the Grand over the divide 
into the broader valley of 

THE EAGLE. 

The attractions of advanced vegetation, under culture, gives 
a tranquil change from the evidences of disturbance that we 
have just left behind — the sequel to a like order of things 
that once obtained in this valley also at an earlier stage in the 
earth's history — an earnest that those heights just traversed will 
give place also to the incidents of that period — when "Every 
valley shall be filled, and every mountain and hill shall be brought 



334 The Pilgrimage of 



](nv ; and iUv crooktHl shall \)v made strai<;lit and tlio rough places 
sliall he made smooth." 

The evidenees of man's ])artial and ultimate supremacy in 
being al)l(' to \itili'/e tliese I'orces of Nature are seen in our fur- 
ther progress in passing the successive stations, hamlets and 
villages upon our route, as if they had caught inspiration from 
the erystai water of the Eagle Hiver, in sm-h strong contrast 
with the cloudy stream of the Grand. It is here, too, that the 
trout is said to luxuriate in tlu^ir nu)st congenial element, and 
to afTord (wliauslless pleasure to th(> most ardent angler. The 
rre(|uent cultivated Held and pasture land, ranch house and herds 
of cattle enhance the charms of still-life and suggest the allitera- 
tion of |)eace, plenty and prosperity. A sojourn of a few days 
hei'c also would not be amiss, wo venture to say, to the most 
])hlegnuitic of the duh. Meanwhile, we have passed Eagle, Sher- 
wood, Wolcott, Allenton, Avon and Minturn. 

We ha\(' lunv traversed some fifty-eight miles from Cilenwood, 
made an ascent of some 2,050 feet, and are content to rest a 
few minutes at the last-nanu>d station — the end of the railway 
division. 

MlNTinW. 

The town has a population of souu^ 500, is the location of 
the round-houses and re])air-shoj)s of the division, and is a 
regular stopping ])lace of all trains. 

EAGLE CANON. 

Leaving Minturn, we now enter the Canon of the Eagle; 
and, while its bordering environs are not so clifl'-like and awe- 
inspiring, yet they approach so near the river margin that the 
roadway has oft to encroach upon the same, and thus come within 
the ai'ea of their overhanging brows. Here and there a promi- 
nent clitr juts out from its evergreen franu'work, varying in 
height from one to two thousand feet, and, therefore, bar out the 
sunlight even at this hour of oui- passing. And, yet, we have, 
in the heart of the canon, evidences of the ever-ready activity 
of man to invade what would seem inaccessible, for almost at 



The San Francisco Club. 335 



the vory .suminil. oi' what .sceincd Lo \n- n rrctili-wroii/^liL nlidi!, 
tlie lodgciH ol' KiiiKTH wava pcrcUitd againnl; lln- piciipitouH BJdeH, 
ravitiiWu^ l\u: lad iiial tlu; Hoanli for tli<! pn-c^iouH iiudalH liad al- 
lured III'' ))i(ji-;|j(;(:l.()r even info lliew* JanlncHWH, and thai tlic 
resultK had Ixtan Hufficienl. lo ii tain I hem. Ah I.o Uk; af^grogato 
of Ihcir lin<lingH wt; did nol ln-ar, and y<;t wit thouglit that »«ardi 
made under Hu<h dilliciilt cireiunntanccH deHcrvd anifjlo m- 
niimeralion. The written jtage, however, JB not long delayed 
in recounting th<; HueeesB of niiui in their neareh for wealth, but 
Hilenee in oft the only reward that thouHands of failun^H entail. 
At all eventw, we heard nom- of lln' (Inh d<'l);ii<- ihc rjueHtion of 
denerting the comfortable quartern of the Special for tlie appar- 
ently forlorn Hpecimens of real (;Htate of thow; upper regiouK. 

lint the progreHK of the Special foiiddn longer indulgence; 
in 8Ugg<»<ted thoughtH and th<! realitien of tin; way donand a 
further outlook. 

I(i:i) CLIFF, 

We note thc' widening of the view, as we pa«H out of ivigh; 
Canon and apf»roach Heri Clilf, nin*.- (nil<;H diwtant from our 
lant (stop at .Vlinturn, after a fiirther accent of 780 feet. ThiH 
fitation in a pretty little town of 1,000 irjhahitanlH, and enjoyB 
hotli political ajid buBJness conneotionH that give it the bawis of 
a pei/jianent proHperity and the? earncKt of a future growth. It 
iH the county neat of Kagle County, and in the \)UH\n*^>. cejjlie 
of important mining interehtfi. Among those of the iieighhor- 
hood, it maintaiuK large buHim;H8 connectionn with the world- 
renowned Leadville, that in locat<:;d only twenty-five mileK dis- 
tant. Its bu«ine«K interestH, however, do not overehadow the fact 
that, nestling at the height of 8,008 feet, in the midst of tlie 
most sublime scenery of canon and jnountain height, it naturally 
utilijces the pure invigorating air and pelucid wat/;rs of the 
Eagle liiver, near its very sources — a fact that gives it original 
claim upon the tourist and the w^eker aft(;r health. 

Moreover, when it is recalled that Re^l ('liff is the nearest 
point of transit t/> the Mountain of the ffoly Cross, that lifts its 
giddy summit to the height of 14,170 feet above its peers of the 
range, it will ever make this point one of increasing interest. 



336 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XLV. 

THE HOLY CEOSS MOUNTAIN. 

Thus situated, in close companionship with the said peers of 
the Sagauche Eange (seven of which exceed 14,000 feet in alti- 
tude), this feature cannot but add to, rather than detract from, 
the environment of Eed Cliff, in conjunction with the associa- 
tions of the Holy Cross, that are considered by many to be a 
specialty of themselves in the role of mountain exhibits, even 
among the stalwarts of Colorado's champion peaks. Accepting, 
then, the verdict of the consensus of even the least impressive 
of the Club, we venture the assertion that the bare mention 
of the name of the Holy Cross appeals not only to the aesthetic, 
but also to the most sacred emotions of the human heart, when, 
under the inspiration of memory, we recall what we have read 
and seen of the sublimity of this massive peak, as delineated 
upon the canvas of the gifted artist. Therefore, as previously 
adverted to in connection with the experience of the writer, in 
gazing upon the original of Bierstadt's Donner Lake, we affirm 
also that like emotions have been duplicated in the case of its 
acknowledged counterpart of the Holy Cross by Thomas Moran, 
which the older members of the Club, no doubt, also saw on 
exhibition upon the same walls of the said Centennial at Phila- 
delphia. 

In referring to the name of Thomas Moran, in passing, some 
of us will recall also others of the masterpieces of the same 
artist that are identified with the beauties of these western wilds, 
and that are so rich in their suggestiveness to these interpreters 
of nature, who, with their colleagues of the poetic guild, are 
qualified to convey to other minds than the mere tourist these 
enchanting scenes that otherwise would be enjoyed by but the 
comparative few. Therefore, in addition to his work of the 
Holy Cross, we may add his paintings of "The Grand Canon of 



The San Francisco Club. 337 



the Yellowstone" and "The Chasm of the Colorado," both of 
which were purchased by Congress to adorn the Capitol at Wash- 
ington at a cost of $10,000 each. 

May we not, therefore, be* pardoned for our evident enthusiasm 
in wishing to see the original of the said masterpiece of the Holy 
Cross in its native setting; not only as a sublime specimen of 
N^ature's handiwork, but also in its associated relations with the 
period of its origin that antedates time primeval as the symbol 
of the "Lanil) slain from the foundation of the world." While 
realizing, therefore, its significance of to-day as the supremo 
ideal of the Christian Church, we, at the same time, recall this 
emblem as characteristic of the insignia of our beloved Order in 
connection with its diadem of the crown suggestive of the final 
award to the faithful ones, who, in the truthful reception of the 
regalia thereof realize that only in the heart and the life are 
the pledges that earn these guerdons of immortality. Therefore, 
though the conception of the cross existed only in purpose before 
time was, yet, in the fact that this mountain cross, in its virgin 
purity of snow, responded by its reflections to the rays of the 
first sun that gilded these upper heights, revealing their glories 
to the denizens of the skies before man walked this mundane 
sphere; yet we have in this manifestation the concrete prophecy 
of the final legacy to man upon that other Mount of Calvary, 
in which faith finds its consummation in the conception of the 
sublimity of sacrifice for others, in a relation that only the true 
Knight can apprehend. 

Therefore, we make no apology for the retention of the symbol 
as the supreme emblem of our fraternal association in the sphere 
of the present, being aware, meanwhile, of the reality of the 
deduction that the same still is and ever will be perennial in 
other relations in its influence to invigorate the crusade of the 
Christian Church. Therefore, further, we may not be accused of 
being too imaginative in linking the material beauties of this ob- 
ject of sense with those that are indissolubly associated with the 
realities of the spiritual sphere, that, in turn, are just as firmly 
rooted in the consciousness of the subject as are the outlines of 
the objects of vision upon the natural retina — the latter, indeed, 



338 The Pilgrimage of 



being but the medium of communication with the outer world 
by the spiritual entity enthroned in the background. 

TENNESSEE PASS. 

And, now that we are making the final stage of ascent to the 
Tennessee Pass, that constitutes the divide, or water-shed, of 
the Pacific slope from the Atlantic, we naturally recall our ex- 
perience of twenty days previous in crossing the Great Divide 
of the Canadian Rockies, in which the incidents of Laggan, just 
left behind, and those of the Kicking Horse, immediately before 
us, with their thrilling associations are still fresh in our memories. 
It is true that the Canadian divide is but 5,396 feet of an alti- 
tude, and that of the Tennessee Pass, over which we are now 
passing, is 10,418 in height, yet the difference in latitude was 
more than compensated for in the snow-capped environs of the 
former, at the expense of the latter. Even at our present excess 
of elevation the dense forest growth on either hand restrict 
the view to an occasional glimpse only of the summits j\Its. 
Galena and Homestake (13,073 feet), near neighbors to the 
Holy Cross — views that give way without warning to a plunge 
into a tunnel of a half mile long, that, it is true, is conducive to 
reflection, but of the baser sort under the circumstances; and 
yet affording consolidation in the fact that "it is a long lane 
that has no turn" — a suggestion that was verified at length in 
our emergence therefrom upon the summit of the Pass, after an 
ascent of 1,810 feet within the distance of thirteen miles from 
Red Cliff station, that we have left behind us in the valley below. 
Taking, no\\% the down grade, the small station of Malta is soon 
reached — the junction of a branch line to Leadville, that is taken 
advantage of by those that would visit the "Cloudy City" en 
route to, or upon the return from the cities of the plateau upon 
the course before us at our feet. 

The succeeding stations of Gordon, Hayden and Twin Lakes 
are now passed rapidly and the station of Granite is reached, 
from which stage passage is made to said lakes, seven miles dis- 
tant, that have a combined length of four miles and lie at the 
great altitude of 9,360 some feet above the sea, and, therefore, as 



The San Francisco Cliib. 339 



to altitude al lea«t, transcend thone of Lakes Louise and Mirror, 
of the Canadian Rockies. Since the itinerary does not provide 
for a trip to the Twins, as in the ease of the latter lakes, we must 
leave their attractions to other eye witnesses to describe. 

The Sj)e(ial, still retaining her late "hustle," passes, mean- 
while, the little stations of Pine Creek, Riverside and Americus 
in twice so many minutes over the intervening space of seventeen 
miles, and a descent of 9T5 feet to Buena Vista. It is at this 
point that we first strike the Arkansas River, along whose course 
we will now descend for the balance of the day still left us. 

BUENA VISTA, 

being a coiuity seat and situated in close touch with a prolific 
mining region of the precious metals, with tracts of grazing 
lands and those of the hardier cereals, it bids fair to maintain, 
if not increase, its growth, having now a population approxi- 
mating '^,000, while possessing all the educational, business, as 
w^ell as sanitary conditions for which this region is proverbial. 
Being also the railway point of connection with the Cottonwood 
Hot Springs, some six miles distant, that are celebrated for their 
curative properties, as well a.« for their near proximity to the 
lofty mountain peaks of Harvard, Yale, Princeton and La Plata 
— each of which exceed 14,000 feet in altitude — a mountain en- 
vironment that is also shared by those of Princeton Hot Springs, 
that are but three miles more distant than the aforesaid, of which 
there are forty that issue an output of 1,000,000 gallons daily 
— facts, these, of conditions that will compel Glenwood to look 
well to its laurels, if its management would not have the denizens 
of Denver, Colorado Springs and other populous centres farther 
east to be more strongly attracted to these uplands and their 
inimitable environs 

But we dare not longer delay in this locality, even although so 
much be found to enlist our protracted attention, but upon the 
flying wheels of the Special we must make up for time already 
lost, as we hurry past the minor stations of Midway, Nathrop, 
Calumet, Heel a Junction and Brown Canon, beyond the last- 
named of which we pass through another wild gorge of the same 



340 The Pilgrimage of 



name, whose confusedly-strewn rocks betokened that here, again, 
the Titans of old have been disturbed at their work and been 
compelled to leave their structures unfinished, and yet sufl&ciently 
alert as to take their tools with them. 




<i/ W Vb 
o o o 



The San Francisco Cluh. 341 



CHAPTER XLVI. 

SALIDA. 

The announcement that the important station of Salida is 
just before us, and that we will there make a brief stop now 
enlists our attention. Pulling up at the station, the most of the 
Club alight, and as a curio booth stood near, many avail them- 
selves of the chance to examine and purchase a few souvenirs. 
It was readily seen, also, that this is quite an important station 
and a central point for the reception of the crude ores from the 
mining regions. Maintaining a population approximating some 
5,000, and interested in the variety of mineral products, in gold, 
silver, copper, iron and coal, that call into requisition a goodly 
percentage of the same in the smelting and handling their ores, 
it is seen that other branches of business are necessarily en- 
couraged thereby, in addition to what is attracted thither to meet 
the demands of the tourist interests that are constantly coming 
into more conspicuous requisition. Like many other points 
in this region of recent volcanic activity, hot springs here abound 
also in near reach and, therefore, come in for their share of 
patronage also. Among these are the Wellsville Hot Springs, 
that are located only six miles distant, upon the opposite side 
of the river, of which the environs may be seen from the passing 
train upon our further route. 

Upon leaving the station, the call for dinner is announced, 
and that the same may be desjjatched in time not to int<i)-f(;re 
with our enjoyment of the Canon of the Arkansas, and its cul- 
mination of the Royal Gorge, all became solicitous to see the 
same before the close of the day, and, therefore, were desirous 
of being prepared for the same upon arrival within their em- 
brace. As the canon is now only some forty-five miles distant, 
dinner, of course, must be sacrificed, if it at all interferes with 
a feast of vision compared with which the most elaborate bill of 
fare is but a trifle, and, therefore, readily to be dispensed with if 



342 The Pilgrimage of 



necessary. Nip and tuck is, therefore, the order of the hour, 
and the Special wins, as we now see the precipitous cliffs ap- 
proach each otlier, and the already distraught river is becoming 
still more furious at the increasing restrictions of the river bed. 

THE ROYAL GORGE. 

The stupendousness of the enterprise of traversing these here- 
tofore impossible depths from the standpoint of the projectors 
of the road, divides our attention with that of the grandeur of the 
canon, as we enter upon the ten miles of the crowning piece 
of scientific engineering carried successfully forth in the face 
of these colossal piles that, at sight, one would suppose utterly 
insurmountal)le, and, therefore, continue to defy the efforts of 
the most daring. Viewing them in the majesty of their bearing, 
we have unimpeachable evidence of their structure, as the result 
of forces that dwarf into insignificance human instrumentali- 
ties to originate, either in form or content, the massive combina- 
tion of these granite walls that here lift their eternal cliffs from 
subterranean depths that plummet line cannot fathom, and whose 
methods of couiposition mock the crucial efforts of the crucible 
to restore, or to devise "in what a forge and what a heat was 
shaped the anchors" of their confident repose. 

The survey of the canon having disclosed the continued nar- 
rowness of the river bed to the very base of the bordering cliffs, 
and also the unbroken facade of the latter for almost the entire 
length of the gorge, the resort to tunneling or of scaling the 
cliffs had to be considered, if no other expedient could be de- 
vised. Upon consideration, these uiethods, however, had to be 
abandoned on the score of expense and impracticability. 

THE PROBLEM CONFRONTED AND SOLVED. 

But one other plan of traversing the gorge was left, viz, that 
of cutting a road-bed into the facade of the continuous preci- 
pice, and the devising of a method for its accomplishment. 
Mounting, therefore, to the sky-line of the cliffs, continuous der- 
ricks were erected, from which ropes attached to terminal chairs 
were dropped, conveying the adventurous rock drillers to the de- 



The San Francisco Clnh. 343 



sired horizontal of operations. Upon this horizontal, drillings 
were commenced at a downward and inward incline, until, by 
subsequent blastings, a shelf was wrought of sufficient width 
for a transferrence thereto of the drillers from their chairs for 
a more rapid economy of labor. Thence, continuing the same 
downward incline to the line of the ultimate road-bed, by a con- 
tinuous chipping away of the now broadening bed, both inward 
and toward the outer surface of the precipice, an elongated notch 
was at length made, parallel with the course of the river, whose 
base was identical with the surface of the road-bed, and its apex 
the vertical line of the precipice at the initial horizontal of 
operations. Slowly but surely the work progressed, at a cost of 
$140,000 per mile, or at the aggregate outlay of $1,400,000 for 
the length of the canon, to completion, in spite of almost super- 
human obstacles, by the exercise of patience, energy and perse- 
verance, although in constant peril to life and limb, but, never- 
theless without accident to either so far as transpired. 

These details of scientific skill may, in a measure, be grasped, 
but not so the attempt to embody in language to even a faint 
degree the impressions made upon the mind of the beholder 
upon the completion of the work by the sublimity of the continu- 
ous chasm ; the portrayal of the elements that enter into the 
causes thereof ; the inquiry as to when Nature began the solution 
of her portion of the problem in regard to her role in the display 
of the resources at her disposal. Or, further — who was the 
Time-keeper during the process of the original evolution, as well 
as during the subsequent period, when the erosive agents did 
their effective work ? Or, again, in so doing, did the latter alone 
work out the final structure which hiiman agency has here simply 
modified, and now has utilized for his pleasure and profit? Or, 
was the result facilitated originally under the shrinking pro- 
cesses attendant upon the cooling of the granitic dike, that 
thrust its volume above the alluvium during the volcanic period 
— thus supplying the primeval crevasse through which the pluvial 
floods and melted glaciers subsequently urged their volumes 
toward inland seas, preparatory to co-operation with the said hu- 
man agencies upon the lower levels? These and like suggestions 



344 The Pilgrimage of 



rush upon the mind with the passage of the Special, as, in short- 
ened, reversed and elongated curves we doubled in and out, now 
around a mass of more refractory granite, and now under a 
continuous overhang, that, like some colossal Pisa's tower, threat- 
ens to engulf the puny train beneath, or, again, pressing close to 
the parapeted wall that here and there separated us from the 
no less obstructive stream below, enraged that we, too, should 
dare to dispute her claim of monopoly to the long since appro- 
priated glen. But now the train slackens, and we find ourselves 
within the final embrace of the Eoyal Gorge, where the opposing 
precipices approach each other to the narrow interval of thirty 
feet — at which point the river will submit to no further en- 
croachment, and, therefore, the road-bed at this juncture is 
made to hang suspended from huge trusses, whose extremities 
are imbedded in the faces of the opposing walls, and the river 
is then placated by being permitted to pass beneath. Therefore, 
it may be permitted, in this connection, to quote the description 
of the first transit through this canon by a special train, upon 
its first opening to the tourist public and the demands of trade. 
The wonders thus revealed, and the occasion thereof, was graphi- 
cally described at that time by a correspondent of the Denver 
Tribune, as follows : 

"The most stupendous achievement of railway engineering 
over ISTature's efforts to obstruct the pathway of commerce, was 
triumphantly achieved on the 7th of May, 1879, by the Atchison, 
Topeka and Santa Fe Eailway Company, which, on that day, 
made the passage of the Grand Canon of the Arkansas, with a 
train of cars carrying an excursion party of ladies and gentlemen, 
numbering over two hundred persons. This rock-bound river 
pathway became known to Spanish Missionaries as early as the 
year 1642. From that time it was not known that any animal 
life had ever passed through it successfully, until the winter of 
1870. The approach to the canon is gradual. The distant hills 
draw nearer, and the valley of the Arkansas becomes narrower 
and narrower, until the river is shut in closely on both sides 
by high mountains, sloping gently away and covered with ver- 
dure. Then the slope of the mountains becomes more perpen- 



The San Francisco Club. 345 

dicular, and the hills become higher, until, suddenly, the river is 
completely shut in by mountains with mighty tops. 

The roar and rattle of the train grows louder and echoes up 
and down. The train is fairly in the canon. It moves slowly. 
The mountain walls are of a dizzy height, and so close together 
that, looking ahead, they appear simply to form a crevice, a huge, 
awful, crooked crevice, through which the miserable train is 
timidly crawling. The curves of the canon are superb. They 
constitute the finishing touch to its grandeur, and fill the mind 
with a full appreciation of this great miracle of Nature. But 
the Royal Gorge ! Imagine two almost perfectly perpendicular 
walls, rising to the height of 3,000 feet, those walls presenting 
jagged and irregular masses of rock, that, on the railroad side, 
hang over the train, all creviced and ready to fall in thousands 
of tons. The road-bed is cut out of the solid rock, and masses 
of this hang over it, stretching out a hundred feet. One cannot 
look up to the top of this wall on account of those projecting, 
irregularities, but the height to the top, even as measured by 
the eye, disturbs the faculties and brings on vertigo. The 
cooped-up Arkansas rushes madly by a narrow thread, made still 
more so by the rocks thrown into it. There is not room to step 
from the train without pitching into the river. Not a word 
is uttered. The engineer whistles occasionally, and timid folks 
look for the rocks to fall. It is really a strain on the mind to 
take it in ; and this can be only feebly done on a single trip. Two 
thousand feet above you are the tops of the mountain walls. 
You are imprisoned in a crack thirty feet wide, and are partially 
under one mountain wall. You can see on the opposite side the 
gradations of the verdure, rich below, impoverished above. And 
the curves become more awful as you look ahead or back. There 
is no sunlight in the gorge, but it slanted down the opposite 
mountain wall as the party returned through the canons, in- 
creasing the surpassing beauty of the scene." 

And now, after having traversed afoot the suspended road-bed, 
and taken in as much of the environs by a backward view as we 
could in the gloaming, the summons of "all aboard" was sounded, 
and, upon heeding the same, we once more took possession of 



)46 The Pilgrimage of 



our quarters, awaiting further developments. While awaiting, 
therefore, the sequel, a late call to dinner was announced, which, 
too, in turn, was heeded by those that had not accepted the earlier 
calls. ^Meanwhile, a comparison of the views of each upon the 
wonders of the gorge Just traversed, monopolized the attention of 
all, either between the courses of the menu or of those of the 
sections that were not so engaged. The curtains of night being 
now drawn, shutting out the scenes of the outer world, that 
might otherwise attract some attention, the situation after the 
finale was congenial for retrospection, by the banishment of all 
new material demanding further stretches of attention, when 
satiety had now assumed the throne, and rest for body and mind 
was paramount as if in reaction of the late excitement. 

"THE PITTSBUEG OF THE WEST." 

Thus, the time passed upon fleet pinions until Pueblo, at about 
8 P. ^r.. was announced, at which place we were scheduled to 
stop some thirty minutes. As this interval of time was not 
sufficient to admit of our leaving the platform of the station, we 
were not permitted, of course, to see anything of this "Pittsburg 
of the West," as the city is now popularly known. Had it been 
otherwise, we could, no doubt, have profitably spent a half-day 
or more in perambulating its busy streets, and in learning some- 
thing definite of its business activities, that we learned from 
other sources, were constantly increasing in volume and im- 
portance as the centre of these regions of the plain. 

The specifications of our itinerary have determined otherwise, 
and time being called, we are again on the wing for Colorado 
Springs, our next objective point, now due north from this point. 
Thither the run was made in the usual time of transit, and there- 
upon the Special was sidetracked for the balance of the night, 
and the welcome fact assured of undisturbed sleep preparatory 
to an arduous morrow. 



The Ban Francisco Club. 347 



CHAPTER XLVII. 

COLORADO SPRINGS. 

September 13th. The early hours of Tuesday bring us back to 
consciousness, and issuing forth into the outer air to inhale the 
exhilarating oxygen, we become Byronic and hail the fact that 

"The morn is up again — the dewey morn 
With breath all incense and cheeks all bloom ; 
Laughing the clouds away with cheerful scorn, 
As if the earth contained no tomb, 

and blushing into day." 

Therefore, equipped for an early stretch of limb and prelimi- 
nary outlook, we first wander about the spacious station build- 
ing; and, thence, passing, beyond the driveway area we enter 
the beautiful and well-kept park that is limited east and west 
by the main parallel streets leading into the city, and upon the 
south by the very elegant and capacious hostelry of the Antlers, 
whose broad rotunda, easy chairs and generous appointments 
invite to a more than transient patronage. Erected at an expense 
that did not seem to consult a limit, and open to the public 
some three years since, it has, from the first, been well patronized 
at all seasons of the year by those in search of an elegant enter- 
tainment, to many of whom the cost is of secondary moment. It 
is true that one feature of its appointments is discovered to be 
absent that seems to be almost universally essential in the East, 
and that is the bar. This, however, is readily explained in the 
fact that the citizens have voted the towTi to be a temperance 
place, for the reasons, as disclosed by the situation, that being a 
city of private residences, for the most part, whose proprietorship 
deemed it to be of the first importance that the interests of the 
home and society should not be endangered by the prime de- 
moralizer of civilization, and the source of every evil that most 



348 The Pilgrimage of 



contributes to the defeat of the highest moral and educational in- 
fluences, could not but oppose the licensing of that agency that 
would discourage the patronage of that class of people whom 
they wished to attract thither of the tourist world, as well as 
encourage others to here domicil, who were in search of a per- 
manent residence. Under these auspices and the unparalleled 
environment that the city can most justly boast of, Colorado 
Springs has grown to be a centre of 30,000 inhabitants, that enjoy 
all the conveniences and comforts of modern life, in conjunc- 
tion with an elegance in kind that can be excelled by no other 
spot of equal area upon the face of the globe. Surrounded, 
moreover, by a region abounding in an assemblage of scenic 
wonders that have no equal elsewhere, it not only already pos- 
sesses but is resolved to maintain its prestige, as shown in its 
extensive permanent improvements, public and private, that 
beautify the city in all directions. Men of wealth, that have 
made their fortunes in the contiguous mining regions, as well 
as those from cities farther east, have here erected beautiful 
residences, embowered in foliage and otherwise made tastefully 
conspicuous, at which they spend at least a portion of the year, 
as taste or inclination dictates, while, at the same time, availing 
themselves of the educational advantages of the locality among 
which are included Colorado College and other supporting in- 
stitutions. And, in addition to the aforesaid attractions, the 
climatic are so pronounced that not only invalids but those 
of elegant leisure gravitate thither and luxuriate to their hearts' 
content under its salubrious conditions, ultimately, however, 
tearing themselves away only under the promise of returning 
again, and thereby terminating a mutual conflict that will not 
otherwise subside. 

The antecedent causes of the climatic features referred to are 
to be accounted for chiefly from the local situation in connec- 
tion with the bounding environs consisting of the continuation 
of the Kampart Eange, upon the northwest of which Pike's Peak 
is the most conspicuous feature; the peaks of the Divide, upon 
the north, the continuous bluffs upon the east, and the Cheyenne 
^lountains upon the southwest — thus completing an enclosing^ 



The San Francisco Club. 349 

rampart that leaves the southern outlook only open, which is 
naturally not a frigid quarter. These facts, reinforced by the 
dry air and an altitude of some 6,000 feet, supply a co-opera- 
tion of elements intensified by the subsidiary one of the pure 
mountain water (conducted from Euxton Creek, upon the flanks 
of Pike's Peak), and the chalibeate springs in easy reach, con- 
spire to assure results that the experience of test pronounces to 
be valid ground for the world-wide reputation gained for this 
locality. 

But we may not longer continue our morning stroll to dwell 
further upon these considerations ; and, therefore, we return to 
the Special prepared to do justice to the breakfast bill of fare, 
and thereby become fortified for the later program of the day. 

THE GROUPING. 

Breakfast having been despatched, a council of procedure is 
called, and a division of the Club is set upon foot — one con- 
tingent deciding to go to Cripple Creek and the other to Pike's 
Peak. The writer cast in his lot with the latter contingent, 
and, therefore, in due time, we are en route by trolley to Mani- 
tou, six miles distant, at which all will recall that we take the 
famous cog-railway for the summit of the illustrious Pike. 
Many Sir Knights and their Ladies of other eastern Specials, 
also en route for home, have preceded us, and are found at the 
terminal, awaiting the next car bound for the said summit. At 
first sight it appeared that we would be crowded out for want 
of car accommodation — the capacity being limited. Fortunately, 
however, the management of the Club had pre-empted a car; 
and, our contingent being upon the qui vlve, we watched the 
arrival of the next return car, and upon its disgorgement of 
occupants, we followed the same to its shunting point beyond 
and took possession ; so that, upon the return to the platform we 
were all seated, and only surplus room is assigned to the waiting 
crowd. Our privilege having entailed some expense, in advance 
of the excursion rates granted to Knights en route, we could 
maintain our claims by right of contract. 



350 The Pilgrimage of 



THE ASCENT. 

But now we are in motion, and the ascent is commenced. 
From the start we train our optics upon our environs, that 
nothing may be lost upon our way to the great objective, some 
48,000 feet in lineal distance, at an average grade of some 845 
feet per mile; or at a maximum grade of 1,320 feet per mile — 
the sharpest curve being at 16°, described by a radius of 359 
feet. 

Having been assured, likewise, from the cost of the construc- 
tion of the road at a figure of $500,000 ; and from an inspection 
of the substantial material used therein, the most timid need 
not hesitate to make the ascent. These statements are supplied 
by the management to banish any apprehensions of danger that 
may be felt by the doubting Thomases that are found among 
all such companies of tourists. 

It may, therefore, be proper to quote some of the details given, 
to insure the safety of the patrons, as well as to give such infor- 
mation to others who may desire to know something of the 
method of propelling the car. 

The rails of the track upon which the car-wheels roll are the 
common T-rail, laid to the standard gauge. The car is pro- 
pelled by being pushed by the locomotive from the rear — the 
force being applied to what is called the Abt rack rail. "These 
rack rails are made from the best Bessemer steel, the teeth being 
cut from the solid piece by machinery. These rails are 80 inches 
long and vary in weight from 21 to 311/2 pounds per foot — the 
heaviest being used upon the steepest grades. These rails are 
laid in the centre of the track, and so associated as to make 
what is called the rack-ladder. That is, two rack rails are placed 
parallel to each other, one and five-eighths inches apart, and are 
firmly held in place by four bolts (two in the centre and one 
at each end), to three die-forged chairs, which, in turn, are 
securely fastened to the extra long and heavy ties. The rack 
rails are laid so as to break joints, and the teeth are also stag- 
gered, thus giving the two double wheels of the locomotives 
practically an even bearing at all times. The locomotives are 



The San Francisco Club. 351 



of the four-cylinder Vanclain compound pattern, the high and 
low-pressure cylinders are 10 and 15 inches in diameter, re- 
spectively, and have a 22-inch stroke. The steam pressure is 
200 pounds. Each engine is provided with two double steel 
cog-wheels, through which the power is applied ; extending from 
the sides of these wheels are four corrugated surfaces, upon 
which the powerful steam and hand brakes do their work. The 
steam cylinders are also fitted with the LeChatlier water brake, 
and are used upon the descent as air compressors, to regulate the 
speed." 

Having these assurances that our attention may not be dis- 
tracted by considerations of safety, but rather directed ex- 
clusively to the outlook, we resign the management of the car to 
the experts, whose function is to care for the live freight in 
transit. 

The gorge through which the car ascends is known as Engel- 
mann's Caiion, along whose bed tumbles Kuxton Creek, to which 
allusion has been already made as the source of the water supply 
of Colorado Springs. The bordering mountains upon either 
hand are the Mantou and Hiawatha, that here descend precipi- 
tously to the water's edge. The course of the creek is followed 
for some two miles and more, and is frequently crossed by sub- 
stantial bridges. 

As we rise, we note the isolated rocks tliat stand out in 
strong relief that come into view with more or less suddenness, 
as the road makes its sharp curves. Of these at our left, the 
bold, bare rocks upon the summit, known as Gog and ]\Iagog, 
stand facing each other, as if challenging each the other to 
mortal combat, and yet appearing as if too ponderous and un- 
wieldy to be interesting even in actual conflict. Each appears 
as if in need of training to work off their superfluous flesh, 
provided they mean business. Upon the right the outjutting 
clifl', called the Lone Fisherman, looks down from his giddy 
height into the caiion, as if in search of something that he has 
lost. We saw, however, no evidences that would suggest pisca- 
torial associations. 



352 The Pilgrimage of 



THE ECHO EOCKS AND FALLS 

are the first features that attract as we enter the Grand Pass, 
though the constant sound of the puffing engine monopolized, 
to the suppression of the echoes. 

THE HANGING ROCK, 

as it thrusts out its bold peak over the creek from the moun- 
tain spur at our right, we readily discover is well named, as it 
stands guarding the entrance to the natural tunnel made by the 
archway of the boulders that have, in other days, tumbled from 
above into the bed of the stream and been tilted into such angles 
as to admit of the passage of the water thereunder. 

Entering next a part of the canon that is somewhat widened 
(and, therefore, admits of a greater variety of vegetable life, and 
a rearward outlook into the valley below ) , we have what is known 
as Artist's Glen. 

THE PLUM PUDDING 

rock, upon the right, and its vis a vis, the Turtle and Punch 
Bowl, guard a kind of natural gateway, for which this region 
is noted, through which the Minnehaha Falls are seen in the 
background, in close neighborhood to groups of Swiss cottages 
and their environs. These consist of pretty little grass plats 
in front and mountain bulwarks in their rear, that offer kindly 
invitations to visitors to here sojourn for the open season, during 
which the railway is open— transit thereover being suspended 
during the winter. We now pass on into a section supplying 
a more restricted side view, owing to the more densely wooded 
environs here prevailing, that constitute what is known as 

WOODLAND PARK, 

among which we note trees of considerable girth and vigor of 
growth, and which, no doubt, will be allowed to remain, occupy- 
ing, as they do, land that is the property of the corporation. 

THE HALF-WAY HOUSE 
soon greets us, upon the left, and was quite a surprise in regard 



The San Francisco Club. 353 

to its appointments. We here stop for a few minutes, as the 
point is a regular station. We, therefore, had a good oppor- 
tunity to look around, only to find the hotel, as the result of our 
quest, to be quite commodious, and apparently up-to-date in 
competition with all such mountain houses. The park front- 
ing the railway, is well kept, and the stately trees are as straight 
as an arrow, as they rise in their evergreen garniture to a lofty 
height. 

HELL GATE. 

Passing between the rugged cliffs of Hell Gate, we border the 
Ruxton and Aspen Parks — the road-bed being here compara- 
tively level, and, hence, the moisture of the melting snows and 
broadened bed of the Euxton are appreciable in their effects 
upon the luxuriance of the vegetation here in evidence. Soon 
thereafter, however, the depression of the road-bed broadens 
out, as we pass 

PILOT KNOB. 

This is an elevated ledge of rocks that stretches off towards 
the northwest — the mountainous rampart of the gorge taking 
the trend in that direction. This is a favorite viewpoint from 
below of the Grand Old Pike, lying in the distance, to the right, 
while the prominent peaks to the left of 

BALDY AND SHEEP MOUNTAINS 

loom up into conspicuous notice and sharp outline. Passing up 
the now broadening opening, we soon reach the water station, 
where we stop to replenish the engine's tank before commencing 
the final and most precipitous ascent upon the road. While 
awaiting orders to go ahead, we have opportunity to survey the 
route that we are about to take, upon the flanks of the Peak 
proper. We note, therefore, that upon reaching the base, some 
half mile beyond us, that the railway veers rapidly toward the 
west, by a very steep incline, in order, as it appears, that it may 
double the prolongation of the peak in that direction. Hence, 
we have in profile, from this viewpoint, an intelligent diagram 
23 



354 The Pilgrimage of 



of how steep the incline is. Being thus forewarned, and noting 
that we are now passing beyond the timber-line, we anticipate 
a superb view of the canon, at our rear, and mountains beyond 
our viewpoint. Upon this account the extreme western point 
of the detour is called Inspiration Point. Therefore, as we 
approach and double the same, we have such a continuous view 
that we readily endorse the imagination that suggested the 
name. jSToting the outlook from said point, as we direct our 
gaze to the left, over a distance of some two miles, we plainly 
see, over the tree tops, that have not dared to encroach upon 
this lofty spot, the placid surface of ^lorain Lake — the head 
supply of Euxton Creek, and the reservoir of Colorado Springs. 
We have, therefore, here incidentally explained in Ijrief how, 
by hydrostatic pressure alone from this height, a head of water 
is attained that, by the medium of the fire hose of the city, the 
necessity of the engine is not required to propel the water 
to reach the height of even their most lofty buildings. The 
lake is some 100 acres in area, and laves the feet of Baldy 
Mountain, in close contact with Mt. Garfield. These, with the 
ranges beyond that stretch toward Cripple Creek — all come into 
view from this lofty point that easily overtops their loftiest sum- 
mits. 

BEAR CREEK CANO^ 

bears down upon our base from the right, as its waters seek the 
bosom of Morain Lake. Being some 500 feet above the timber 
line, and 12,000 feet above the sea, one can readily apprehend 
the extent of our view, and how unobstructed the outlook, as 
we expatiate upon the expanse lying at our feet, and the Avealth 
of objects at our disposal to some of which we have already 
referred. A peculiar feature also was noted upon the imme- 
diate foreground at our left, and extending down to the timber 
line, as well as upon the bald heights above us to the very summit 
of the Peak ; and this was the immense mass of loose rocks appar- 
ently strewn in wild confusion over the entire surface, and yet 
in quantities too great to be considered as the mere debris ex- 
cavated from the road-bed. Tn marked contrast, however, upon 



The San Francisco Club. 355 



the flanks of Pike to the right, we notice a spread of vege- 
tation that extends down to the very brink of the canon. This 
is seen to be sufficiently luxuriant to graze a small herd of 
cattle upon, that a doughty herdsman, at a gallop upon his 
sure-footed steed is now rounding up, as if for our benefit. As 
it appears to be somewhat early in the day to corral the herd, 
we conclude that this improvised cow-boy was gyrating hither 
and thither simply to show off his horsemanship. Had his horse, 
however, fallen as he coursed down the declivity, the most en- 
thusiastic of us would not have wagered much of a risk upon 
his neck. 

Doubling Inspiration Point, we assay another stage of steep 
ascent to an additional altitude of some 1,000 feet, Avhere we 
reach another short level at which a siding and another water 
tank is located for occasions of emergency. Resting here for a 
few moments, the climb of the last stage is resumed, and after 
a vertical ascent of another 1,000 feet the summit is reached, 
amid a desolateness of contiguous rocks that disclose the same 
wild confusion of detached fragments like to those to wliich 
we have before adverted. The general appearance of these rocks, 
from a fresh-broken fragment, indicated the species as that 
of yellowish-brown micaceous granite — the same being dis- 
tributed over the entire surface of the summit of an area of some 
seventy acres. 




^ w M/ 
o o o 



356 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER XLVIII. 

SUMMIT OF PIKE'S PEAK. 

Alighting from the car, we ascend some six feet above the 
track to the area in front of the substantially-built stone build- 
ing of the United States Signal Station, and take our first view 
from the same of the lowlands to the south, from which we have 
just ascended. 

Though clad in our overcoats, the wind was so strong and 
piercing, that one in attempting to pass to the north of the 
building could, with difficulty, keep his feet, and ever and 
anon the shelter of the station-house was very grateful. Deter- 
mining, however, to brave the severity of the blast, in groups, 
•one and all of us pass out to the viewpoint of the Triangle, upon 
the extreme eastern edge of the summit plateau, from which 
point a sheer precipice of 4,000 feet descends to the shelving 
base upon that side. Seizing the rail with one hand, to pre- 
serve our equilibrium, we direct our gaze toward the lowlands 
beneath our feet, and thus poised the sublimity of the scene, 
with an accumulated intensity, breaks upon us. The force with 
which such a vision invests the whole being of the beholder can 
be but faintly conveyed in language. The first thought is the 
stupendousness of the field brought within the area of vision, one 
authority alleging it to be 40,000 square miles and another 
60,000. An impalpable haze rested upon the bounds of the 
distant horizon, that prevented the same from coming out in 
its sharp outlines, that, upon a clear day, no doubt, brings out 
a sweep of territory that goes far toward realizing one or the 
other of said reputed areas. Looking toward the extreme south, 
even the Raton Mountains of New Mexico come into view. Also, 
in close array, the Spanish Peaks, the Seven Lakes and the cities 
passed by the Special upon the previous day, after our leaving 
the Eoyal Gorge beyond Canon City. Colorado Springs, the 
Garden of the Gods and Manitou, lying just at our feet, appear 
like the colored divisions upon a map, so regular do their out- 



The San Francisco Club. 357 

lines appear. The peaks passed in our ascent are also seen, in 
their larger proportions and clearer outlines, that were not pos- 
sible from a nearer viewpoint. The same may ])e said also of 
the more distant peaks passed by us during the day previous, 
that vary in their distances from us from 50 to 150 miles, but 
can now be seen in their closer association to each other, as 
softened by their distance into more graceful outlines against 
the sky. Turning our eyes to the north, the continuous peaks 
of the Continental Divide beyond Denver, some seventy-five miles 
distant, are arrayed before us, and will, no doubt, come into 
sharper view later in our further journey northward. The 
continuous line of the bluffs to the east and the intervening 
broad lowlands, show them off at the greatest advantage, and 
thus unite from our viewpoint, in connection witli the mountain 
environment upon the other quarters, to account for the won- 
derful equable climate enjoyed by this section, under the re-en- 
forcing conditions of these high altitudes. And then, too, when 
considered, from a geological standpoint, that these elevations 
are all dikes, imagination runs riot in dwelling upon the stu- 
pendousness of the momentum of the forces that could eventuate 
in the production of such magnificent upheavals. We will not, 
however, attempt to enter into the history of their origin, but 
simply to indulge ad libitum in the intoxication of sight, while, 
at the same time, feeling profound sympathy for those of our 
friends of the Club that cannot enjoy such a privilege as is ours ; 
while we lament, at the same time, our inability to embody in 
language such a portrayal of the scene as may compensate, in 
a small measure, for their deprivation of attractions of such an 
inimitable scene. Again and again do we turn to repeat the 
view of the broad field, and indulge at large in the exquisite sen- 
sation excited in the mind by the realization of such a scene as 
is spread out before us — a feeling that, upon analysis, can be 
appreciated only when it is realized to be a fragment of the 
possession of Omnipresence — an attribute that belongs to Deity 
only. Since the fact is patent, that, to the Infinite Mind, the 
entire imiverse is spread out before Him and there held in close 
recognition, so is our sensation the same in kind, when such 



358 The Pilgrimage of 



a broad area as here lies before us is taken in by the eye; and 
the fact is demonstrable that the whole is imaged upon the 
retina thereof in all its sharp details — the most perfect photo- 
graph conceivable; and yet capable of being duplicated also in 
the case of many of the inferiors of God's creation, as shown 
in the broad area taken in by the eagle's eye, when he sweeps the 
blue empyrean. To that degree, therefore, we think, we may 
affirm that the prospect before us becomes part of our being, and 
that, too, when once beheld may never be banished from the 
tablet of memory so long as that attribute maintains the throne. 

Withdrawing, now, our gaze from the distant and intermediate 
view, the eye rushes down the curve of the massive dome toward 
the course of our ascent to the timber-line, and again we are 
led to wonder at the immense collection of loose rocks piled pell- 
mell upon each other, being unwilling to dismiss the question of 
the agency that left so many chips behind, without speculating 
somewhat upon the possible results of the finished masterpiece in 
the aeons of the future. To first, however, retrospect a little, 
it is said that the rocks environing the Morain Lake, as before 
referred to, show many marks of glacial action, but that the 
glacier ever scaled these heights, we doubt. ISTor have we learned 
that any such evidences have been discovered upon the exposed 
faces of any of these remains since the period of their escape 
from the crucibles of their fusion. 

But, upon reflection, we are reminded that we may not longer 
indulge in these speculations, and, therefore, we call a halt. 

Again withdrawing our attention from the foreground, we turn 
to inquire concerning the facts relating to the triangular balus- 
trade by the grasp of which we have been able to maintain our 
physical equilibrium against the fierce cutting wind long enough 
to obtain our aforesaid views, and, hence, it is but natural that 
Ave should now be led to inquire what this railing is specially 
intended to guard and commemorate. Looking within the en- 
closed area, we observe a triangular bronze plate, imbedded in the 
face of the native rock, and bearing upon its surface certain 
cabalistic or cr3^tic Insignia and inscriptions. 

Sir Knight Charles D. Weirick, of Lebanon, being of the 



The San Francisco Club. 359 

group composed of Mrs. Weirick, Sir Knight Charles V. Henry 
and Mrs. Henry, with which the writer visited the Triangle, and 
the first-named being an adept in cryptic symbolism, he took 
special note of the aforesaid. We are, therefore, indebted to him 
for the following data identified with the planting of this plate 
and the erection of tiie triangular railing guarding the same, 
the latter consisting of three upright brass columns, planted 
at points equidistant and connected terminally by piping of the 
same material. By this construction a permanent guard was 
secured to prevent encroachment upon the face of the plate to 
its injury by abrasion, and a good means of support afPorded 
to those leaning thereon while examining the plate. We have, 
therefore, the following data, as supplied by the said Sir Knight 
Weirick : 

HISTORY OF CRYPTIC PILGRIMAGE TO PIKE'S PEAK, 
COLORADO, AUGUST 6TH TO 13TH, 1899. 



Under auspices of Ellsworth Council, Xo. 9, Royal and Select 
Master Masons, Ellsworth, Kansas. 



Prepared by William M. Shaver, Grand Recorder of Grand Coun- 
cil of Kansas, and Past Grand Master of Grand Lodge, A. F. 
& A. M. of Kansas. 



Prepared under direction of the Grand Council of Kansas, and 
inserted in its published Proceedings of 1899. 



In jest the idea of this pilgrimage was born, because, on No- 
vember 22, 1898, when the Ellsworth Council was to confer the 
degrees on fifty-seven companions, they were prevented by a 
heavy snow storm, that swept over Kansas and prevented the 
Companions from reaching the place, and the Master then, in 
a joke, said: "Well, if the boys can't stand it to wade through 
this snow to get the Cryptic degrees, I'll take them out to Colo- 
rado next summer, and make them climb Pike's Peak for them.'* 



360 The Pilgrimage of 



The proposition was then taken up seriously and the newspapers 
further spread it until inquiries commenced to pour in from 
Atlantic to Pacific and requests to accompany the Pilgrimage 
from outside Kansas. The official endorsement and sanction of 
the General Grand Master of the General Grand Council of 
Eoyal and Select Masters of the United States of America; 
Grand Councils of Kansas and Colorado were obtained and dis- 
pensation granted and plans developed then to make the journey 
to Pike's Peak. 

The Council was opened in Ellsworth, Kan., then all entrained 
and the journey began, Sunday, August 6, 1899, with special 
trains of candidates and other distinguished craftsmen from other 
jurisdictions, arriving at Colorado Springs, Monday, August 7, 
1899, 9:30 A. M. At 11 A. M. of Wednesday, August 9, 1899 
(after two days of sight-seeing in Colorado), four trainloads 
of anxious Pilgrims started up the Pike's Peak Cog- Wheel Eail- 
road for the summit, in charge of Past Grand Officers of Kansas 
and upon reaching the summit, Ellsworth Council, No. 9, con- 
vened in Special Assembly in a perfectly tiled and safely guarded 
crypt in the stone building erected by the United States Govern- 
ment as a signal station on the summit of Pike's Peak, and here, 
14,147 feet above the level of the sea, beyond sight and sound 
of turmoil and strife of the busy world, on the rugged mass of 
chaotic granite, piercing above the fleecy clouds and bathed in 
the nearer glow of God's eternal sunshine, the Masonic light im- 
parted through those beautiful and impressive degrees of Eoyal, 
Select and Super-Excellent Master were communicated to a large 
class of previously-elected Companions. This occasion and that 
of the day following undoubtedly marked the most ambitious at- 
tempt ever made by Masons to meet on high hills for Masonic 
labor, and at this time and place the mystic trowel was used in 
the conferring of Masonic degrees at the highest altitude on the 
face of this globe where Masons ever sought to gather for such 
purpose. 

Next to the Assembly Chamber, the special point of interest 
upon the summit to Pilgrims was "Cryptic Eock," already pre- 
pared to receive the bronze casket designed to hold the memorial 



The San Francisco Club. 361 



deposit for its century of rest. This "rock" is on the highest 
point, overlooking the so-called Bottomless Pit, with its sheer 
descent of 4,000 feet. Top of rock practically level, aboiit ten 
feet in diameter and of irregular size. A deep oblong opening 
had been cut to receive casket, and the face of rock had been 
further recessed to receive the triangular bronze covering plate, 
for which sockets had also been cut to hold the anchors. Every 
Pilgrim religiously visited the cryptic rock and examined the 
preparations visible for the reception of the deposit with great 
interest. 

As the summit of Pike's Peak is United States Government 
Eeservation, authority had been procured from the proper De- 
partment of the Government for the placing upon it of this 
Memorial Deposit. 

On the afternoon of the same day, upon return to Manitou, 
an Assembly of Ellsworth Council was held in the Garden of 
the Gods, and the degrees were conferred upon a class of can- 
didates who did not desire to make the trip to the summit of 
the Peak, three more days of sight-seeing in Colorado and then, 
on Saturday evening, August 12, 1899, the ceremonies closed by 
a banquet of Ellsworth Council to 400 guests at Hotel Windsor, 
in Denver, Col. 

There were deposited in the casket, as follows: Seventeen 
distinct articles, including Book of Law, Masonic Square and 
Compass, History of Cryptic Masonry, copies of Proceedings of 
Grand Councils of United States, Kansas and Colorado, History 
of Ellsworth Council, photographs of Grand Officers, History of 
Colorado Pilgrimage, complete List of Pilgrims, roster of those 
initiated, copies of official itinerary, invitations, programs, Den- 
ver and other daily papers, three phials containing Kansas corn, 
wine and oil. Keystone with mark on, copy of triangular plate 
of gold, Masonic trowel and United States flag. 

THE DEPOSIT OF CASKET AND PLATE. 

The casket which contains the deposit was specially made of 
polished brass, 10 inches long by 8 inches wide and deep, cover 
made as not to be entirely removed, and after deposit made^ 



562 



The Pilgrimage of 



casket closed, sealed and brazed, so that it is as one solid sheet 
of brass. 

The plate is solid cast bronze, in form an equilateral triangle, 
two feet on each side. It is over two inches thick, and at each 
corner a heavy anchor, three inches long and one and one-half 
inches in diameter is cast. The inscription and characters are 
cast in bold relief, and the face polished, the background being 
stippled. 

The accompanying illustration shows the inscription and de- 
sign of the plate : 



Deposited 

August 11th 

A. D. 1899-A. Sep. 2988 

by 

Ellsworth Council, No. 9, 

Ellsworth, Kansas. 

Edward W. Wellington, Th. 111. M. 



H 



Under sanction of the Grand Council of Colorado, John Humph- 
reys, M. 111. Grand Master, and the Grand Council of the United 
States, Bradford Nichol, M. P. General Grand Master. Assisted by 
Grand Council of Kansas, Thorp B. Jennings, M. 111. Grand Master. 
To be restored to the Craft after one hundred years have elapsed. 



The San Francisco Club. 363 



After examining the plate to our entire satisfaction, the group 
arranged themselves around the balustrade to receive, by request, 
the full charge of Sir Weirick's camera, directed point blank 
into our very faces, that he might thus paralyze us into helpless 
inaction, even though we were already so exposed to the pitiless 
blast to the evident disturbance of our equilibrium and sur- 
charged with the esoteric mysteries of cabalistic lore. Condon- 
ing, however, the palpable evidence of his malice aforethought, 
we consented to allow him to practice his marksmanship upon us 
upon the promise exacted that he would do so no more thence- 
forth and forever. The sequel proving that our facial expres- 
sions were not permanently disfigured, we threaded our way back 
through the jagged boulders to the Signal House, where the 
said Sir Knight made a similar attack upon another impro- 
vised group, but as the writer was not included in this latter 
assemblage the snapshooter cannot be accused of having violated 
his pledge in so doing. 

The stilted platform of observation surmounting the square 
walls of the Hotel Annex of the Signal building, although more 
elevated than the site of the Cryptic Triangle aforesaid, is never- 
theless so exposed to the chill winds that few of the Club mounted 
to the upper platform of the same, being satisfied with the terra 
firma view at the disposal of anybody in front of the buildings. 

It will be recalled that the erection of this Signal Station — 
the most lofty as to its site in America — was originally built in 
our Centennial year, but was replaced by the present more com- 
modious one in the year 1882. under the direction of General 
Hazen, Chief Signal Officer of the Corps. Owing, therefore, to 
the prevalent chilliness elsewhere, we found it quite agreeable 
to step ever and anon into the same to enjoy its warmth, and 
also to examine the curios that here, too, are displayed — another 
evidence of the ubiquity of these tradesmen in preceding the 
most ambitious pathfinder in his efforts to visit the regions of the 
unexplored, and pre-empting its most attractive souvenirs. Like 
the footpad, his shibboleth is "Stand and deliver," and, therefore, 
no ground is left for parleying. 

We may not, however, longer linger upon these heights, even 



364 The. Pilgrimage of 



though no other be so attractive, when so many other points await 
our inspection at the base of the now doubly endeared spot — the 
most lofty above the sea that we have ever heretofore set foot 
upon. 

In passing, it may be well to refer briefly to our general ex- 
emption from any of the depressing effects of the rarefied air 
that is sometimes experienced at these altitudes by those of torpid 
heart action. In our individual case, our experience was ex- 
hilarating rather than depressing, probably on account of the 
exceeding purity of the air and normal heart action, even though 
the barometer stands, on the summit, at 17 inches and water 
boils at 184 degrees Fahrenheit. 

In the case of one of the toiirists ascending with us, a young 
lady, not of our Club, exhibited marked signs of depression in 
a death-like pallor of face, as if she were upon the verge of a 
collapse. Making, therefore, no further stop upon the summit, 
but descending by return car, it is probable that she rallied 
from the depression, as we heard nothing to the contrary after 
our descent, one and a half hours later. 

Taking, therefore, after this interval, the next return car, 
we review the outlook from the opposite standpoint, and, there- 
fore, find the descent even too expeditious — the one and a 
half hours being rapidly consumed and our landing at the base 
terminus consummated without accident or fatigue. 




vi/ W \l> 
o o o 



The San Francisco Club. 365 



CHAPTER XLIX. 

ENVIRONS OF MANITOU. 

Now that we are in Manitou, that time may be expedited, our 
company divide themselves into groups to visit the numerous 
points of interest, of the environs by routes that thitherward 
diverge — all of which, if possible, it is resolved to inspect in 
turn. 

No special order of procedure can, therefore, be maintained, 
though the majority by carriage, buss, or fiery burro turn first 
toward the Garden of the Gods. Sir Knight Henry and Mrs. 
H., with the writer, patronize a driver, apparently more intelli- 
gent than some of the dolts on hand, and, therefore, we are 
leisurely trundled over the well-kept road that circles about the 
hillocks, and penetrates every quarter of interest in the rock- 
renowned garden. 

THE GAEDEN OF THE GODS. 

The distance being two and a half miles, and the hour of the 
day most inviting, we soon reach the bounds of the Garden, 
and pass through the immense buttressed gateway — whose rock- 
portals of 330 feet high, with bases that sweep backward for 
the eighth of a mile, give promise of performing their duty 
for ages yet to come, though mute to announce when that func- 
tion began. The little central pyramid that, at a distance, 
seems to occupy the central background of ingress is simply the 
ever-present gate-keeper that waves the visitor to his left — the 
road beyond making the natural detour around the contiguous 
portal base into the open beyond. The detached mass of the 

BALANCED EOCK, 

some seventy-five feet high, standing in an apparent tilted posi- 
tion upon a ridge by the roadside, some five or more feet above 
the level of the latter, appears as if ready to roll into the de- 
pression beyond, and, being of a weight aggregating hundreds 



3G6 The Pilgrimage of 



of tons, the instinctive feeling seizes one to congratulate him- 
self that the trend is not toward the roadway. The upper half 
presents the appearance of a hugh hood, or half burr, with its 
sharply defined lower rim enclosing the half of a nut-like en- 
closure — the burr of the lower half having disappeared. This 
shape of the rock would disclose, that the lower half, being of 
a more friable texture than the upper, has yielded more readily 
to erosion, and, therefore, in time, as the process continues, 
the lower section must waste more or less rapidly under like 
conditions, until the line of gravity falls without the base, to 
the final overthrow of the interesting phenomenon. But we will 
not take further time to draw up specifications as to when this 
catastrophe shall transpire. 

THE THREE GRACES. 

Leaving this ponderous form, the Three Graces, varying in 
height from 50 to 100 feet, in affectionate proximity to each 
other, arise upon our right and disclose, in their structure, the 
same composition of the prevailing type of these rock forma- 
tions, viz, that of reddish stratified sandstone, or sedimentary 
deposit that, in their original condition of loose sand, in the 
form of comminuted quartz (intermingled frequently with 
other mineral forms), was first precipitated to the bottom of 
some inland sea. The deposit then being continuous for long 
periods, became ultimately indurated and compacted by pres- 
sure of the superincumbent mass into rock texture of finer and 
coarser-grained stone, according to the size of the constituent 
grains. This solidifying process of pressure is often aided by 
the cementing action of the infiltration of calcareous silicious 
or ferriginous matter, which imparts the color to the mass — 
the latter being the cement that, in the case of these rocks, im- 
]:)arts the reddish brown color that here prevails. In those cases, 
where subjected to intense or continuous metamorphic action, 
the sandstone piisses into (piartzite of greater or less refractory 
nature, and, therefore, we have the friable portions solvable, and 
the remainrler resisting erosive action when exposed thereto. 
But not at the bottom of the inland sea were these deposits per- 



The San Francisco Club. 367 



mitted to rest, but under the action of the metamorphic sub- 
terranean forces these deposits, by violent upheaval, were ele- 
vated from their horizontal bed to their vertical position, as 
shown in this example of the Graces, and thereupon the de- 
nuding forces began to put in their work. Thus, the friable 
matter having been removed, the refractory centres still stand 
to defy a while longer the leveling processes. The appearance 
of the surrounding soil shows how, in the periods of the past, 
the aforesaid agencies have leveled the environs of these cliff- 
like formations that admit of the deduction that the same laws 
continue to operate that have wrought out the canons of the 
vicinity, though the dike formation of Old Pike laughs in his 
stony glee at the realization of a like prophecy upon his more 
obdurate flanks. 

CATHEDRAL SPIEES. 

But not alone do the Three Graces stand as if mistresses of 
the plain, but in near proximity do the Cathedral Spires and 
minarets more or less complete in their sterner and more grace- 
ful forms show similar cleavages of separation from their sup- 
porting neighbors, presenting alike their vertical strata and 
opening seams of greater or less amplitude, as the contest goes 
on that will ultimately conquer, and thus furnish a counterpart 
to the poets simile that — "Love, like death, levels all ranks and 
lays the shepherd's reed beside the sceptre." So, too. Old Pike, 
though now wearing the sceptre, must, in time, give way to the 
less imperious implements of peace S3^mbolized by the shepherd's 
reed or the "cock's shrill clarion." 

And, just beyond, upon the outer limits of the Cathedral group 
— duplicates in position to the portal-rocks of the entrance, 
stand as opposite twins that are, as yet, of pyramidal form, but, 
in their deep vertical fissures, show, nevertheless, that their 
proud flanks are being wasted, even though their summits seem 
not as yet to have attracted the full onslaught of the hostile 
forces that feed upon their broad shoulders. Under the fore- 
cast of their doom also, we pass on without a word of denial of 
what we see to be the inevitable. 



)68 The Pilgrimage of 



THE BEAR AXD THE SEAL. 

And now we approach closer to the massive background, 
with its fantastic configurations on summit and flanks, that 
have given specific names to complete forms and profiles. Upon 
the apex, we note the reliefs known as the Bear and the Seal — 
the former posing upon his haunches, ready to seize the seal, 
whose flippers rest upon the ledge, immediately in front of the 
bear, and it's tail resting upon the rim of a lower ledge — the 
daylight appearing between and below the extremities of the 
seal, and, at the same time, showing the complete tapering of 
the body and the perfection of the imitation. Other summit 
profiles adjoin, showing hooded and uncovered heads, and mantle 
enwrapped forms that give variety to the interesting pieces of 
statuary. Bands of gypsum also striate the deposit, and, lying 
just beyond the aforesaid group, another one is encountered, 

GYPSUM PYEAMID, 

whose formation is of this mineral entirely, and, therefore, con- 
trasts strongly with the dark red sandstone of its neighbors. 
We have, therefore, in this mineral substance another key to the 
formations of this region — gypsum being a sulphate of lime, 
and, therefore, shows in its combination the modifying effect of 
volcanic agencies upon organic matter, and how closely associated 
the sedimentary and metamorphic rocks were in the evolution 
of these unique developments. While, therefore, we admire the 
more advanced results in the granitic forms of Pike and his 
peers of the realm, we may not be forgetful that beauty and en- 
tertainment attaches to these transition periods that afl'ord 
such fruitful themes, in their connection with these phenomena 
of the lowlands, while intending no disparagement to the subject- 
matter of the higher altitudes. 

The specific samples that we saw of the said gypsum cliffs, 
in the form of souvenirs, carved upon the spot, seemed to be 
specimens of impure selenite, they appearing too cloudy to be 
pure, and not finely fibrous enough or sufficiently opalescent to 
be identified with satin spar. Nor could it be called alabaster, 



The San Francisco Club. 369 



even though capable of considerable finish, as shown in these 
aforesaid samples. Finer strata, however, may be discovered 
later by deeper cutting into the mass beyond the influence of infil- 
tration. It will be recalled that this substance is used as a substi- 
tute for plaster of Paris in agriculture, which latter has the same 
basis. 

TOAD, HOUND'S HEAD, ETC. 

From this point we start upon our return, though by a some- 
what dift'erent route, upon which other bizarre forms are 
pointed out by our driver, such as the Toad, Hound's Head, Old 
Man's Wine Cellar, Washer Woman at work, the Lion and hu- 
man profiles in outline more or less complete. 

MAJOR DOMO. 

The columns of Major Domo and his attendant host arrayed 
in their ranks at an "attention," lie farther to the north than 
the Garden proper, being considered to be a part of Glen Eyrie, 
and, therefore, as the group is generally seen in connection with 
that locality, they naturally belong to that part of the pro- 
grram. 




4/ W \l/ 
o o o 



24 



370 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER L. 

TEMPLE DRIVE. 

Returning thereupon to Manitou, horse, rider and vehicles 
are turned upon the course of the Temple Drive, so-called, that 
traverses the trend of Williams' Canon for a distance of some 
two miles. The first section of the way is overshadowed by walls 
of from 100 to 500 feet high. Having passed over the more 
or less level section, the second makes an ascent along the face 
of the west wall at a gentle grade — the road here being hewn 
out of the solid rock. As we pass the specialties of the Canon, 
the Temple, Cathedral, etc., come into view. In the 

NARROWS 

we have, in reduced dimensions, the portal rocks of the Royal 
Gorge — the opposite walls here approaching each other and af- 
fording an interval of but eight feet — this being the point of 
ingress to the wonderful canon that extends beyond for a dis- 
tance of some five miles into the very heart of the mountainous 
region. The convergence of the walls to, and their divergence 
from, this point is gradual but persistent, and apparently final 
(as approached from below), but is only found to be otherwise 
when actually reached. Hence, standing with the fissure at our 
rear, we look out through the wedge-shaped lower section of the 
gorge toward the lowlands and mountain horizon line in the 
background, whence the view is most enrapturing. At one's 
feet lies Manitou, like a jewel in the mountain bezel that, in 
its varicolored embossed environment, finds a befitting mounting 
— a proper setting for the diadem of the everlasting hills that 
here Join hands to encircle the brow of the occupant of Colo- 
rado's throne. Our present viewpoint grasps the Jewel; while 
the heights of Old Pike appropriate the diadem in all its glories, 
as irradiated by the flashes from the centre of light, compared 
with which the emanations from the facets of the Kohinoor are 
but the sheen of the glow-worm. 



The San Francisco Club. 371 

CAVE OF THE WINDS. 

But not yet is the program exhausted, but from the beauties 
of the external world we are invited to pass throiigh the en- 
trance into the Cave of the Winds, and to explore the no less 
attractive aisles that penetrate the Carbonate Mountain to the 
distance of three-fourths of a mile. The cave is illuminated 
by magnesium light that, by the intense brilliancy, brings out 
to perfection the translucent qualities of column, stalactite and 
stalagmite of carbonate of lime, still in process of formation — 
the more crystalline forms of less magnitude being enlivened by 
the prismatic hues, that in myriad reflections transform the 
scene into successive galleries of beauty, and in their diverse 
aspects have conferred upon them the names of Canopy Hall, 
Boston and Chicago avenues, the Vestibule, Old Maids' Kitchen, 
Bridal Chamber, Curtain and Diamond Halls, and Crystal 
Palace. The prominent features of the three last-named make 
special impression upon the beholder, as experienced, for in- 
stance, in gazing upon the beautiful fluted drapery of the im- 
mense Curtain of the Hall, so-called, that, in its translucency, 
appears as if wrought of choice silken alabaster, and yet so grace- 
fully hung as to illustrate the name suggested. 

THE DIAMOND HALL, 

in its dimensions of 90 feet long, 12 high and 6 in breadth, dis- 
plays, upon its embossed walls, the rich varieties of pendant fes- 
toons of leaf and flower and corruscating wreaths, that catch 
the limpid light and return, in diamond showers, the varicolored 
flashes that confers the name upon the apartment. 

CEYSTAL PALACE 

divides with Diamond Hall in its elegance of appointments. 
The percolation of the water through the superincumbent mass 
of limestone, it is readily recalled, becoming surcharged with 
carbonic acid gas, and in its subsequent exposure to the open 
air of the cave, being evaporated ; the residuum carbonate is de- 
posited upon the pendant points of the ceiling, and then to 
these, in turn, is added another increment, until, icicle-like, the 



373 The Pilgrimage of 



pendant either reaches the floor, or, being meanwhile robbed of 
a portion of its deposits by the continuous descending drops, the 
increments adhere to the floor and a growth upward is com- 
menced, as in the case of the stalactite, which is downward — 
the lower growth being designated as a stalagmite, and in the 
event of this growth continuing, the opposing growths meet, 
and thereafter a columnar growth is perpetuated, as seen in all 
their stages of development in one or more of these subterranean 
halls. In the Crystal Palace, however, the deposits are so in- 
finitesimally small that they continue more or less in solution in 
its humid air, and thus are more widely difl^used over ceiling and 
walls, and thereby is generated the alabaster veneering and 
film-like pendants of varying lengths and configurations that, 
like so many prisms, reflect the chaste illuminants, and thereby 
are transformed into rosettes and flower-like bosses in which the 
light runs riot, to the delight of the beholder and the despair of 
the decorator. 

Realizing the helplessness of language to enter upon a like 
verbal abandon of animated simile and glowing periods in the 
effort to reproduce in counterpart the impalpable dreams of 
these subterranean chambers, the scribe may well be pardoned 
in acknowledging his despair of being able to dip his pen into a 
receptacle of a like inspiration in competition with the limner 
of light. Who here has wrought His masterpieces. 

With these visions haunting the optic chambers of the mind, 
let us depart — the climax of reflections having been reached, 
at least so far as artificial light may be utilized to imitate the 
original illuminant of the upper chambers of the sky. 

GLEN EYRIE, 

as before mentioned, in connection with the Garden of the Gods, 
next claims the attention of those of the Club not yet satisfied 
with the grotesque in column, form and color of Nature's ma- 
sonry. The most noted of these pink-tinted sandstone pillars are 
the Cathedral Rocks, Major Domo, The Sisters, Vulcan's Anvil 
and Melrose Abbey, that, in turn, prolong the reveries of the 
geologist and the landscape painter. 



The San Francisco Club. 373 

THE UTE PASS. 

Returning, again, to Manitou, the Ute Pass next comes in for 
consideration. Suggestive by name of aboriginal associations 
and identified thereby with the Ute tribe of Indians, it is 
known that in the earlier days of the Republic this pass was one 
of their trails to the plains and to the Manitou Springs. The 
name of the locality signifies Big Medicine, and is expressive 
of the estimate of the healing qualities of the waters among the 
"Children of the Forest." The famous Ute Iron Springs, and 
the hotel of the same name, are located within easy reach of the 
Pass. Without further loss of time, the Grand Caverns of Mani- 
tou, supplemental to those of the Cave of the Winds, are reached 
by the pass, and include a number of chambers of like carbonate 
formation and arranged in separate but unconnected groups, 
where stalactitic formations of varied lengths, shapes and posi- 
tions give names to the respective caverns. The Rotunda, Opera 
House, Natural Bridge, Gaudaloupe Dome and Concert Hall, 
with its pipes of stalactites, that not only resemble in form, 
but also somewhat of musical scale in tone under the stroke 
of the expert guide, who mounts to the organ loft to reach the 
imaginary key-board of the rock-wrought instrument towering 
thirty feet above the floor. 

To the sojourner of an indefinite time the attraction of Man- 
itou Park, twenty miles beyond, are said to be well worth a visit 
of exploration. Here, the enthusiasts of camp life are said to 
find their desires met in the fullest degree by the diversions of 
hunting, fishing and hotel lounging. 

CRYSTAL PARK, 

four miles to the south, and at an elevation of 1,500 feet above 
Manitou, is the terminus of a beautiful drive and the site of 
extensive outlooks. From this point Cameron Cone, that tow- 
ers to a height above 10,000 feet, is seen at its best. 

RED CANON. 

Had time admitted, no doubt many of the Club would have 
visited Red Canon, that is situated some three miles southeast- 



374 The Pilgrimage of 



ward from Manitou, and is considered in its vermilion-tinted 
rocks to be a good counterpart to the specialties of the Garden 
of the Gods. These brilliant tints, in strong contrast with tlie 
evergreen surroundings, are said to present a most pleasing effect 
in the multitude of objects of interest, that in this locality divide 
the attention of the tourist public. 

THE MESA EOAD, 

also, is said to be, .as a drive, superior to the Temple Drive, 
already referred to from the fact of its being out in the open, 
and located upon the summit of an elevated plateau, that, level 
as a floor, stretches for some three miles or more toward the 
northeast, without an obstruction to disturb the comfort of the 
sight-seer in his transit over the same. Standing out, thus, in 
the open, clear of obstructing environs, the views in all directions 
are pronounced by those of the Club who traversed the same to 
be in kind unexcelled. 

The Garden of the Gods lies in the course thereto, about mid- 
way between Manitou and the Mesa Eoad, and, therefore, within 
easy reach also of Glen Eyrie, which really lies at the foot of 
the bluff, upon whose summit the road is located — thus adding 
another element to the unparalleled roster of wonders to be 
found within easy reach of Manitou, the centre, as some of the 
Club testified who participated in its luxuries, as their final 
experience upon their last return to Colorado Springs. Those 
of us, however, that followed a different program, preferred to 
give our last hour to Manitou itself, before returning to our point 
of departure of the morning. 

MANITOU, THE CENTEE. 

Indirectly, we have already spoken of Manitou in connec- 
tion with the beauty of its location and the sublimity of its en- 
vironment of mountain, plain, isolated cliff and verdure-crowned 
hillocks, and its almost innumerable canons, with their varieties 
of form and striking features of grandeur. While these char- 
acteristics conspire to ultimate a climax of attractions unequalled 
in their concentration upon a limited area by any other would-be 



The San Francisco Club. '37'5 



rival in the same line, it possesses additional natural attractions 
that co-operate to make the centre something more than that of 
a mere duplicate of the Saratoga of the East. In the dryness 
and equability of its climate during the entire year, expert 
medical authorities have proven that it far excels that of any 
other pleasure and health resort, either of the Old or New 
World, when based upon the extremes of summer and winter 
as a standard. In the summer the cool breezes from the moun- 
tains reduce and preserve the temperature at such an agreeable 
average as permits of free movement at all hours of the day, 
while conserving, at the same time, the conditions requisite for 
refreshing sleep — two normal qualifications of health in the 
case both of the pleasure-seeker and the invalid. 

In winter the temperature is maintained at such a high aver- 
age, varying but from 60° to 75° for several hours of the day— 
a fact so patent that picknicking parties gather at will at the 
centres of recreation in the town, and frequently also wander 
out into the glens and canons that are within such easy reach. 
While snow is a perennial occupant of the heights within the con- 
stant range of vision, its visitations to this lower plain is so light 
in quantity and so infrequent in time that it is soon dissipated 
under the warm sun, that not only rapidly melts the fall, but, 
at the same time, is constant to counteract the severe tests that 
are so formidable to weakened physiques, that, under like cir- 
cumstances in our eastern climes, are so frequently attended with 
permanent adverse results. 

Then, too, as a valuable auxiliary to the same result, the great 
altitude of the site, some 6,300 feet above the sea, aids in re- 
ducing the liability to colds that prevails at this season in lower 
altitudes — this fact being also a valuable specific against the 
malarial and epidemic conditions to which the latter regions are 
so subject; and, indeed, we may say, perennially so. Therefore, 
to the healthy, immunity against sickness and unfailing sources 
of enjoyment are factors here ever to be banked upon; while, 
to the more or less invalided, these specifics conspire to tone the 
wasted energies and lay anew the constitutional foundation that 
is the prime prerequisite against the final inroads of disease. 



376 The Pilgrimage of 



The altitude of Manitou being also some 300 feet above that of 
its neighbor — Colorado Springs, six miles distant, in consequence 
of its warmer winters and cooler summers, possesses advantages 
not possessed by the latter, while at the same time the prestige 
of Colorado Springs confers upon Manitou, metropolitan attrac- 
tions that are attainable only at popular centres — facts that are 
contributory to the interests of each. And, moreover, that these 
sanitary and tourist attractions may be within the reach of the 
public, it is obvious that the facilities for the entertainment of 
those that may seek the locality should be equal to the demands 
of all such. Therefore, from the standpoint of hostelries, it is 
a fact now well-known, from what we saw and others testified to, 
that the locality is not only well, but even luxuriantly equipped. 

HOTELS. 

Among the hotels, therefore, the following names recur as open 
to permanent or transient patronage, viz, Cliff, Iron Springs, 
Barker, Mansion, Sunnyside, Euxton and other smaller ones, 
with cottages of neat environs amid beautiful homes of the resi- 
dent populace. 

If, however, the aforementioned advantages exhausted the 
schedule of particulars that could be advanced in support of 
Manitou's claims in the regards aforementioned, then, perhaps, 
other points that we have spoken of in the Pilgrimage might 
come into competition therewith. When, however, we enter upon 
the specification of the medicinal springs, some eight or more 
in number, that dispense their imstinted blessings within the 
corporation limits, both in the quality and variety of the bill 
of fare, the credentials are complete and nothing more is left to 
be coveted by either the chronic globe-trotter or the most exacting 
valetudinarian. 



The San Francisco Club. 377 



CHAPTER LI. 

THE MINERAL SPRINGS. 

In the very heart of Manitou, we have both soda and iron 
springs, having their respective individual merits as well as 
those of combined virtues. Taking the most prominent of 
those noted for their higher and lower percentages of carbonates, 
sulphates, chlorates, silicates and other mineral traces — it is 
seen that the Navajo is an easy first in all the aforementioned 
constituents, except that of iron — containing, in the aggregate, 
25 grains of solids to the pint of water — the carbonates of soda 
and magnesia constitute two-thirds of the whole — the remaining 
ingredients being those of lime, lithia, silica and sulphate of 
potash. 

The Iron Springs and Little Chief have the monopoly of iron 
— the former aggregating 19.75 and the latter 15 grains to the 
pint, while both abound perceptibly in soda and lime. 

The Manitou Springs come next, with 18.2, and Shoshone, 
with 7 grains of the last-aforementioned constituents to the 
pint. 

Therefore, with such elements of choice at hand, and an in- 
telligent diagnosis easily procurable from the medical fraternity, 
whom we have always with us, the subject need not long delay, 
but, in effect, become immediately so exhilarated by his pota- 
tions, that, like one of old, "he may rejoice as a strong man to 
run a race." 

Or, recalling the effect of the waters of Glenwood as so ef- 
ficacious, in the law language of Sir Knight Macklin, in ma- 
turing on draft "an ill-tempered wife into an angel;" in like 
manner may the enthusiastic supporter of the claims of Manitou 
Springs declare, that he dispenses with the necessity of the 
probationary state of the angelic nature, and, therefore, passes 
over instanter his subject into the seraphic state. It is true 
that we did not instinctively recognize many such in our per- 



378 The Pilgrimage of 

ambulations about Manitou. but so many members of the Club 
accompanied Sir Knight Macklin to Cripple Creek, among whom 
was the wife of the writer, it is inferred that he corralled all the 
candidates for the degree of seraph-hood to bear him company 
thitherward, and, therefore, our contingent at the Springs may 
have to be satisfied to cultivate awhile longer the amenities of 
this terrestrial sphere, even though we be required to tarry 
indefinitely in this locality to quaff, in due measure, of the elixir 
of Manitou. 

THE BETUEN. 

At this juncture, the Pike's Peak contingent thought it best 
to return to Colorado Springs to greet the arrival of the afore- 
said Seraphic Cripples. We did so, and upon their relating at 
large, what they were free to say, that we were deprived of by 
not having been with them, we were satisfied to infer that the}' 
would not have been content with our, to them, tame experi- 
ences. We, therefore, were eager to receive their report, that 
we, the orphans of the Club, might thereby, in a measure, find 
compensation for what we had lost. We are, therefore, indebted 
to the companion of the writer for the following, that we will 
accept as the contribution of that contingent of the Club, and 
permit the same to speak for itself. We have, therefore, the fol- 
lowing : 

CRIPPLE CREEK RECITAL. 

The section of the Club that chose to visit Cripple Creek, 
instead of braving the difficulties of Pike's Peak, left Colorado 
Springs about 9 o'clock A. M., for the mushroom city of the 
gold-mining region. In a brief space of time after leaving 
the station, we enter a region of surpassing loveliness, beautified 
by all the varieties of canon and gorge, mountain peak and pass, 
valley and vale, a continuous panorama of scenic wonders. 
Leaving Colorado Springs, at an altitude of 6,000 feet above 
the sea, we immediately begin the ascent of the circuitous route 
leading to the place of our destination. As we leave the lower 
level, upon our right may be seen the towering pinnacles of the 



The San Francisco Club. 379 

Garden of the Gods, Colorado City and Manitou Springs. Cross- 
ing Bear Creek Canon, its romantic beauties are revealed to our 
now wondering gaze. Gradually th.e scene further unfolds and 
widens, as we continue to rise, and now Point Sublime comes 
into view at the altitude of 1,200 above the level of the sta- 
tion left but a few minutes before. Below us now is the famous 
North Cheyenne Canon, with its never-to-be-forgotten features. 
The charming suburbs of Broadmoor, with its conspicuous Cres- 
cent Lake, lies at our very feet, while Colorado Springs is in 
full view, with its special attractions; and, fading away into 
the uncertain horizon, stretch the rolling plains of the low- 
lands, bespangled here and there with lakes glistening in the 
sunlight. Continuing our course around the edge of the walls 
encircling Xorth Cheyenne Canon, we see, upon our right, the 
sparkling downpour of Silver Cascade, issuing from a point 
hundreds of feet above our heads. Xow, we reach Fairview, at 
which place we note the "confluence of the North and South 
Cheyenne Canons, whose stupendous gorges" afford pictures of 
"scenic grandeur that have become famous the world over." 
Having the advantage of a viewpoint of both canons from above, 
that is impossil)le of attainment at any point below (even by 
threading the courses of the canons), the advantage cannot 
be too highly appreciated of our present altitule. 

ST. PETEE'S DOME. 

Passing beyond, St. Peter's Dome next looms up, upon our 
right. "The ascent of this granite sentinel, guarding an en- 
trance to Soutli Cheyenne Canon, is a marvel of engineering 
skill and a wonder of the twenitth century. It seems impossible 
that the track seen upon the opposite side of the canon, hun- 
dreds of feet above our heads, should be the path we are to 
follow, but after a few turns, almost imperceptible (so smooth 
is the road-bed), we look down on the place we have passed with 
equal wonder. Ever and anon as we climb, and glory succeeds 
to glory, vista to vista, canon to canon, in ever changing and 
constant charms of vision, the matchless view of Colorado 
Springs and the environing plains is unfolded before the en- 



380 The Pilgrimage of 



raptured gaze. All description is baffled ! There is nothing 
like it in the world. The view from the top of the dome is 
said to be the finest in Colorado." 

DUFFIELD 

is next reached, at a point eighteen miles distant from our 
starting point — the climb having now reached, in altitude, up- 
wards of 9,000 feet above the sea. After a further ascent of 
three miles, the summit of the range is reached, at a still greater 
altitude of 10,000 feet, at which point the summit is scaled 
by the train. From this height, one of the most sublime of 
views gladdens the eye of indescribable canons and mountain 
peaks without number. To the south, Pueblo, the manufactur- 
ing centre of the State, is seen, forty-five miles away — the city 
through whose suburbs we passed during the previous night on 
the route to Colorado Springs. 

THE DESCENT 

of the opposite side of the mountain is now commenced, and 
Eosemont, "The Magnificent," comes upon the scene, with its 
bewitching mountain park, surrounded and guarded by the 
monopoly of the region — a mountain environment. 

Previous to the experiences of the day, we had passed over 
many loops of railway track, but in this descent the climax 
seemed to be reached in the fact that as many as four views 
of the track are visible at one time, one above the other, that 
we must traverse, as we leap over torrents, plunge through wood- 
land preserves and twist around mountain spurs in our serpen- 
tine course to our last stopping place. 

CATHEDEAL PAEK. 

At th(? station of Clyde, the so-called Cathedral Park pre- 
sents its fantastic features to the visitor. To quote another, we 
have the vision of "rocks, torn by tempest and eroded by the winds 
of a thousand years, that here rear their heads in all manner of 
grotesque shapes. Towers there are, and steeples innumerable. 



The San Francisco Club. 381 

flying buttresses and vaulted caves, leaping arches and the forms 
of mighty buildings, crowding each other in wild disorder." 

We are not, however, permitted to long indulge in the com- 
parisons here suggested, but soon have evidences that we are 
approaching the mining region of our final destination. 

Passing Cameron station, from which point branch lines lead 
away through other duplicate mountain regions of elevation and 
grandeur, that we must turn our backs upon, we soon reach 
Cripple Creek, that, owing to its connection with the wonderful 
gold production of the region, stands unrivalel in the world's 
history, when considered in relation to its limited area. The 
reported production of this precious metal from the time of its 
first successful mining, during a period of some thirteen years, 
have been upwards of $142,000,000 — the production of the year 
1903 being about $22,000,000. 

CEIPPLE CEEEK AS A TOWN. 

Alighting from the train, we walked through the town, upon 
the main street, and saw a number of substantial buildings, 
many of which were built of brick, with many other evidences 
of permanent improvements that are said to contrast strongly 
with the crude beginnings of but little more than a decade of 
years ago. Having thus spent the greater part of an hour in 
thus taking in the town, we were satisfied to return to Colorado 
Springs, particularly since many of us were desirous of visiting 
points in near locality thereto, before the closing hours of the 
day would bar further possibilities in the line of sight-seeing. 

The glories of the return-trip more than intensified the ex- 
periences of the morning, for the reason, if no other, that even 
the same objects were seen from an opposite viewpoint, in addi- 
tion to other fields of view that a different visual angle made 
possible. But even under these circumstances we realized that 
a number of trips over the same route would not exhaust the 
possibilities of outlook and, therefore, the opportunities in this 
line of the resident contingent of the locality were almost 
to be envied. The return was safely made, and our intention 
to direct our explorations to another field of observation was real- 
ized without delay. 



382 The Pilgrimage of 



The Cripple Creek contingent, having in squads, groups and 
couples, departed to visit the scenes that the Pike's Peak party 
had explored during the morning (the Peak excepted), the 
latter, upon wishing the said contingent bon voya-ge, scattered 
through the city and in other directions, to utilize the leisure 
yet at their disposal before the late "call to dinner" should close 
the program of the day. The writer being desirous of seeing 
something of Cheyenne Canon and the environs of Broadmoor 
Hotel and Stratton Park, which are located some four and a 
half miles from the city, concluded to do so at this juncture 
Taking the rapid-transit trolley, we soon reached the hotel, and 
the lakes and park in close touch to the same. We wandered at 
will around the first-named ; among the herd of burros and their 
drivers, awaiting the patronage of those desiring to explore the 
canon and points beyond ; along the borders of the lakes that mir- 
rored the peaks and monarch trees of the glen, and threaded 
our way upon the devious paths of the park to the elevated 
plateau beyond, that overtops the plane of the prattling Chey- 
enne Creek, that had just escaped from the cascades of the 
canon. Upon consulting our time-piece, we found the hour to 
be too late to admit of our pushing our way into the upper 
reaches of the glen, that we might pass between the Columns 
of Hercules, that guard the pass into the South Canon ; and, 
thence, mount the long staircase that borders the Seven Falls. 
These are so named because of the seven successive leaps, cov- 
ering the declivity of 234 feet, to the top of which said stair- 
case leads and near which lie the last remains of the gifted 
Helen Hunt Jackson, who loved so well to revel in the scenes of 
this mountain locality, and with facile pen to transfer their in- 
exhaustible beauties to the glowing page. It was, therefore, 
with an effort that we turned away, imder the consciousness that 
we were so near, and yet so far, "from the spot replete with so 
many sacred associations." Leaving the park at our rear, we 
next traversed the plateau by direct course to the pavilion that 
marks the terminus of the south branch of the trolley line, by 
which we came to this locality. 



The San Francisco Club. 383 



THE PAVILIO?^ OUTLOOK. 

The next ear not being yet in sight, we have still some time 
at our disposal to take in the superb view afforded from the ob- 
servation platl'onn of the pavilion of the precipitous heights, 
some half mile to our south, that flank the aforementioned pil- 
lars. In scanning these peaks closely, we discovered among 
them Ijelow the line of the horizon, one that exhibited the most 
positive marks of l)eing the crater of an extinct volcano. The 
blackened walls and the vitrified concave of the surface of the cir- 
cular opening was as perfect in formation and appearance as 
that of an abandoned cupola or shaft-furnace, broken away, 
fortunately, upon its rim upon the side next to the observer, 
and, therefore, furnished ample evidence in support of our 
belief that the same was the shaft of an extinct crater. The as- 
cent to the base of the shaft-like cupola, while at a considerable 
incline for the supposed distance of a half mile, did not appear 
to be too precipitous to be climbed by the aid of a stout Alpen- 
stock, and, therefore, had the hour been earlier in the day, we 
would have been strongly moved to have made the attempt to 
scale the same to the verge of the crater's brink. Our reveries, 
however, of "what might have been" were here cut short by 
the arrival of the car, and, therefore, in the mellow glow of the 
western reflections of the departing sun, we hied us back to the 
Springs, culling these latest flowers for their proper place among 
the forget-me-nots of these unparalleled mountain parterres. 

The clans having now all gathered at the rendezvous, and 
dinner having l)een disposed of, the Cripples and Pike's Peakers 
luiving all been lined up, the roll-call having disclosed the roster 
to be complete (none tarrying behind as at Ogden), the subse- 
(|iient silence of the sections of the Special reveals that all are 
content to be oblivious of the hour of departure for the political 
metropolis of the State, and so but few noted the issuance of the 
order "to pull out." 



384 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER LII. 

ON TO DENVER. 

Of the details of our approach to and our reception upon our 
arrival at the Capital City of Denver, we will call upon our 
friend and frater, Sir Knight Macklin, to give, as he was so 
intimately identified with that part of the program of our so- 
journ within its precincts. 

"We have now come up across the Divide, at Palmer Lake, to 
our next stop, Denver, the Queen City of the West, where we are 
to spend Wednesday. And it has been most profitably and en- 
joyably spent, one of the red letter days in our traveling experi- 
ences across the continent. One event in particular, being un- 
expected, was all the more appreciated. The following is its 
history. It was the result of a fortunate acquaintance with 
the mayor, R. W. Speer, on the part of the writer, who wrote 
him, requesting the privilege of introducing the members of our 
committee on our arrival at Denver. He replied, by letter, to 
San Francisco, that he would be pleased to meet our entire party 
at the City Hall, and further said he might make some changes 
in our plans for seeing Denver. Accordingly, on our arrival, 
Wednesday morning, seventy-five of our party went in a body to 
the City Hall, where we were the recipients of a most cordial 
and nevert-to-be-forgotten greeting from Mayor Speer and his 
estimable wife, in the mayor's office. 

"After a short time of social converse and of introductions^ the 
mayor led the procession to the street car line, where three special 
cars had been provided for seeing Denver, one being the private 
car of the president of the Tramway system, into which the 
Ladies were invited. The route took us over the busy sections 
of the city and through the magnificent residence districts. All 
points of interest were pointed out by the mayor, who was ably 
assisted by his brother and Messrs. Malone and Clark, while 
Mrs. Speer looked after the comfort and enjoyment of the Ladies. 



The San Francisco Clvb. 385 

After a delightful tour about the city, we made a run of ten 
miles across country to Grolden, "the original capital of Nevada," 
and here, in the shadow of a big brewery, a lunch of sandwiches 
and pretzels, and artesian water to drink, were served, after 
which Mr. E. S. Manning, Grand Master of Ceremonies, intro- 
duced Mr. W. H. Denlinger, of our party, who made a very 
fitting address of thanks to Mayor Speer for his generous enter- 
tainment, to which His Honor responded, saying that being him- 
self a Pennsylvanian, he was glad to be able to contribute some- 
thing to the enjoyment of his guests. It was undoubtedly a 
sacrifice of valuable time upon his part to be personally present 
with us for several hours, but that is the character of the man — 
never to be too busy as to be unable to be hospitable on a mag- 
nanimous scale when the occasion arises. He, although young 
in office, will, we feel assured, prove to be one of the best gov- 
ernors of the great city of Denver. Even now his political ene- 
mies rise up to do him honor and not one of them, however 
bitter his political animosity, has ever dared to impeach the 
personal integrity or private character of Mr. Speer. 

"We also greatly enjoyed the lecture on Colorado, and what 
she offers to settlers, delivered on the car in transit by Mr. Ma- 
lone, who is not only bright and intelligent, but exceedingly 
witty and humorous. He jollied us right along for three hours. 
Here are a few of Mr. Malone's witticisms: "This is the place 
where people come to find lungs and find them." "Pike's Peak 
was once a hole in the ground and I helped to fill it up." "You 
know that Pittsburg is Pennsylvania, and Pennsylvania is Pitts- 
burg, and further that Pittsburg air is not fit to breathe, even 
in the infernal regions, let alone in God's country of pure air 
and bright sunshine, such as we concoct for eastern people in 
Colorado." 

Mr. Malone also made some very good hits in his exposition of 
the declaration that the logical consequence of a high protective 
tariff supplied the foundation for the tyranny of the trusts, that 
have, under its fostering wing, been coddled and developed from 
the condition of so-called "infant industries" into the dimensions 
of unconscionable giants, whose sole function now appears to be 
25 



386 The Pilgrimage of 



to throttle honest competition anl thus perpetuate the regime 
of the "rich becoming richer, and the poor poorer," by the trans- 
ferrenee of the monopoly of wealth into the hands of an insig- 
nificant minority, who flaunt the cry of "prosperity" with as 
much energy as the criminal utters "stop thief," to divert pur- 
suit. No one attempted to controvert J\Ir. Malone in his gen- 
eral arraignment, but when the writer inquired concerning the 
status of the liquor trust, with which his party Joined hands as 
heartily as does the dominant party of the day, he was somewhat 
disconcerted. We thought the "what was sauce for the goose 
should also be sauce for the gander." Had Mr. Malone been as 
eloquent in his attacks upon the liquor trust monopoly, under the 
protection of license, in dictating its policy as the sine qua non 
upon l)oth the old political parties, we could better have Joined 
hands with him upon the majority of the issues that he raised. 
Since Denver, however, has gone to as great lengths, if not 
greater, than any other city of the land in granting the monopoly 
of license to the three monumentals evils of the day, we think 
that "Mr. Malone was somewhat inconsistent, both in the afore- 
said connection, as well as in boosting the attractions of his 
Capital City, while ignoring the fact that vice there, as well as 
elsewhere, flaunts its credentials in the face of the conservators 
of the best interests of society, and, therefore, of course, much 
less ofl'ered nothing to abate the protection thereof in its legalized 
regime. 

But to return to Mr. Machlin's closing observation in this 
connection as the general sentiment of all. "One cannot help 
admiring the optimism of the people of California and Colorado, 
their buoyancy and hopefulness, their energy and enthusiasm, 
their confidence in their country and its resources. And, as if 
the same optimism had seized the members of the Club, he adds 
that "Our party was delighted with Denver, and, as one Lady 
put it, Colorado is beautiful, and Denver is ideal." 

Having, by this means, taken in Denver and its environs by a 
broad view, the members of the Club, upon landing from the 
observation cars, resolved themselves into minor coteries to visit 
points of special interest that had attracted their attention in 



The San Francisco Club. 387 



passing upon the trolley line, or from what they had read of the 
wonderful development of a city of 175,000 inhabitants of to-day 
from that of less than fifty-eight pioneers that spent the winter 
of 1858-59 in their tents and humble cabins at that time erected, 
as a nucleus of what we now see before us — "the largest, richest 
and most beautiful city of its age on earth — a sparkling, costly 
jewel on the bosom of the at one time literal desert." 

In this connection, therefore, it may be well to quote the words 
of Governor Steel, at the banquet of the "Pioneers," of which 
he was a member, at Denver, September 13, 1883, the member- 
ship of which was composed of the settlers of Colorado previous 
to 1861. The Governor said : "1 landed in Denver on the 4th 
of May, 1859. There were nothing but tents and cabins about 
here. We had fought our way against the current that had 
turned back, who told us that the country was a ban-en land; 
that we would starve to death; that Green Kussel had not found 
anything, and that the reports we had heard were lies. We dared 
not oppose them, nor declare that we intended to go on to the 
end, because they were so determined not to allow anyone to 
sacrifice himself, as they called it, that they were ready to mob 
and hang us, if we did not yield. We had to steal aAvay from 
them in order to go on." 

Knowing, therefore, something of the crude beginnings of the 
city, the contrast of the same with the exhibit of the present was 
a matter of constant wonderment to the Club, as they peregri- 
nated from place to place — now exploring some of the apartment 
stores of Larimer street, that would do credit to our most popu- 
lous eastern cities; now stepping into some of the elegant 
churches, that lift their conspicuous spires toward heaven, and 
then, turning to view the loftiest dome of them all, the Capitol 
(and what it overshadows), with its dimensions, in length 295 
feet, exclusive of portico or steps; its depth at the centre being 
some 190 feet, and its height 325 feet, one-third higher than 
Bunker Hill Monument. The dome is surmounted by a statue 
of Colorado. Erected at a cost of $1,000,000, one may form 
some idea of the amount of material required for its construc- 
tion. Among these items we find the estimate, in round num- 



388 The Pilgrimage of 



bers, "one thousand car loads of cut stone, eleven million brick 
and four million pounds of iron. The roof is covered with half- 
inch slate, fastened by brass screws and bedded in concrete. 
Every window is of plate glass, and the interior is finished in 
hard wood." 

Upon this basis of foundation facts, with an inspection of the 
finished building, we find an ideal structure of wealth and cul- 
ture, that, in their specific forms, are in most befitting accord 
with their environs, that are in abundant evidence upon the 
avenues that embrace the area of some three acres, dominated by 
this noble structure that compels the notice of the tourist, as well 
as of the citizen. 

Leaving the street, therefore, from the side of the main en- 
trance, we mount the broad steps to the plateau of the site 
proper, and, ascending another flight therefrom, we are ushered 
into the rotunda of massive but attractive proportions. A fur- 
ther ascent by magnificent stairways (or elevators, as preference 
may be), access is attained to the handsome legislative halls of 
the Senate and House of Eepresentatives, with their elaborate 
appointments. Thence, a further ascent is attained into the 
capacious dome and lantern porticos surmounting the same, that, 
in their outlook, give one of the most superb views attainable in 
the State from the structures of men. The one view alone, after 
exhausting the exquisite buildings and ornamental grounds of the 
city at our feet, of the mountain range bounding the western 
horizon, is well worth the time consumed in making the ascent. 
Therefore, looking westward, the lofty sentinel of Long's Peak, 
guarding the approach from the right, and Pike's Peak upon 
the extreme left, with the intermediate peaks of the snowy ranges, 
afford a continuous view of 150 miles that defies the highest 
genius of the brush or pencil to delineate, or the most gifted in 
language to describe. 

Having, at length, in a measure, explored the building in the 
time at our disposal, we descend, and take our exit from the 
side opposite to that of our entrance, and thereby improve our 
opportunity of traversing the perfectly kept lawns and tree em- 
bowered pathways of the Capitol Park. Seating ourselves for 



The San Francisco Club. 389 



a while, we seize the surface details as we apprehend the fact 
that the miracles in wood and stone, and the embellishments of 
art have here found illustrations that the tourist and connois- 
seur cannot fail to appreciate and carry away as creations beau- 
tifully ravishing as dreams, while, at the same time, as realistic 
as the eternal hills that smile upon them in the offing. 

TABOE GRAND OPERA HOUSE. 

Space will not admit of a detailed description of the Tabor 
Grand Opera House, with its imposing frontage of 325 feet on 
Curtis and 125 feet on Sixteenth street, a noble specimen of the 
Queen Anne style of architecture, wi'ought of Golden pressed 
brick and Manitou white sandstone trimmings, and surmounted 
by three towers — that of the grand tower, occupying the corner, 
heing 150 feet high. Its attractive facades, with their ornate 
stone balconies and windows in twin and triple order, impress 
the beholder with most favorable considerations and lasting 
memories. 

THE HOTELS. 

Among the hostelries of the city, the Windsor is considered 
pre-eminent, and was erected at a cost of some $350,000. Oc- 
cupying a site nearly equal in area to that of the said opera 
house, and five stories in height, ample space is afforded for its 
225 rooms, single or en suite, that, in conjunction with its public 
accessories, furnish to its management means for the accommo- 
dation of a large allotment of the approximate half-million of 
guests that enjoy yearly permanent and transient apartments 
within the limits of the city. 

The additional public buildings and utilities of the city are of 
proportionate finish and amplitude of detail to meet the demands 
of their respective departments. 

THE EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS. 

Of the educational institutions of the city, a more than pass- 
ing notice is well worthy of consideration. The High School 



390 The Pilgrimage of 



building, consisting of a centre and two wings, occupies the 
middle of an entire block, that was presented by the United 
States Government to the City of Denver for the erection thereon 
of such a building. A detailed examination of the same, with 
its complete appliances, sanctions the boast of the educational 
system that it will "challenge comparison with any high school 
building in the United States." These facts were so patent that 
even in the early decades of the city's development the system 
was made a subject of special examination by the late Dr. John 
D. Philbrick, for many years the noted superintendent of Boston 
schools, and one of the most experienced and reliable educators 
of the country. After a recent visit to Denver, in this con- 
nection, he reported that "The result may be summed up by say- 
ing that I found the Denver school system to be admirable in all 
respects. Although its origin dates back but some two or more 
decades, its development has been so wisely and energetically con- 
ducted that it fairly belongs to the front rank of city systems. 
It is pretty safe to say that the creation of a system of schools 
upon so large a scale, of such exceptional merits, and in so brief 
a space of time, is a phenomenon to which the history of educa- 
tion affords no parallel." 

While dwelling upon these educational features within easy 
reach of our central point of observation some of us felt an 
additional impulse to visit and take in as much as possible from 
a cursory standpoint the site and appointments of the University, 
that is located some four or more miles distant from the centre 
of the city. Taking, therefore, a car at a point near the 
Capitol, wo passed through the suburbs of the city in a direction 
opposite to that traversed in our morning tour to Golden, and, 
therefore, enjoyed an enhanced view of the capabilities of the 
expansion of the city in that direction. Upon our arrival at the 
grounds, we saw, in passing, that the main building of the Uni- 
versity had been completed and utilized, while occupying a con- 
spicuous site upon the summit of a ridge of considerable eleva- 
tion above the level of the roadway, and surrounded by an ample 
stretch of campus grounds. The capabilities of the site for 
further architectural improvements were very perceptible at 



The San Francisco Club. 391 



sight and showed the wisdom and foresight of the projectors 
and management of the enterprise by this selection of location ; 
and, no doubt, in consideration of the immense wealth and liber- 
ality of the constituency centered in this region, that the Uni- 
versity will be handsomely endowed from time to time, and thus 
be enabled to extend the facilities for such a comprehensive 
course of study in time as will equal that of the older institu- 
tions of the East. 




<i/ W M/ 
o o o 



39*2 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER LIII. 

KETUKN TO DENVER. 

Returning to Denver, as the sun was casting its last lingering 
rays upon the landscape, we had the glories of the closing day 
spread out before us painted in their most attractive garb, as so 
frequently illustrated in our late experiences under conditions 
that are duplicated only in these western climes, and, therefore, 
we may enjoy the associations of the locality as painted in their 
most attractive garb. 

Arriving, therefore, at the Special as "The curfew tolls the 
knell of parting day," we find the clans gathering thitherward 
from their different routes of inspection, ready to discuss the 
merits of the dinner menu — an attack upon which was already 
in progress by the members of the first arrivals. The attrac- 
tions, however, of the sections are quite agreeable to many foot- 
sore Knights and Ladies, while awaiting their turn to complete 
the roster of the epicurean contingent. 

Moreover, in view of the fact that the bulletin announces the 
hour of the departure of the Special for the East at 10 P. M., 
the opportunity of "seeing Denver" under electric illumination 
was a matter to be enjoyed if possible, and, therefore, not to be 
discarded without an intelligent thought pro or con. Besides, 
the escort of the Club during the morning tour had proposed, 
upon our separation therefrom, at high noon, to conduct the Sir 
Knights, that were so desirous, to see the attractions of this wide- 
open city under the electric glare, and thereby demonstrate to 
them whethor or not the promise of the day in the magnificent 
appointments of church edifice and educational institution was 
realized in the exponents of the night. 

That is, by way of explanation, it may be in order to say, that 
while the alleged slow cities of the East have not yet grown to 
be sufficiently progressive as to be solicitous to carry the law of 
licensed protection to a stage further advanced than as said 



The San Francisco Club. 393 



protection extends to the liquor traffic, it had been stated to us 
that Denver had carried the principle to its logical sequence 
in the licensing also of the vice of gambling and of the propa- 
gators of the social evil, upon the fallacious assumption, that 
what cannot be annihilated simply by legal enactment should 
be allowed to pay a tax to the State or municipality for the privi- 
lege of plying its trade even though that privilege be in viola- 
tion of the highest assumptions of law, Divine and human. The 
standard of virtue being once determined by the pecuniary price 
paid, immunity to punishment is cancelled thereby, and the 
question of guilt is transferred from the realm of moral obliga- 
tion to the sphere of moral indifference, in which the failure to 
pay a specified sum of money entails punishment under a new 
code of ethics, and, therefore, to the overthrow of the moral 
code heretofore based upon the law of reciprocity, as affected by 
our relations to God, the Common Father of all, and the co- 
equality of His creatures before Him in the realm of natural 
rights. The idea that an act is criminal upon its failure to 
pay a stipulated price in money for its perpetration, works to 
the confusion of moral standards and the ultimate universal 
demoralization of both the lawmaker and the subject of govern- 
ment. Hence, we have, in this city, the field of operation of the 
tax standard and the object lessons thereon afforded, "to point 
the moral and adorn the tale,"' in all its native vigor and prac- 
tical results. 

ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE THEORY. 

The writer joined the delegation that visited some of the li- 
censed gambling dens, where roulette, faro, poker and other 
popular methods of gambling were open to the patrons of that 
vice; and while in one of said dens he saw some hundreds of 
dollars change hands. It was noted that the majority of the 
patrons, from their dress, appeared to be day laborers, though 
others were manifestly attaches of the counting-room. The ages 
of the paticipants varied from the years of early manhood to 
to those of more mature life. The fascination of the game, and 
the eagerness with which all the participants watched the turn of 



394 The Pilgrimage of 



the card or the index of the wheel showed the grip that the 
passion had upon its victim, and the gradual displacement 
thereby of the noblest sentiments of the heart by the greed of 
unhallowed gains. The defenders of the system argue that 
men will gamble at all events ; and, therefore, let the State have 
a part of the price of manhood ; upon the same ground, that the 
money of the inebriate is filched, it being affirmed that men 
will indulge to intoxication, even under the fiat of prohibition. 
The fallacy, as well as iniquity of the proclamation of such 
measures being a means of restriction, is seen in the fact that 
the "restriction does not restrict" by abating the evils of indul- 
gence, but, upon the contrary, measures the same in inverse ratio 
to the burden of the restriction, and the consequent demands for 
the modification of the law; or a defiance of its provisions by 
illicit traffic. As a pertinent example, in this connection, of the 
effect of the legalization of gambling, the statute enacted in 
Nevada restricting gambling to the second story of the licensed 
building (as in the case of Denver), in practice proved to be but 
an inconvenience to the practice of the vice, and not a method 
of extinguishment (as originally affirmed), and, hence, the 
demand for the repeal of the restrictions. And, as already fore- 
shadowed, the fallacy of the restriction being proven, the de- 
mand has been recognized, and since our transit over the said 
State, the legislature of the same, by a vote of twenty-three 
to thirteen, have displaced the statute by a measure that makes 
Nevada, in effect, once more a wide open State, as of yore. 
But what Nevada has so recently done by modified restrictions 
and increase of license fee, may just as readily be done in 
Colorado ; and the endless chain be still further forged that "re- 
striction does not restrict." And, strange as it may seem, by the 
advocacy of a misnomer, the majority of the said legislators 
of Nevada, that swept away the aforesaid restriction, were elected 
upon what was published, far and wide, as the "reform ticket," 
pledged to suppress this very crime of gambling and its twin 
iniquity of the liquor traffic, by restrictive legislation. It is 
thus seen, by the natural history of progressive approach, that 
by the widening of the sphere of the so-called restriction, as 



'The San Francisco Club. 395 



applied to the second vice of gambling, the way is paved for 
the third step in legislative crime, viz, by licensing the social 
evil upon the ground that since prohibitory law cannot annihi- 
late it, therefore, a revenue should be framed tlierefrom. 

FURTHER EXPLORATIONS. 

Having, at length, exhausted the novelties of the gambling 
apartments, the delegation accepted the proposition of their 
guides to view the practical advertisement of the third experi- 
ment in legislation, as shown in connection with the social evil. 
Here, however, the writer called a personal halt upon himself, 
and expressed a disinclination to go any farther in the line of 
vicious inspection. He was informed, however, by those that 
were posted, that the first restriction of the said evil regarded 
the residential locality, and that the media of advertisement did 
not perambulate the streets at will, but that, in regalia afore- 
thought, they were objects of observation within their respective 
domicils at the open windows thereof, environed by all the at- 
tractions that conspire, as in the case of the saloon, to invest in 
the garb of respectability, that which, if deprived of its legal 
protection, would descend to its true status, and be relegated in 
the initiative to its appropriate doom, and not be permitted, as 
here, under the glamour of subsidized attractions, to drag down 
those that otherwise, in the absence of such blandishments, would 
revolt, as so graphically and truthfully put by the poet, that 

"Vice is a monster of such frightful mien. 
That to be hated, needs but to be seen ; 
Yet seen too oft, familiar with her face. 
We first endure, then pity, then embrace." 

It may be objected by the hyper-critical, that the chronicler 
should be induced to animadvert upon these suggested subjects 
and their natural inferences ; but when it is remembered that he 
only is the true biographer, who indites the failures, as well 
as the triumphs of his hero, so it may be affirmed that a true 
transcript of passing experiences is essential to the integrity 
of the diary, if the avoidance of the ex parte statement is to be 



396 The Pilgrimage of 



maintained. Therefore, while we have sought to do justice to 
the beauties of art and nature in a territory so replete with at- 
tractions and the wide opportunities for a career pre-eminent 
for its moral and intellectual development, it becomes, at the 
same time, the part of the reviewer to note the danger ahead, 
and to protest against the unchecked evolution of those agencies 
whose natural sequence is but a reversion of these fair lands 
to the condition of a moral desert, more desolate than the 
primeval physical waste that here once prevailed, to the almost 
universal despair of the tourist and the would-be permanent 
settler. 

But the hour of our departure from these environs comes on 
apace, and, upon retracing our footsteps, we find that we are 
among the earliest arrivals at the Special, with our complements 
of incidents in store and our faces set eastward, to greet, with 
the arrival of the morrow, the scenes of pastoral and agricultural 
life that next succeed to the wilder visions of these more sublime 
and imposing upper altitudes, as the Powers that effectuate the 
denouement may decide for weal or for woe. 

AWAY FOE KANSAS. 

The morning of Thursday found us far beyond the bounds of 
Colorado, moving by a sustained flight over the plains of Kansas 
— now amid a long succession of grassy lands, and thence equally 
broad fields of agricultural thrift — in turn traversing the en- 
virons of smiling villages, and into contact with the larger popu- 
lar centres — features, all, that under other circumstances could 
but receive their full meed of appreciation; but now we may 
ask upon what ground could Kansas come into competition with 
the unique and richer visual aptitudes of the lands that revel 
unforbidden in the native glories of the Setting Sun? It has 
been advised that those that would be prepared to enjoy to the 
full each successive view, from the dike-enclosed lands of the 
Netherlands, to the climax of Alpine sublimity, should first do 
so by way of the Castled Ehine. To reverse the program, how- 
ever, it is alleged tends to relegate the most imposing attractions 
of the latter to the realm of the commonplace. Hence, to pass, in 



The San Francisco Club. 397 



turn, into Kansas, when duly wrought upon by the imperishable 
memories of the Rockies, could but have a depressing, rather 
than opposite effect. In the event, however, that our course 
had been that of the sun, then Kansas, no doubt, would have ap- 
peared more alluring to the view, and wrought an appetizing 
effect in preparing us for the ultramarine of the Occident. We 
will, therefore, we hope, be pardoned, if we do not enthuse over 
the broad views revealed from the section windows, or observa- 
tion platform,, as the cultured fields of waving corn, or 

"The lowing herds that wind slowly o'er the lea," 

pass in review, but yet fail to awaken an indulgence in those 
bucolic notes upon which the pastoral bard is wont so much to 
dwell. 

A DIVERSION. 

And, now that the circumstances of the situation have given 
a respite from the exacting scenes of the outer world, oppor- 
tunity is afforded for a review of the experiences of the itinerary, 
and a conscious appreciation of the fact that the realization of 
its guarantees had been so marked in every respect. Similar 
thoughts also coursed through the minds of others of the Club, 
as was revealed by a comparison of views; and the unanimity 
of sentiment was so widespread in this regard, that the idea of 
giving some expression to the thought appeared to be so appro- 
priate that the proposition was made to formulate something 
in this line that would be of material import. It was, there- 
fore, proposed, as a matter due the Committee of Arrange- 
ments, that some testimonial of these facts should be recognized 
by embodying the sentiments of the Club in expression of their 
appreciation of the untiring zeal and wise forethought that 
said committee had shown throughout the course of the entire 
Pilgrimage, to meet their sense of obligation in the premises, and 
thus to contribute to the comfort and pleasure of all. It was, 
therefore, informally suggested that each car should designate a 
representative to constitute a committee empowered to draw up 
a series of resolutions, embodying the known views of the mem- 



398 The Pilgrimage of 



hers of the Club in the aforesaid connection. This suggestion 
liaving been responded to, the following representatives met and 
organized, viz: J. A. Knight, A. H. Ege, W. H. Patterson, \V. 
H. Denlinger, John F. Heinitsh, Grant Weidman, Jr., and 
liobert S. Gutelius. 

I'pon motion, Sir Knight J. A. Knight was made Chairman, 
;ind A. H. Ege, Secretary. 

After due consideration of the matter in hand, the Secretary 
was instructed to prepare a series of resolutions, for ratification 
at a subsequent call of the committee later in the day. The Sec- 
]-etary having complied with his instructions, the Committee 
again came together, and the draft, as prepared, was submitted. 
Upon approval, the same was duly accepted, and, upon vote, the 
Secretary was empowered to have the resolutions engrossed in 
such form as his taste might suggest, for subsequent submission 
to the Committee as a whole, that copies of the same might be 
distributed to the members of the Club as a souvenir of the 
Pilgrimage, when the same shall have passed into history. The 
Secretary having accepted the suggestion, the Committee ad- 
journed to meet again at the call of the chairman. 

THE THREAD RESUMED. 

The later hours of the afternoon found us within the suburbs 
of Topeka, where we made a stop of some thirty minutes. From 
our point of observation, we could not form even a passing idea 
of the city, as only the cupolas and domes of the public buildings 
appeared above the tree-tops bordering the vale in which the 
station is located. Being again on the wing, we arrived at 
Kansas City at about 8 :30 P. M., where we had a further stop of 
about a half hour ; but, owing to the uncertainty of the time at 
which we would be ordered to pull out, we could not leave the 
well-lighted station building, to catch even a passing view of 
the thoroughfares of the city, even though seen in near prox- 
imity, under the radiance of the electric illumination. Never- 
theless, the occasion was happily improved by some of the mem- 
bers of the Club in meeting with friends that, upon notice, im- 
parted were on hand to greet them. To many of the rest of 



The San Francisco Club. 399 

us, like reminiscences at the different stages of the Pilgrimage, 
recurred that were sources of much pleasure b}' the way; and, 
therefore, were occasions to again be adverted to hereafter, as 
the present occasion will, no doubt, prove to be the happy 
subjects of these greetings. 

"All aboard," however, interrupted a further indulgence in 
these amenities, and, hence, upon leaving this station, the Club 
must now be content to shut themselves in from the further at- 
tractions of the outer world, with the full expectation that the 
further greeting of the light will be within the environs of the 
Exposition City. 




o o o 



400 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER LIV. 

ST. LOUIS. 

The early hours of Friday, September 16th, ushered the Spe- 
cial into the great Union Station, fully recuperated by our rest 
of the night to do justice to the program of the day. Breakfast 
being despatched, the members of the Club leave the station in 
a body, under the marshalship of Em. Sir Lewis E. Beitler, as 
per arrangement, being piloted to a less crowded place of ren- 
dezvous. A suitable place and background having been at length 
selected for the purpose of photographing the entire body, before 
the possible separation therefrom of individual members in their 
wandering according to their respective inclinations, the word 
was given that all were "on deck." Sir Beitler having loaded 
his camera to the muzzle, and leveled the same with his usual 
sang froid. he discharged the full contents thereof point blank 
into our faces, with the announced result later of a desired col- 
lision. 

An examination of the portfolio of views caught at eligible in- 
tervals during the route of the Pilgrimage, will disclose the 
result of this special fusilade. In passing, however, we venture 
the statement that all appreciated the sequel of the said final 
attack, and are ready to ascribe the very best of motives to this 
one of the chief gunners of the expedition. 

ON THE WING. 

But now the program of go-as-you-please becomes, by agree- 
ment, the order of the day, and, therefore, the Club disintegrates 
into its constituent affinities; though the objective point of the 
major part of the groups is the Exposition Grounds. The writer, 
however, having accepted the commission imposed upon him as 
Secretary of the aforementioned Committee on Eesolutions, now 
concluded to spend the balance of the morning in hunting for a 
competent job printer to tastefully engross the said resolutions 
entrusted to him. Having, at length, found one such that ap- 



The San Francisco Club. 401 

peared competent to do the work, the Secretary gave his order, 
and forthwith, being desirous of improving at least a part of 
the day also, amid the miracles of art, in which the Club were 
already expatiating, he, too, took the trolley for the Exposition 
to initiate, at least, a personal line of investigation, that he 
might, later, compare notes with his more fortunate confrerees, 
tliat he had already secured a half day credited to their ad- 
vantage. Arriving, at length, at the railway side of the en- 
closure, the writer spent some time in exploring the neighbor- 
hood to discover, if possible. Pastime Park — the locality pre- 
viously announced as the place of our rendezvous at the close 
of the day, after our exit from the Exposition, at which place 
the Special was. in the meanwhile, to be shunted for our ac- 
commodation until our departure from the city. The sequel of 
the day proved the wisdom of our investigations. This task 
completed, upon the payment of our entrance fee and the revo- 
lution of the turn-pike, we were admitted within the enclosure 
of the colossal show, and were now at liberty to take our bear- 
ings. 

THE EXPOSITION. 

Being now the peer of any (upon the score of the said fee), 
it was but natural that we should first seek some point of ob- 
servation at which we could take in, at the best advantage, a 
coml)ined view of the groupings of the departments and other 
buildings, and their accessories, before attempting to enter upon 
the details. 

While it is admitted that this is not possible in full from a 
single ground standpoint, yet it may be approximately attained 
from some central position as a basis, and an intelligent point 
of departure for further exploration of the constituent parts of 
the picture, as opportunity is afforded. 

Passing, therefore, from the elaborately constructed Lindell 
Entrance, with the group of the German Tyrolean Alps, upon 
, the right; the Model City buildings, upon the left; thence be- 
yond the Closure and Music Pavilion, over the Plaza to the site 
of the Louisiana Purchase Monument, we are prepared to see 
26 



402 The Pilgrimage of 



the first, and, among the most attractive vistas of the Exposition 
Grounds. 

Standing, now, with the Palace of Varied Industries at our 
right, the Palace of ^Manufactures at our left, the Grand Lagoon 
approach to the Grand Basin and Cascades before us, separating 
farther on the Palace of Electricity, to the right, and that of 
Education and Social Economy upon the left, we begin to grasp 
the stupendousness, at least, of the plan and the superb evidences 
of its realization that now begin to burst upon our view. After 
feasting our eyes upon the prominent features of the broader 
outlook, we turn our attention to the right to note some of the 
specific details of architectural beauty, as shown in the Palace 
of Varied Industries, with the dome structures at its four angles, 
and the larger ones occupying the centres of the opposite side 
facades — each flanked by numerous min&ret-like spires, that, 
in conjunction with the aforesaid constitute the characteristic 
features of the building. Being an oblong square of the dimen- 
sions of 1,"200 feet by 525 feet, enclosing a large central court — 
the whole covering an area of some fourteen acres, and erected 
at a cost of $604,000, it is readily seen that its capabilities as 
an exhibit building far exceeded that of Paris, erected for like 
exhibits — tlie latter being of but one-half the size of that before 
us. The remaining details of exterior ornamentation in con- 
nection with the other features mentioned, are so elaborate that 
the Ijeholder is at once so impressed thereby that he is irresis- 
tibly led to conclude that, if the very threshold is so complete, 
then, indeed, he has entered a realm of artistic triumphs that 
he had never before conceived to have been possiljle. 

Then, turning to the left, the Palace of Manufactures, of the 
same dimensions as the aforesaid, that required some 10,000,000 
cubic feet of lumber for its construction, and entailing a cost of 
some $115,000, next demands attention. Hence, the question 
naturally arises — How can so large a space be utilized for the 
display even of many duplicates of what may be known as 
portable goods? An inspection, however, discloses the products 
of some 900 industries, included under the designation of Liberal 
Art ; or "what is known," in common parlance, as "pleasing to 



The San Francisco Club. 403 

the eye." It has been said that if one could enclose, under one 
roof, what is sold in an assemblage of the largest department 
stores of our eastern cities, including furniture, hardware, dry 
goods, men's furnishing, jewelry and all the variety of minor 
retail stores, one would have some idea of what is here upon 
exhibition. Volumes would, therefore, be needed to specialize 
even a moiety of this exhibit. 

Of one specialty, it may be well, however, to speak, that be- 
longs to this department, though on account of its bulk it be- 
came necessary to set it up elsewhere. This specialty is the 
Floral Clock, erected upon Agricultural Hill. It has a dial 
of 100 feet in diameter, the number indicating the hours are 
fifteen feet high and are made entirely of flowers. 

Xow, again returning to our point of observation, and noting 
specially the Palace of Electricity, with its continuous Corinthian 
columnar facades facing both the Grand Basin, and the main 
water approach thereto (before mentioned), we are immediately 
captivated thereby and moved to give its architectural beauties 
a more minute attention. Its massive corner domes, in general 
outline suggestive of the helmet of a cuirassier, and the beau- 
tifully proportioned projecting gables, occupying the centre of 
the facades, supported by twin columns upon each side of en- 
trance ways of the same order of architecture, complete the 
prominent features of the exterior. Passing through one of 
these stately entrances into the capacious building, it is readily 
admitted that not even a bird's-eye view can take in an appre- 
ciable portion of even its most prominent features. Having 
a floor space of some 750 feet by 525 feet, or an area of some 
seven acres, and erected at a cost of $415,000, its contents, by the 
very mention of the name of the building, in their variety and 
attractiveness, combine to make the palace, not only one of the 
most beautiful, but also most interesting of its rivals for public 
notice. Here we see illustrated the wonderous history of elec- 
trical devlopment, from its crudest beginnings to its latest tri- 
umphs of applied art. The latter would naturally claim the first 
attention in the department of the wireless and telephone ex- 
hibits. Here is exhibited a model of the largest wireless tele- 



404 The Pilgrimage of 



grapli station ever erected, and in practical working order. 
Also, wireless telephoning is in operation without metallic, sole- 
noir or other connections. Also acoustic instruments of a wide 
range are shown in immense quantities. Here, also, are given 
exhibitions of the working of the Cooper-Hewit vapor arc lamps, 
by which, at night, the Cascades are illuminated. 

Passing out from this building, at the end facing the Grand 
Basin, we obtain a nearer view of the stately Festival Hall, that 
crowns the elevation from whose middle front gushed forth the 
flow of waters that constitute the supply of the Cascades, and 
which affords such a superb site for the said main building, and 
the attractive pavilions that flank the same, that constitute the 
Terrace of States, representing the fourteen States and Terri- 
tories embraced in the Louisiana Purchase, and each illustrated 
by colossal allegorical statues, mounted upon pedestals in front 
of each section — the same being the work of the most eminent 
sculptors of America. 

A DIGRESSION. 

But now, before mounting to the heights of the Festival Hall 
plateau, to note the specific features disclosed from that stand- 
point, it may be well to revert to some of the facts that enabled 
the projectors of the Exposition to accomplish what is now at 
our disposal, as already foreshadowed in part, by what we have 
seen since our entrance upon the grounds. Therefore, in the 
extension of an invitation to the possible exhibitors and patron- 
izing people of the world to participate in the undertaking, an 
assurance had to be given to the same that, in this event, their 
confidence would not be misplaced, nor their money expended 
in vain. The selection, therefore, of an eligible site was es- 
sential, both in the area of ground offered and in its capabilities 
for utilization for the results sought to be attained, and that all 
objections thereto might successfully be anticipated. These and 
other considerations, that readily suggest themselves, were par- 
ticularly weighty, as also that the importance of the event in 
history hereby to be emphasized might be properly commem- 
orated, and the lessons derived therefrom be dulv transmitted to 



The San Francisco Club. 405 



posterity. It may, therefore, not be improper, at this stage, to 
recall some of the salient points of that history, that, under 
the inspiration thereof we may continue the thread of our ex- 
plorations. We beg leave, therefore, at this juncture, to quote a 
brief statement that embodies the subject-matter in clear and 
sententious terms, and, therefore, readily to be recalled when 
it may be desirable to revert in memory thereto, as we dwell upon 
the great object lesson here so successfully materialized. 

THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE. 

The Exposition commemorates the purchase, from France by 
the United States, in 1803, of the enormous territory reaching 
from the gulf coast of Louisiana to the southern boundary 
of the Canadian Dominion, and from the Mississippi Eiver to the 
crest of the Eock ]\lountains. The area purchased is 1,000,000 
square miles, equaling the extent of the thirteen original States 
of the Union, and from this dominion thus acquired there have 
been set apart fourteen States and Territories. Within these 
States and Territories is a present population of twenty millions, 
and a taxable wealth of untold millions more. The United 
States Government paid $15,000,000 for the territory — the pur- 
chase thereby made elevating this Government to an equal dig- 
nity politically and territorially with the first nations of the 
world. It was to commemorate the peaceful acquisition of this 
territory that the representatives of all the present States and 
Territories included in its boundaries, projected the Universal 
Exposition that has now opened its gates to the people of the 
world. St. Louis, the most central of the large cities of the 
United States, the commercial metropolis of the Louisiana Ter- 
ritory, the fourth city in the United States, with a population 
of 750,000, was unanimously selected as the place for the hold- 
ing of the Exposition. With characteristic energy, St. Louis 
and the State of Missouri promptly appropriated $11,000,000 
to the enterprise, which the United States Government supple- 
mented with appropriations aggregating some $7,000,000 addi- 
tional. With this princely sum as a nucleus, other States and 
countries speedily swelled the grand total to something in excess 



406 The Pilgrimage of 



of $50,000,000 — an amount unequalled in the history of the 
world for a civic demonstration and exhibition." 

jMoreover, the site selected was the available part of what it* 
known as Forest Park, that, in its natural features and acces- 
sibility, is one of the most eligible in the land and, therefore, 
combining more advantages and beauties than any ever before 
suggested as available for such purposes, and, therefore, prob- 
ably will never be excelled by any future attempts in this line. 
The area included in the enclosure is placed, in round numbers, 
at 1,240 acres, and is about one-third greater in length than in 
breadtli. Therefore, when compared with other preceding ex- 
positions, shows at much greater advantage than any of such. 
The Centennial embraced, according to the statistics, some 236 
acres ; the World's Columbian, 633 ; the Paris, of 1900, that of 
336, and the Pan-American, of Buffalo, some 300 acres. The 
area, therefore, comprised within the bounds of this Exposition 
is nearly as large as that of the said four combined. This excess 
of area, therefore, being so decided, it would naturally be in- 
ferred that the ground covered by the exhibit buildings would 
exceed those also of the Expositions before-mentioned. Upon a 
comparison this, too, is found to be the case, as may be readily 
shown. That is, those posted inform us that the "principal 
buildings at Chicago covered space of 4,500,000 square feet; 
those of Paris, 2,110,000 square feet, while those at St. Louis 
covered an area of 5,120,000 square feet — a single building at 
St. Louis containing more exhibit space than there was in the 
entire Pan-American Exhibition — the Agricultural Palace alone 
covering an area of twent3'-three acres." 

Tt has also been further stated by the same authority, that 
the plan of the S.t. I^ouis Exposition in utilizing and improving 
upon the plans of its predecessors, practically attains "perfec- 
tion." This was attainable from the fact that "the site, consist- 
ing of plain, valley, hills and forest uplands, gave full scope 
to the conception of the master-minds engaged in this triumph 
of landscape perspective and architectural possibilities." The 
design followed in the location of the eleven palaces, so-called, 
resembles that of a fan-like expansion. 



The San Francisco Club. 407 



CHAPTER LV. 

THE PLAN. 

But let us now ascend to the plateau of Festival Hall, and 
attempt to trace out, if possible, the details of the ideal plan. 
At our immediate feet the series of three cascades of seven falls 
each proceed from each of the basal fronts of the two pavilions 
at our right and left ; and the central one from the front of the 
terrace upon which we stand, all converging their courses into 
the Grand Basin, discharging, collectively, 90,000 gallons per 
minute, in preserving the constant flowing of the same, ere they 
debouche into the regularly enclosed water-ways, that constitute 
the central ribs of the fan, that take their courses right, left and 
centrally, towards those points of the Grand Basin, respectively 
in conformity therewith — the central complement into the Grand 
Lag'oon, that extends its beautiful sheet over the entire distance 
between the Palaces of Electricity and that of Education and 
Social Economy, until it joins the incoming waters of the right 
and left waterways aforementioned, that have, meanwhile, en- 
circled the said palaces — thus constituting an association of 
waters that all combine to render possible Elysian courses for the 
flying gondolas and like gay craft, that disport at will'over their 
glad surfaces. 

iSTow, extending our gaze still farther beyond, at our right, the 
National Buildings of Germany and its reservation, comes into 
view with its stately dome and solid basal structure — a reproduc- 
tion of the Charlottenburg Castle, the original of which the 
writer had the pleasure of visiting in the Fatherland. 

Next in order, beyond and bordering the contiguous waterway, 
as before stated, the Palace of Mines and Metallurgy appears, 
succeeded in close touch l)y the plat of the Sunken Garden, with 
its exquisite gems, and this, in turn, by the Palace of Liberal 
Arts, extending to its limits, in line with that of the Palace of 
]\Ianufactures upon the left of our first point of observation, upon 
our entrance to the grounds. 



408 The Pilgrimage of 



Now, in turn, directing our eyes to the left, beyond the free 
end of the left pavilion, the large reservation of Jerusalem cor- 
responds in location to the German Castle, upon the right, 
thence the Palace of Machinery, next in order, and the further 
extension of the Flower Beds and Peace Monuments, in close 
touch with the Palace of Transportation extending to its limits, 
corresponding with the aforesaid line upon the right. 

Again we turn our gaze to the right, towards the limits of the 
fan plan in that direction. Here, in order, the buildings of the 
Metal Pavilion, the United States Fisheries, the United States 
Government Exhibit buildings and reservation grounds, come 
duly into view. 

Again, turning to the left to similar limits, the buildings of 
Morocco, Japan, the Boiler House and the exhibit of the trip 
from ISTew York to the Xorth Pole, succeed each other. And, 
again still farther beyond, upon the next fan-rib the Live Stock 
Reservation, Palaces of Horticulture and Agriculture, the United 
States Life Saving Station, the buildings of Ceylon and Canada 
' — to be succeeded by the commodious buildings of France — 
paralleled by that of Forestry, Fish and Game. 

Again following a parallel tier, we have the Foreign Buildings 
of Mexico, Siam, Nicaragua and Brazil, followed by those of 
Great Britain, Belgium, Austria, Sweden and Russia. Then, 
in turn, the next tier beyond comprises the reservation of the 
non-Christian tribes, inclusive of the American Indians, in their 
native garb, and the natives of the Philippines, the Igorrotes, 
with their war implements in hand, or in their grotesque move- 
ments of the native dance, as contrasted with the Hairy Ainus 
of Japan, and the Patagonian Giants of the Ethnological Ex- 
hibit. In the same tier, next in order, we have the Anthropo- 
logical Exhibit — that of the United States Out-door Plant In- 
dustry — Nursery and group of Green-houses. 

The left limb of the "Fan" being now somewhat thoroughly 
explored, we next turn to the right for the last time, and 
there find an abundant field of observation in the variety of 
display that holds high carnival in the groups of the magnifi- 
cent State Buildings, that monopolize the horizon of that quar- 



27ie San Francisco Club. 409 



ter, and which, in part, will claim a hurried visit, at least, if not 
a special inspection of its most prominent structures before we 
put an estoppel upon our perambulations for the day. 

THE AUTOMOBILE. 

And, now that we are ready to descend for the time being 
from this, our present point of observation, it is suggested as 
proper to imitate the example of other members of tlie Clul), 
that have, with us, experienced like demands upon their muscular 
locomotion, that they should excuse us upon our confession that 
it is now our intention to direct our steps to the automobile sta- 
tion, that we may, from that point, indulge in a different mode 
of procedure in our explorations, and, therefore, substitute for 
our former means of sight-seeing, those of automatic motion, 
as afforded by the automobile, and thereby scurry over the 
asphalt pavements to take in a panoramic view, at least, of what 
the slower gait of said muscular locomotion finds it to be impos- 
sible of realization in the interval of time still at our disposal, 
as before stated. At all events, we shall enjoy the opportunity 
of seeing, at a closer range, some of the foreign buildings, to 
which reference has already been made in connection with the 
bird's-eye view disclosed from the plateau of Festival Hall. 
Therefore, after a rapid survey of the unparalleled rich archi- 
tectural effects of the exhibit palaces, the specific attractions 
of some of the Foreign Buildings are passed at a more leisure 
review. 

Therefore, what is more natural at this juncture than a pass- 
ing notice, at least, of the magnificent buildings of this depart- 
ment. 

THE FOEEIGN BUILDINGS. 

The first that attracts our attention, as already noted in the 
elaboration of the "Plan," is the ornate Pavilion of Canada, dis- 
tinguished by its chaste and ornamental porticoes, that surround 
the entire building, the same being surmounted by a continuous 
balustrade, whose triple series of balusters and interposed shields, 
separated by posts terminating in a four-gable design, consti- 



410 The Pilgrimage of 



tuting continuous pedestals for an equal number of flag-staffs — 
united to designate the style of the finials that terminate the 
corner supports of the building cornice, and adorn the upper 
horizontal of the same. 

The French Pavilion, with its captivating group of buildings, 
next commands the attention — the same being an exact copy of 
the Grand Trianon of Versailles, in a setting like the original 
grounds of that historic spot. The writer, having visited the 
original, near Paris, recognized, in this reproduction, some of the 
features of the latter, viz, the lofty iron fence fronting the en- 
closure, broken by the four iron-railed boxes that enclose the 
open wrought columns that guard the triple entrance to the 
equisite park that fronts the historic palace, and, while gazing 
upon this reproduction from the roadway, we imagined we could 
see the very window of the room from which the unhappy Marie 
Antoinette made her ineffective attempt to escape, and thus 
hastened the tragedy of October 16, 1793, that closed her career 
at the guillotine, her husband having met the same fate upon 
the previous 21st of January. Had time admitted, a stroll 
through its suggestive rooms would have amply repaid the labor 
of exploring those spacious apartments. The image of the 
whole is anew impressed upon our memory from this reproduc- 
tion, so happily conceived and so accurately carried out in the 
group before us. 

The British Building conveys a like lesson from the fact that 
it, too, is an exact reproduction of the Orangery of Kensington 
Palance, with its surrounding garden of a 300-years' existence, 
in all its beauty of original ornamental plats and luxuriant front- 
age contiguous to the palace, and historically identified by the 
ownership of William III, George I, George II and the Duke of 
Sussex. This palace is a plain, irregular structure, like the orig- 
inal (which is of brick), and was the birthplace of Queen Vic- 
toria. This building, too, is recalled by a visit to the spot by 
the writer some score of years since. 

The Belgian Pavilion, with terminals resembling the Mormon 
Tabernacle of recent experience, but relieved centrally by a huge 
helmet-shaped structure, impressed, not only by its uniqueness of 



Th e San Fran cisco Cluh. -ill 



style, but from its size as the largest of the foreign buildings, 
that, in its capacity, gave evidence of the numieipality of its 
contents, and, upon examination, of the high artistic excellence 
of the same. 

THE MEXICAN BUILDING, 

also a square structure, like that of Canada, si)ecializecl by its 
open archway portico, surrounding the front entrance and ap- 
proached by a single flight of stairs— the same being balustraded 
above and backed by a recessed promenade, but separated in front 
from the balcony proper by graceful twin coluains supporting, 
centrally, the continuous battlements, that crown the main cor- 
nice of the building. 

The two-storied lantern tower, at the left corner of the front 
facade, and the tile-covered low pyramidal tower that marks the 
centre of the side facade, unite with the oblong square windows 
of the highly ornamented lintels and latticed basket sills to make 
a lasting impression upon the visitor. The universal good taste 
illustrated in all the exterior of the building manifest the good 
will of our sister Republic, and her appreciation of the oppor- 
tunity afforded hereby to join hands with the fair galaxy of her 
sister States, in offering her complement also to the success of 
this, the greatest demonstration of the kind that the sun has 
ever looked upon. 

THE CHINESE PAVILIONS, 

distinguished by their three-tiered and terminally upturned can- 
opies, the interposed open cornice-work, and the columns sup- 
porting the same, in the foreground of the reservation, next 
claim our attention. Thence, looking beyond, the substantial 
walls of the buildings in the background, with their tile-covered 
roofs and grotesquely-wrought ponderous comics, come out in 
broad contrast, thus constituting the whole an assemblage of 
unique work that only the "heathen Chinee" can originate. The 
rich and multitudinous exhibits of their fancy wares invited a 
more minute examination thaii we personally were able to give, 



412 The PlIgnmiKjc of 



though, no doubt, many others of the Club there found many 
souvenirs that will aid in fixing- indelibly the locality upon their 
memories. 

THE SIAMESE PAVILION, 

an exact reproduction of Ben Chama Temple, located in Bang- 
kok, afforded a most satisfactory illustration of the peculiarities 
of the Siamese architecture — consisting of a series of tent-like 
gables facing the four cardinal points of the compass, and 
uniting in a common centre, nesting, as it were, into each other 
— the combs of the outer gables being the lowest, and the central 
ones the highest — a combination that renders said nesting pos- 
sible, and thus imiting to constitute a type of architecture pe- 
culiar to Siam. 

THE NATIONAL PAVILION OF CEYLON, 

in the fact that it is a British colony, shows the influence of 
western ideas in its hexagonal corner towers and similarly 
shaped hooded roofs, although the sharp triangular-shaped can- 
opied front entrance to the building, with its flaring wings and 
similar connecting verandas, terminating at said corner towers, 
retain somewhat the prevailing oriental type. The entire group 
showed a most pleasing variety. 

THE JAPANESE GOVERNMENT GARDEN, 

enclosing its seven imposing buildings, is also, in every respect, 
an attractive departure from anything stereotyped, that might 
naturally be expected in the demands made for available types 
of architecture. The flowering shrubbery, tiny water courses 
bridged at convenient points, and the huge storks that stand sen- 
tinel here and there, transfer the spectator to other climes and 
associations, that awakened a sustained interest that would not 
cloy upon the taste even of those possessed of a greater leisure 
in exploration than is ours. Hence, the necessity for an abrupt 
departure from this climax of progress attained by these people 
beyond the sea. 

Retracing, now. our steps toward the lands that intervene, 
ere we again enter the European field. 



The San Francisco Club. 413 

THE EAST INDIA PAVILION", 

in its suggestive resemblance to tlie world-renowned Taj Mahal, 
furnishes a most agreeable surprise in its imiqucness of design 
and general appearance, being a reproduction of the tomb of El- 
luad Dowlah, at Agra, India. The minaret-cupaloed hexagonal 
towers, at the corners of the quadrangular building, by its chaste 
whiteness, its ground triple-archway entrances, with their scal- 
loped arch curves that flank the main arched entrance to 'the 
building, being, in turn, surmounted by a similar scalloped bow 
window, also flanked by oriole windows of open panel-work — 
unite all in connection wdth the balustraded cornice, that con- 
nects the two front towers, to bring into the foreground an 
order of architecture that is now a lost art under the waning 
power of the formerly powerful Rajahs, now tributary to the 
British Lion, even though their gilded chains retain some 
semblance of their former sovereignty of the days of the Grand 
Moguls. 

CUBA'S ARTISTIC BUILDING, 

standing next to the reservation of China and Belgium, invites, 
by its broad verandas, in connection with its elaborate one-storied 
front, flanked by corner towers of most dissimilar types, to a more 
than passing notice. Its broad, centrally located stairway, ex- 
tending in breadth for some two-thirds of the length of the first 
uncovered landing, that, in turn, extends along the entire front 
of the building, leading right and left to covered and arched por- 
ticoes by way of the arched bases of the said towers — the one at 
the left of the main entrance to the building terminating above 
the cornice in a massive square double-arch belfry, and the other, 
at the right, terminating above in a helmet-like port-holed crown, 
and buttressed below upon the level of the entrance way by 
quadruple groups of Corinthian columns and elegant architraves, 
that, in their details, are also models of delicacy and perfection of 
finish. 

IN AUSTRIA'S PAVILION, 

c-overing a large area, we have, in the front gable facade its 



414 The Pilgrimage of 



chai'acteristic of niassiveness — the same being guarded, right 
and left, at the angles by square keep-like towers, that thus 
flank the square and also massive main entrance to the building, 
whose posts are colossal pilastered twin coryatides, that, though 
austere in feature, are, nevertheless, exhibits of the coni;:I ■ 
with which they invite the visitor to the wealth of display within. 

THE SWEDISH BUILDING 

is a reproduction of a typical Swedish country home, exhibiting, 
in its upper works, a quaint assemblage of "hipped" roofs, both 
in the central section and wing front extensions, that enclose the 
central hollow square, whose paved ways lead to the main en- 
trance — the whole being surrounded by the prevalent type of 
festooned paling fencing, that conspires to complete the happy 
conception of the design. All the materials used in the con- 
struction were brought from Sweden, ready to be set up upon its 
arrival at the Exposition. 

THE EOMAN PAVILIOX OF ITALY, 

illustrative of the old Eoman architecture adopted by modern 
hands to be shown as an exhibit, discloses an artistic finish that 
goes far to demonstrate how, so long ago, the Eoman became 
a successful rival to previous Grecian pre-eminence and which, 
to-day, makes Eome the Mecca of the artistic world. The con- 
tinuous colonnade, or monastyle, buttressed by ornate piles, whose 
bas-reliefs were the triumphs of the ancient triumphal arches, 
and, surmounted by winged goddesses of victory, unite to 
constitute a becoming threshhold to the noble esplanade and 
guarding side escarpment, that may be allowably affirmed to be 
])rophetic of what is so richly illustrated in the buildings of the 
l)ackground, that betray the poverty of the word painter in his 
despair of adequately portraying. The visiting members of the 
Club may, therefore, better recall the visions of experience than 
the scribe can to embody a hasty examination. Hence, we pass 
from this exhibit to our neighbors of the home-land and briefly 
note the evidences of their acceptance of the invitation to join 
the States of the Northern tiers of the Atlantic domain. 



The San Francisco Club. 415 

THE BRAZILIAN GOVERNMENT BUILDING 

is a befitting counterpart, in its elegance of appearance to the 
fact that the greatest South American Republic is here thus typi- 
fied. A view of the compactness of the design shows such an 
assemblage of quadruple columnar groups, surmounted by such 
perfectly-wrought capitals, ornate entablature and balustraded 
cornice (relieved by posts that are themselves reproductions of 
the building in miniature), that the beholder must pause before 
further exploration of details. The broad-based cone-like dome, 
arching the rotunda, and disclosing its tier of oblong square 
windows, separated by close buttresses and relieved above by two 
tiers of port-hole outlooks, that afford a variety or ornamenta- 
tion in the upper works, and that, in connection with the shal- 
low dome of the apse, supported, in turn, by its graceful col- 
umns, unite in giving to the whole a picture that the printed 
page may recall, but only the original view can adequately sup- 
plement. Content to so refer the case to the more retentive of 
the Club, we pass on to mention, at least, some of Brazil's sister 
States, that are less prominent in importance and area in 
the galaxy of that southern sky. In passing, therefore, the next 
building that attracts attention is the 

PAVILION OF THE ARGENTINE REPUBLIC 

that is a reproduction of a part of the celebrated Pink Palace, 
of Buenos Ayres. Its furnishings and decorations were all 
brought from Argentina, and, hence, for this reason covers a 
most interesting ground, both to the connoisseur and the prac- 
tical inquirer. 

The Gautemala Building supplies a good object lesson in its 
imposing pavilion, illustrative of the progressiveness of this Cen- 
tral American Republic, that, of late, has been showing the en- 
terprise of her people in agricultural pursuits. The specialty 
of her exhibit is that of coffee, that is served to the interested 
visitant. 

The Nicaragua Pavilion is a substantial oblong building, with 
entrance central of the longer side, ornamented by circular pi- 
lastered columns, and flanked by a lofty window upon each 



416 The Pilgrimage of 



side, relieved by a basket pendant window-sill portico. The 
entire ground floor is given up to a varied display of the vege- 
table and mineral resources of the State. Many of these are 
interesting and will, no doubt, give an increased impetus to 
its people, who, in the near future, desire to enjoy greater facili- 
ties of communication with the States than they now enjoy. 



O O O 

1\ M y^ 




The San Francisco Club. 417 



CHAPTER LVI. 

THE STATE BUILDINGS. 

But time flies and we would fain visit the State buildings, 
upon the western confines of the grounds. The variety and 
richness of architectural display there realized in their erec- 
tion are so captivating, that we would loiter awhile in the in- 
spection of each, if it were possible. To individualize each, 
however, would itself require much more time than we have at 
our disposal, and, therefore, we can refer to but a few even 
by name, much less indite at length our impressions of the same. 
It is, therefore, natural that we should first speak of our 
own State buildings, the boasted Keystone. Provided for by an 
appropriation of $300,000, we, of right, expect to find one of 
the most artistic buildings among the entire coterie of States. 
As originally planned, the view of the buildings looked well 
upon paper. In passing through the rooms, however, we confess 
we were much disappointed in our expectations. Not being a 
thoroughly qualified expert, however, upon the relation of al- 
leged cost to that accruing from the finished product, we hesi- 
tate to affirm that the entire appropriated sum was not expended 
in the erection and equipment of the building, as we saw it, and 
yet the results seen did not appeal to us sufficiently to awaken 
a desire to give both an exterior and internal detailed descrip- 
tion of the same. 

The New York State Building Committee received an appro- 
priation for the erection of their building of the large sum of 
$350,000. The magnificence, however, of its appointments, we 
are satisfied, transcended to a much greater degree those of the 
Pennsylvania, than the excess of $50,000 in the appropriation 
would seem to justify. Moreover, that the amount of graft in 
the latter case was less than in the former we would not for a 
moment assert, nor that there was any such in either case would 
we affirm, and yet, that such methods of appropriating the State's 
27 



418 The Filgrimage of 



funds have been iilili/x'd, the history of the late decades abun- 
dantly verifies, and, as suggesting the greater question that if 
the amount of graft in the appropiiation of $45,000 for the 
Cotton Exposition, at New Orleans, was $10,000, what, we may 
ask of the un})rejudiced, would be the proportionate graft upon 
the sum of $;5()0,000? or is it not possible that, owing to the 
facts of current history, a larger amount of graft was reaped, 
than in the case above-mentioned, ov, at least, in one of the 
States under consideration, in which graft has been, as above 
stated, and is at present rampant. 

The appropriation for the State of Missouri was $1,000,000, 
and the appearance of the same justifies the assertion that it 
is by far the most handsome in the Department of States. 

The Louisiana State Building was modeled after the original 
building at Xew Orleans, in which the transfer of the Territory 
of Louisiana to the United States in 1803, that we now com- 
memorate, took place. It is a two-story building, surrounded 
in peristyle by a portico of arched entrances — the window-settings 
of the second story corresponding in style of casement with those 
below. The appropriation for its erection and equipment was 
$145,000. 

The Texas State Building, in commemoration of the tradi- 
tion of its being the "Lone Star State," is represented by a 
palace in the form of a five-pointed star — a huge square tower 
and dome occupying the centre and overarching the rotunda. 

The Xew Jersey State Building is a reproduction of the old 
Ford Tavern, so-called, as General Washington's Headquarters 
at Morristown. The State appropriation Avas $100,000. 

The Connecticut State Building is a reproduction of the Co- 
lonial home of Mrs. Sigourney, the poetess. The appropriation 
of Connecticut was also $100,000. 

The i\rassachusetts State Building is also of the Colonial type, 
and is a reproduction of the Bullfinch front and State Chambers 
of the State House, on Beacon Hill, Boston, as erected more than 
one hundred years ago. The a])]:)roj)riation for the same wa** 
$100,000. 

Rliode Lsland State Building represents, in its wall appear- 



The Sa/n Francisco Club. 419 



ance, an old historic factory of that State. Appropriation, 
$35,000. 

The very handsome Ohio State Buikling, noted for its ter- 
minal wing and central portions in the sextostyle, and its curved 
mansard roofs, extending the entire length of the huilding, is well 
worthy of notice. Appropriation, $100,000. 

The Iowa State Building is a reproduction of her late beautiful 
State Capitol, that was recently burned. Appropriation, $25,000. 

The New Kentucky Home is a very handsome three-story 
building, furnished with terminal porticoes of the height of 
two stories, and the side central ones of one story, and all Ionic 
pillared in sextostyle. State appropriation, $175,000. 

The Mississippi State Building is a reproduction of the home 
of Jefferson Davis, in which he wrote "The Rise and Fall of 
the Confederacy." It is a one-storied square house, covered 
with a shallow pyramidal roof, supported at its eaves by square 
columns, constituting a portico in peristyle. State appropria- 
tion, $75,000. 

The Tennessee State Building is a reproduction of the "Her- 
mitage," the old two-storied home of President Andrew Jack- 
son, near jSTashville. Lofty columns support, at the front gable 
end, a heavy entablature, and constitute an ample portico in 
sexto style. 

The California Building, with its quaint two-storied duplicate 
belfries, is a reproduction of La Rabida Mission, at Santa Bar- 
bara, of which style of architecture we have before had occasion 
to speak in connection with our visit to the famous seaside resort. 
It was a happy thought that suggested this so characteristic a 
model of that section. Appropriation, $300,000. 

The Georgia Building, "Sutherland" by name, is a repro- 
duction of the famous home of General John B. Gordon, at 
Kirkwood, a suburb of Atlanta. It is built very much after the 
style of the "Hermitage," the Tennessee State Building. The 
State appropriation, $50,000. 

The Virginia Building, ^lonticello, the home of Jefferson, near 
Charlotteville, the seat of the State University, under whose ad- 
ministration the Louisiana Purchase was made, and, therefore, a 



480 The Pilgrimage of 



most appropriate model for a State building. It is an oblong, 
low building, of one story, with main entrance central of the 
longer side, and entered from the regular gabled portico in quarto 
style. The State appropriation, $100,000. 

The Vermont and New Hampshire State Buildings resemble 
each other, as oblong, weather-boarded buildings — the former a 
reproduction of the old Constitution House, and the latter of the 
residence of Daniel Webster, at Marshfield. 

Thus, while designating here and there certain samples of 
l)uildings, it is not that the balance are not worthy of mention. 

Of the remainder, some twenty-five or more of additional 
States and Territories, are all most creditable specimens of in- 
terest, and the great regret is that the great majority, at least, 
of them, could not have been visited by all the members of 
the Club, for the reason, among others, that these buildings 
may never again be re-erected, as permanent structures, and 
thereby be perpetuated as masterpieces in the departments to 
w^iich they belong. 

We may not, however, at this juncture, longer delay our move- 
ments to indulge in vain regrets, but must forthwith enter upon 
other lines of exploration elsewhere. 

THE NIGHT EXHIBIT. 

The shades of night now begin to fall upon the Exposition 
City; the electric display comes on apace, and while many of 
the designs of illumination are those of San Francisco, they 
are here many times duplicated and intensified — those of the 
Grand Basin, Festival Hall and the environs are naturally 
unique, because of the originality of the architectural piles, that 
give a greater variety in conformity to the details of the de- 
signs of the latter's construction. The colored waters of the 
cascades, and their reflected sheen upon the surfaces of the 
Grand Basin and the Lagoons disturbed by the fire-fly lamps 
of the gondolas and launches, that flit to and fro thereupon, 
transform the matter-of-fact palaces, moles and lakes of the day, 
under the weird illumination so universal, into the fairy crea- 
tions of another clime, inhabited by a like race of people, dressed 



The San Francisco Cluh. 431 



in corresponding resplendent hues. And, now that we are a 
part of them, we are led to realize that transformation is but 
for an hour, when the realism of the actual will again displace 
the role of the present — our past experience having substan- 
tiated the fact that the former, in its broad generalization, may 
also be the antecedent to a lasting conception of the ornate and 
the beautiful of its own, and, therefore, we may not despair, since 
each has its essential part in the warp and woof of life. 

THE PIKE. 

Thus noting the specialties of the nearer and more remote 
points, as we move along with the gaping crowd, we at length 
find ourselves within the precincts of the Pike, free to gaze at 
will upon its novelties, as illusionized by the electric glare, and 
thus brought into marked contrast with what the day had re- 
vealed of its cosmopolitan specialties. While many of our 
Ladies and their escorts dropped in here and there to indulge 
in the festive wonders advertised as facts of realization, within 
the labyrinthian recesses of the respective places of exhibit that 
bordered the way, and subsequently were led to dilate upon their 
bewildering experiences, yet, to the most of them, their review, 
after their exit therefrom, appeared more like the phantasma- 
goria of a fitful dream, rather than a rational succession of 
realities. But, as in every other relation of multitudinous ob- 
jects of observation, so also in those of the Pike, the eyes, at 
length, grow weary, and the powers of locomotion less responsive 
to the will, and, therefore, in groups and smaller squads we pass, 
perforce, out of the Exposition gates, and seek the unexplored 
realities of Pastime Park. What the experiences of the quest 
entailed, has been so well reviewed by Sir Macklin, that the 
writer will not attempt their rehearsal, but begs leave to refer 
those of defective memory to his graphic pages. After sundry 
tribulations, and apparently aimless wanderings, however, all of 
the Knights and their Companions found their quarters, and 
glad oblivion, in a brief space of time, settled down u]ion the 
weary pedestrians in the glad embrace of sleep. 



422 The Pilgrimage of 



CHAPTER LVII. 

THE SECOND DAY. 

The morning of the 17th came too early for many, that would 
fain linger longer in their berths, even though many unexplored 
portions of the Exposition must be visited ere nightfall of the 
day closed its portals upon what would never again be open to 
the inspection of the majority of the Club. 

The writer, however, must needs take an early start to the 
city to complete his commission in connection with the draft of 
resolutions already reverted to as having been, as he was led 
to think, favorably placed in the hands of the printer. 

Eeturning at noon, as per arrangement, in time to accompany 
his companion, to share with her in the delectations of Festival 
Hall, we found ourselves on time to pass within its magnificent 
dome, and being well seated to participate in the luxuries of the 
hour. 

The Great Organ is before us. The matchless Guilmant is 
seated before the manuel. The colossal instrument peals forth 
its exquisite numbers, as the great artist sweeps over the key- 
board. The program, in its names of illustrious composers, has 
found a worthy interpreter, as he calls forth the "soft dying 
resonance of single cords,"" or tosses upon the "impulsive ether," 

"The diamond dust of trill, and infinitesimal diminution of 
fairy-like pianissimo ;" 

or, again drops in louder notes the 

"More massive pearl drops of cadenza," 
or. in turn, in the 

"Echoes of the twilight groves, reproduces 
The warbles of the twilight birds," 



The San Francisco Club. 433 



as they carol their responsive lays in sweetest unison. • Thus, we 
revel in the "fragrant deluges" of sweet sounds that 

"Flood our spirits as with an angel's breath," 

until the program is ended, when we are permitted to descend 
from these empyrean cadences to participate once more in feasts 
of vision that still have their carnivals of sense awaiting the 
"pausing eye." 

And, now yielding to the sequel of the fruition of expecta- 
tions realized, we are content to depart hence, as we lose our- 
selves for the moment in the thronging multitude that, with us, 
have enjoyed the magic spell of this unrivalled "concord of sweet 
sounds." 

Before descending, however, from the plateau to the plane of 
the buildings at the lower level, where we propose to spend the 
balance of the day, we yield for a short while to a reluctance to 
leave this resplendent spot, at least until we again have enjoyed 
another "long lingering look behind," at the scene spread out 
before us, well aware that we shall never again see its duplicate 
creation among the works of men. To grasp the scene consecu- 
tively, after the somewhat similar method of our first visit to 
the spot, we naturally direct our gaze, at first, to the nearest 
objects, that border our standpoint at our right and left, con- 
sisting of the terraced parterres, the rare brilliancy of whose 
myriad flowers show a vigor of shades and a perennial richness 
of color in their successive allotments in a like exquisite setting, 
as our eyes follow in the natural descent to the limits of the 
beds bordering the lines of the cascades, to merge their glories 
with the distinctive features of the latter, as before described. 
Then, lifting our eyes to a higher range, we note the associate 
effects of the foreground, as illustrated in the poems of art, 
that stand out in conspicuous attitude and co-operate to material- 
ize the outlook into a complete whole, and thus realize the con- 
summation of the picture enacted before us, in a vision of 
natural and architectural beauty, that successfully transcends the 
most exquisite creation heretofore ever conceived by the brain 
and executed by the hand of man. We admit that the climax 



424 The Pilgnmage of 



of the sublime in Nature's mountain royalty marks the throne 
of Colorado in her lofty disdain of the puny efforts of human 
agency to contribute an increment to the colossal whole of her 
exhibit; so here, upon the other hand, the climax of man's 
creative genius comes to the front, in no disparaging form, as 
a factor in successfully modifying the crude in Nature, and 
thereby transforming its contributions into a "thing of beauty 
and a joy forever," at least, so far as the liistory of the period 
may be transcribed upon the annals of time for the future 
education of the race. The inestimable value of the oppor- 
tunity, as emphasized by the lofty dome and ornate finish of the 
Hall at our rear, flanked, as it is, by its noble supporting pa- 
vilions, the high artistic merit embodied in the plastic group — 
"The Triumph of Apollo — by Philip ^Martiny, that crowns the 
fountain at our right, and the innumerable other accessories that 
a most fertile taste has put under contribution to enhance the 
scene — these all illuminated l)y the gorgeous sunlight, conspire 
to transfigure the whole, and thus unite to impress the matchless 
scene upon mind and heart, while, at the same time, they elevate 
our ideal of the artistic capabilities of man, and thereby, perforce, 
remind us of his relation as a being, nothing less in this regard 
(as in others also involved in the Creative fiat), than the finite 
subject of a progression toward the Infinite Mind, otherwise 
unapproachable. All these flow with our thoughts in our closing 
reflections — a counterpart, no doubt, to those indulged in by 
many of the members of the Club, as they, too, turned away and 
left the hallowed spot behind them, with its never-to-be-forgotten 
associations. 

Time and space will not admit of a detailed statement of the 
experiences common to all of us during the balance of the day, 
or of our last stroll over the unspeakable Pike, ere we close 
the same with our last trip by trolley to the city and the Union 
Station. 

Once more within our commodious (juarters of the Special, and 
securely domiciled within sleep's embrace, we are oblivious of our 
rapid passage by way of the Vandalia Line over the plains of 
Illinois, and also unburdened by any special reason to antici- 
pate an early rising upon the following morning. 



The San Francisco Club. 425 



THE LAST STAGE. 

The dawn of the 18th and its subsequent hours, found us 
equally oblivious to our surroundings, that, in reality, seemed 
to be commonplace to all of us, living, as we had been, for a 
month of days amid scenes of the most sublime in Nature, and in 
touch with localities where a score of years earlier only the coyote 
and the prairie dog disported at will. 

The morning hours having passed, and the different courses of 
breakfast having l)een duly disposed of, the Committee on Reso- 
lutions were summoned for the last time to meet the Assembled 
Club, to report the result of their labors, and to perform their 
last duty of presenting their work to those by whom they had 
been appointed. 

The resolutions having been neatly mounted at St. Louis, as 
before stated, the same were duly handed over by the Secretary 
of the Committee aforesaid, to the Chairman of the same, who, 
in turn, upon motion, appointed Sir Knight W. H. Denlinger 
to make the presentation address, and thereafter hand over to 
each member of the Committee of Arrangements a copy thereof. 
The presentation was made in a humorous and appropriate 
speech by the said Sir Knight, though at first concealing the pur- 
port of the resolutions by facetiously leading the Committee of 
Arrangements to infer that they were about to be adversely 
criticised for maladministration in office, and thus the speaker 
aroused the uninitiated to a state of expectancy as to what was 
to be the sequel of the severe ordeal. Having, at length, reached 
his climax, the speaker read the resolutions, and commenting, 
meanwhile, upon the declarations of the same in the ten»r 
thereof, it then became apparent what his intention had been 
in speaking at first in a spirit so foreign to the real import of 
the resolutions. Paraphrasing, therefore, the thoughts expressed, 
he emphasized the explicit obligations, as formulated by the 
wish of the entire Club, to the membership of the said Com- 
mittee of Arrangements, both in their individual and collective 
capacity, and in so doing formally endorsed the unanimity of the 
Committee on Resolutions in thus expressing themselves in be- 
half of the entire membership of the Club. 



426 The Pilgrimage of 



It was evident, from the sequel, that the members of the Com- 
mittee of Arrangements were unprepared for such an expression 
of esteem, and while each, in turn, expressed their appreciation 
of the compliment thus bestowed, they could, with difficulty, re- 
strain their feelings in realizing that one and all of their fraters 
and their companions, lioth those with whom they had previously 
had no acquaintance, as well as those of long friendship, tried 
and true, had equally uttered such unqualified commendation, as 
they were thus honored in being made the recipients of. 

The occasion was one most touching in these features, and 
will, no doubt, be long cherished by all the participants, as shown 
by the informality with which all expressed themselves, and the 
kindliness of feeling manifested upon the occasion by a spontane- 
ous cordiality of sympathy that cannot be successfully assumed, 
if unfelt, by the subjects of the same. 

'Die formalities of the occasion having thus been duly observed, 
the conversation among the members of the Club and those di- 
rectly participating became general, and it was a matter of uni- 
\'ersal comment — how heartily all endorsed the sentiments ex- 
pressed in the resolutions, and their pleasure that their desires 
had thus been so fully set forth. The day, moreover, being the 
Sab))ath, there seemed also to be a fitness in the entire order of 
proteedings — an atomsphere of kindliness prevailing seemingly 
among all, as 'if they were more than ever impressed by the 
thought that, since we are the children of one Common Father, 
so, naturally, as well as by association, we were all brethren, 
seeking, through the bonds of the tie that binds us fraternally, 
to practice those virtues that are the characteristic of true 
Knighthood, which careth for the orphaned and distressed, and 
is swift to antagonize the oppressor of such helpless ones. 



But now the Pilgrimage is ended. The last farewells have 
l)een spoken. The Sir Knights and their Ladies have departed 
to tlieir respective homes. Nevertheless, the very term, "Pil- 
grimage," is suggestive, not only to the craft, but also to all, who 
recognize their novitiate upon this side of the vail to the ulti- 



The San Francisco Club. 427 



mate rights and privileges of the Holy of Holies, in the Great 
Beyond. 

Therefore, the suggested thought, that he most auspiciously 
enters thereinto, who most diligently meets his obligation to his 
confrerees upon this stage of action. Au revoir! was, there- 
fore, a most befitting salutation at our parting, when the bonds 
of our temporary association were thus by the course of events 
duly severed. Such closing reflection was the realization to 
which, no doubt, the members of the Club all aspired in so 
bidding adieu. 

Therefore, we again repeat, .4?/ Revoir!— as the parting saluta- 
tion, also, of the 

Scribe, 
A. H. E. 




d/ \i/ W 
O O O 



^PR 27 190b 



